2010 Tahoe LT w/ 67k Buy or No?

[johnny_88]

I found a 2010 Tahoe LT with the luxury package for sale and the dealer is currently holding it for me. It has 67k. The interior is in fantastic shape and the exterior is too but the underside does have a fair amount of rust. I do plan on getting it undercoated and rust proofed. I’m in northeast Ohio so this isn’t a surprise. It was owned by two people and came from New York. The dealer is putting new brakes/rotors on the front and rear as well as new tires. I noticed the trans line from the cooler had a leak and they are fixing that too. I do plan on doing the afm delete. The engine is clean and runs smooth, no noises. I’ll be trading my 15 Accord w/ 86k in for it. Just curious on everyone’s thoughts, this will be my first Tahoe.

 

[Myfirstz71]

Did you get a carfax report? if they give you a free one great, if not PM me and I can help you out.

 

[Doubeleive]

price?
check the air ride shocks in the rear, even after sitting not driven the bellows on them should be firm, just reach under behind the rear wheel and squeeze they are on one air line so if one is firm the other will be as well, same goes if they are flat (no air inside). on this platform it is typical to see them wear out around 80-85k not a big deal Arnott makes a replacement just go into it knowing it's a wear item but if they are shot maybe the dealer will address that as well before you sign. afm can be turned off with a canned tune or other devices, a full delete is probably not worth spending money on.

 

[johnny_88]

Did you get a carfax report? if they give you a free one great, if not PM me and I can help you out.

Yep I have the car fax. 17 service records. Both owners averaged about 6k miles a year on it. Two minor accidents reported. I looked it over well and didn’t see any kind of structural damage. Was dealer serviced.

 

[johnny_88]

price?
check the air ride shocks in the rear, even after sitting not driven the bellows on them should be firm, just reach under behind the rear wheel and squeeze they are on one air line so if one is firm the other will be as well, same goes if they are flat (no air inside). on this platform it is typical to see them wear out around 80-85k not a big deal Arnott makes a replacement just go into it knowing it's a wear item but if they are shot maybe the dealer will address that as well before you sign. afm can be turned off with a canned tune or other devices, a full delete is probably not worth spending money on.

$19k. The rear shocks are rusty but I didn’t see any leaking from them. By the looks of them I was planning on replacing them. I brought it up to the dealer but unless they are leaking they won’t replace them. Not a big deal since they are fairly inexpensive. I’m doing the afm bypass that plugs in.

 

[Doubeleive]

sounds like you have done your homework, if you are a person that likes to save money and do your own repairs a tech2 is a great tool to have for these, they can diagnose bcm level trouble codes, program modules and variety of other uses. They run about $300 online from ebay or chinacardiags it will pay for it's self over time.

 

[Geotrash]

I found a 2010 Tahoe LT with the luxury package for sale and the dealer is currently holding it for me. It has 67k. The interior is in fantastic shape and the exterior is too but the underside does have a fair amount of rust. I do plan on getting it undercoated and rust proofed. I’m in northeast Ohio so this isn’t a surprise. It was owned by two people and came from New York. The dealer is putting new brakes/rotors on the front and rear as well as new tires. I noticed the trans line from the cooler had a leak and they are fixing that too. I do plan on doing the afm delete. The engine is clean and runs smooth, no noises. I’ll be trading my 15 Accord w/ 86k in for it. Just curious on everyone’s thoughts, this will be my first Tahoe.

My 2c: I think it's worth buying a truck out of dry country like Arizona, Texas or California, and paying to have it shipped home. My 2007 was an Arizona car all of its life until I bought it and it's still rust-free underneath now. For that money, you should find plenty for sale. It will be easier to work on and will last longer, too.

 

[johnny_88]

price?
check the air ride shocks in the rear, even after sitting not driven the bellows on them should be firm, just reach under behind the rear wheel and squeeze they are on one air line so if one is firm the other will be as well, same goes if they are flat (no air inside). on this platform it is typical to see them wear out around 80-85k not a big deal Arnott makes a replacement just go into it knowing it's a wear item but if they are shot maybe the dealer will address that as well before you sign. afm can be turned off with a canned tune or other devices, a full delete is probably not worth spending money on.

sounds like you have done your homework, if you are a person that likes to save money and do your own repairs a tech2 is a great tool to have for these, they can diagnose bcm level trouble codes, program modules and variety of other uses. They run about $300 online from ebay or chinacardiags it will pay for it's self over time.

I’ve certainly tried to learn as much as I can about them. I almost got burned on a 01 last year. Thankfully the dealer was cool and took it back. Since then I’ve done a lot of research. Definitely going to look into the tech2 and appreciate the recommendation. Unfortunately I’m in a apartment and not super handy with vehicles but I still like to know what’s going on incase a shop wants to try and get over on me.

 

[johnny_88]

My 2c: I think it's worth buying a truck out of dry country like Arizona, Texas or California, and paying to have it shipped home. My 2007 was an Arizona car all of its life until I bought it and it's still rust-free underneath now. For that money, you should find plenty for sale. It will be easier to work on and will last longer, too.

Believe me I’d like to and my previous vehicles have been out of state where salt isn’t an issue. Problem is I need to trade my current vehicle in to get one. I know I could sell it privately but I only have one car so it’d be tricky to find a buyer and another vehicle around the same time. Also buying sight unseen makes me a little nervous. The rust it has is surface rust, I didn’t see anything on the frame or anywhere else that raised any alarms.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.