The Engine Mod Thread

[danimalmax]

Okay guys, I need your help in compiling a list

I want to see your opinion and suggestions on a list of engine performance modifications by order of necessity/price/and just-gotta-have-it

I see that most people around here usually go get their CAI first, maybe a BlackBear tune next, etc

I'm just gunna start with I have so far and the order I did them in, plus extras that I think I want to work on next


1. Cold Air Intake
2. Corvette Servo
3. Big 3 Wiring Upgrade
4. Black Bear Tune
5. Long Tube Headers
6. Cam

Please feel free to add and/or change the list

My goal is to see an ultimate list of mods and the order I should do them in (of course variations apply to different people, but this is just so I can have a general guide)

Thanks in advance!

 

[Sepiroth]

Forced induction.
MAF meters
Throttle Bodys
Port and polish
Valves
springs
lifters
pistons
Crank
hi flow oil pumps
hi flow water pumps

 

[JKmotorsports]

Exhaust
CAI
e-fans
BB tune

On the way as we speak:
Magnuson Radix supercharger w/10lb pulley
Lingenfelter GT 2-3 cam and LS6 springs
160*t-stat

 

[blueflamed03]

1) CAI
2) gears
3) longtubes
4) cam
5) stall
6) Blackbear tune


tune will fix O2 sensors from header install, firm up tranny so no need really for servo, and utilize all power potentials from LT and cam/gear swap.

 

[danimalmax]

but you have a servo?

 

[Volant1]

tune up
get some money
than buy
intake
exhaust
servo or trans up grade
programmer or tune
e-fans
this list can go on forever

 

[JKmotorsports]

Exhaust
CAI
e-fans
BB tune

On the way as we speak:
Magnuson Radix supercharger w/10lb pulley
Lingenfelter GT 2-3 cam and LS6 springs
160*t-stat

Sorry about my post. I read wrong and thought you were asking for a list of other members' engine mods.

I would do most of the bolt-on mods first then get the pcm tuned to help the engine better utilize all the add-ons.
Electric fans help free up some power and mileage.
Another easy add-on is a lower t-stat to help keep the engine running a little cooler.
If you want to go beyond bolt-ons, a cam/head swap will make the biggest gains aside from forced induction.

 

[YNOT]

imo:
1st - gears
2nd - filter/muffler
3rd - tune
4th - and just drive it. if you want to go fast get a different toy.

 

[PavementPounder]

i would like to do a cam upgrade with the ls6 intake mod also.

 

[danimalmax]

what do y'all think of those thumpr or motherthumpr cams from comp cams?

---------- Post added at 08:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:15 PM ----------

imo:
1st - gears
2nd - filter/muffler
3rd - tune
4th - and just drive it. if you want to go fast get a different toy.

lol tell that to jennabear

---------- Post added at 08:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:16 PM ----------

can someone show me the way to finding out more about gears? i have no idea about that kind of thing

 

[YNOT]

can someone show me the way to finding out more about gears? i have no idea about that kind of thing

you mean what you have? or what you should get?

 

[danimalmax]

you mean what you have? or what you should get?

yeah, what to get, what to do? can you tell me more?

 

[YNOT]

check the glove box if you don't know what you have.

G80 = Locking rear differential
2.73 = GU2
3.08 = GU4
3.42 = GU6
3.73 = GT4, GQ1
4.10 = GT5

put some 4.10's of 4.56's in depending on what rpm you want to run on the highway. problem with gears is the labor is expensive.

 

[road1will]

check the glove box if you don't know what you have.

G80 = Locking rear differential
2.73 = GU2
3.08 = GU4
3.42 = GU6
3.73 = GT4, GQ1
4.10 = GT5

put some 4.10's of 4.56's in depending on what rpm you want to run on the highway. problem with gears is the labor is expensive.

Thats what i loved about the drop out 3rd member on my old land rover (similar to toyota)...remove the 3rd member, install new diff/gears, and then i'd take it to my local shop for them to adjust/check over. Never cost me more than $100 and a couple hours of my own labor to install gears or a locker.

 

[danimalmax]

Please forgive my stupidity, but why the rpm on the highway thing? And what gains will I see with 4.10 or 4.56?

 

[YNOT]

the lower the gear ratio, the more pull you have from a stop.
the lower the gear ratio, the lower your top speed is, because you hit redline at a lower mph.

---------- Post added at 09:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:34 PM ----------

in 3rd gear with 4.10's is like 2800 rpms at 65mph.
in 3rd gear with 4.56's is like 3100 rpms at 65mph.

 

[danimalmax]

those rpms seem high, i know right now i get 2000 at 75 mph

---------- Post added at 06:33 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:04 AM ----------

performance trucks has a good list of bolt ons that are proven to work:

http://performancetrucks.net/forums/showthread.php?t=395748&highlight=4.10+gears+tahoe

one of them was an exhaust cutout, that seems nuts, lol

 

[YNOT]

those rpms seem high, i know right now i get 2000 at 75 mph

i did the calculator in 3rd gear. 2000rpms is probably 3.42 in od

 

[blueflamed03]

but you have a servo?

but I don't have a tune. Servo was put in when tranny was being rebuilt anyway. Cheap $40 addition while it was out.

---------- Post added at 09:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:21 AM ----------

Please forgive my stupidity, but why the rpm on the highway thing? And what gains will I see with 4.10 or 4.56?

low end grunt...it will 'feel' like you've added more HP and TQ, which in respects, you have. The 4.8 and 5.3 and revving motors, all yourr doing is getting the truck up and moving faster, with a deeper gear.
Example: 3.23 gear, eh around town, great on highway, keeps RPM's down
4.11 gear, great around town, good on highway, will use more gas, because motor is revving higher at highway speeds.

 

[danimalmax]

the fact that i do about half city half highway driving is kinda shying me away from the whole gear thing now...