1999 Tahoe (old style) power door lock problem

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

rbritton72

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jul 31, 2011
Posts
1
Reaction score
0
I'm having the same problem as well. When I press on the lock button the two back doors lock but the two front doors wont. I took off the driver door panel and looked at the actuator for the locks when I pressed it and it was kinda half ass working.... I pressed down on the rod that was connected to the actuator and it worked better but I can't just take off the panel every time I want to use the lock button. I can push down on the lock itself but it gets annoying when I have to manually lock everything up every time I want to lock it up.

Do you think it could be a wiring problem since it is both the front doors? what else could it be?

I have the same exact problem...so i tried the passenger switch thinking I had a bad switch...well turns out its the driver side switch in the door...That is the main switch so if u change it out to a new one it should solve everyones problems..
 

slinky18

TYF Newbie
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Posts
6
Reaction score
0
I have a little bit different of a problem with the power locks on my 99 Yukon. When they car has been sitting for a while with no activity the power locks work fine. Whether it be using the switch on the door or the key fob. However, if the locks are locked and unlocked more than a couple times the front two doors as well as the very back door quit locking and unlocking. The front two door locks will move slightly up or down depending on whether they are trying to lock or unlock. After letting them rest for a while (haven't tested any closer together than a couple hours) the locks will work fine again for one to three unlock cycles before stopping again.

Is this a sign that the actuators are going out or is there something else this could be?
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
if all three are doing the exact same thing then i would be concerned with the control relay first before replacing the actuators. it is possible the contacts of the relay are breaking down a bit.
 

slinky18

TYF Newbie
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Posts
6
Reaction score
0
Just to be clear. The front driver and passenger doors are doing as I described as well as the very back door. The rear driver and passenger side doors are working fine. Just wanted to make sure this being a 4 door and not a 2 door wouldn't change a possible diagnosis.

Thanks again for all the info.
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
well you failed to mention it was a four door before. in that case replace your actuators and while in there clean and lube the latch and handle parts. they are probably gonna need it as well.
 

slinky18

TYF Newbie
Joined
Apr 26, 2013
Posts
6
Reaction score
0
Yeah I realized I didn't make that clear when I reread my post. Could you recommend a place to get the actuators from online? Should I get aftermarket or OEM? Also, are there any web sites that have diagrams and all for this repair/replacement? You may be able to tell that I am a novice when it comes to automotive repairs.
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
gm 22062740 for rear barn door setup.
gm 22071946 for left front door.
gm 22071946 for right front door.
gm 11561257 pop rivets. two will be needed to do the barn door unit. and a big pop riveter.
unsure about the fronts but you will see.
buy these gm/acdelco parts. DO NOT BUY DORMAN OR SIMILAR BRANDS. OEM ONLY ON THESE PARTS.

---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:19 PM ----------

Door Lock Schematics: PWR ACCY Circuit Breaker, Door Lock Relay, Cargo Door Contactors, Door Lock Motors, G202
79103941


---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:29 PM ----------

Door Lock Schematics: CIG LTR Fuse, Door Lock Control Module, Rear Door Jamb Switch, Rear Door Lock Switch, G400
79103940


---------- Post added at 04:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:29 PM ----------

Service and Repair
91449354




Removal Procedure


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the door trim panel. See: Doors, Hood and Trunk\Doors
  3. Remove the door water deflector.
  4. Remove the door lock actuator.
  5. Disconnect the electrical connector.
Installation Procedure



  1. Connect the electrical connector.
  2. Install the door lock actuator.
  3. Install the door water deflector.
  4. Install the door trim panel.
  5. Connect the negative battery cable.
 

ChoochCharlie

TYF Newbie
Joined
May 6, 2012
Posts
6
Reaction score
0
I'm working on the same kind of issue with my Suburban.
My wife calls it the Mystery Door. Which door won't be locked when they come back to the truck. Usually the right rear, but not always.

I did find I have a short in the wiring to the drivers door. The lock button does nothing until the door is almost closed. I also don't have power to the speaker in that door.

In the past, on another vehicle I found my power window and door lock issue was a lack of solid ground connections. I went around and cleaned the connections and replaced some worn ground straps and the problem was solved.
 

Equipotentiality

TYF Newbie
Joined
May 26, 2010
Posts
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Washington
Door Panel Removal

Can someone provide pictures or link to a thread with pictures of a door panel removal? I have a 99 LS 4 door. Thanks.
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
Side Front Door Trim Panel Replacement Removal Procedure


79102728




Tool Required:
J 38778 Trim Panel Remover


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the door handle bezel.
  3. Remove the window regulator handle, as necessary.
  4. Disconnect the power accessory switch mounting panel wiring connector, as necessary.
  5. Remove the trim panel upper extension.
  6. Using a flat blade tool, carefully pry off the trim panel armrest screw cover in order to access the screw.
  7. Remove the trim panel armrest screw.
  8. Using the J 38778, carefully pry the retainer from the retainer seats.
  9. Disconnect the courtesy light connector, if necessary.
  10. Remove the trim panel from the door.
  11. Remove the courtesy lamp lens or the reflector.

79122396




  1. Pull the retainers from the slot in the trim panel.
  2. Remove the retainers.
Installation Procedure



  1. Push the retainer from the slot.
  2. Install the retainers to the trim panel.
  3. Install the courtesy lamp lens or the reflector.
  4. Align the retainers with the holes in the door.
  5. Install the trim panel to the door by carefully applying pressure in order to seat the retainers.
  6. Install the window regulator handle, as necessary.
  7. Install the power accessory switch mounting panel, as necessary.
  8. Install the trim panel armrest screw.
Tighten
Tighten the trim panel armrest screw to 2 N.m (18 lb in) .



  1. Insert the screw cover.
  2. Install the trim panel upper extension.
  3. Install the door handle bezel.
  4. Connect the negative battery cable.
 

philontacos

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Posts
3
Reaction score
0
2001 Tahoe Power Locks

Hoping someone could help me with a similar power lock problem i'm having with my 2001 Tahoe 5.3L LS WD.

All my power locks craped out at the same time. Fob and switches both didn't work, but I can hear the relays clicking. I checked to fuses and had to replace 1 fuse. Now the drivers side door attempts to lock and unlock, but it doesn't have enough power to do so. All other door locks don't move at all. I can hear the relay clicking when i press the FOB, dside and pside switches.

Any idea what to do next? I am going to remove the pannels and clean the actuators, but I assume it's an electrical problem if all failed at once.
 

95TahoePA

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Posts
86
Reaction score
0
Location
Langhorne Area, PA
I'm working on the same kind of issue with my Suburban.
My wife calls it the Mystery Door. Which door won't be locked when they come back to the truck. Usually the right rear, but not always.

I did find I have a short in the wiring to the drivers door. The lock button does nothing until the door is almost closed. I also don't have power to the speaker in that door.

In the past, on another vehicle I found my power window and door lock issue was a lack of solid ground connections. I went around and cleaned the connections and replaced some worn ground straps and the problem was solved.
sounds like wires between the cab and the door are broken to me.
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
Hoping someone could help me with a similar power lock problem i'm having with my 2001 Tahoe 5.3L LS WD.

All my power locks craped out at the same time. Fob and switches both didn't work, but I can hear the relays clicking. I checked to fuses and had to replace 1 fuse. Now the drivers side door attempts to lock and unlock, but it doesn't have enough power to do so. All other door locks don't move at all. I can hear the relay clicking when i press the FOB, dside and pside switches.

Any idea what to do next? I am going to remove the pannels and clean the actuators, but I assume it's an electrical problem if all failed at once.

Exact fuse you replaced please?
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
Should be a lock #22 and unlock #25 fuse on the same block. Both are 15 amps and feed the actuator power thru the relays. Are those okay? Give them a wiggle for any loose or dirty connection.
 

philontacos

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Posts
3
Reaction score
0
Should be a lock #22 and unlock #25 fuse on the same block. Both are 15 amps and feed the actuator power thru the relays. Are those okay? Give them a wiggle for any loose or dirty connection.

the exact fuse is the 20amp fuse labeled DR LOCK in the user manual. The fuse labeled UNLOCK is 15amp, but appears to be fine. I removed all of the fuses I thought could be associated with this and clean the contacts if they appear to be ok and put them back. I wiggled the wire harness between the door and the cab, but no change. I removed the door locks switch from the drivers door and didn't notice any damaged wires. I cleaned the contacts and reinstalled, but not change.

No sure where to go from here...
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
Measure the voltage from the unlock/lock fuses and measure again at the door actuator when pressing a button for the locks. If it is about the same replace the actuator. If the voltage is really off you have an electric fault somewhere.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
137,734
Posts
1,990,799
Members
102,722
Latest member
AdrienR
Back
Top