I cleaned out the intake when this happened several months ago and that seemed to have solved the issue. Messages started popping up, losing power this week, so I smugly told my wife, "I got this, woman." Cleaned the intake butterfly area again. i noticed that it was a lot dirtier than I would have thought after being cleaned not too too long ago. That helped, for a day or two. Now it's back. What could be the cause of all this nonsense? Oh, now I can't open the rear lift gate. That's the least of my worries, but it may be connected to this other stuff since it happened seemingly at the same time.
2011 Tahoe LTZ Electronics shut down, loss of power, and Service Traction Control, Stabilitrac off, reduced engine power msg coming on
- Thread starter Brawny
- Start date
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Tahoe14
Full Access Member
Sorry, I am getting nothing from the pic. I was gonna ask how you "cleaned out the intake" but then I saw "Cleaned the intake butterfly area again". So, now I am assuming you actually cleaned the throttle body "throttle bore", correct? Sounds to me like two problems but what do I know, I am a GMT800 guy, not these new fangled GMT900s.
First thing I always recommend is to double check the work area. Double and triple check anything you disconnected to get to the throttle body. You may not have gotten something/anything plugged back in correctly/tight. Please explain how you cleaned the throttle body and where you learned to do so? I ask because you did not know the vernacular and therefore the work may have not been done right. OR, explain how you cleaned the "intake". What did you use to clean it with? Did you force open the throttle body butterfly, a BIG NO NO.
Give me some info and I will try to muddle thru these damnation GMT900s.
First thing I always recommend is to double check the work area. Double and triple check anything you disconnected to get to the throttle body. You may not have gotten something/anything plugged back in correctly/tight. Please explain how you cleaned the throttle body and where you learned to do so? I ask because you did not know the vernacular and therefore the work may have not been done right. OR, explain how you cleaned the "intake". What did you use to clean it with? Did you force open the throttle body butterfly, a BIG NO NO.
Give me some info and I will try to muddle thru these damnation GMT900s.
^^^This. Need to see the codes for clues to the cause.
First thing to check is the battery, battery cables, grounds.
Yeah, throttle body. I was in a rush to get this thread posted before company came over and am just now getting back to it. As I was posting earlier, and looking up "stabilitrac, lift gate," and such, a Youtube video suggestion popped up. I had read the other day that if certain things were not jiving, the lift gate would not open so I took a risk and followed the advice of the video. I also know from looking at this issue months ago that the Stabilitrac issue was a "safety" issue that popped up when certain things weren't jiving. Long story short, I replaced the brake light switch. It's late here, midnight, so all I checked was the lift gate: now working.
The hesitation issue was so intermittent that even if I drove it around, I might not could tell if it were fixed or not. I believe it is, but can't verify right now. Here's the vidja:
Thanks guys. I always appreciate any input. Unfortunately when one does not have diagnostics equipment it tends to be a game of hit or miss and could end up costing more in the long run. I know these risks and have accepted them. I had a Jeep XJ for several years. I was always chasing one thing or another down on it. This Tahoe, while not problem free, has tended, so far, to be easier to diagnose and fix.
The hesitation issue was so intermittent that even if I drove it around, I might not could tell if it were fixed or not. I believe it is, but can't verify right now. Here's the vidja:
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
Do you notice that your voltmeter shows the needle running high all the time lately? Either a bad connection due to loose/corroded wires or the battery is about dead.
Check your work around the throttle body, make sure there are no pinched wires that are grounding out and of course, check your DTCs for clues.
Check your work around the throttle body, make sure there are no pinched wires that are grounding out and of course, check your DTCs for clues.
Just went for a spin. Nothing out of the ordinary so far. Not sure if the voltmeter is running high or not. My wife drives this thing 99.9% of the time and is pretty sensitive to changes. Much more than I am. It's running just past 14, right under 15 volts and steady the whole drive. Nothing obviously wrong around the throttle body.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Ok. That's a clue. The alternator is running at full output trying to keep that battery going and you guys from getting stuck.
Like we said before, corroded or loose wires can cause this or it might just be time for a new battery.
If you have an advanced scan tool, you can pull up the state of charge. If it is below 65%, it's out of spec and needs replacement.
If you do not. Let the truck sit overnight and put a voltmeter on it in the morning. Compare the voltage with the outside temperature to get an idea of the state of charge according to this chart:
Sorry, life got in the way and I never did respond. I did replace the brake light switch and everything went well, until today. When I get a chance I'll look into all the stuff you mentioned. Thanks! Right now I'm disconnecting the negative to see if I can get it to reset. At least so I can get it back to the house.
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