2012 Denali Front & Rear Suspension

[Pointer 21]

I just had the bulk of the front end of my '09 rebuilt using a collection of Delco, Moog, Napa, and Timken parts. I've been sitting on these parts for a while trying to find time to do it, and ultimately, I just paid a shop to get it done. I got myself bent over a barrel to the tune of $1400 for the job. The biggest issue with doing it myself (aside from time) was that I live 30 miles from the nearest alignment shop, and I didn't want to drive that far on a maybe close eyeball alignment in my driveway.

I sourced the parts from Amazon, Napa, and RockAuto. I used Moog for the control arms because I wanted to be able to grease the joints. I used Timken hub assemblies because I've had good luck with them. Everything else I based on reviews.

The guy I use as my mechanic for the things for which I don't have the tools suggested I should have bought a new rack and pinion unit with the inner tie rods/bellows already installed. I didn't think about that, and with 200k miles, it was a good suggestion.

@Millennium Falcon _Is there a rack and pinion unit with inner tie rods/bellows already installed (ie a kit) ???

 

[Doubeleive]

Considering I have OEM 22 inch rims that were an upgrade item when I built the vehicle, should I upgrade any parts to compensate for the rims?

nothing would be any different unless you are running oversize tires then you could just use a leveling kit

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I hear you - There are mixed reviews/feeling on assembled parts. I could've done this a longgg time ago and been out pain free.

I'll let the gurus advise to this point; however, with this board as a resource it's more assuring. I owe @swathdiver and a few others gift cards and personal handshake for the advice through these projects where these mechanics are trying to get over on you (happens way too much).

You do owe @swathdiver something. This parts search exercise that he performed for you is no small task. He's been a tremendous resource to me with my 2007 Yukon XL Denali.

I recently did a complete suspension rebuild on my truck, and I used all GM/AcDelco parts, except for the front springs which are Moog (GM no longer manufactures the front springs for my truck), and the compressor, which is Dorman.

I replaced the upper and lower control arms in the front, but did not change the trailing arms in the back. I replaced all components, as I did not know the previous owner's driving habits, and I was fortunate to have the needed cash available. However, as @Doubeleive suggested you can limit the number of parts replaced, to be in balance with your own budget to complete the project.

I had a shop do the front with my purchased parts, as I don't have a large capacity spring compressor nor an alignment machine. I did the rear components myself.

I purchased all of my parts from Rock Auto, GMPartsDirect, and GMPartsGiant. My total freight costs were approximately 10% of the total parts costs.

If you have any questions regarding your project, let me know.

 

[Pointer 21]

nothing would be any different unless you are running oversize tires then you could just use a leveling kit

I'm currently on 285-45-22 and would like to level; however, I don't want to sacrifice ride too much. Considering my rims are I believe 22 X 9, I'm not sure what direction I'll go. I don't think 33's or 305's would look good was just a level. Not sure what's in between that?!

 

[Pointer 21]

nothing would be any different unless you are running oversize tires then you could just use a leveling kit

You do owe @swathdiver something. This parts search exercise that he performed for you is no small task. He's been a tremendous resource to me with my 2007 Yukon XL Denali.

I recently did a complete suspension rebuild on my truck, and I used all GM/AcDelco parts, except for the front springs which are Moog (GM no longer manufactures the front springs for my truck), and the compressor, which is Dorman.

I replaced the upper and lower control arms in the front, but did not change the trailing arms in the back. I replaced all components, as I did not know the previous owner's driving habits, and I was fortunate to have the needed cash available. However, as @Doubeleive suggested you can limit the number of parts replaced, to be in balance with your own budget to complete the project.

I had a shop do the front with my purchased parts, as I don't have a large capacity spring compressor nor an alignment machine. I did the rear components myself.

I purchased all of my parts from Rock Auto, GMPartsDirect, and GMPartsGiant. My total freight costs were approximately 10% of the total parts costs.

If you have any questions regarding your project, let me know.

@swathdiver @Joseph Garcia @Doubeleive - YES I OWE MR. SWATHDIVER A COLD BEER AND I'M STILL RACKING MY HEAD.

Check out the the attached:

1.) Parts list from RockAuto (Took a Stab at it with some hiccups I'm sure)

2.) Spoke with the dealer this AM - "STEALERSHIP" with a HIGH QUOTE that I narrowed down to the Necessities hoping I can salvage some parts.


Any input from you gents is much appreciated - I'm ready to pull the trigger but damn sure got to get it right!!

 

[Doubeleive]

I'm currently on 285-45-22 and would like to level; however, I don't want to sacrifice ride too much. Considering my rims are I believe 22 X 9, I'm not sure what direction I'll go. I don't think 33's or 305's would look good was just a level. Not sure what's in between that?!

I don't know diddly about tires but I have ran 305's on my 1500 pickups and only had minor rubbing at full lock I'm fairly certain the clearance is not much different on the SUV's

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I run 305/50x 20 tires on my truck with no rubbing and a stock ride height. I believe that you could run 305/45x22 tires with no rubbing, as well.

Also, don't buy parts from the dealer at dealer's prices. The previously mentioned web vendors listed above will have much lower prices (approx. 30% savings) for the exact same part.

Also, these replacements do not have to be performed at a dealer, and you will save additional money, if you have have any of the work done at a reputable auto mechanic shop.

 

[Pointer 21]

I run 305/50x 20 tires on my truck with no rubbing and a stock ride height. I believe that you could run 305/45x22 tires with no rubbing, as well.

Also, don't buy parts from the dealer at dealer's prices. The previously mentioned web vendors listed above will have much lower prices (approx. 30% savings) for the exact same part.

Also, these replacements do not have to be performed at a dealer, and you will save additional money, if you have have any of the work done at a reputable auto mechanic shop.

This is what I would purchase as opposed to the comprehensive list. Anything I should add? For not too much more I can get every part that @swathdiver referenced....

 

[Millennium Falcon]

I'll let the gurus advise to this point; however, with this board as a resource it's more assuring. I owe @swathdiver and a few others gift cards and personal handshake for the advice through these projects where these mechanics are trying to get over on you (happens way too much).

Apologies to anyone who may have been offended by my post. It absolutely was not my intention to diminish anything others have posted here, especially swathdiver and others. They have provided me with invaluable info whenever I've had questions about my vehicle, and they are important resources on this site.

 

[Pointer 21]

Apologies to anyone who may have been offended by my post. It absolutely was not my intention to diminish anything others have posted here, especially swathdiver and others. They have provided me with invaluable info whenever I've had questions about my vehicle, and they are important resources on this site.

No offense on this side and I may have posed the question wrong.....I'm going cross eyed with the cross referencing of the parts. It's all opinions on what is needed and where you can save a buck. I've learned so much here and am saving a TON of money that I'm glad I had yall's help with.........The dang dealership has been misquoting me with wrong parts. Can't say thank you guys enough!!


@Millennium Falcon - Is there a rack and pinion kit available? You mentioned the mechanic bringing it up on your build (I believe)?

 

[swathdiver]

@swathdiver @Joseph Garcia @Doubeleive - YES I OWE MR. SWATHDIVER A COLD BEER AND I'M STILL RACKING MY HEAD.

Check out the the attached:

1.) Parts list from RockAuto (Took a Stab at it with some hiccups I'm sure)

2.) Spoke with the dealer this AM - "STEALERSHIP" with a HIGH QUOTE that I narrowed down to the Necessities hoping I can salvage some parts.


Any input from you gents is much appreciated - I'm ready to pull the trigger but damn sure got to get it right!!

Ok, all the parts/part numbers look right to me. I don't see the jounce bumpers listed, you need them too, especially up front. Mine were wore out and falling apart. You are lucky to be able to get all the parts from one vendor!

My coil springs damaged the insulators over the years and re-using them would probably have left me looking for squeaks. They were wore through in some places. The cone shaped one that goes in the strut assembly was almost gone, it was falling apart.

I could have re-used my alignment cams but used the new ones. We did not need to use the alignment guide pins or the lower control arm bolts.

My truck looked like it was sagging up front and was sagging while towing. The new front coils picked up the front end only about 5/16 of an inch and a little more in the rear but the back doesn't sag while towing now.

Get a 36mm crows foot wrench to do the inner tie rod. We used a 1/2 drive type and a BIG adjustable pliers that opened up to 40 mm. Problem with the latter was that it only worked on one side as the other side it was clocked differently. The crow's foot ought to be small enough no matter the position.

I bought a nice set of Knipex pliers (1099i220) to set those clamps on the boots. The boots also come with clamps. Better than tie straps which can leak. The OE boots are also noticeably better in quality over the ACDelco, I bought them both just to see.

How are you going to assemble the front struts? I was going to purchase the KTool 70372 but read it might be too small and was looking to save a few dollars as prices were rising on this project daily! Instead, I purchased the OEM Tools 27036 and it too was too small for our coils. I had to grind down the chrome pins about 1/2 way to get the springs secured in place. Man that thing scares me! Still does seeing it get all twisted and bent, just waiting for it to blow up in my face! It never did but don't think I'll use it ever again. Next time I'll buy the OTC Clamshell type, like the KTool.

On my build page called "Useless Information" you'll find a write up about doing all this work and the tools and torque specs. They all won't be the same for yours, especially the strut nut but you can use it as a guide to double check yours.

FYI: That lower control arm part number 45D2471/19313224 and 45D2472/19313221 are ACDelco Professional parts, the exact same part as Moog CK620956 and CK620955.

We replaced the panhard rod, aka track bar, because it was rusty and the bushings were beginning to crack. We'll eventually replace the other 4 control arms when I swap out differentials. Last time I looked, the bushings were fine.

The two mounts that hold my front differential will need replacing soon. We took out the front differential to replace the engine oil cooler and transmission oil cooler lines and discovered that. Those will get replaced when we re-gear unless it becomes necessary sooner.

After all this done and it comes to the alignment, I suggest not settling for just getting the settings in the green. I demanded specific numbers and after talking with the technician and coming to an agreement, got a great alignment. This was entrusted to my local GM dealership.

Our alignment settings are tire specific. I do not assume the alignment guys know this or bother to look it up.

 

[Pointer 21]

@swathdiver - You're the man and very thorough (I'm this way to a fault). I'm having a mechanic install everything and here's what I purchased so far:
Mainly Rock Auto and the other is GM PARTS GIANT: I'm not sure I bought all the hardware but I'm sure it's the least of my worries. The camber kit and OEM rear compressor were debatable over an aftermarket but went OEM. Please advise on anything as I can modify the order: Also, I found some old pics....it's a little rusty under there.

Basically I only purchased the shocks in the rear and the compressor.

The front I went all in as proposed. Note: right now it's EXTREMELY noisy under there and as you can see in the pics rusty.

I have other issues to address, so saving money should be of concern but by no means will I want to sacrifice quality.

Advise away!!!!

 

[Geotrash]

@swathdiver - You're the man and very thorough (I'm this way to a fault). I'm having a mechanic install everything and here's what I purchased so far:
Mainly Rock Auto and the other is GM PARTS GIANT: I'm not sure I bought all the hardware but I'm sure it's the least of my worries. The camber kit and OEM rear compressor were debatable over an aftermarket but went OEM. Please advise on anything as I can modify the order: Also, I found some old pics....it's a little rusty under there...
View attachment 369648

View attachment 369649

I have the Dorman compressor in my 2007 and it's been great. Way cheaper too.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I have the Dorman compressor in my 2007 and it's been great. Way cheaper too.

I put the Dorman compressor on, as well. If I had to do it over again, I would go with OEM even at the higher price, just because it gives much more diagnostic information on my Tech 2, than the Dorman compressor.

 

[swathdiver]

@swathdiver - You're the man and very thorough (I'm this way to a fault). I'm having a mechanic install everything and here's what I purchased so far:
Mainly Rock Auto and the other is GM PARTS GIANT: I'm not sure I bought all the hardware but I'm sure it's the least of my worries. The camber kit and OEM rear compressor were debatable over an aftermarket but went OEM. Please advise on anything as I can modify the order: Also, I found some old pics....it's a little rusty under there.

Basically I only purchased the shocks in the rear and the compressor.

The front I went all in as proposed. Note: right now it's EXTREMELY noisy under there and as you can see in the pics rusty.

I have other issues to address, so saving money should be of concern but by no means will I want to sacrifice quality.

Advise away!!!!

View attachment 369648

View attachment 369649

Looks better than mine underneath!

Replace the rear bump stops too, your back ones are falling apart too.

I neglected to mention as I didn't do it and forget, that we're supposed to replace the nuts for the ball joints, the tie rod end and CV Axle.

The factory spindle nut for the CV Axle is 35mm and if you use a Dorman replacement, they are 36mm. I don't have the part numbers handy.

I've replaced the spindle nuts a bunch of times, the first time they go on, you have to use a ratchet as they are tight enough to not allow you to thread them by hand. I re-used one once while waiting for parts, then it was stretched enough to go on by hand. Replaced it soon after. Guess I should get off my duff and order the nuts for the ball joints and tie rod ends! 1500 miles to go before the wheels come off for a tire rotation.

I learned something new today Joe! @Joseph Garcia Didn't know the Dorman compressor is lacking with regards to the Tech-2. My truck has the basic suspension so none of those options are visible on mine.

 

[Geotrash]

Looks better than mine underneath!

Replace the rear bump stops too, your back ones are falling apart too.

I neglected to mention as I didn't do it and forget, that we're supposed to replace the nuts for the ball joints, the tie rod end and CV Axle.

The factory spindle nut for the CV Axle is 35mm and if you use a Dorman replacement, they are 36mm. I don't have the part numbers handy.

I've replaced the spindle nuts a bunch of times, the first time they go on, you have to use a ratchet as they are tight enough to not allow you to thread them by hand. I re-used one once while waiting for parts, then it was stretched enough to go on by hand. Replaced it soon after. Guess I should get off my duff and order the nuts for the ball joints and tie rod ends! 1500 miles to go before the wheels come off for a tire rotation.

I learned something new today Joe! @Joseph Garcia Didn't know the Dorman compressor is lacking with regards to the Tech-2. My truck has the basic suspension so none of those options are visible on mine.

Yep, Joseph is right. We discovered this together in a private message thread with the Tech2 connected to both my 2012 (OEM compressor) and my 2007 (Dorman compressor). Sure enough, the Dorman lacks some of the info and command functions, but it does work perfectly in its functioning otherwise as a compressor for the suspension.

 

[avalonandl]

I replaced my rear air shocks with Arnott and a Dorman Air compressor.

I did not replace rear springs and it rides fine. I am going to get my front struts done.

 

[Pointer 21]

Looks better than mine underneath!

Replace the rear bump stops too, your back ones are falling apart too.

I neglected to mention as I didn't do it and forget, that we're supposed to replace the nuts for the ball joints, the tie rod end and CV Axle.

The factory spindle nut for the CV Axle is 35mm and if you use a Dorman replacement, they are 36mm. I don't have the part numbers handy.

I've replaced the spindle nuts a bunch of times, the first time they go on, you have to use a ratchet as they are tight enough to not allow you to thread them by hand. I re-used one once while waiting for parts, then it was stretched enough to go on by hand. Replaced it soon after. Guess I should get off my duff and order the nuts for the ball joints and tie rod ends! 1500 miles to go before the wheels come off for a tire rotation.

I learned something new today Joe! @Joseph Garcia Didn't know the Dorman compressor is lacking with regards to the Tech-2. My truck has the basic suspension so none of those options are visible on mine.

-The Rear Bumper Stop is on Backorder (the dealer had told me that as well as indicative in my cross referencing)

Are you referring to your original sheet:

"SUSPENSION CONTROL ARM NUT, FRONT, LOWER" (NO PART NUMBER) qty 4

"SUSPENSION CONTROL ARM WASHER, FRONT, LOWER" (NO PART NUMBER) qty 4

It looks like the ball joints, tie rod ends, etc come with nuts; however, the ball joints are pressed into the arms already on the parts I've ordered

Can the hardware be bought at the automotive store?

I'm seeing kits but I'm pretty confused and/or cross eyed to ensure I'm properly identifying what goes with what regarding nuts, washers, etc...

I'm sure these answers are somewhere but they're hidden!!!

 

[swathdiver]

-The Rear Bumper Stop is on Backorder (the dealer had told me that as well as indicative in my cross referencing)

Are you referring to your original sheet:

"SUSPENSION CONTROL ARM NUT, FRONT, LOWER" (NO PART NUMBER) qty 4

"SUSPENSION CONTROL ARM WASHER, FRONT, LOWER" (NO PART NUMBER) qty 4

It looks like the ball joints, tie rod ends, etc come with nuts; however, the ball joints are pressed into the arms already on the parts I've ordered

Can the hardware be bought at the automotive store?

No, those are for the long bolts for the lower control arms, not the ball joints. None of them come with the nuts. The tie rod end comes with a new jam nut but not the nut that secures it to the knuckle.

I reckon they can be bought there or at a hardware store selling Grade 8 or higher. I looked once or twice without success.

 

[Pointer 21]

No, those are for the long bolts for the lower control arms, not the ball joints. None of them come with the nuts. The tie rod end comes with a new jam nut but not the nut that secures it to the knuckle.

I reckon they can be bought there or at a hardware store selling Grade 8 or higher. I looked once or twice without success.

Thank you sir- I've got some items trickling through Amazon now. I'll get it figured out one way or another.

Thanks for your patience and knowledge!!!