2013 Escalade noise: AC compressor or engine...?
- Thread starter skpyle
- Start date
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Sure enough!View attachment 468207
Found it. #5 cylinder intake non-AFM lifter roller is fragged.
I have not gotten a look at the cam lobe yet, but I am assuming it is ruined.
Will post full update later.
Full DOD delete is now beginning.
I'll bet the cam is damaged also. Could've been a bit of debris squeezed between the cam and roller that started the spalling, but that looks like bad metallurgy to me.
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skpyle
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Intake manifold and VLOM came off with no problem, since I did it back in late 2023.
Next I stripped the accessories and brackets from the front of the engine. I completely removed the P/S pump and set it aside, hoses still connected, so I could completely remove the large aluminum mounting bracket.
I removed the water pump with all the hoses still connected. They are only 2 years old, no need to disturb any connections if not necessary.
Water pump octopus. It is wet because I rinsed it off/sprayed it out with the garden hose.
Next big hurdle was removing the exhaust manifolds. Broken bolts are well documented here on TYF. I found the passenger's side front was broken off, the rest still there. I sprayed all the bolts with AeroKroil and let sit for a couple of days. Then, I tried one of my Secret Weapons... I have a set of Mountain brand extra long ratcheting wrenches. They have broken loose a surprising number of bolts in my gearhead career. And I got lucky. All 11 existing bolts broke loose. I then was able to remove them with a combination of ratcheting wrenches, ratchets, and battery ratchet.
And then learned an important lesson. No matter how you try, angle the manifold, or curse, the driver's side exhaust manifold will not come out without disconnecting the pinch coupler from the steering rack and moving the steering rack out of the way. Good to know.
I considered leaving the broken stub of the passenger's side front bolt for my machinist to deal with, but then got brave. Probably foolishly so. My large camlock stud extractor was too big to get a grip on the 8mm bolt. There was just enough threaded bolt left to jam 2 hex nuts together on it. I was then able to unscrew the broken bolt.
Result!
Both exhaust manifolds look good, no cracks. Forgot to mention, I removed all the tiny heat shield bolts without breaking any.
Broken stub of passenger's side front exhaust manifold bolt. Rust on the end suggests it has been broken for awhile. I never noticed. I don't 'think' the gasket was leaking, as I didn't see any soot.
Successfully removed broken bolt.
Ended the night with this:
Next I stripped the accessories and brackets from the front of the engine. I completely removed the P/S pump and set it aside, hoses still connected, so I could completely remove the large aluminum mounting bracket.
I removed the water pump with all the hoses still connected. They are only 2 years old, no need to disturb any connections if not necessary.
Water pump octopus. It is wet because I rinsed it off/sprayed it out with the garden hose.
Next big hurdle was removing the exhaust manifolds. Broken bolts are well documented here on TYF. I found the passenger's side front was broken off, the rest still there. I sprayed all the bolts with AeroKroil and let sit for a couple of days. Then, I tried one of my Secret Weapons... I have a set of Mountain brand extra long ratcheting wrenches. They have broken loose a surprising number of bolts in my gearhead career. And I got lucky. All 11 existing bolts broke loose. I then was able to remove them with a combination of ratcheting wrenches, ratchets, and battery ratchet.
And then learned an important lesson. No matter how you try, angle the manifold, or curse, the driver's side exhaust manifold will not come out without disconnecting the pinch coupler from the steering rack and moving the steering rack out of the way. Good to know.
I considered leaving the broken stub of the passenger's side front bolt for my machinist to deal with, but then got brave. Probably foolishly so. My large camlock stud extractor was too big to get a grip on the 8mm bolt. There was just enough threaded bolt left to jam 2 hex nuts together on it. I was then able to unscrew the broken bolt.
Result!
Both exhaust manifolds look good, no cracks. Forgot to mention, I removed all the tiny heat shield bolts without breaking any.
Broken stub of passenger's side front exhaust manifold bolt. Rust on the end suggests it has been broken for awhile. I never noticed. I don't 'think' the gasket was leaking, as I didn't see any soot.
Successfully removed broken bolt.
Ended the night with this:
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skpyle
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Agreed.
Is what it is, though.
