2013 Chevy Tahoe LTZ

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Dustin Jackson

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@13_Metallic There are things you can buy to plug into the auto ride connector to prevent it from popping a light.

Here is one I found, do your research and make sure it’s going to do what you want I have never worked on a auto ride system personally.

GM MagneRide Shock & Ride Height Bypass Kit Compatible with 2013-2020 Cadillac, Chevrolet & GMC https://a.co/d/3cBnQh3
 

Dustin Jackson

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The bright side is that you have a lot of things making it ride poorly, once you fix those it will ride much better.
 
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13_Metallic

13_Metallic

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Sounds like the lift is stretched out so your uca may be bottoming out? Are the bump stops cut out already?
I had the same issue I put bilsteins on my Silverado and they ride good
I did icon coil overs on my Tahoe and used spacers to stretch the 6” lift to a 8” and between the coil overs and the uniball upper control arms the ride and handling changed dramatically it was night and day I went from hitting rail road tracks at 45 with both hands on the wheel to jumping them at 75-80 driving with my knee cap and sipping on my coffee
I’ve always hated the auto ride shocks they suck in my opinion trash that shit and get you some good shocks on that rig! And don’t spend money on a new lift kit it’s not the lift making it ride bad it’s the shocks and stretched suspension.
I have a rc lift on the Silverado and a fabtech on the Tahoe both are about the same minus the fabtech has slightly better lower control arm angles
So i had bought rough country UCA’s but yeah they still look bottomed out so should i just order different ones and see if that levels it back out? As far as the UCA’s and i think im gonna go coilovers in the front and do the bilstiens in the rear and the 81609 Coil springs as well as the 3-4inch JK Sway Bar end links. I will keep you guys posted
 
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13_Metallic

13_Metallic

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I second this though^^^ if your on a budget some bilsteins and jeep rear sway bar links would make a considerable difference keep us posted as what you decide to do and how it worked out for you if it resolved your issue or not
I appreciate the help man.
 

Dustin Jackson

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I don’t know if the auto ride struts use a unique springs, if so you’ll need new front springs to throw on the bilsteins because they don’t come with springs
 

Trey Hardy

8” fabtech icon coilovers uniballs 24x14on35/15.50
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So i had bought rough country UCA’s but yeah they still look bottomed out so should i just order different ones and see if that levels it back out? As far as the UCA’s and i think im gonna go coilovers in the front and do the bilstiens in the rear and the 81609 Coil springs as well as the 3-4inch JK Sway Bar end links. I will keep you guys posted
I trashed my rc uca I couldn’t get a proper alignment with them and they would bottom out I’ve had great luck with the fabtech uniballs I got them on both my Silverado and Tahoe and between my Tahoe and my buddy’s Silverado we put ALOT of miles on them and there holding up great!
C6F85D73-B1EF-4B8A-8981-3F69CEAEDE6F.png
Note you need to get a reaming tool for your drill to ream the spindles for the uniballs. I was in a pinch and out in the sticks when I did mine I did it very carefully with a drill bit wallowing it out lil by lil but a actual reamer would be ideal and they aren’t very expensive
Just swapping from the rc uca to the uniballs alone was a night and day difference in handling and the ride
Before it would feel almost like the suspension would bottom out and “dance” left to right over train tracks now it’s planted and very controlled I usually don’t drive my Tahoe under 70mph 90% of the time since I use it to travel for work
560F05CF-B956-418E-A2DD-FC8F8F1F2E6D.pngThese are the coil overs I used but I actually used a set off a gmc at4 since there 2” higher from the factory the bottom eyelets were slightly longer 3.5” ended up being 5.5-6” so I added a upper leveling kit to get it up 8”or so of lift
I like my icons if I had to buy brand new ones though I would’ve went with the king coilovers. I’ve had friends run foxs also with good luck. from my research the foxs and kings are progressive? So they will ride a bit softer and have more of a plush ride where my icons are digressive they are kind of stiff but imo they handle awesome I would rather have the stiffer ride for better Handling. Whenever I send mine off to be rebuild I do plan to add a resi with the DSC adjuster to fine tune the ride a lil better but for now I’m more then happy with them! I lucked out and pretty much got my coil overs control arms and lift kit for FREE so you know… it’s hard to beat free stuff!
 
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Trey Hardy

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I appreciate the help man.
Side note does your lift kit have the rear trailing arm drop brackets or panhard bar lift bracket? I had to buy them separately I still haven’t done the panhard bar bracket but I did replace it with a sphoon panhard bar that’s adjustable to center my rear end. It was off by almost 2”
The trailing arms were maxed out also but after doing the drop brackets, adjustable panhard bar, and Jeep jk sway bar links it took the play/vibration out of my rear end. I still haven’t got new shocks for the rear I just threw the fabtech ones in the back and let er wobble! Rides good for what it is
 
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13_Metallic

13_Metallic

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Side note does your lift kit have the rear trailing arm drop brackets or panhard bar lift bracket? I had to buy them separately I still haven’t done the panhard bar bracket but I did replace it with a sphoon panhard bar that’s adjustable to center my rear end. It was off by almost 2”
The trailing arms were maxed out also but after doing the drop brackets, adjustable panhard bar, and Jeep jk sway bar links it took the play/vibration out of my rear end. I still haven’t got new shocks for the rear I just threw the fabtech ones in the back and let er wobble! Rides good for what it is
I dont think so man but yeah i have been looking at that Spoohn Adjustable Pan Hard bar and that’s probably on the list
 

Trey Hardy

8” fabtech icon coilovers uniballs 24x14on35/15.50
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90122A83-7429-44D0-958A-FBEF94E05213.jpegE6F9DDC1-9C18-4AB4-BD76-07EFC1DFEB85.jpeg
If you’re not running over a 5-7.5” lift you should be fine without the drop brackets but the panhard bar would be a definite.
Here’s some pics of mine
Start with the east stuff
(shocks coil overs sway bar links)
And go from there
Also I swear by the kryptonite suspension if you ever go to replace the hubs lower ball joints tie rods etc
The dirt king fabrication locking alignment cams are nice to have with the uniballs also after cutting the bump stops so you don’t have to worry about knocking your alignment out of wack over a bad bump.
If you need any help or got any questions just give me a shout I’ll do my best to help you out
 

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