2008 Tahoe lowering complete

Keith Oelzen

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Finished the lowering on my 2008 Tahoe, mostly....

I used the Belltech 2511 spindles, and Belltech 25003 struts with stock springs up front.
I also replaced the upper arms and adjuster bolts and cams, lower joints, outter rod ends , hub bearings, and axle shafts.
The lower arm bushings and sway bar links looked good, so they stayed.

Out back I used the Belltech 4230 Trailblazer springs, Belltech 2410FF shocks, DJM RK2007 relocation and shock extension kit, and Air Lift 60748 helper bag kit. I just grabbed a new short poly bump stop off Amazon.

Since everything on the front was replaced, I just ballparked the alignment till I goes to the shop for a proper setup.
Actually got it pretty close, mabey a little camber on the passenger side that looks like it will adjust out.

I was expecting to get a 4/6 F/R drop out of this setup, but actually ended up with around 3/4 F/R as measured.
Overall, it's acceptable and rides really nice without any rubbing or bottoming out.
I did do the free travel mod.

Only one issue concerning Me.

At the drivers rear, it seems like the emergency brake cables are getting slightly tensioned with the new shock placement.
I've removed the factory wire retainer off the frame, which freed it up just a bit, but I still think it's under tension pulling the brake on that side.
I can hear the pads chafing as I roll. I haven't looked to see if that sides cable is adjustable, to add a little slack.

Any ideas on that cable, or has this been experienced before??

Other than this one issue, I'm really pleased with the drop.

Here's before and after pics.

 

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iamdub

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Finished the lowering on my 2008 Tahoe, mostly....

I used the Belltech 2511 spindles, and Belltech 25003 struts with stock springs up front.
I also replaced the upper arms and adjuster bolts and cams, lower joints, outter rod ends , hub bearings, and axle shafts.
The lower arm bushings and sway bar links looked good, so they stayed.

Out back I used the Belltech 4230 Trailblazer springs, Belltech 2410FF shocks, DJM RK2007 relocation and shock extension kit, and Air Lift 60748 helper bag kit. I just grabbed a new short poly bump stop off Amazon.

Since everything on the front was replaced, I just ballparked the alignment till I goes to the shop for a proper setup.
Actually got it pretty close, mabey a little camber on the passenger side that looks like it will adjust out.

I was expecting to get a 4/6 F/R drop out of this setup, but actually ended up with around 3/4 F/R as measured.
Overall, it's acceptable and rides really nice without any rubbing or bottoming out.
I did do the free travel mod.

Only one issue concerning Me.

At the drivers rear, it seems like the emergency brake cables are getting slightly tensioned with the new shock placement.
I've removed the factory wire retainer off the frame, which freed it up just a bit, but I still think it's under tension pulling the brake on that side.
I can hear the pads chafing as I roll. I haven't looked to see if that sides cable is adjustable, to add a little slack.

Any ideas on that cable, or has this been experienced before??

Other than this one issue, I'm really pleased with the drop.

Here's before and after pics.


Nice! Similar stance as my '08.

Did you re-route the brake cables ABOVE the sway bar?

Found this pic in my build thread:

img_4927-jpg.jpg


The cables rub the shocks, but they're not being pulled.
 
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Keith Oelzen

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Thanks for that picture.
The routing remained the same as factory.
I don't believe the passenger cable is an issue, as there's enough slack.
It's the driver's side getting tensioned behind the shock, similar to your photo.
But mine is tighter than "just rubbing".

I need to find time to get back under there and look around for some adjustment.
I'm not driving it until after the alignment later this week.

I did find an older thread that suggested zip-tieing the cable to the shock extender.
Hopefully, that will make that cable arc more to the rear and give Me some room.
 
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Drwinlied

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My cable housing rubs tf out of the drivers side rear shock. There has been zero rerouting. It's not ideal.

I didn't see a pic of the cable in your situation, but it would need to have something fairly drastically wrong to start tensioning the ACTUAL cable inside the housing enough to pull the pads. I mean, right? Even with my shock extenders, which move the shock more back than down, the cable has enough slack to bow out, look terrible, rub my shock to the point of wearing through, and still not pull the pads...you're going to need to show us what your working with back there lol
 
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Keith Oelzen

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My cable housing rubs tf out of the drivers side rear shock. There has been zero rerouting. It's not ideal.

I didn't see a pic of the cable in your situation, but it would need to have something fairly drastically wrong to start tensioning the ACTUAL cable inside the housing enough to pull the pads. I mean, right? Even with my shock extenders, which move the shock more back than down, the cable has enough slack to bow out, look terrible, rub my shock to the point of wearing through, and still not pull the pads...you're going to need to show us what your working with back there lol
Here's what I have with the wire cable retainer removed.
This is on the ground loaded.

I understand what you're saying.
With this being a jacketed cable, there shouldn't be any increased internal cable tension.

I'll pull that side apart and see if there isn't just a pin or pad hanging up.
 

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Shunto

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This really looks great. I guess that you don't Tow anything small Boat or Jet ski or anything...
I am curious how the ride is going to be velvety smooth or will it be like a Buck board?
Either way it looks perfect. BTW what are you going to do about wheels/ tires?
 
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Keith Oelzen

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Thanks!

I got stuck at work, so I'll need to reschedule my alignment appointment.
I've only put a few miles on it since the drop, bit it seems to ride nicely.
Not too firm, and not wallowing around either. Seems smoother than before, and handles well.
I'm sure all the new front components play into that. I replaced all the sway bar mounting with urethane too.

The tires on there now have plenty of life left in them.
When the time comes for replacement, I'll probably get a set of the Texas Edition 20's.
(I know they're way past played out, but I like the 5 spoke look. And I'm old, lol)

I did install the Airlift helper bags in the rear springs, so towing isn't out the window just yet.
I'm only running 5 lbs in them at the moment, but can add up to 30ish if needed.
I do have a car trailer I'd like to hook up occasionally....?? We'll see.
 

Shunto

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Thanks!

I got stuck at work, so I'll need to reschedule my alignment appointment.
I've only put a few miles on it since the drop, bit it seems to ride nicely.
Not too firm, and not wallowing around either. Seems smoother than before, and handles well.
I'm sure all the new front components play into that. I replaced all the sway bar mounting with urethane too.

The tires on there now have plenty of life left in them.
When the time comes for replacement, I'll probably get a set of the Texas Edition 20's.
(I know they're way past played out, but I like the 5 spoke look. And I'm old, lol)

I did install the Airlift helper bags in the rear springs, so towing isn't out the window just yet.
I'm only running 5 lbs in them at the moment, but can add up to 30ish if needed.
I do have a car trailer I'd like to hook up occasionally....?? We'll see.
Thanks for the reply.
I was kind of curious about towing. I guess with that kind of setup it's something that you have to make up your mind about before you proceed- either you do or you don't.
The Truck looks great. 20's on there would look great i think. That might be interesting backing down the ramp at the Marina..

What do you supposes a reputable shop would charge to do something like this Job?
 

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