2000-2006 exterior LED bulbs

[TowHoe]

Hi folks. I tried searching for the info I needed on this forum but couldn't find it, so here goes.
(Apologize in advance if I missed the appropriate posts.)
Stock 2003 Tahoe LT.

REAR LED BULBS
1) Can I replace the tail light, back up light, and turn signal bulbs without having to replace the license plate bulbs?
2) Is there a kit for all 3 of these bulbs together?
3) Ideally I would prefer not to use resistors or any other extra accessories.

FRONT LED BULBS
1) I'm only interested in replacing bulbs in the lower housings (DRL, turn, marker). Not sure if this is true for all 2003 Tahoes, but my lower housings have 3 light bulbs per side (L/R).
2) Do I have to replace all 3 bulbs in the housings so it doesn't affect other systems in the car, or can I just replace one bulb per housing? Turn signal bulb, for example.
3) Ideally I would prefer not to use resistors or any other extra accessories.

I would appreciate any make/model/# suggestions on either individual bulbs or bulb kits.

And lastly, a couple of tech questions. Supposedly LED bulbs do not burn as hot as incandescent bulbs, and some bulb sockets even show signs of excessive heat due to incandescent bulb use.
A) since the LED bulb base plugs into the socket, is the LED bulb base still going to dump a lot of heat into the socket? I've seen LED headlight bulbs with heat sinks, Cooling fins, and even auxiliary fan motors just to try and keep the bulb assembly cooler.
B) for this Automotive application, do LED bulbs consume less power than incandescent bulbs? Seems like most LED bulbs are brighter, so maybe they consume the same amount of power. Or more.

Thanks so much to everyone for possible feedback.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Did you use the key word 'LED' in your search, as there are numerous LED threads on this Forum that answer most of your questions.


REAR LED BULBS
1) Can I replace the tail light, back up light, and turn signal bulbs without having to replace the license plate bulbs? - Yes
2) Is there a kit for all 3 of these bulbs together? - You typically purchase LEDs individually by compatible part number, just like incandescent lights.
3) Ideally I would prefer not to use resistors or any other extra accessories. - Some model years require the use of resistors, while some do not. For example, my 07 has 100% LEDs inside and outside, and I have no dash warnings. I do have hyperflash on the directional lights, but that doesn't bother me.

FRONT LED BULBS
1) I'm only interested in replacing bulbs in the lower housings (DRL, turn, marker). Not sure if this is true for all 2003 Tahoes, but my lower housings have 3 light bulbs per side (L/R). - I'm not familiar with you model year's light configuration. @OR VietVet ?
2) Do I have to replace all 3 bulbs in the housings so it doesn't affect other systems in the car, or can I just replace one bulb per housing? Turn signal bulb, for example. - Yes, you can replace some and not others.
3) Ideally I would prefer not to use resistors or any other extra accessories. - Some model years require the use of resistors, while some do not.

I would appreciate any make/model/# suggestions on either individual bulbs or bulb kits.

And lastly, a couple of tech questions. Supposedly LED bulbs do not burn as hot as incandescent bulbs, and some bulb sockets even show signs of excessive heat due to incandescent bulb use.
A) since the LED bulb base plugs into the socket, is the LED bulb base still going to dump a lot of heat into the socket? I've seen LED headlight bulbs with heat sinks, Cooling fins, and even auxiliary fan motors just to try and keep the bulb assembly cooler. - LEDs, except for the headlights, generate very little heat, far less than incandescent lights. LED headlights do generate heat, and they have either active or passive cooling.
B) for this Automotive application, do LED bulbs consume less power than incandescent bulbs? Seems like most LED bulbs are brighter, so maybe they consume the same amount of power. Or more. - LEDs consume far less power than equivalent incandescent lights.

 

[TowHoe]

Thanks for the reply, but yes, I did use the term "LED" in my search and as I mentioned I did not find what I was looking for, hence this new thread.

I put my year make and model so that people with experience with this exact year make and model could address things like the resistor issue. No offense, but I'm only interested in answers to a 2003 model (2000-2006 generation), and what the 2007 needs or doesn't need isn't relevant. It's a completely different model generation.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer specific questions. Much appreciated.

 

[TowHoe]

According to my Owners Manual, all of my incandescent rear bulbs in the rear light housing are #3157 (marker/tail/stop, turn, backup).

Just found this (long, sorry) YouTube video comparing 6 different 3157 LED bulbs.

"Testing the Best 3156 / 3157 LED Brake Lights with PROOF!"

Doesn't say if any of the LEDs need a resistor, but lots of good info.

 

[OR VietVet]

Hi folks. I tried searching for the info I needed on this forum but couldn't find it, so here goes.
(Apologize in advance if I missed the appropriate posts.)
Stock 2003 Tahoe LT.

REAR LED BULBS
1) Can I replace the tail light, back up light, and turn signal bulbs without having to replace the license plate bulbs?
2) Is there a kit for all 3 of these bulbs together?
3) Ideally I would prefer not to use resistors or any other extra accessories.

FRONT LED BULBS
1) I'm only interested in replacing bulbs in the lower housings (DRL, turn, marker). Not sure if this is true for all 2003 Tahoes, but my lower housings have 3 light bulbs per side (L/R).
2) Do I have to replace all 3 bulbs in the housings so it doesn't affect other systems in the car, or can I just replace one bulb per housing? Turn signal bulb, for example.
3) Ideally I would prefer not to use resistors or any other extra accessories.

I would appreciate any make/model/# suggestions on either individual bulbs or bulb kits.

And lastly, a couple of tech questions. Supposedly LED bulbs do not burn as hot as incandescent bulbs, and some bulb sockets even show signs of excessive heat due to incandescent bulb use.
A) since the LED bulb base plugs into the socket, is the LED bulb base still going to dump a lot of heat into the socket? I've seen LED headlight bulbs with heat sinks, Cooling fins, and even auxiliary fan motors just to try and keep the bulb assembly cooler.
B) for this Automotive application, do LED bulbs consume less power than incandescent bulbs? Seems like most LED bulbs are brighter, so maybe they consume the same amount of power. Or more.

Thanks so much to everyone for possible feedback.

I see @Joseph Garcia mentioned me but I am a guy that likes clean stock looks. I personally would not mix the stock bulb with led in the same housing because time and time again I see problems with any kind of configuration of led bulb replacements, all at a time or a mix. But I also think that it depends on the mechanical/electrical mind of the person doing the work, the quality of the led kits and the ease of instructions that come with the kits. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[TowHoe]

Thanks for the reply. I too like the stock look and I have no intention of replacing either the front light housings or the rear housings.

It's just that sometimes the incandescent lights don't seem very bright so for brake light safety, turn signal visibility, and actually being able to see something with the backup lights when I'm backing up, I was hoping there was a plug-and-play LED option that would just brighten up the stock housing light output.

But in the spirit of keeping things stock, other than the bulbs themselves I really don't want to get into adding resistors and replacing relays to compensate for hyper blinking.

 

[OR VietVet]

I faced the "dimmer look" problem too and that was because of age of the plastic housings. I ordered and installed all new Genuine GM housings and they all came with new bulbs. It literally was a "plug and play" fix. Now they are all still stock looking and bright as hell. You can attempt the polish of the old housings but that never works well. The led kits or just bulb replacement may well be less expensive but me being a "thousandaire" affords me the ability to fix the way I please. These NBS rigs are the best built models, IMO, and I plan to keep it in perfect shape. I was gonna sell recently but members here said I was asking too much. If anyone looks at my build thread they can see what I have done and why I place a value on it. Doesn't mattter to this thread though.

 

[TowHoe]

I replaced both rear housing assemblies recently with brand new ones and yes, they also came with new bulbs.
Still looks dingy though. Just the nature of the beast when it comes to incandescent.

 

[OR VietVet]

I replaced both rear housing assemblies recently with brand new ones and yes, they also came with new bulbs.
Still looks dingy though. Just the nature of the beast when it comes to incandescent.

I did my research and even compared new housings from aftermarket manufacturers and Genuine GM OE, side to side, and IMO there was a noticeable difference to them. The led will be brighter and will not put off as much heat but I also know that if away from home, I can get a replacement bulb in way more places than I can get an aftermarket led, if needed and I would bet the resistors needed, if any, are not on the shelves at every place too, but I could be wrong. These NBS rigs are solid and that is why I stick with what I know works and is easy to diagnose if need be.

 

[MassHoe04]

On my 04...
I put LED in DRL and the PO put LED in the outer corner turn indicator.
I switched the DRL to LED because the bulb burnt out and the socket looked like the heat was getting to it.
The watts for the LED were almost nothing compared to the original incandescent bulb, so I figured I could put the LED in there and keep the sockets from melting.

THE DRL and the corner indicator work great with the stock yellow incandescent turn signal bulb in the middle slot. A PO may have already put a resistor in the turn signal circuit. Not sure, But, the I don't have any hyper-flash.

A lot of current LED bulbs have the resistor already built in to prevent hyper-flash. I would say stay away from the very cheapest ones you can find... I hear Auxito is one of those reputable brands for LED replacement bulbs. Pretty good quality from what I have seen others post ion them.

 

[Fless]

Along with @HiHoeSilver I installed the LEDs in the thread below in my 2004's DRLs and reverse lights. They work great with no issues, but note that the color temperature is rather high and they display much whiter than the incandescent bulbs.

Pete's (Now Nate's) 2003 Denali Budget Build thread

Swapped the chmsl. Pete did a cool thing with painting it (see pic), but that little bit of red up there just wasn't right to me. Used the same brand I used on the Hoe, but went with the black housing / smoked lens this time. For Chevy Tahoe/Suburban/GMC...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[BigDogYJ]

I’ve been through this a time or two on these gmt800 trucks. Drl can be switched without issues as has been stated. Turn signals will hyperflash when the resistance gets too low by swapping out incandescent for led. You can resolve this by replacing the stock flasher relay for one designed for led. I believe it’s the stock relay from 2007+.

https://www.amazon.com/2003-2006-Chevrolet-Silverado-Signal-Flasher/dp/B00KQV1HWI

As for the rear tail/brake lights, i have not been able to find a proper resistored led to swap in. So cruise control will not work properly and the brake light switch will start to act up where the brake lights will not light up 100% off the time you push the brake pedal - dangerous safety issue. The only successful way I’ve been able to make the tail/brake light leds with ID with an external inline resistor (be sure to attach to metal as they generate a lot of heat). As for changing out individuals and part numbers, I’ll leave that to the others who already posted.
Just my $.02.

 

[Rocket Man]

I’ve been through this a time or two on these gmt800 trucks. Drl can be switched without issues as has been stated. Turn signals will hyperflash when the resistance gets too low by swapping out incandescent for led. You can resolve this by replacing the stock flasher relay for one designed for led. I believe it’s the stock relay from 2007+.

https://www.amazon.com/2003-2006-Chevrolet-Silverado-Signal-Flasher/dp/B00KQV1HWI

As for the rear tail/brake lights, i have not been able to find a proper resistored led to swap in. So cruise control will not work properly and the brake light switch will start to act up where the brake lights will not light up 100% off the time you push the brake pedal - dangerous safety issue. The only successful way I’ve been able to make the tail/brake light leds with ID with an external inline resistor (be sure to attach to metal as they generate a lot of heat). As for changing out individuals and part numbers, I’ll leave that to the others who already posted.
Just my $.02.

This pretty much covers it right here.^^^
The hyper flash and cruise control issues are well documented here. The issue with the main brake lights isn’t mentioned much but I had that issue after swapping in FRONT led turn signal bulbs- all my other bulbs had bern replaced with zero issues, and the rear housings were Spyder LED housings. Then one day I was driving and somebody pulled beside me and said only my third brake light was working. I swapped regular bulbs back in the front turns, brake lights worked again. I ended up adding load resistors to the front bulbs in the park light circuit. It seems the brake lights and park lights are the same circuit, I believe the brake light circuit adds current or voltage to the park light circuit in the rear. That’s how they get a 2- filament bulb to work for both turn, park, and brake light circuits. Sorry for the long post but this one had me scratching my head for awhile.

 

[MassHoe04]

PO had already installed small LEDs on my front corner signals. I haven't dug in to see what the did for adding resistors or changing relays, but the front corners light up and alternate with the front turn signals (which are still yellow incandescent bulbs), as they should. I am not in any rush to wasp out rear tail light assemblies for LED just yet. I need a radio upgrade to get hands-free/bluetooth and new tires in spring. Some things have higher priorities and radio is one of them!

 

[Scott in AZ]

LED tail light aka stop light will disable your cruise control. I have a thread up on this. Any flashing bulb will also do wacky stuff if you switch to LED, hyperflash. I use basic incandescent for everything except hi and lo bean headlight, reverse backup light, and center high stop light.