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McYuckin 2011 Yukon SLT build
- Thread starter McYukin
- Start date
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Stereo / Head Unit Install
Wanted something with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto for maps and musics, easy enough to install, cheap, and preferred to retain steering wheel controls. Purchased Boss BE7ACP-SD, PAC RP5-GM31 Wiring Interface, and Metra 99-3305 Dash Kit from Crutchfield. Yukon has Bose sound system (UQA RPO).
Overall, happy with the mod, as I have maps, music, and steering wheel controls!
Watched AutoMotivate video for radio removal and installation. Sadly, had to solder Boss head unit wires to PAC harness (I thought it'd be plug and play). Everything worked well before re-installing, but shorted something while re-installing, had to replace a fuse, everything works now. Plugged speakers into "non-amplified output" port, not sure what's correct, but stuff is working. Did need the door chime unit. I do still have fade and balance, some reviews said I'd lose it. Ran the CarPlay/Auto USB cable out back of console, into drivers foot well, and into lower console. Second USB cable from head unit powers my dash cam, only when accessory power is on.
Metra Dash Kit wasn't obvious. I can pull my radio straight out right now. Still need to fix that. Yukon does have backup camera running to mirror, and head unit can display it. I haven't tapped the camera connection and run it to the head unit yet.
I think the USB port in my arm rest connected to the OEM radio. The radio used a micro USB port. I've left that dangling for now.
Head unit does have slight polarization that my sunglasses interfere with. Not too bad, though. No strong opinions on the floating display. Probably helps make the display a little more visible on a vehicle that wasn't designed with it in mind. Cubby underneath isn't super accessible. 9" screen would have been nice, but was much more expensive when I purchased.
Wanted something with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto for maps and musics, easy enough to install, cheap, and preferred to retain steering wheel controls. Purchased Boss BE7ACP-SD, PAC RP5-GM31 Wiring Interface, and Metra 99-3305 Dash Kit from Crutchfield. Yukon has Bose sound system (UQA RPO).
Overall, happy with the mod, as I have maps, music, and steering wheel controls!
Watched AutoMotivate video for radio removal and installation. Sadly, had to solder Boss head unit wires to PAC harness (I thought it'd be plug and play). Everything worked well before re-installing, but shorted something while re-installing, had to replace a fuse, everything works now. Plugged speakers into "non-amplified output" port, not sure what's correct, but stuff is working. Did need the door chime unit. I do still have fade and balance, some reviews said I'd lose it. Ran the CarPlay/Auto USB cable out back of console, into drivers foot well, and into lower console. Second USB cable from head unit powers my dash cam, only when accessory power is on.
Metra Dash Kit wasn't obvious. I can pull my radio straight out right now. Still need to fix that. Yukon does have backup camera running to mirror, and head unit can display it. I haven't tapped the camera connection and run it to the head unit yet.
I think the USB port in my arm rest connected to the OEM radio. The radio used a micro USB port. I've left that dangling for now.
Head unit does have slight polarization that my sunglasses interfere with. Not too bad, though. No strong opinions on the floating display. Probably helps make the display a little more visible on a vehicle that wasn't designed with it in mind. Cubby underneath isn't super accessible. 9" screen would have been nice, but was much more expensive when I purchased.
Anderson Plug for Air Compressor in Grille
Wanted to refill tires without messing with the hood, so I wired an SB50 Anderson Connector to the grille. Works for now!
About $50 in materials: 2-3x SB50 plugs, SB50 environmental boot cover, SB50 connector handle, 2x 8ft 10 gauge wires, 2x 1/4" ring terminals, 12v air compressor (viair 400p for me), small zip tie
I'm not thrilled with the mount point. Time will tell if I care enough to move it. I drilled holes in the plastic grille for a zip-tie to hold the environmental boot. They were a little too far back, as the boot sat in a recess, angled too much, and I couldn't get another plug in. I moved the whole thing forward for now.
After buying all the materials, I thought about using (7-pin?) trailer connection instead. Mine has 30A trailer charging wire, and compressor says max 30a draw. I had all my materials, though, and had reservations about pulling 100% of rated capacity.
Couple reminders: Put the environmental boot on the wire before connecting stuff. Remember which lead is which when cutting off the air compressor clamps. Buy the correct sized ring connectors. No fuse (for now) between battery and environmental boot, just on compressor leads.
Wanted to refill tires without messing with the hood, so I wired an SB50 Anderson Connector to the grille. Works for now!
About $50 in materials: 2-3x SB50 plugs, SB50 environmental boot cover, SB50 connector handle, 2x 8ft 10 gauge wires, 2x 1/4" ring terminals, 12v air compressor (viair 400p for me), small zip tie
I'm not thrilled with the mount point. Time will tell if I care enough to move it. I drilled holes in the plastic grille for a zip-tie to hold the environmental boot. They were a little too far back, as the boot sat in a recess, angled too much, and I couldn't get another plug in. I moved the whole thing forward for now.
After buying all the materials, I thought about using (7-pin?) trailer connection instead. Mine has 30A trailer charging wire, and compressor says max 30a draw. I had all my materials, though, and had reservations about pulling 100% of rated capacity.
Couple reminders: Put the environmental boot on the wire before connecting stuff. Remember which lead is which when cutting off the air compressor clamps. Buy the correct sized ring connectors. No fuse (for now) between battery and environmental boot, just on compressor leads.
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