2010 DENALI 6.2 Motor "Seized"

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
D

dyce51

TYF Newbie
Joined
Feb 5, 2024
Posts
18
Reaction score
35
I picked up a 2009 Denali In similar condition scenario. Pulled oil plug and coolant came out with the oil. Couldn’t turn motor over with breaker bar on crankshaft pulley. Had to pull engine with transmission together. Pulled the heads and here is what I found, looks like the piston exploded. Taking block to machine shop to assess, but think it can be rebuilt.
That looks rough! I haven't drained the oil but the oil is at the "full" mark with no signs of water. I'm pretty curious what I have going on though...if I do have to pull the motor, I would probably rebuild at some point and swap it into something.
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
5,609
Reaction score
13,315
Location
Richmond, VA
I was pretty sure it had a busted timing chain until I was able to see rocker arm movement through the oil fill hole in the valve cover...but I suppose it could have jumped...

I'll start up top and go from there! As stated in Original Post, I had intentions of pulling the motor...but if it's not toast I will attempt to fix.

Thanks for the input guys, and look forward to being on the forum!
Yup. Start by pulling the heads.
 

ejf2461

TYF Newbie
Joined
Oct 1, 2009
Posts
5
Reaction score
12
Location
Indianapolis
Picked up a 2010 Denali with a 6.2L I believe L94 very cheap. Was told motor was seized and my plan was to just swap a 6.0 into the truck. Previous owner said he was told that it was a lifter seized up. Story was that he started it in his driveway, it ran for 10 seconds and just shut off. Was "locked up" after that. Body is in Great shape and and transmission was rebuilt less than 100k Miles ago. Everything else had extensive service history every 3-5k miles with recommended maintenances done at specified intervals.

Anyway...motor is not original and was replaced about 50K Miles ago with a used unit...supposedly a "Low Mile" motor. Don't have any proof of this. Get the truck home, motor turns less than 1 revolution back and forth. Initial thought was maybe timing chain let go...but I was able to see rocker movement through the oil fill hole in the valve cover in the movement I am able to get out of the crank. Motor was not low on oil, and wasn't overheated.

Plan to pull valve covers at some point, but just getting some "feelers" from others on the forum. How common is it for a lifter to seize in the bore on one of these blocks? I've worked on a lot of the older "SBC" era stuff, but haven't touched much of the newer LS motors. I have no problem digging into it, assuming it's salvageable.

Again, bought it with intent to replace the motor, but if it's something I would be able to fix...that would be cool too!
Sir, Save youself some time and headache. Buy a new gm LS3 crate long block. Put your intake and injectors on it and take it to a local tuner do have a tune installed. You wont have to deal with afm/dod problems ever again or direct injection. I am a police chief and have several Tahoes and Caprices and every single one of the them have had lifter issues and then runined the camshaft lobes. After installed 3 engines in 1 Tahoe I said enough and started installing LS3 crate motors. You can save few bucks by rebuilding what your have but finding great machine shops nowadays isn't easy! Good Luck
 

Marky Dissod

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2023
Posts
1,176
Reaction score
1,523
Location
(718)-
Sir, Save youself some time and headache. Buy a new gm LS3 crate long block.
Put your intake and injectors on it and take it to a local tuner do have a tune installed.
You wont have to deal with afm/dod problems ever again or direct injection.
I am a police chief and have several Tahoes and Caprices and every single one of the them have had lifter issues and then runined the camshaft lobes.
After installed 3 engines in 1 Tahoe I said enough and started installing LS3 crate motors.
You can save few bucks by rebuilding what your have but finding great machine shops nowadays isn't easy! Good Luck
How do we get this post stickied? AWESOME.
 

hagar

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Posts
180
Reaction score
116
Pull your spark plugs and turn the engine over by hand. I have seen it before that a head gasket went and filled a cylinder with coolant. The engine would turn over part way in both directions before locking up, exactly like yours. I actually thought the engine had a broken crank or rod or something so I pulled it out. I Caused myself a whole bunch of extra work, could have just popped the head and changed the gasket.
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
5,609
Reaction score
13,315
Location
Richmond, VA
Sir, Save youself some time and headache. Buy a new gm LS3 crate long block. Put your intake and injectors on it and take it to a local tuner do have a tune installed. You wont have to deal with afm/dod problems ever again or direct injection. I am a police chief and have several Tahoes and Caprices and every single one of the them have had lifter issues and then runined the camshaft lobes. After installed 3 engines in 1 Tahoe I said enough and started installing LS3 crate motors. You can save few bucks by rebuilding what your have but finding great machine shops nowadays isn't easy! Good Luck
Good advice, especially if you have a departmental budget to work with. :thumbsup:

On the shoestring "thousandaire" budget that many folks are working with (either real or spouse-imposed), doing some diagnostics and relatively inexpensive repairs, may need to be step 1, by necessity.
 
OP
OP
D

dyce51

TYF Newbie
Joined
Feb 5, 2024
Posts
18
Reaction score
35
Thanks for the advice guys...I bought this as a "Project" to get into an XL cheap. The current short Yukon we have just doesn't have enough room for all our "Crap" when taking the whole family overnight somewhere, or throwing in a stroller with all 4 kids along... A new crate motor would cost more than I bought the rig for. If it doesn't pan out, I'll end up parting it out. My plan was to pull the plugs first and then move on to valve covers and go from there. Plan on tearing into it in the next week. I'll update the post as I go!
 

Marky Dissod

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2023
Posts
1,176
Reaction score
1,523
Location
(718)-
Sir,
...
I am a police chief and have several Tahoes and Caprices.
Every single one of the them have had (dual-mode) lifter issues, and then ruined the camshaft lobes.
After installed 3 engines in 1 Tahoe I said enough and started installing LS3 crate motors.
May have something to do with an inordinate amount of time idling, peppered with assertive / enthusiastic driving.
Two-mode lifters especially don't deal well with quick transitions from V4 mode to high RpMs.

Plus it's pretty clever to upgrade from an L94 to an LS3 - an extra 30 horses & 15ftlb, no V4 mode, no VVT.
 
OP
OP
D

dyce51

TYF Newbie
Joined
Feb 5, 2024
Posts
18
Reaction score
35
Well, pulled spark plugs last night, thinking it dropped a valve...
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20240213_040052678.jpg
    PXL_20240213_040052678.jpg
    150.1 KB · Views: 11
  • PXL_20240213_040049097.MP.jpg
    PXL_20240213_040049097.MP.jpg
    154.4 KB · Views: 12
OP
OP
D

dyce51

TYF Newbie
Joined
Feb 5, 2024
Posts
18
Reaction score
35
Another update for everyone interested. Pulled valve cover and nothing looked odd, loosened rockers on that cylinder and nothing seemed odd there. Threw my leakdown tester on that cylinder and I'm getting air out the intake only, so fingers crossed piston is intact and it's a head/valve issue yet...and the piston didn't get the piss beat out of it!

Next couple weeks I'll get the coolant drained and start tearing apart and pull the head!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,203
Posts
1,812,071
Members
92,305
Latest member
DefiantOne
Top