02 Suburban Rear Jacking

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JPVortex

JPVortex

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You are correct, that the weight shifts forward when you lift the rear.
Now, for the reason I said what I said about the blocks.
The weight can be predictable when you are on completely flat ground and if there is no shifting weight inside the vehicle. I have no answer to these concerns because I am not there. Plus, your safety choices are suspect especially because of your floor jack choice.

Now, the other concern. When the vehicle is in the air the weight is shifted forward and front blocks are good. Now, when you then lower the vehicle with an unsafe floor jack and suspect ground level, the weight shifts as it lowers and the blocks behind front tires will hold the vehicle from moving and AGAIN creating an unsafe condition.

I am now done. You do You. Take all the chances you want. Good luck.
Thank you, I appreciate the concern. I try to be as safe as possible. Everytime a wheel is off it goes right under the frame rail in case of complete jack stand failure. I always try to make sure that there’s blocks in the most prevent direction where it could move, because the area it’s at is pretty level, and the vehicles don’t roll when bringing them back down off a jack. but as someone at my house living with my father in a family where no one is mechanically inclined, sometimes some of the small safety stuff like that slips my mind, I guess you could say I’m a backyard mechanic. Also the fact that any tools that I need I have to buy, and they’re not cheap and didn’t have any growing up, so I’m now building my assortment, so yeah there will be some stuff I’m missing, like proper wheel chocks(right now I use nice big pieces of wood or even spare donut tires from a car I previously owned, the rubber from the tire does a great job at holding it to the ground securely).

Totally understand what you mean about the jack pad, and I will be getting a new jack soon or potentially trying to repair the threads for it, because I still have the pad in my shed. I have a smaller jack(that still has a good pad lol) that I use for the rest of the cars in the family, but sadly it’s not tall enough for the big suburban.

I really appreciate your concern. There is some good advice I’ve gotten here for safety and also for lifting up the truck. Have a good night
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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You are correct, that the weight shifts forward when you lift the rear.
Now, for the reason I said what I said about the blocks.
The weight can be predictable when you are on completely flat ground and if there is no shifting weight inside the vehicle. I have no answer to these concerns because I am not there. Plus, your safety choices are suspect especially because of your floor jack choice.

Now, the other concern. When the vehicle is in the air the weight is shifted forward and front blocks are good. Now, when you then lower the vehicle with an unsafe floor jack and suspect ground level, the weight shifts as it lowers and the blocks behind front tires will hold the vehicle from moving and AGAIN creating an unsafe condition.

I am now done. You do You. Take all the chances you want. Good luck.
Is this what you meant last night? You
IMG_5252.jpeg
can see the sway bar is in the way but it’s right directly below the mounts which are attached to the rear axle.
 
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JPVortex

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Ok I got it securely put on jackstands on the frame. I backed the truck into a different spot in my driveway and the jack actually rolled a little bit(i checked the casters and they all move fine). The jackstands still gave a little tilt when they first came down but they straightened out and are totally solid now.

Additionally I have taken big cinder blocks and am using them as rear wheel chocks. Now just need to do something about the janky jack!
 

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Is this what you meant last night? You View attachment 456268can see the sway bar is in the way but it’s right directly below the mounts which are attached to the rear axle.
As long as the section of sway bar is directly under the axle tube. If the sway bar bushing bracket is wide enough, you could even set the curved section of the bracket down in to the curved part of the stand saddle.

I can see the sway bar itself, curving away from under the axle tube. If there is enough exposed axle tube, set the stand under the axle tube and let the axle tube down in to the curved part of the stand saddle.
 
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JPVortex

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thanks! There sadly wasn’t enough axle tube space, but putting the jack stand on the sway bar where it is in the picture would be okay? The axle tube is literally right above it. And good to know about the bushing brackets, would make sense, as they’re attached to the axle.
As long as the section of sway bar is directly under the axle tube. If the sway bar bushing bracket is wide enough, you could even set the curved section of the bracket down in to the curved part of the stand saddle.

I can see the sway bar itself, curving away from under the axle tube. If there is enough exposed axle tube, set the stand under the axle tube and let the axle tube down in to the curved part of the stand saddle.
 
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Set the sway bar right down on the stand, again, as long as the axle tube is directly above the bar.

GET A BETTER FLOOR JACK!
Perfect, I appreciate all the help and currently researching on which jack I want to go with for a higher lift on an SUV. Got any recommendations?
 

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Get a Daytona 3 ton jack. Model #DJ3000. It is made in the same factory, right alongside the Snap On FJ300 3 ton floor jack.

Daytona=$300

Snap On=$1000

 

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JPVortex

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You can also get a less expensive jack and go to 911 Motorsports and check out the jack pad extensions they have. I have both of these. I like to get either end of the vehicle up on these ramps and then can see all the spots to set the jack pad at.

https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11...=B0117EESNC&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_14_t&th=1


Great, thank you so much! You're a great help. I think I'll go the Daytona route, they seem like very solid jacks.
 
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