You may or may not; you may also see converter clutch material or you may not...All depends on the specific nature and severity of the failure.
10L80 - filled transmission at wrong temp???
- Thread starter jyi786
- Start date
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Thanks.
I've decided to bite the bullet and go with a new transmission. Question is, should I just get the new transmission from GM? Or should I get it rebuilt? I get the feeling that I still don't 100% trust the rebuilt one because the guy stated that this would only be the second that he's built.
I think GM gives a 3 yr, 36,000 mile warranty for all their powertrain parts and there aren't many builders that have significant reps on these transmissions since they're so new. Given that, I'd just go with a GM reman. You can prob source an upgraded converter from either a local converter builder who may install one or more upgraded parts or one of the more nationally recognized companies like Circle D or Yank. Unfortunately, I would have no idea what it would cost with either option...Or you can buy a GM converter but not sure for how long it will hold up...Seems as though the last three transmissions (6,8,10 speeds) have converter issues to one extent or another...
Yes, I just confirmed with the dealer: it's a 3 year, 100,000 mile warranty for a brand new transmission, which covers parts and labor. The other 3rd party transmission place, they only do 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty, and I risk it since as I stated before, the guy has only rebuilt once.
The $12k figure from the dealer includes everything, labor as well. I think for the price RIGHT NOW, I might not be able to get better than that, so I'm going to have to go for it.
I'll keep you all posted. Thanks so much as always for all the help and direction!
Yep 3 year/100k - got my warranty coverages mixed up, lol...I think that is your best option whereas if you had a 6L80 or even 8-speed, there is plenty of builders versed with those transmissions, tons of aftermarket support for parts and such so you have options...And that will be true of the 10-speeds in a few years but right now, as far as I know anyways, a GM reman is your best bet if you're needing a new 10-speed auto...
BlaineBug
Full Access Member
The torque converter was $2,700? I remember back in 2009 I believe it was buying a remanufactured torque converter to put behind a Ford 4.6. It was only a few hundred if that!
No one is hiding anymore the fact that they are blatantly price gouging in your face. Stupid wars, pandemic, strikes, bad weather, blame it on anything and everything to justify a transmission being $12k.
Got my truck back from the other mechanic's shop. The plan still is definitely to replace the transmission.
HOWEVER, when I drove the truck home, I decided to do something that is specified in a document that I sent to @NickTransmissions in an earlier part of this thread.
The idea is to to put the truck in Manual L9, which turns off AFM/DFM. It does for sure with the newer models, not sure about 2019, but it was worth a shot. According to this document, if there is shudder present in Drive "D", but not in Manual L9, it's the valve body.
It could be placebo effect, but I wasn't able to replicate any hard shifting or TCC shudder with the transmission in L9, but that could be due to the transmission fluid temp being 147+. I'm letting the vehicle cool down again, and once I get the transmission in the 50 degree range, I'm going to go out and test ONE MORE TIME. Any shifting or hard shudder, I'm replacing the transmission, but if I'm not able to replicate any bad behavior, it might be worth it just changing the valve body.
HOWEVER, when I drove the truck home, I decided to do something that is specified in a document that I sent to @NickTransmissions in an earlier part of this thread.
The idea is to to put the truck in Manual L9, which turns off AFM/DFM. It does for sure with the newer models, not sure about 2019, but it was worth a shot. According to this document, if there is shudder present in Drive "D", but not in Manual L9, it's the valve body.
It could be placebo effect, but I wasn't able to replicate any hard shifting or TCC shudder with the transmission in L9, but that could be due to the transmission fluid temp being 147+. I'm letting the vehicle cool down again, and once I get the transmission in the 50 degree range, I'm going to go out and test ONE MORE TIME. Any shifting or hard shudder, I'm replacing the transmission, but if I'm not able to replicate any bad behavior, it might be worth it just changing the valve body.
Let the trans shop you talked to last diagnose it following the correct procedures.
Valve body may be the underlying cause but damage to the TCC may have already been done. If the converter damaged the trans in anyway, it's coming out for replacement. Trans shop will drop the pan and have a look at the bottom to see any evidence of pump damage...What typically happens is the converter internals being to break up, get sent into the pump at high speed, rapidly degrading the working surfaces. This will show up as lots of fine aluminum colored matter on the bottom of the pan and in the filter.
Let us know what they say once you have their report...
BlaineBug
Full Access Member
Everything inflated except salaries and wages. In fact I read an "article" the other day that blamed inflation on wages and demanded that they were too high, if you can even comprehend that level of PRAVDA propaganda,
They gave me their "report" already, which was completely worthless, unfortunately. Here's what it says.
Seemed after they got my vehicle in, the turned their nose and just dealt with me as another number. I spoke to the tech yesterday, and he told me outright that he would *not* drop the pan unless he was going to rebuild the transmission, which is $11k to start with, and then he would drop the price as needed if/when he found things he could reuse. His "diagnostic" told me nothing that I didn't already know.
If I'm going to pay someone $11k to simply drop the pan for an inspection (which I can do myself) and to conduct a real diagnostic, I'll just pay an extra $1k and get an entirely new transmission. I just can't believe how inept/incompetent folks are these days. It's basically pick-your-poison: either you deal with a money grubbing shop who doesn't really care and immediately tells you to rebuild the transmission, or the stealership who doesn't know anything and defaults to just throwing parts at it to see what sticks.
Sorry, I didn't see your post with that update (still don't).
While that sucks, you know how the old saying goes, "If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself" and you alluded to as much above.
Here's what I would do if I were you AND you plan on keeping the truck for the foreseeable future:
- Purchase a bi-directional scan tool - you cannot be DYI on modern, later model vehicles and not have one
- Purchase the Sonnax vacuum test machine and a small air pump - you'll need the air pump to work with the tester
- Purchase a DVOM with a set of probes, if you don't already have one
- Purchase the ATSG manual for the GM 10L transmission
Then read up on how the 10L works, what can go wrong and how to diagnose faults with the solenoids, valve body, spacer plate, channel plate, torque converter etc. Then take the vehicle on a test drive with your scan tool plugged in, showing live transmission and TCC data streams so you have an overall well-rounded picture of what's going on.
Once you confirm it's the TCC slipping, you can drop the pan and do a visual inspection of what's at the bottom...If you see a whole bunch of burnt material or piles of fine aluminum or brass-colored matter, you can stop your diagnosis, put the pan back on with a few bolts and yank the trans and converter for replacement. If what's in the pan is largely unremarkable, proceed to dropping the valve body and solenoids and performing your testing...If you find the TCC valves are worn, purchase the Sonnax replacement valve kits and install. If your DVOM shows a bad TCC solenoid and/or you have a DTC pointing to that solenoid, replace it.
Assuming no other clutch circuits show as worn on the tester, put the valve body back together and reinstall it, fill with fluid following correct procedures, perform any fast adapt relearn as required then take it for a test drive. Hopefully you can get away with fixing it by doing the above as it will be a lot less costly for you then having to replace the valve body or the entire transmission/TC.
Let us know what happens or if you have additional questions...
What is a good bi-directional scan tool for this vehicle? I've asked in a number of places, haven't gotten a solid recommendation.
Since it's so new, you may consider just purchasing a subscription to GMs online diagnostic module(s) - you can view costs and other info here.
If you have multiple vehicles of different manufacturers, all late model, then you may consider a Snap-On Zues or equivalent Autel (there may be others but those are the most common).
I say 'do it' if you can swing it...While expensive but it removes the transmission from being a source of stress for you during the next three years...You could replace the VB and TC in your current one only to have the transmission itself crap the bed in 6 months due to damage already sustained and be paying for everything all over again, anyways. Addressing it now ensures it gets done on your time table vs having the thing strand you somewhere...
Agreed.
Order placed for new transmission. Waiting game begins now for it to come in and then get it installed.
Thanks so much everyone. I'll keep you all posted on how it goes!
BlaineBug
Full Access Member
Autel seems to be one of the best budget friendly brands, also have seen good things about TopDon.
BlaineBug
Full Access Member
Apples to oranges but a small independent transmission shop I visited yesterday was quoting $4,200 for a remanufactured Ford 6R80 and $1,485 to remove and replace. Plus fluid, reprogramming, etc.
Yep, I saw the same thing with this whole debacle. 6-speed and 8-speed transmissions were selling for about half the price.
The odd thing I did discover is that most of the 10x80 (x because it's any 10-speed) failures I've read and heard about were the 10R80, which is exactly the same, or 95% the same as the 10L80. I've only ever read about a handful of the GM transmissions ever failing. My dealership never even serviced a 10L80 until now.
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