2005 5.3 Ticking Journey

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filthysuburban

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I had noticed this light tapping a few months ago, and I do mean light compared to some of the ones I heard on youtube. I thought it was the oil pickup tube o-ring (oil pressure was about 20 psi hot). I ordered a pan gasket and fel-pro oil pickup tube o-ring from rockauto and did that not very fun job. I will attach pics of the oil pan, 130,000 miles and my dad always just put dino in and followed the gauges oil change timing. A little sludge but nothing horrific, I ran a magnet through the bottom of the pan and cut the filter open. No metal in the pan and the screen on the pickup tube looked fine as well.
I get it back together and fill it with pennzoil platnium 5w-30 and an acdelco filter. Ran it for a while then noticed the ticking again, maybe about 200 miles later. Most of my trips to town and work are 15-20 miles so on a really short trip I wouldn't hear anything at all. But when I pull into the garage after a decent 45 minute drive the tap is definitely noticeable and seems to correspond with the oil pressure dropping as the oil heats up. Louder under the wheel wells than from above the hood, I could maybe record it and post a vid (not sure if a mic can pick it up) but it does sound like a light exhaust leak or lifter.
So I go back to reading, the black fel-pro one I ordered was just what rockauto had listed for my make and model. I could look up the part number but it was red in the picture, the one I recieved was black. I wondered if there was just a mix up or something, it happens. So rather than guess I ordered the melling green o-ring also from rockauto which is meant to replace the red one, and got that one in. (In hindsight I think the black one is fine) The pennzoil was definitely cleaning some stuff because it got dark in the 200 miles or so since I did the o-ring the first time. Cut the filter open again, no sludge and no metal seemed fine. Didn't take pictures of that though. Put another acdelco filter on.
The round 2 didn't seem to make much difference in the sound to me, I thought maybe the pennzoil I had might have been on the thin side or something so I went and got some oreilly's 10w-40 and drained it again. Pennzoil was much less dark this time, about the same 200-300 miles since I put it in the first time. No new filter because the last 2 I cut open were fine. Oil pressure can get about 60psi when I'm getting on the interstate and oil temp isn't up, about 25-45 psi hot depending on rpm. With the pennzoil I was about 22 psi to 38 ish hot. The first time I did the o-ring I picked up a couple psi, it idled around 20 hot before.
The 10w40 did quiet it down a fair bit, but it's still there. I read about using a long handled screwdriver to listen for the sound, and I do hear a something like a metal tap on the block. Seems lower because I can hardly hear it above the engine, but under the passenger side wheel well is where I hear it best. I know exhaust leaks are common and have tried to rule that out, but usually those are more obvious cold and go away once the metal expands. This is more the opposite and the sound travels through the block, so that's where I'm at. I'm snowed in at the moment and would like my 4x4 not out of commission again, but once I can escape I'll get a valve cover gasket and check out the rockers on the passenger side. Saw some youtube videos about worn out rockers creating lash that the lifter can't take up.
I can make the budget for a crate engine if it comes to that (or do heads and lifters ugh) but I'd really rather try to sort this one out given it's 'relatively' low mileage, also I've never swapped an engine lol. If I can't find a loose rocker maybe I'll try some fixes in a bottle idk, I wanted to document all this though because I would be way more lost if others hadn't done the same. My goal is to get it squared away so I can drive it on some longer trips and not worry about being stranded in the middle of nowhere.
I'll keep the thread updated with my findings. Let me know what you guys think!
 

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strutaeng

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Nice. Have you checked the exhaust manifold bolts?

Is the noise always there or intermittent? A little ticking on cold start is normal and nothing to worry about.

The good news is your oil pressure is good so I don't believe you need a complete overhaul or crate engine, which is evident by your lack of glitter on the oil pan and opening up the oil filter. Good job on that, you are on the right track.
 

Marky Dissod

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I know exhaust leaks are common and have tried to rule that out, but usually those are more obvious cold and go away once the metal expands.
This is more the opposite and the sound travels through the block, so that's where I'm at.
Only way to definitively rule out exhaust manifold leaks making that sound is to replace the missing bolts and fix the exhaust manifold leaks.
If the bolts are missing, the leak could get worse / noisier as it warms up.

Remember that these are deep skirt blocks, acoustically different from Chevy small blocks.

Use the larger oil filter, change your oil every 3000 miles or less until you find the source of the valvetrain sound.
I think it's a valvetrain sound too, but you can't rule it out for sure until your exhaust manifold leak is fixed.

If it turns out to be a worn cam instead of lifters / pushrods / rockers, shopping for a 6.0L might be a better bang for the money.
 

15burban

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I'm new to gms but I know with the Ram hemi trucks which seem to have some problems with cam and lifters a lot of guys either run redline oil (loaded with moly) or just add lubegard biotech (also has a lot of moly but is an additive) to the oil they're using. Those two options have quieted down a lot of lifter tics. I was adding lubegard to my 6.4 ram. I didn't have any tics just wanted to hopefully prevent a problem before it started.

I know not apples to apples but lubegard is worth a shot and can be added at any time during the oil change.
 

Larryjb

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Use a stethoscope to find out where the ticking is coming from. Mine is loudest at the exhaust manifold, and barely noticeable from the valve covers. I've had this ticking for years and not actual engine troubles, so I figure it's a warped exhaust manifold (very common I hear). It's probably not worth changing engines until you rule out some of these things.
 
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filthysuburban

filthysuburban

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Nice. Have you checked the exhaust manifold bolts?

Is the noise always there or intermittent? A little ticking on cold start is normal and nothing to worry about.

The good news is your oil pressure is good so I don't believe you need a complete overhaul or crate engine, which is evident by your lack of glitter on the oil pan and opening up the oil filter. Good job on that, you are on the right track.
I'm missing the rearmost on the passenger side and front one on driver side, and the sound is intermittent. Kinda 'misses' sometimes on the new 10w40, and I didn't hear it today when I got back. I could be focusing on it too much lol, but I used to hear it bouncing off walls in drive thrus and garage. Never was audible in the cab with the windows up.
Only way to definitively rule out exhaust manifold leaks making that sound is to replace the missing bolts and fix the exhaust manifold leaks.
If the bolts are missing, the leak could get worse / noisier as it warms up.

Remember that these are deep skirt blocks, acoustically different from Chevy small blocks.

Use the larger oil filter, change your oil every 3000 miles or less until you find the source of the valvetrain sound.
I think it's a valvetrain sound too, but you can't rule it out for sure until your exhaust manifold leak is fixed.

If it turns out to be a worn cam instead of lifters / pushrods / rockers, shopping for a 6.0L might be a better bang for the money.
Yeah, I'm just dreading those manifold bolts lol. Ones snapped way back there not sure I could even get my drill in, maybe if I'm lucky vice grips could do it. Or maybe an extractor on an electric ratchet? The torque spec in my manual says only 18 ft lbs so I wonder how seized they really could be in aluminum.
Use a stethoscope to find out where the ticking is coming from. Mine is loudest at the exhaust manifold, and barely noticeable from the valve covers. I've had this ticking for years and not actual engine troubles, so I figure it's a warped exhaust manifold (very common I hear). It's probably not worth changing engines until you rule out some of these things.
I've been using a really long screwdriver as the poor mans stethoscope but I ordered a 10$ one off ebay so I can maybe learn some more. Maybe next I'll get an oil filter wrench and quit using a serpentine belt looped through a wrench lol. I do hear it best on the passenger side head, but sound travels well through the block and I can hear it with the screwdriver on the other head too but quieter.

I did get some valve cover gaskets today and pulled the passenger side cover, I took some pics but there really isn't much to see. Started it up with the cover off and saw oil come up every rocker, flow seemed even. No audible ticking because it wasn't fully warmed up. Turned the engine over and wiggled them, passenger side is tight. But I did find another issue before I even removed the cover. Spark plug wire seems to have rotted away, just removing the bracket with the coils caused it to snap right at the boot. It just turns to dust when I pinch it, so I've ordered some acdelco wires and spark plugs. The wires are fine at the top but I guess the heat makes them brittle where they meet the plug. I never had any misfire codes logged though. Could be the ticking right there, I kinda doubt it but it will be a few days before I get these parts so we will see. I'll do the other side valve cover next and check those rockers out in the meantime.
Plugs are acdelco 41962
wires are acdelco 748HH
Valve cover gasket set with bushings: fel-pro vs50504 r-1

Also unrelated but anyone know what this tube coming out the passenger side vc is for? I have a catch can installed between the drivers side pcv and the intake (and it catches oil and water) but I didn't even realize there was this thing going to the intake. My chilton manual says nothing about removing it. Seems like the hose was rotted on it too so I'll replace that.
 

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cjmcglaughlin

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I'm missing the rearmost on the passenger side and front one on driver side, and the sound is intermittent. Kinda 'misses' sometimes on the new 10w40, and I didn't hear it today when I got back. I could be focusing on it too much lol, but I used to hear it bouncing off walls in drive thrus and garage. Never was audible in the cab with the windows up.

Yeah, I'm just dreading those manifold bolts lol. Ones snapped way back there not sure I could even get my drill in, maybe if I'm lucky vice grips could do it. Or maybe an extractor on an electric ratchet? The torque spec in my manual says only 18 ft lbs so I wonder how seized they really could be in aluminum.

I've been using a really long screwdriver as the poor mans stethoscope but I ordered a 10$ one off ebay so I can maybe learn some more. Maybe next I'll get an oil filter wrench and quit using a serpentine belt looped through a wrench lol. I do hear it best on the passenger side head, but sound travels well through the block and I can hear it with the screwdriver on the other head too but quieter.

I did get some valve cover gaskets today and pulled the passenger side cover, I took some pics but there really isn't much to see. Started it up with the cover off and saw oil come up every rocker, flow seemed even. No audible ticking because it wasn't fully warmed up. Turned the engine over and wiggled them, passenger side is tight. But I did find another issue before I even removed the cover. Spark plug wire seems to have rotted away, just removing the bracket with the coils caused it to snap right at the boot. It just turns to dust when I pinch it, so I've ordered some acdelco wires and spark plugs. The wires are fine at the top but I guess the heat makes them brittle where they meet the plug. I never had any misfire codes logged though. Could be the ticking right there, I kinda doubt it but it will be a few days before I get these parts so we will see. I'll do the other side valve cover next and check those rockers out in the meantime.
Plugs are acdelco 41962
wires are acdelco 748HH
Valve cover gasket set with bushings: fel-pro vs50504 r-1

Also unrelated but anyone know what this tube coming out the passenger side vc is for? I have a catch can installed between the drivers side pcv and the intake (and it catches oil and water) but I didn't even realize there was this thing going to the intake. My chilton manual says nothing about removing it. Seems like the hose was rotted on it too so I'll replace that.
As far as I know that hose is also part of the PCV system and draws in fresh air to compensate for what is sucked out by the valve on the other side (unsure if this is correct). I also have a noise from the right side of the engine only when warmed up. I put a Dorman clamp on my front manifold bolt that was broken and I think that fixed it, or at least made it quieter. But I also have a fewer other broken manifold bolts in the rear I haven’t tried to fix yet
 

nonickatall

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It can also be carbon deposit in the hydros. I had as well a ticking and I used one liter Diesel in the engine, short before the oil change. Bevor, i checked the oil and it was honey clear. I filled in one Liter Diesel, drove approximate ten kilometers and changed the oil. The oil was black, so a lot of carbon deposit came of.

Since then my ticking is much better and i plan to do that now before every oil change.

By the way it was very funny, when I stoped at the fuel station, opened my hood, removed the oil cap and start to fill diesel into my engine. The guy next to me looked very a astounded. I turned to him and said: it's an electric car.

His look was priceless... :gr_grin:
 
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filthysuburban

filthysuburban

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Did the other side valve cover and checked those rockers too, all seems good. Got the stethoscope and listened around but It's so quiet on 10w40 I can't pinpoint it anywhere, I almost hear it better with my ears than the stethoscope. I think I might go for a strategic "wait and see" approach for now. If it gets louder again I have some mystery oil, seems very similar to light oil like diesel. I think switching to synthetic on a 130k mile engine might have been my mistake. It is tempting to flush it with atf or diesel just because if that doesn't do it nothing will. Gonna run this oil for about 3 thousand miles and see what happens.
I also have a noise from the right side of the engine only when warmed up. I put a Dorman clamp on my front manifold bolt that was broken and I think that fixed it, or at least made it quieter. But I also have a fewer other broken manifold bolts in the rear I haven’t tried to fix yet
It's so hard to search about ticking non-afm 5.3's lol. It's all people hearing cold piston slap for the first time or the AFM imploding. Good to know that you had something similar that was fixed with that clamp. I couldn't even find anyone saying they had an exhaust leak that didn't quiet down once their engine warmed up.
 

cjmcglaughlin

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Did the other side valve cover and checked those rockers too, all seems good. Got the stethoscope and listened around but It's so quiet on 10w40 I can't pinpoint it anywhere, I almost hear it better with my ears than the stethoscope. I think I might go for a strategic "wait and see" approach for now. If it gets louder again I have some mystery oil, seems very similar to light oil like diesel. I think switching to synthetic on a 130k mile engine might have been my mistake. It is tempting to flush it with atf or diesel just because if that doesn't do it nothing will. Gonna run this oil for about 3 thousand miles and see what happens.

It's so hard to search about ticking non-afm 5.3's lol. It's all people hearing cold piston slap for the first time or the AFM imploding. Good to know that you had something similar that was fixed with that clamp. I couldn't even find anyone saying they had an exhaust leak that didn't quiet down once their engine warmed up.
For what it’s worth, I switched to synthetic at around 155k and several oil leaks developed soon after. I’m thinking the synthetic did a good job cleaning the motor out (which is good) but also opened up some weak points on the seals.
 
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filthysuburban

filthysuburban

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Well the sound is louder again after a couple months and 3k miles, it kinda has a chirp or squeak to it now. Stethoscope seems to lead me to lifters. So I've decided to do the heads, cam and lifters, oil pump, timing set and gaskets. Fully aware this work and parts could make no difference in the sound, but I'm betting it's a lifter. Still trying to decide on the cam. Looking into getting a stage 1 cam or something that is close to stock and will run with stock tune and torque converter until I can get it tuned. Wouldn't mind more power but I would mind my 4l60 exploding so I'm aiming for stockish reliability. Stock cam is an option too, if the aftermarket cams are too incompatible with stock tune (they say stage 1 is fine but idk). I have a backup ride so not in a huge hurry.

I'm looking at these parts, the summit parts seem like a good deal. Not ordered anything yet, curious what people think of the summit parts. Should I mess with trunnion bearings? The old ones had zero vertical play when I wiggled them by hand. No pushrods because I'm going to measure that once it's all together again. Going to have heads redone at a shop.

parts
Summit Racing SUM-HTLSKIT2 - Summit Racing™ LS Lifter and Guide Kits $184.48
Melling High-Volume Oil Pumps M295HV $156.36
Cloyes Gear C-3220 - Cloyes Heavy-Duty Timing Sets $31.99
Summit Racing LS Series Retrofit Trunnion Kits SME-143002 $120.59 ?
Summit Racing SUM-174002 - Summit Racing™ Valve Springs $64.79
Summit Racing SUM-150106 - Summit Racing™ Camshaft Retainer Plates $17.09

bolts/gasket
ARP 134-1003 - ARP Cam Bolts $7.09
ARP 134-3610 - ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Bolt Kits $118.99
ARP 234-2503 - ARP Balancer Bolts $33.99
ICT Billet Exhaust Manifold Bolts 551696 $21.99
Fel-Pro Head Gasket Sets Fel-Pro HS 26191 PT-1 $194.99

I was looking at these cams, I see melling also makes a stage 1 truck cam but is not very popular.
Summit Racing™ Pro LS Vortec Truck Swap Camshafts SUM-8718R1 $269.99
BTR GEN III & IV TRUCK CAM - STAGE 1 - V2 - BTR30612120 $349.99

Pretty sure the prices were lower last time I looked lol.

Edit to include this awesome post which has the list of tools needed for those playing along
 
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strutaeng

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Well the sound is louder again after a couple months and 3k miles, it kinda has a chirp or squeak to it now. Stethoscope seems to lead me to lifters. So I've decided to do the heads, cam and lifters, oil pump, timing set and gaskets. Fully aware this work and parts could make no difference in the sound, but I'm betting it's a lifter. Still trying to decide on the cam. Looking into getting a stage 1 cam or something that is close to stock and will run with stock tune and torque converter until I can get it tuned. Wouldn't mind more power but I would mind my 4l60 exploding so I'm aiming for stockish reliability. Stock cam is an option too, if the aftermarket cams are too incompatible with stock tune (they say stage 1 is fine but idk). I have a backup ride so not in a huge hurry.

I'm looking at these parts, the summit parts seem like a good deal. Not ordered anything yet, curious what people think of the summit parts. Should I mess with trunnion bearings? The old ones had zero vertical play when I wiggled them by hand. No pushrods because I'm going to measure that once it's all together again. Going to have heads redone at a shop.

parts
Summit Racing SUM-HTLSKIT2 - Summit Racing™ LS Lifter and Guide Kits $184.48
Melling High-Volume Oil Pumps M295HV $156.36
Summit Racing True Roller Timing Sets SUM-G6640 $132.29
Summit Racing LS Series Retrofit Trunnion Kits SME-143002 $120.59 ?
Summit Racing SUM-174002 - Summit Racing™ Valve Springs $64.79
Summit Racing SUM-150106 - Summit Racing™ Camshaft Retainer Plates $17.09

bolts/gasket
ARP 134-1003 - ARP Cam Bolts $7.09
ARP 134-3610 - ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Bolt Kits $118.99
ARP 234-2503 - ARP Balancer Bolts $33.99
ICT Billet Exhaust Manifold Bolts 551696 $21.99
Fel-Pro 260-1973 - Fel-Pro Engine Gasket Kits $237.99

I was looking at these cams, I see melling also makes a stage 1 truck cam but is not very popular.
Summit Racing™ Pro LS Vortec Truck Swap Camshafts SUM-8718R1 $269.99
BTR GEN III & IV TRUCK CAM - STAGE 1 - V2 - BTR30612120 $349.99

Pretty sure the prices were lower last time I looked lol.

I started with the same idea as you thinking top end refresh... long story short, I wound up pulling the engine. I'm using that Summit Racing cam, and a bunch of their stuff. Summit is local to me, so that's a big factor for me.

May be of some help to you: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/tty-head-bolts-with-engine-in-vehicle.147231/
 
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filthysuburban

filthysuburban

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Reading about what lifters are good and now I'm scared lol, apparently all the aftermarket trays are suspect and lifters on ebay/amazon are 99% fake. I know better than to buy lifters from there but the part I ordered says Delphi and delphi will not warranty any of their ls7 lifters (when they stopped I don't know) Hmm... Should have plenty of time while the heads are in the shop to fuss about lifters, I'm going to micrometer them and see for myself if I like them. I can usually smell junk and if I don't like them even a little they're going back for the double priced gm performance or morel. Don't want to spend a bunch but it's easily justified on lifters, it's 200$ more for insurance and those engines aren't getting cheaper.

Would love to hear about anyone's experience using sum-ht215 lifters. This guy used the summit lifters seems like the build went well https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2010-burb-misfire.142262/page-9#post-1792808

Also getting the summit cam, less aggressive and easier tune. Torque will be very welcome on 3.43 gears.
 
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filthysuburban

filthysuburban

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Answered my own lifter question pretty easily. Got one genuine gm lifter from summit and it's the exact same as the delphi summit brand ones lol. Only the date code is different(and the gm part bag), so save your money and just get the summit(jegs/napa/etc.) ones. They all are from the same factory, maybe QC is tighter on the ones the sell to GM idk.

Got a set of melling rocker arms (MR1341), a couple of the old ones are scratched and pitted as opposed to all the others where the cup is mirror-like shiny. One on #8 where I heard the sound is the most pitted and scratched. Also got the arp thread cleaning tap ARP 912-0011 and comp cams 7702 pushrod measuring tool, because murphys law.

Heads pressure tested good and getting the valve grind and resurface + new valve spring/seals + 3 broken manifold bolts removed. Cam looks fine which is good and maybe bad because I see no evidence of that grindy sound. Cam bearings look fine as far as I can see.
8 inch gear puller slightly trimmed with an angle grinder got the crank cam gear off.
Heating the harmonic balancer bolt and hitting it with penetrating oil is a good idea, I was worried I was going to snap my breaker bar until I oiled and torched then it came right off.

Now just taking my time scraping the head gasket surfaces with a razor blade and brake cleaner... anyone have a favorite method for cleaning head surfaces? I'm thinking I'll get them as clean as I can with the current method then finish with some lint-free cloths and a more aggressive solvent like oven cleaner or acetone. Not a huge fan of whizzing it with a die grinder or stuff I see on youtube...
 

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cjmcglaughlin

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Answered my own lifter question pretty easily. Got one genuine gm lifter from summit and it's the exact same as the delphi summit brand ones lol. Only the date code is different(and the gm part bag), so save your money and just get the summit(jegs/napa/etc.) ones. They all are from the same factory, maybe QC is tighter on the ones the sell to GM idk.

Got a set of melling rocker arms (MR1341), a couple of the old ones are scratched and pitted as opposed to all the others where the cup is mirror-like shiny. One on #8 where I heard the sound is the most pitted and scratched. Also got the arp thread cleaning tap ARP 912-0011 and comp cams 7702 pushrod measuring tool, because murphys law.

Heads pressure tested good and getting the valve grind and resurface + new valve spring/seals + 3 broken manifold bolts removed. Cam looks fine which is good and maybe bad because I see no evidence of that grindy sound. Cam bearings look fine as far as I can see.
8 inch gear puller slightly trimmed with an angle grinder got the crank cam gear off.
Heating the harmonic balancer bolt and hitting it with penetrating oil is a good idea, I was worried I was going to snap my breaker bar until I oiled and torched then it came right off.

Now just taking my time scraping the head gasket surfaces with a razor blade and brake cleaner... anyone have a favorite method for cleaning head surfaces? I'm thinking I'll get them as clean as I can with the current method then finish with some lint-free cloths and a more aggressive solvent like oven cleaner or acetone. Not a huge fan of whizzing it with a die grinder or stuff I see on youtube...
I used steel wool to clean the surfaces for intake gaskets, seemed to work pretty well in conjunction with brake clean
 
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filthysuburban

filthysuburban

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Worlds slowest cam swap mostly done, machine shop had my heads for a month... but they do look great now.
Just started it yesterday and ran it about 30 mins, sounded fine and no leaks just misfire code.
The idle is gnarly with MAF plugged in, +49% short term fuel trim at idle because it's trying to run at too low rpm I assume. Runs fine with a bit of throttle. I'll raise the idle rpm as soon as I get around to it.. throwing all that fuel can't be good for cats.

Measured my pushrods at about 7.300 using the measuring tool and Got the btr chromeoly "PR7300312" pushrods.
Primed the oil pump by cranking it 20-30 sec with all the spark plugs out (and gas pedal to the floor) which worked flawlessly no lifter noise instant oil pressure, also idles at 60 psi cold instead of 40 now. Around 40 hot.
To tighten the balancer to 235ft-lbs loop a chain through it to the frame to keep it from moving and get your cheater pipe.
The thread cleaning tap I'm going to say in my case was unnecessary, just tiny flakes of rust came out after hitting it with air compressor and brake clean. I would want it with the greased arp bolts if I was removing those.

Got to put my front diff and all that back then test drive time! Not completely done but I'm optimistic, definitely didn't hear the old ticking noise with the stethoscope but valvetrain might be a little louder now.
 

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filthysuburban

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Hauled a couple loads of furniture for a friend after I got it back together, runs great definitely notice more torque. But on the way back of course I start hearing a tapping sound kinda light but very similar...

Flushed out the oil and no glitter, didn't hear the sound until like 100 miles though. It's the same area as the old tapping sound and only one valve.
Got a 7.350 pushrod (50 thou longer) and tried it in various rockers that were on the side I heard the noise and found the 3rd pushrod from the rear on cyl 6 is the problem.
I thought a longer pushrod would quiet it but instead the tick got louder.
Back to all 7.300 pushrods and debating what the hell I should do.
Could take the head off on the passenger side again and install that extra gm lifter I have in there. Funny feeling I will find nothing wrong like the first time though.
Or send it and see if the sound gets worse? It's not loud enough to hear in the cab very similar to the old sound when I ran 5w30..

Leaning toward the latter, parts I took out look fine no metal in oil. And it's hard to hear until it warms up.
 

Larryjb

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I have a ticking sound on mine. I got a stethoscope and heard a faint ticking sound from the rear of my PS exhaust manifold. After tightening the exhaust manifold bolts, the sound didn't go away, but it was definitely different. I hear that exhaust manifolds (even new ones) warp after the first heat cycles and need to be machined.

Don't overlook the easy stuff! (warped exhaust manifolds are quite common).
 

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