2010 Tahoe LTZ electrical saga, need some input... - SOLVED

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Our 2010 Tahoe LTZ has been an absolute beast since we bought it at roughly 125k; it's got 188k now and I've kept it in pretty solid condition the whole time in spite of heavy usage...and have avoided a lot of the typical problems with these things. Thing still easily books for 10k in my area and I'm not in a position to buy another car, so in no way do I want to give up on it over anything minor.

But we're currently involved in an electrical saga that has us at our wits' end, and I'm not sure how to approach things.

So every roughly 400 miles (or maybe 40-50 hrs runtime) it'll go into limp mode, primary code is the top-level U0100 (lost comms with PCM) with a zillion system codes behind it, many unrelated to each other. It'll start up and be just fine in 15-20 minutes...until it does it again at roughly the same interval.

It has since been in and out of two shops (including an automotive electronics specialist) for over a month and no one can seem to figure it out. But I really suspect they're being lazy with diag, and more importantly, I think we're starting to get kicked to the back burner.

-I did some initial surveying of the major grounds, harnesses, and wiring, and didn't come up with anything and didn't really have the time, so I took it to our primary mech.

-They initially cleaned up a couple of grounds (they didn't specify, but I'm assuming the two main BCM grounds [seat and fender], which I had already looked at) and sent it back to us. That didn't do the trick.

-I then replaced the battery after the next incident, as the battery was near end of life and I was getting ready to do it anyway as preemptive maintenance. They had also suggested this would be the next step if the grounds weren't the issue, and that correlated with a lot of what I'd read on here. But that didn't do the trick.

-Took it back to them; after consulting with the electrical shop, they decided to swap out the main engine fuse box with a used one....which not only didn't solve the issue, but temporarily caused all sorts of other little issues (no turn signal, etc.) because the used one had all sorts of corrosion on the fuses. Lol. Anyway, fixed the new unrelated issues, original problem recurs, back to the shop it goes...where it has now been sitting (untouched) for another week.

I'm frustrated because while I'm not an idiot, I don't have a proper scan tool (just a cheap code reader and for some reason it can't get past the U0100 code...only reason I know about the other codes is the shop told me) and don't have the knowledge/experience these guys have. But also, the only other alternative is our actual GM dealership, which has a terrible and declining reputation and I'm afraid they're just gonna start firing the parts cannon at it too, potentially just going through and replacing hundreds/thousands of dollars worth of modules without actually taking the time to diag properly. So I'm not sure where else to go or what to do.

This is our primary vehicle and long story short, being without it has been both expensive and stressful as hell. But I'm nervous about trying to take things into my own hands. Besides tracing all the wiring myself, I don't really have any other ideas except for maybe the Battery Redistribution block or the BCM (or even the computer) itself...but neither shop seems to think they're the issue (and I have no idea if they've tested them).

Any ideas, anecdotes, solutions, etc.? And when do you feel is it okay for a customer to step in and make suggestions or even try to take it somewhere else? Thinking about maybe taking it to our Ford service center instead, as we've had some good experience with them and they're about the only option left since again, our GM dealership has a terrible reputation. Bottom line is that two third party shops (one of whom is a specialist) can't get it sorted and don't seem to want to actually trace where the bad ground/wire/connection/module/whatever the hell it is, is.
 
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Fless

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Well, that's irritating and annoying.

You might collect all of the codes to see if any modules are ratting out a particular common module. It's likely that a module or connection on the LAN is interrupting the comms.

Also, getting the code suffix might help with diagnostics. See the link below for examples.


SWAG You've changed the battery, but is the alternator operating correctly? If the voltage goes a bit wonky from time to time, the internal voltage regulator might be heading south. Other than that I think you may want to check connector pin fitment at the ECM connectors, if nothing points to another module.
 

Joseph Garcia

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As @Fless stated, knowing the rest of the trouble codes may provide additional insight into your issue, and might get you closer to identifying the root cause. If you can't get a complete list of codes from one of the shops that you've used so far, I suggest that you purchase a quality bi-directional scanner and obtain the trouble codes yourself. A quality bi-directional scanner will cost in the neighborhood of $500 (Autel is a good brand with a customer friendly interface.), and it will pay for itself many times over for the rest of the life of your truck.

Folks here can be very helpful, but we will need to see all of the trouble codes to provide you with effective assistance.
 
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@Fless I have never noticed anything particularly odd outside of the normal swings from the RVC; nothing straying outside of normal patterns over the last 60,000 miles.

@Joseph Garcia Yea, I plan on seeing if I can get a full list of the secondary codes next time we speak if they haven't fixed it this time.

@mikez71 I actually came across that TSB in my own research as well as another one regarding the ECM pins specifically (as Fless mentioned) and mentioned it to them; no idea if they acted on it though.

That's the worst part, is that I don't know if they've actually listened to me and I don't know what all they've supposedly looked at and tested. Seems I'm gonna have to grill them about it. Just sucks because I'm pretty conflict averse and I don't wanna be "that guy" that acts like I know better than them. I did grow up around mechanics and do a lot of stuff on my own, but I try to stay in my lane.

They did mention offhandedly that they seem to be focused more on comms with the BCM.
 

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I had a 2015 that had crazy electrical problems like random codes, dash lights and gauges going crazy, and all sorts of mayhem. It would be intermittent as well. I went along your lines and checked grounds and power, all were good.

The codes were all random but the code to consistently trip the most was loss of comms with one of the blind spot monitor modules. I replaced that module and everything was 100%. Apparently a bad module can corrupt the can bus and cause lots of crazy problems. Not sure if that helps.

I just bought a 2026 and with the multitude of modules and wiring in this bad boy I opted for the extended warranty!
 
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I had a 2015 that had crazy electrical problems like random codes, dash lights and gauges going crazy, and all sorts of mayhem. It would be intermittent as well. I went along your lines and checked grounds and power, all were good.

The codes were all random but the code to consistently trip the most was loss of comms with one of the blind spot monitor modules. I replaced that module and everything was 100%. Apparently a bad module can corrupt the can bus and cause lots of crazy problems. Not sure if that helps.

I just bought a 2026 and with the multitude of modules and wiring in this bad boy I opted for the extended warranty!
Yea, that's been my experience in the past, when it affects multiple systems and features and is seemingly random it's a module issue, usually top-level like the BCM. I just wanted to cover the simple little bases first before I took it in, but also both these shops seem to be really zero'd in on it being a ground or wire as well. I've mentioned being concerned it was an actual module somewhere, but they've kinda brushed me off.
 

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I have only bumped into the U0100 code when my 6L80 tranny failed on our Escalade. Problem ended up being a failing TCM, Techm inside the tranny.

U0100 says the systems are not communicating. Only way I have watched the can bus talking is using an Oscilloscope tapped into the can bus. Even with an Oscilloscope running you will only see the issue if the module fails while you are testing. Intermittent failures can be near impossible to trace. If part of the can bus system is dead that can be picked up measuring voltage at your OBD2 ports. The can bus operates at 5 v. There is also a very specific OHM reading if it is working properly or if some of the wire harness is dead. In your harness all over the truck there are twisted small wires. The twisted wires are Can Bus wires, communication wires to your modules. The twist helps avoid distortions in my understanding so do not unwrap them.

I know this is not an answer but maybe a path to repair?
 
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@Fless @Joseph Garcia Have an update for ya.

After sitting for another week+ untouched with no updates (bringing us to a month now of this escapade)...I went ahead and pulled the plug. Picked it up, told him to send me a bill, and I'm going to take it to what will be a third shop on Monday. It's cold and windy as balls out right now (if you know Laramie, you know) and I no longer have a garage, but I'll try to have a gander at a few things when it warms up on Sunday before I take it in.

Having said that, I was able to pull all the codes.

U0100 (Lost Communication with PCM "A")
U0101 (Lost Communication with TCM)
U0102 (Lost Communication with Transfer Case Module)
U0109 (Lost Communication with Fuel Pump Control Module)
U0121 (Lost Communication with ABS Module)
U0140 (Lost Communication with Body Control Module)
P0700 (Transmission Control System [MIL request])

(I also have a P0573 [Brake Switch A Circuit High], but that's an older, persistent code that I think is a separate issue and is related to why my cruise control is intermittent. Lol. Pretty sure I just need a new brake switch at some point.)
 

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Network twisted pair reduces the effects of noise and interference on the network.

Generally the CAN network has two 120 ohm resistors in parallel, so the measured resistance overall -- provided all modules are passing the network connection and the resistors are good -- should be 60 ohms. The network integrity can be measured at the OBD port with the battery disconnected. (The network can be intact but have a bad module, too.)

Ivan at Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics does a lot of this kind of testing, as does Eric O at South Main Auto. Both are on YouTube and you can find their videos there if you're interested in understanding how the network connections work. Here's one example.

 

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Good Info Fless. Unfortunately many shops will not even try to chase issues with Can Bus systems because they are not qualified and they can never charge for all the hours they invest trying to find Can Bus issues.
 

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Our 2010 Tahoe LTZ has been an absolute beast since we bought it at roughly 125k; it's got 188k now and I've kept it in pretty solid condition the whole time in spite of heavy usage...and have avoided a lot of the typical problems with these things. Thing still easily books for 10k in my area and I'm not in a position to buy another car, so in no way do I want to give up on it over anything minor.

But we're currently involved in an electrical saga that has us at our wits' end, and I'm not sure how to approach things.

So every roughly 400 miles (or maybe 40-50 hrs runtime) it'll go into limp mode, primary code is the top-level U0100 (lost comms with PCM) with a zillion system codes behind it, many unrelated to each other. It'll start up and be just fine in 15-20 minutes...until it does it again at roughly the same interval.

It has since been in and out of two shops (including an automotive electronics specialist) for over a month and no one can seem to figure it out. But I really suspect they're being lazy with diag, and more importantly, I think we're starting to get kicked to the back burner.

-I did some initial surveying of the major grounds, harnesses, and wiring, and didn't come up with anything and didn't really have the time, so I took it to our primary mech.

-They initially cleaned up a couple of grounds (they didn't specify, but I'm assuming the two main BCM grounds [seat and fender], which I had already looked at) and sent it back to us. That didn't do the trick.

-I then replaced the battery after the next incident, as the battery was near end of life and I was getting ready to do it anyway as preemptive maintenance. They had also suggested this would be the next step if the grounds weren't the issue, and that correlated with a lot of what I'd read on here. But that didn't do the trick.

-Took it back to them; after consulting with the electrical shop, they decided to swap out the main engine fuse box with a used one....which not only didn't solve the issue, but temporarily caused all sorts of other little issues (no turn signal, etc.) because the used one had all sorts of corrosion on the fuses. Lol. Anyway, fixed the new unrelated issues, original problem recurs, back to the shop it goes...where it has now been sitting (untouched) for another week.

I'm frustrated because while I'm not an idiot, I don't have a proper scan tool (just a cheap code reader and for some reason it can't get past the U0100 code...only reason I know about the other codes is the shop told me) and don't have the knowledge/experience these guys have. But also, the only other alternative is our actual GM dealership, which has a terrible and declining reputation and I'm afraid they're just gonna start firing the parts cannon at it too, potentially just going through and replacing hundreds/thousands of dollars worth of modules without actually taking the time to diag properly. So I'm not sure where else to go or what to do.

This is our primary vehicle and long story short, being without it has been both expensive and stressful as hell. But I'm nervous about trying to take things into my own hands. Besides tracing all the wiring myself, I don't really have any other ideas except for maybe the Battery Redistribution block or the BCM (or even the computer) itself...but neither shop seems to think they're the issue (and I have no idea if they've tested them).

Any ideas, anecdotes, solutions, etc.? And when do you feel is it okay for a customer to step in and make suggestions or even try to take it somewhere else? Thinking about maybe taking it to our Ford service center instead, as we've had some good experience with them and they're about the only option left since again, our GM dealership has a terrible reputation. Bottom line is that two third party shops (one of whom is a specialist) can't get it sorted and don't seem to want to actually trace where the bad ground/wire/connection/module/whatever the hell it is, is.
logic to me dictates that if the code is lost communication with ecm, then perhaps the problem is the ecm and you do not indicate that this was replaced.
a scanner is going to help but it will only do so much, if everything else is good and the same problem keeps occurring.....
another used ecm is not expensive and if it is pulled from a matching 8 digit vin code it should be either plug-n-play or would only need a key relearn.
whatever the 8th digit is in your vehicle vin, the replacement should be sourced from a vehicle with that same 8th digit (usually it's a letter)
for instance my 2012 is a vin F so another denali, sierra, or escalade should have a matching vin
 

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@Fless @Joseph Garcia Have an update for ya.

After sitting for another week+ untouched with no updates (bringing us to a month now of this escapade)...I went ahead and pulled the plug. Picked it up, told him to send me a bill, and I'm going to take it to what will be a third shop on Monday. It's cold and windy as balls out right now (if you know Laramie, you know) and I no longer have a garage, but I'll try to have a gander at a few things when it warms up on Sunday before I take it in.

Having said that, I was able to pull all the codes.

U0100 (Lost Communication with PCM "A")
U0101 (Lost Communication with TCM)
U0102 (Lost Communication with Transfer Case Module)
U0109 (Lost Communication with Fuel Pump Control Module)
U0121 (Lost Communication with ABS Module)
U0140 (Lost Communication with Body Control Module)
P0700 (Transmission Control System [MIL request])

(I also have a P0573 [Brake Switch A Circuit High], but that's an older, persistent code that I think is a separate issue and is related to why my cruise control is intermittent. Lol. Pretty sure I just need a new brake switch at some point.)
I did not read every thing but those codes all pretty much match up perfectly with this tsb for the transmission harness
 
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I did not read every thing but those codes all pretty much match up perfectly with this tsb for the transmission harness
Yea, someone else mentioned it and I had actually mentioned it to the last shop but was brushed off.

I just crawled underneath there (now that I have it back for a couple days) and it doesn't look like there's much corrosion in there, and none of the pins have backed out, but I'll still mention it to the next shop on Monday. There's also no chafing where the wires run over the heat shield; the wire loom is still fully intact and not showing much (if any) rubbing, so that's good. (Or bad, I guess, since it's not a solution haha).

Nothing appears loose or corroded on the ECM pins on first glance but I didn't spend a ton more time on it because it's still cold and windy as shit.

A couple of the main grounds underneath the driver's side look pretty corroded over so those clearly weren't the ones the last shop supposedly cleaned up. I'll clean those up tomorrow when it's warmer. Hopefully I don't accidentally fix the problem there and send the next shop on a wild goose chase, lol.
 

Kelly Craft

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i know you said they replaced the fuse box but if they just popped the fuse and relay holder out from the top and put in a different one you could have the problem I had on my 08 Yukon. the wire harness under the whole fuse box assembly was rubbing on the metal fender lip and wore through the insulation. you have to remove the fuse box housing and look at the wire harness underneath.
 
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Small update for information's sake:

Once the weather warmed, I did a full cleaning and re-grounding job of the two frame rail grounds on the driver's side, as well as the duo on the left rear body mount. Those four grounds ranged from "meh, bit of surface rust but still decent contact" to "I actually had to dig through a half inch of crud with a pocketknife to even get a socket on the bolt". It honestly wouldn't surprise me if one or all of those was the issue, but the pessimist in me thinks I'm not that lucky.

Anyway, cleaned and brushed the heck out of everything, sanded the surfaces down, and re-grounded everything with dielectric grease as an additional measure.

The megafuse tests fine and all the engine grounds and battery cables look clean and are tight. (My engine bay is actually really clean, as a general note.) Took some more time on the ECM harness, it looks fine with no corrosion and no loose pins.

The only grounds I haven't checked are the ones on the front body mounts behind the bumper (bit of a job to get to) and the one underneath the A pillar interior trim piece(which to my understanding is just for the cluster anyway).

I'll double check the harnesses under the fuse box later today; I can't remember if I looked at them before and neither previous shop mentioned them at all.

We're only less than 100 miles and a couple dozen starts into the usual ~400 mi cycle of when it generally happens again, so all we can really do is wait and see. We've decided to hold off taking it to another shop until we can confirm that redoing all those underbody grounds didn't resolve the issue.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Small update for information's sake:

Once the weather warmed, I did a full cleaning and re-grounding job of the two frame rail grounds on the driver's side, as well as the duo on the left rear body mount. Those four grounds ranged from "meh, bit of surface rust but still decent contact" to "I actually had to dig through a half inch of crud with a pocketknife to even get a socket on the bolt". It honestly wouldn't surprise me if one or all of those was the issue, but the pessimist in me thinks I'm not that lucky.

Anyway, cleaned and brushed the heck out of everything, sanded the surfaces down, and re-grounded everything with dielectric grease as an additional measure.

The megafuse tests fine and all the engine grounds and battery cables look clean and are tight. (My engine bay is actually really clean, as a general note.) Took some more time on the ECM harness, it looks fine with no corrosion and no loose pins.

The only grounds I haven't checked are the ones on the front body mounts behind the bumper (bit of a job to get to) and the one underneath the A pillar interior trim piece(which to my understanding is just for the cluster anyway).

I'll double check the harnesses under the fuse box later today; I can't remember if I looked at them before and neither previous shop mentioned them at all.

We're only less than 100 miles and a couple dozen starts into the usual ~400 mi cycle of when it generally happens again, so all we can really do is wait and see. We've decided to hold off taking it to another shop until we can confirm that redoing all those underbody grounds didn't resolve the issue.
IMO, good decision. That ground on the frame under the driver's feet can cause all kinds of issues, if it is not clean and tight.

Good luck!
 

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Unless I missed it, I didn't notice anything about anyone diagnosing the various modules, just wiring. The list of DTCs is an indication of a network crash, that much we know. And yes, wire breaks, bad grounds, etc., can be the root cause. But it sounds like a lot of that was looked at.

If it were me... I'd consider that one of the modules might be the culprit. I only say this because I've seen this on a neighbors Tahoe. I started to isolate modules, starting with the FPMC. That module can get corroded due to its location above the spare tire. Disconnect the battery, unplug the FPMC, reconnect the battery, turn the key to the 'on' position 9not start), clear DTCs and run a scan. When I did that, sure enough, other modules came back online. Replaced the FPMC, issue resolved. Mind you, there were no DTCs indicating a fuel system problem. Yet, the FPMC had an issue. My guess is that because it crashed the network, the ECU wasn't receiving any errors from it. Since replacing the FPCM fixed the issue, I didn't have to move on to other modules. My next one would have been the ABSM.
 
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Unless I missed it, I didn't notice anything about anyone diagnosing the various modules, just wiring. The list of DTCs is an indication of a network crash, that much we know. And yes, wire breaks, bad grounds, etc., can be the root cause. But it sounds like a lot of that was looked at.

If it were me... I'd consider that one of the modules might be the culprit. I only say this because I've seen this on a neighbors Tahoe. I started to isolate modules, starting with the FPMC. That module can get corroded due to its location above the spare tire. Disconnect the battery, unplug the FPMC, reconnect the battery, turn the key to the 'on' position 9not start), clear DTCs and run a scan. When I did that, sure enough, other modules came back online. Replaced the FPMC, issue resolved. Mind you, there were no DTCs indicating a fuel system problem. Yet, the FPMC had an issue. My guess is that because it crashed the network, the ECU wasn't receiving any errors from it. Since replacing the FPCM fixed the issue, I didn't have to move on to other modules. My next one would have been the ABSM.
I've been suspicious of actual modules from the beginning (this wouldn't be my first rodeo with failing modules in a variety of vehicles and the behavior has been similar) and it was one of the first things I mentioned, but the first two shops completely ignored my concerns and glossed over it and have insisted that it's a wire or ground somewhere. Which it may very well be (then again, they were convinced it was the fuse box so meh), but at this point only time will tell.

It's a difficult position to be in as a customer, because [for good reason] shops HATE being told how to do their job and they hate being sent down biased diagnostic paths and I'm fully aware of that.

Anyway, the biggest problem is still that the condition is so intermittent. It happens, everything comes back within a few minutes, codes can be cleared after a couple drive cycles (the U series codes can't be deleted until the vehicle runs for a couple drive cycles without the condition present, but yea the condition disappears as quickly as it came), and everything is fine (until the next time). If a specific module is failing, we may have to just wait until it gets worse and stays incommunicado for longer periods of time in order to isolate/identify it.

I'm almost at the point where I'm about to tell the next shop I'm willing to start firing the parts cannon at it though. It took over a year and a half for the ABS module on the Hybrid in my signature to start failing for long enough periods of time to actually diagnose. I really don't want to chase this thing that long.

I do find it interesting that the TCM was allegedly the module that sent the actual MIL request, but that doesn't necessarily mean it was the one that had a failure obviously. I am wondering if that would be the best place to start though.

Whatever I guess, lol. We're about 150 miles into this latest round now; I'll probably have my answer within a few days as to whether the grounds were the issue. I want to definitively eliminate that potential fix first; last thing I want to do is magically fix something but not know how or why it got fixed.
 

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