2005 Tahoe Bleeding brakes question

[Jason in DLH]

I should clarify...I was told I don’t need to bleed the ABS unless the reservoir goes dry or when you change the master cylinder.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yes and no on the scanner.

You need it to actuate the ABS solenoids to get the air out. BUT, you can cheese it by bleeding the system, taking the vehicle on some gravel, engage your ABS, bleed some more. Rinse and repeat until bubbles are gone and pedal feel is normal

I need to bleed the rears on my 03 again, since the rear hoses were replaced with braided stainless. Brake pedal is still spongy--better, but still spongy. I bled the rears 10 times per side-- better--but still spongy. So with a scanner, activate the abs, THEN have someone pump the pedal--THEN crack the bleeder, per side?
Sorry to hijack you're thread op, I'm just trying to get a better handle on the exact procedure.
Thx.

 

[SnowDrifter]

I was also just told that I don’t need to bleed the ABS and I thought that the different fluids were incompatible, but apparently I stand corrected....

View attachment 264496

Of note:

Aside from being more hygroscopic, dot 4 is also more viscous. Can affect ABS performance, though I've not spent any time fussing or testing it.

I can at least verify on my rig, I've noted no ill effects from low viscosity dot 4. On paper, it better matches dot 3 spec. Only caveat is it needs to be changed more often. Fluid life wasn't as much a concern for me as I change annually. Of note, fluid branded dot 3 & dot 4 is usually dot 4 LV.

With all that said, I wouldn't sweat it too much. Vehicle was spec'd for dot 3. The brakes on these don't get terribly hot in daily driving, and it wasn't a vehicle designed for large amounts of strain on the brakes with high temps as you'd see in a high performance vehicle or one designed for heavy towing.

 

[Jason in DLH]

Nicely clarified.

 

[Jason in DLH]

I need to bleed the rears on my 03 again, since the rear hoses were replaced with braided stainless. Brake pedal is still spongy--better, but still spongy. I bled the rears 10 times per side-- better--but still spongy. So with a scanner, activate the abs, THEN have someone pump the pedal--THEN crack the bleeder, per side?
Sorry to hijack you're thread op, I'm just trying to get a better handle on the exact procedure.
Thx.

I, too, have never bled the ABS with a scan tool and am curious to the method.

 

[George B]

Go to 12:00 for the Tech2 Bleed.

And another with an Autel scanner

 

[OR VietVet]

Go to 12:00 for the Tech2 Bleed.

And another with an Autel scanner

Well, that looked easy peasy.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Go to 12:00 for the Tech2 Bleed.

And another with an Autel scanner

That Motiv bleeder is nice.

 

[Old Goat]

FINALLY got this brake job done!

Four days in the shop!

Both rear bleeder screws were rusting shut. No rubber caps were on them, full of rust.
Worst part was the two rubber lines at the center of the rear axle took most of one day.
Had to work in a two inch tall space above frame cross member and floor stiffener channel to get bracket loose to re-engineer bracket mounting holes because the two hoses are not made as they were originally. You can only get two left side one, not right side one.



WOW!

 

[Old Goat]

And, the scanner auto bleed thing was a godsend!