2005 Tahoe Bleeding brakes question

[Old Goat]

About to change brake fluid and wondering if there is a special procedure to bleed system with Stabilitrac ABS?

 

[treehan77]

AFAIK, just do NOT let the reservoir go dry and you should be fine. I haven’t had a problem either time, but I make sure and keep the reservoir from emptying and getting air in the system.

 

[OR VietVet]

Several you tube videos about this. Watch several to get a consensus. Some videos are worthless and that is why you need to watch more than just a couple.

 

[Jason in DLH]

You can use a vacuum bleeder that hooks up to an air compressor....

Or use a tool like this Innova that makes the ABS pump...

 

[Old Goat]

Thanks guys. Not my first horse race.
I have been using a pressure bleeder since the early 80's, wouldn't do it any other way! Fifteen minutes and DONE.

Going from Dot 3 to Dot 5, plan to flush system before taking apart with Denatured Alcohol, then take apart to blow out all lines, rebuild all calipers, then place new master and put in Dot 5 and pressure bleed.

Just wondering about having to have a scanner to auto bleed ABS system with Stabilitrac?

 

[Jason in DLH]

Gotchya. If it were me, then I’d use the Innova 5510 or equivalent to do the ABS bleed. Wouldn’t want to have mixed brake fluids.

 

[Jason in DLH]

Sounds like you’re well on your way to doing it properly.

 

[Old Goat]

Thanks Jason,
I am told I don't need to do a scanner bleed on this vehicle. Guess I'll find out for sure when I get the last of six rubber hoses in this week. Amazon has been really good at sending the wrong hose six times!

 

[SnowDrifter]

Yes and no on the scanner.

You need it to actuate the ABS solenoids to get the air out. BUT, you can cheese it by bleeding the system, taking the vehicle on some gravel, engage your ABS, bleed some more. Rinse and repeat until bubbles are gone and pedal feel is normal

 

[Jason in DLH]

I was also just told that I don’t need to bleed the ABS and I thought that the different fluids were incompatible, but apparently I stand corrected....

 

[Jason in DLH]

I should clarify...I was told I don’t need to bleed the ABS unless the reservoir goes dry or when you change the master cylinder.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Yes and no on the scanner.

You need it to actuate the ABS solenoids to get the air out. BUT, you can cheese it by bleeding the system, taking the vehicle on some gravel, engage your ABS, bleed some more. Rinse and repeat until bubbles are gone and pedal feel is normal

I need to bleed the rears on my 03 again, since the rear hoses were replaced with braided stainless. Brake pedal is still spongy--better, but still spongy. I bled the rears 10 times per side-- better--but still spongy. So with a scanner, activate the abs, THEN have someone pump the pedal--THEN crack the bleeder, per side?
Sorry to hijack you're thread op, I'm just trying to get a better handle on the exact procedure.
Thx.

 

[SnowDrifter]

I was also just told that I don’t need to bleed the ABS and I thought that the different fluids were incompatible, but apparently I stand corrected....

View attachment 264496

Of note:

Aside from being more hygroscopic, dot 4 is also more viscous. Can affect ABS performance, though I've not spent any time fussing or testing it.

I can at least verify on my rig, I've noted no ill effects from low viscosity dot 4. On paper, it better matches dot 3 spec. Only caveat is it needs to be changed more often. Fluid life wasn't as much a concern for me as I change annually. Of note, fluid branded dot 3 & dot 4 is usually dot 4 LV.

With all that said, I wouldn't sweat it too much. Vehicle was spec'd for dot 3. The brakes on these don't get terribly hot in daily driving, and it wasn't a vehicle designed for large amounts of strain on the brakes with high temps as you'd see in a high performance vehicle or one designed for heavy towing.

 

[Jason in DLH]

Nicely clarified.

 

[Jason in DLH]

I need to bleed the rears on my 03 again, since the rear hoses were replaced with braided stainless. Brake pedal is still spongy--better, but still spongy. I bled the rears 10 times per side-- better--but still spongy. So with a scanner, activate the abs, THEN have someone pump the pedal--THEN crack the bleeder, per side?
Sorry to hijack you're thread op, I'm just trying to get a better handle on the exact procedure.
Thx.

I, too, have never bled the ABS with a scan tool and am curious to the method.

 

[George B]

Go to 12:00 for the Tech2 Bleed.

And another with an Autel scanner

 

[OR VietVet]

Go to 12:00 for the Tech2 Bleed.

And another with an Autel scanner

Well, that looked easy peasy.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Go to 12:00 for the Tech2 Bleed.

And another with an Autel scanner

That Motiv bleeder is nice.

 

[Old Goat]

FINALLY got this brake job done!

Four days in the shop!

Both rear bleeder screws were rusting shut. No rubber caps were on them, full of rust.
Worst part was the two rubber lines at the center of the rear axle took most of one day.
Had to work in a two inch tall space above frame cross member and floor stiffener channel to get bracket loose to re-engineer bracket mounting holes because the two hoses are not made as they were originally. You can only get two left side one, not right side one.



WOW!

 

[Old Goat]

And, the scanner auto bleed thing was a godsend!