10L80 - filled transmission at wrong temp???

[NickTransmissions]

@NickTransmissions, if the clutch pack in the TC was actually going bad, would/should I expect to find metal shavings in the pan on the magnet?

You may or may not; you may also see converter clutch material or you may not...All depends on the specific nature and severity of the failure.

 

[jyi786]

You may or may not; you may also see converter clutch material or you may not...All depends on the specific nature and severity of the failure.

Thanks.

I've decided to bite the bullet and go with a new transmission. Question is, should I just get the new transmission from GM? Or should I get it rebuilt? I get the feeling that I still don't 100% trust the rebuilt one because the guy stated that this would only be the second that he's built.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Thanks.

I've decided to bite the bullet and go with a new transmission. Question is, should I just get the new transmission from GM? Or should I get it rebuilt? I get the feeling that I still don't 100% trust the rebuilt one because the guy stated that this would only be the second that he's built.

I think GM gives a 3 yr, 36,000 mile warranty for all their powertrain parts and there aren't many builders that have significant reps on these transmissions since they're so new. Given that, I'd just go with a GM reman. You can prob source an upgraded converter from either a local converter builder who may install one or more upgraded parts or one of the more nationally recognized companies like Circle D or Yank. Unfortunately, I would have no idea what it would cost with either option...Or you can buy a GM converter but not sure for how long it will hold up...Seems as though the last three transmissions (6,8,10 speeds) have converter issues to one extent or another...

 

[jyi786]

I think GM gives a 3 yr, 36,000 mile warranty for all their powertrain parts and there aren't many builders that have significant reps on these transmissions since they're so new. Given that, I'd just go with a GM reman. You can prob source an upgraded converter from either a local converter builder who may install one or more upgraded parts or one of the more nationally recognized companies like Circle D or Yank. Unfortunately, I would have no idea what it would cost with either option...Or you can buy a GM converter but not sure for how long it will hold up...Seems as though the last three transmissions (6,8,10 speeds) have converter issues to one extent or another...

Yes, I just confirmed with the dealer: it's a 3 year, 100,000 mile warranty for a brand new transmission, which covers parts and labor. The other 3rd party transmission place, they only do 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty, and I risk it since as I stated before, the guy has only rebuilt once.

The $12k figure from the dealer includes everything, labor as well. I think for the price RIGHT NOW, I might not be able to get better than that, so I'm going to have to go for it.

I'll keep you all posted. Thanks so much as always for all the help and direction!

 

[NickTransmissions]

Yes, I just confirmed with the dealer: it's a 3 year, 100,000 mile warranty for a brand new transmission, which covers parts and labor. The other 3rd party transmission place, they only do 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty, and I risk it since as I stated before, the guy has only rebuilt once.

The $12k figure from the dealer includes everything, labor as well. I think for the price RIGHT NOW, I might not be able to get better than that, so I'm going to have to go for it.

I'll keep you all posted. Thanks so much as always for all the help and direction!

Yep 3 year/100k - got my warranty coverages mixed up, lol...I think that is your best option whereas if you had a 6L80 or even 8-speed, there is plenty of builders versed with those transmissions, tons of aftermarket support for parts and such so you have options...And that will be true of the 10-speeds in a few years but right now, as far as I know anyways, a GM reman is your best bet if you're needing a new 10-speed auto...

 

[BlaineBug]

They got back to me again, and spoke to the tech. Once again, no details given. He stated that the only way to actually determine what is wrong with the transmission, is to take it apart. At that point, he would only do a rebuild, and would determine what is actually bad, so it would be less than $11k, but that is the figure he gives to start with.

I still feel it is inflated, and I am nowhere past where the dealer was with respect to actual diagnostics. I've checked around, and everywhere is priced ridiculously, or don't know this transmission well enough to even want to service it.

I have no good options now. Some advice or help would be great.

1. Pay $4k each way to have my truck shipped and have @NickTransmissions take a stab at it. Be without my truck for a very long time. $8k + parts.
2. Pay $2300 for VB, $2700 for TC if that doesn't work, and still might not fix the issue. This is the dealer.
3. Pay $11k for transmission rebuild. 3rd party.
4. Pay $12k for a new, factory transmission. Dealer.

The sad thing is that the most attractive option is to throw a valve body at it and see if it fixes the problem. $450 (after core return), fluid and a new filter.

The torque converter was $2,700? I remember back in 2009 I believe it was buying a remanufactured torque converter to put behind a Ford 4.6. It was only a few hundred if that!

 

[jyi786]

The torque converter was $2,700? I remember back in 2009 I believe it was buying a remanufactured torque converter to put behind a Ford 4.6. It was only a few hundred if that!

No one is hiding anymore the fact that they are blatantly price gouging in your face. Stupid wars, pandemic, strikes, bad weather, blame it on anything and everything to justify a transmission being $12k.

 

[jyi786]

Got my truck back from the other mechanic's shop. The plan still is definitely to replace the transmission.

HOWEVER, when I drove the truck home, I decided to do something that is specified in a document that I sent to @NickTransmissions in an earlier part of this thread.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10209923-0001.pdf

The idea is to to put the truck in Manual L9, which turns off AFM/DFM. It does for sure with the newer models, not sure about 2019, but it was worth a shot. According to this document, if there is shudder present in Drive "D", but not in Manual L9, it's the valve body.

4. TCC Pressure
• Shudder condition is present in Drive “D” but NOT
present in Manual “L9”
• Throttle would typically be less than 10% and
engine torque less than 100 Nm
• TCC slip speed will be 0 or near 0
• TCC pressure command will remain at 100 kPa
The valve body should be replaced.

It could be placebo effect, but I wasn't able to replicate any hard shifting or TCC shudder with the transmission in L9, but that could be due to the transmission fluid temp being 147+. I'm letting the vehicle cool down again, and once I get the transmission in the 50 degree range, I'm going to go out and test ONE MORE TIME. Any shifting or hard shudder, I'm replacing the transmission, but if I'm not able to replicate any bad behavior, it might be worth it just changing the valve body.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Got my truck back from the other mechanic's shop. The plan still is definitely to replace the transmission.

HOWEVER, when I drove the truck home, I decided to do something that is specified in a document that I sent to @NickTransmissions in an earlier part of this thread.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10209923-0001.pdf

The idea is to to put the truck in Manual L9, which turns off AFM/DFM. It does for sure with the newer models, not sure about 2019, but it was worth a shot. According to this document, if there is shudder present in Drive "D", but not in Manual L9, it's the valve body.



It could be placebo effect, but I wasn't able to replicate any hard shifting or TCC shudder with the transmission in L9, but that could be due to the transmission fluid temp being 147+. I'm letting the vehicle cool down again, and once I get the transmission in the 50 degree range, I'm going to go out and test ONE MORE TIME. Any shifting or hard shudder, I'm replacing the transmission, but if I'm not able to replicate any bad behavior, it might be worth it just changing the valve body.

Let the trans shop you talked to last diagnose it following the correct procedures.

Valve body may be the underlying cause but damage to the TCC may have already been done. If the converter damaged the trans in anyway, it's coming out for replacement. Trans shop will drop the pan and have a look at the bottom to see any evidence of pump damage...What typically happens is the converter internals being to break up, get sent into the pump at high speed, rapidly degrading the working surfaces. This will show up as lots of fine aluminum colored matter on the bottom of the pan and in the filter.

Let us know what they say once you have their report...

 

[BlaineBug]

No one is hiding anymore the fact that they are blatantly price gouging in your face. Stupid wars, pandemic, strikes, bad weather, blame it on anything and everything to justify a transmission being $12k.

Everything inflated except salaries and wages. In fact I read an "article" the other day that blamed inflation on wages and demanded that they were too high, if you can even comprehend that level of PRAVDA propaganda,