I found a 2010 Tahoe LT with the luxury package for sale and the dealer is currently holding it for me. It has 67k. The interior is in fantastic shape and the exterior is too but the underside does have a fair amount of rust. I do plan on getting it undercoated and rust proofed. I’m in northeast Ohio so this isn’t a surprise. It was owned by two people and came from New York. The dealer is putting new brakes/rotors on the front and rear as well as new tires. I noticed the trans line from the cooler had a leak and they are fixing that too. I do plan on doing the afm delete. The engine is clean and runs smooth, no noises. I’ll be trading my 15 Accord w/ 86k in for it. Just curious on everyone’s thoughts, this will be my first Tahoe.
2010 Tahoe LT w/ 67k Buy or No?
- Thread starter johnny_88
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Myfirstz71
Member
Did you get a carfax report? if they give you a free one great, if not PM me and I can help you out.
price?
check the air ride shocks in the rear, even after sitting not driven the bellows on them should be firm, just reach under behind the rear wheel and squeeze they are on one air line so if one is firm the other will be as well, same goes if they are flat (no air inside). on this platform it is typical to see them wear out around 80-85k not a big deal Arnott makes a replacement just go into it knowing it's a wear item but if they are shot maybe the dealer will address that as well before you sign. afm can be turned off with a canned tune or other devices, a full delete is probably not worth spending money on.
check the air ride shocks in the rear, even after sitting not driven the bellows on them should be firm, just reach under behind the rear wheel and squeeze they are on one air line so if one is firm the other will be as well, same goes if they are flat (no air inside). on this platform it is typical to see them wear out around 80-85k not a big deal Arnott makes a replacement just go into it knowing it's a wear item but if they are shot maybe the dealer will address that as well before you sign. afm can be turned off with a canned tune or other devices, a full delete is probably not worth spending money on.
Yep I have the car fax. 17 service records. Both owners averaged about 6k miles a year on it. Two minor accidents reported. I looked it over well and didn’t see any kind of structural damage. Was dealer serviced.
$19k. The rear shocks are rusty but I didn’t see any leaking from them. By the looks of them I was planning on replacing them. I brought it up to the dealer but unless they are leaking they won’t replace them. Not a big deal since they are fairly inexpensive. I’m doing the afm bypass that plugs in.
sounds like you have done your homework, if you are a person that likes to save money and do your own repairs a tech2 is a great tool to have for these, they can diagnose bcm level trouble codes, program modules and variety of other uses. They run about $300 online from ebay or chinacardiags it will pay for it's self over time.
My 2c: I think it's worth buying a truck out of dry country like Arizona, Texas or California, and paying to have it shipped home. My 2007 was an Arizona car all of its life until I bought it and it's still rust-free underneath now. For that money, you should find plenty for sale. It will be easier to work on and will last longer, too.
I’ve certainly tried to learn as much as I can about them. I almost got burned on a 01 last year. Thankfully the dealer was cool and took it back. Since then I’ve done a lot of research. Definitely going to look into the tech2 and appreciate the recommendation. Unfortunately I’m in a apartment and not super handy with vehicles but I still like to know what’s going on incase a shop wants to try and get over on me.
Believe me I’d like to and my previous vehicles have been out of state where salt isn’t an issue. Problem is I need to trade my current vehicle in to get one. I know I could sell it privately but I only have one car so it’d be tricky to find a buyer and another vehicle around the same time. Also buying sight unseen makes me a little nervous. The rust it has is surface rust, I didn’t see anything on the frame or anywhere else that raised any alarms.
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Welcome to the Forum from NH.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.
Get a Carmax or Carvana quote to buy it from you....Honda and Toyota sedans should get snapped up quickly and probably for about the same money as the dealer is going to give you for a trade.
Thanks! Glad to be apart of it! I definitely will be participating on the forum and help the best I can! I appreciate everyone’s advice and tips they have given.
Never even thought about that! Thanks for the advice, I’ll look into it for sure!
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Go for it. There's always going to be some necessary repairs for a twelve year old car so consider that. Get the Tech-2 so you can quickly and properly diagnose things even if you have someone else do the work.
Think I will. I browsed autotrader for ones that haven’t seen winter weather but only a couple caught my eye. The hassle/cost of shipping, potentially having to get a rental car, the wait time and not being able to physically see it are factors I’d rather not deal with. I’m going into this expecting there will be things that will come up at some point. Currently waiting on the service department to get in touch with me, go over their assessment, and what repairs they will be doing. The ones I mentioned were obvious ones anyone could notice. I also want them to put it on the lift after the repairs are done and I test drive it so I can thoroughly inspect it before I make my final decision.
iamdub
Full Access Member
Just in case you didn't know about it: https://www.lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm
This will save you about $160 and you won't have to manage a dongle in the OBD port. If you have emissions inspections in your area, you won't have to unplug it (thus re-activating the system that's been dormant for a year) then complete drive cycles prior to getting inspected.
Cons are (1) You have to ship your PCM so your Tahoe will be down for a few days and (2) It may violate a warranty.
I’m curious what drives you to trade a newer Honda with similar mileage for this?
Regarding the rust, use something that penetrates and seeps in like oil or wax products. WoolWax or Fluid Film are just a couple of products you can DIY, and there are commercial applicators using those or similar products. Those will stop corrosion in it’s tracks.
It’s way too late to use materials that dry or get hard. Those will just hide corrosion and beneath the shiny surface the cancer will grow unchecked.
Welcome to the forum, it’s a good bunch here in my experience.
Regarding the rust, use something that penetrates and seeps in like oil or wax products. WoolWax or Fluid Film are just a couple of products you can DIY, and there are commercial applicators using those or similar products. Those will stop corrosion in it’s tracks.
It’s way too late to use materials that dry or get hard. Those will just hide corrosion and beneath the shiny surface the cancer will grow unchecked.
Welcome to the forum, it’s a good bunch here in my experience.
Thanks! I had no idea about having to complete drive cycles if I have to unplug it. I do have emissions testing where I’m located so I think I’ll bite the bullet and go this route.
Or get a Diablo Tuner and turn AFM off (or on) yourself. I found no change between AFM and no AFM in my 46 mile round trip commute. I turned AFM off for good just because for me there was no benefit and turning if off VERY SLIGHTLY reduced risk. I bought mine in the rust belt and other than surface rust on the frame in spots where the wax dried and fell off see no other problems. I did see one with rust around the wheel wells and at the bottom of the rear hatch so check that out if that is a deal breaker. Could probably be fixed though.
Welcome to the forum!
Welcome to the forum!
