2002 Tahoe Electrical Issues

[Blackedout02]

My 2002 Tahoe has had an intermittent turned permanent no start.
Crank no start issue.
When I turn the key on the right turn signal gets power through the fuel pump relay (same when cranking), the service 4WD light is on, and the rear wiper comes on; both for no reason. When the headlights are on it turns on the ABS light , Park Brake light, turn signal, and fuel reads empty. Headlights off and those go away but still no start.
There are no codes relating to the issue in the system

I have inspected as much wiring as i can see (no visible damage or shorting wires), I have now replaced: BCM, Fuse box, coolant temp sensor, ignition switch and wiring, battery-engine ground cable, and fuel pump. I’ve also cleaned and verified the ground to the back of the cylinder head and under the driver door.

What else do I need to check or replace to get this truck going again?

 

[S33k3r]

There is a ground on the driver's side to check as well, the positive lead from the alternator to the fuse box (this line is known to look good, but have rusted internally, separating a lot of the little wires); it could also be a short in a wire or wires in your dash. I'd check the wires in the steering wheel and/or behind it. You also may have a stowaway, or previously had a stowaway. Check for evidence of rodents (droppings, fur, nests, chewed wires), especially in and around the fuse box under the hood, and in your dash. May have evidence in your floor console, if you have one.

Good luck!

 

[Blackedout02]

There is a ground on the driver's side to check as well, the positive lead from the alternator to the fuse box (this line is known to look good, but have rusted internally, separating a lot of the little wires); it could also be a short in a wire or wires in your dash. I'd check the wires in the steering wheel and/or behind it. You also may have a stowaway, or previously had a stowaway. Check for evidence of rodents (droppings, fur, nests, chewed wires), especially in and around the fuse box under the hood, and in your dash. May have evidence in your floor console, if you have one.

Good luck!

There was a small amount of debris (maybe beginnings of a nest) under the fuse box but no wires looked damaged when I replaced it. All of the driver side dash wiring looks good now. I replaced the ignition switch which got rid of the poorly installed and non-functional remote start and security bypass modules. Now most of the wires are fresh. I’ve been told there’s a ground next to the cluster by the A-Pillar but I have yet to find it.

 

[S33k3r]

We had an issue, recently, where we had water intrusion at the ECU. This resulted in the wiring coming into the ECU becoming rusting and brittle, with some of the wires actually breaking. So that's something else you can look into.

 

[Blackedout02]

Already checked ECM wiring and connections. All look brand new. No visible water intrusion

 

[S33k3r]

Have you checked the body control module? I'm guessing in the dark, here. But figure it is worth a look. Otherwise you are back to chasing wires.

 

[rockola1971]

Pull connectors at PCM and check for green/blue corrosion.

 

[Blackedout02]

Have you checked the body control module? I'm guessing in the dark, here. But figure it is worth a look. Otherwise you are back to chasing wires.

Already tried replacing it and no change. I’ve looked at as many wires as I can and I see nothing broken or exposed

 

[Blackedout02]

Pull connectors at PCM and check for green/blue corrosion.

Already checked and everything looks clean

 

[Fless]

Basic test for spark on both banks.

Fuel pressure test at the rail. In addition to verifying fuel pressure, are the plugs getting wet?

Use a noid light to see if the injectors are getting pulsed.

Also, there is a small ground on the passenger side firewall behind the back of the head. I think this comes from a harness and may make the ground for the injector harness, but the noid light test will verify. Could make a temporary injector ground from battery negative to the ground on the fuel rail harness.

 

[ScottyBoy]

I just had a very similar situation on my 2001. But my engine would still start and run, that being the big difference. It was acting like I had a low/dead battery or else lost a main ground wire. When I turned on my headlights, there was a faint humming/buzzing sound coming from the dash. Almost like the headlights on chime, or key left in ignition chime, but at a much lower volume and a lower tone, kinda like you would think it would sound if the battery was almost dead. I had a bunch of warning lights on my dash, turn signal indicators were both steady lit (but dimmer than normal), the fuel gauge was at zero even though I knew I had a full tank, the low fuel light/message would flash on the gauge cluster, along with weird messages like low coolant, check oil level, etc. None of my power locks, seats, or windows were working. Although you could hear the locks in the doors faintly engage when I pressed the pwr lock button. Again, they sounded very weak, like I had a dead battery. I had relays everywhere chattering like they were trying to click on and off but weak, like the battery was dead. Relays pretty much everywhere we're chattering like that, under the hood, in the dash, and even in the rear AC unit area in the rear passenger side panel.
I don't know what caused all of this as everything was fine until I jumped my AC low pressure switch on the AC accumulator as I was trying to recharge my air conditioner with refrigerant. I was jumping in to force the compressor to come on so it would start taking in the refrigerant. But right after I jumped that switch, I turned the AC control panel to high and that's when everything went to hell.
I still don't know what EXACTLY happened. I had my mechanic look at it and he hooked up his Autel bi-directional code reader and reset or reflashed all the computers/modules. I'm still not 100% sure what all he exactly reflashed, but after he did that, EVERYTHING went back to normal and started working again. I'm just glad it was a simple fix, cuz I was scared I fried my BCM or something.

 

[rockola1971]

If tranny has been recently removed check for pinched wires in between tranny and engine block. Does the starter sound healthy (normal) when the engine is cranking over?

 

[ScottyBoy]

Also, I didn't even mention this because I just assumed you already checked all this: But if you didn't, you need to check the battery voltage with a voltmeter. Check all the battery cables to make sure they are not loose or corroded. Don't just shake them to see if they are loose, unhook them from the battery and closely inspect them and clean it needed. Side post battery terminals can be deceiving as far as hiding thick green crusties under the battery terminal. The rubber boot hides it pretty well, and you can't see it until the battery is disconnected. Check the grounds on the engine and frame.
Usually these are the very first steps you take when troubleshooting a no start/weak start issue, so I didn't even mention it because I just assumed you already did all this.

 

[Rocket Man]

Have you tried a new battery? Sometimes they text good but cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. I didn’t see any mention of battery.

 

[TheRealEricG]

My 2002 Tahoe has had an intermittent turned permanent no start.
Crank no start issue.
When I turn the key on the right turn signal gets power through the fuel pump relay (same when cranking), the service 4WD light is on, and the rear wiper comes on; both for no reason. When the headlights are on it turns on the ABS light , Park Brake light, turn signal, and fuel reads empty. Headlights off and those go away but still no start.
There are no codes relating to the issue in the system

I have inspected as much wiring as i can see (no visible damage or shorting wires), I have now replaced: BCM, Fuse box, coolant temp sensor, ignition switch and wiring, battery-engine ground cable, and fuel pump. I’ve also cleaned and verified the ground to the back of the cylinder head and under the driver door.

What else do I need to check or replace to get this truck going again?

How did you reach the ground on the back of the cylinder head? I think you’re talking about the ground strap from the firewall to the back of the cylinder head? It’s been impossible for me to reach and I’ve tried for a while now. I dint understand how it’s possible from under the hood.

 

[Rocket Man]

How did you reach the ground on the back of the cylinder head? I think you’re talking about the ground strap from the firewall to the back of the cylinder head? It’s been impossible for me to reach and I’ve tried for a while now. I dint understand how it’s possible from under the hood.

Are you the Eric Goranson (“Eric G”) on TV that has zero skills at construction yet manages to have a home improvement tv show ? Thst show is a joke. I got more skills than Eric G, easily.

 

[TheRealEricG]

Are you the Eric Goranson (“Eric G”) on TV that has zero skills at construction yet manages to have a home improvement tv show ? Thst show is a joke. I got more skills than Eric G, easily.

No I’m not. I don’t doubt you have more skills than that guy.

 

[S33k3r]

No I’m not. I don’t doubt you have more skills than that guy.

My excuse is that I don't have time... But my mechanic reached it from underneath the engine bay, if I remember correctly.