Side Body Moulding Anchorage?

The rear door exterior side body moulding on our '08 Tahoe is curling outward at the forward end and causing interference with the rear edge of the front door.
It is a replacement moulding installed by a body shop three or four years ago after body repairs where done but it's too long ago to expect them to redo it. The shame of the matter is that the first time they applied it the adhesion was not very tight and they redid it back then too.

Is there a down and dirty way to get it to say attached to the door?
I can push it back and can see how to temporarily clamp it during a repair, but with what adhesive material? Is there a tenacious double sided tape? I would be afraid of using any sort of glue that might breakdown the door paint.

I considered a screw into the face of the door panel but perhaps as a last resort.

I could do a Rube job and cut off the leading edge of the moulding so it clears the edge of the adjoining front door. That would be temporary though because I suspect the delamination may continue.

This style of 3M tape; it comes in a variety of sizes:

Factory stuff is 3M Emblem tape, About 1/16" thick double sided and if used right it's permanent. If you can get the whole molding off, clean it really well, clean the paint, put a tape line to get the molding just right, and reapply. (edit) as Fless pictured just now.

Fless said:

This style of 3M tape; it comes in a variety of sizes:

View attachment 479320

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Thanks for that.

3M VHB tape
Clean both surfaces and wipe with rubbing/isopropyl alchohol prior to application
Apply the tape and press hard for 30 seconds to allow the adhesive to wet into/onto the surfaces. Best to do one side at a time.

Any suggestions on width for the body side moulding? It is significantly wider than the tapes I've come across.
A couple narrow strips on edges or cover the whole contact area?

It is 1/2 wide on my 07.

When I removed mine, they were two strips top and bottom. And I can't remember the ends, but assume they were stuck there also..

This should give you an idea where to put the tape on the part not the door.

I can guess why one of mine is lifting off or seeming to warp away from the body at the last 4" to 5".
It had a professional accident repair a bit over a year ago and I am seeing that there is no tape in that area.
I'm going to give it a try to get some in there if I can clean it up in place.

The 3M tape worked like a charm.

The front of the rear door piece (left piece in picture) was bowed outward about 3/8" and the rear of the front door piece (right piece in the picture) was out about 1/8" inch.

Using a hair dryer made the bowed rear piece supple and it pushed right back into position and the bow did not spring back.

The hair dryer was also used to heat the body panels up because the weather was colder than the recommended application temperature.

Neither piece was taken off so it was a bit of a struggle to get the old tape's adhesive out of there and to clean the contact surfaces in the minimal finger space. The old adhesive was stuck to both moulding and the door panel.

Both were in spots where a clamp could hold the joints tight for a while and that seems to have been of help because they both are holding tight.

Which number 3M tape did you end up using?

Fless said:

Which number 3M tape did you end up using?

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1/2" (03609) horizontal T & B and 7/8" (03615) vertical on the large recessed block on the rear piece at the door jamb.
I probably didn't need two sizes as the majority of the contact areas are best suited to 1/2".
I think the 7/8" will probably hold better where it was used rather than multiple pieces of 1/2". It's also easier to just put on two wide pieces rather then four narrow ones. Pealing the protective film is easier in the concealed area with fewer is better.