NNBS Roof Rack Delete How-To (With Lots of Pictures!)

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kysrsze

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I did the roof rack delete on my 2011 Tahoe LT today and wanted to share the process complete with photos and a walk through. I noticed the other "go to" posts don't have working photos any more. Hopefully this helps some of you that are looking to do the same.

This project is EASY and should take even a novice approximately 30 minutes.

Tools Needed:
  • Drill or Screwdriver
  • T25 Torx Bit
  • Flathead Screwdriver

Hardware Needed:
  • 10x M6-1.0 x 16mm Pan Head Screws
  • Locktite Thread Sealant
  • Spraypaint (close to matching your car paint color)

Prepatory Work:

Prep Step 1: Push each screw through a piece of cardboard. This will help ensure you paint only the top of the screws.

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Prep Step 2: Paint the screw tops. I would recommend at least two coats. Let the paint dry while you take the roof rack off.

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Here is what I started with.

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Step 1: Remove the T25 Torx screws (left and right) on the back of the rack.

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Step 2: GENTLY pry up on the tab in between the two torx screws, this will allow you to slide the rear plastic cover off. In the image below you can see the tab under the plastic cover. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently release the clip will pulling the plastic cover toward the rear of the car. Do the other side also.

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Step 3: Slide the plastic cover off of the rail. If your truck is less than brand new, there will likely be a lot of dirt under the cover. Do the other side.

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Step 4: Release the slide locks on the cross bars and slide them off the rails.

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Step 5: Remove the screws from the center supports on both sides of the vehicle. The center supports are attached to the rails by plastic clips. No need to release the clips, just leave them attached.



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Step 6: Remove the two screws from the two front plastic mounts (located over the B-pillars). The roof rack is now completely free and able to be removed.

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Step 7: At this point, you may want to grab a rag, some soap, and some water to clean up the dirty spots where the roof rack sat against the roof. You will notice in my pictures below, there is a raised wax ring where the plastic parts touched the roof. I will have to work on removing these.

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Step 8: Put locktite on your newly painted screws and screw them snugly into the holes in your roof.

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Step 9: Enjoy your new clean roof!

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minytrker

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How critical is the length of the screws, they only had 20mm long and did not have any 16mm when I went.
 

07Burb

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Nice write up. I went through this last Spring or so (before I got my esky rack) and found out I just couldn't handle having the screws sticking up like that. So rackless just isn't for me unless all those holes are welded shut and then the roof painted.
 

minytrker

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I used the 20mm screws without any issue. I really like the look without the rack but not sure I can live with the screw heads.
 

fiatdale

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Could never live with screw heads or any other plug. It would have to be smooth, or like others have done, put some painted molding like the Joe Gibbs Tahoes were. Bravo on the pics and write up though.
 

07Burb

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Could never live with screw heads or any other plug. It would have to be smooth, or like others have done, put some painted molding like the Joe Gibbs Tahoes were. Bravo on the pics and write up though.

The problem with most molding is it will still be "lumpy" where it goes over the screws and/or holes
 

tsuintx

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Nice write-up and good pics OP. :thumbsup:

(before I got my esky rack)

So that's why yours looks different. Every time I see your sig pic I keep looking and wondering what's different about the rack. :think: The Escalade thing just never crossed my mind... :shrug:

One more thing to add to my to-do list with my wife's Tahoe. I also couldn't live with the screws sticking out even though you probably can't even see them when standing next to it.
 

07Burb

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Nice write-up and good pics OP. :thumbsup:



So that's why yours looks different. Every time I see your sig pic I keep looking and wondering what's different about the rack. :think: The Escalade thing just never crossed my mind... :shrug:

One more thing to add to my to-do list with my wife's Tahoe. I also couldn't live with the screws sticking out even though you probably can't even see them when standing next to it.

NathanJax has an Escalade Roof Rack that'd fit your Tahoe that he's going to be selling.
 

truman3

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I thought about removing the cross bars and just painting the rails on each side body color... Has anyone seen that?

I think it would look pretty good.
 

07Burb

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Nice write-up and good pics OP. :thumbsup:



So that's why yours looks different. Every time I see your sig pic I keep looking and wondering what's different about the rack. :think: The Escalade thing just never crossed my mind... :shrug:

One more thing to add to my to-do list with my wife's Tahoe. I also couldn't live with the screws sticking out even though you probably can't even see them when standing next to it.

Here's an esky roof rack for sale for stupid cheap!
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67982
 

kitsbeach

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View attachment 215807 View attachment 215807 View attachment 215807 I know I'm going to get the comment about how old this thread us that I am reviving but it is the best thread about this on the internet.

Has anyone thought about using set screws with a bit of sealant.? Those bumps would still stick up a little bit but I doubt anyone would see them.

I'm wondering if I'd need the right length for the set screws to bottom out in the holes, or if the loctite/sealant would be enough to hold them still.?

https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Socket-Set-Screw-A2-Stainless-Steel-M6-x-1-0-p/401014.htm

M6 X 1 STAINLESS STEEL METRIC SOCKET SET SCREWS.jpg
 

justinesky

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Set screw are a great idea. I used small plastic push pins and you can tell i even put anything over the holes
 

07Burb

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Set screw are a great idea. I used small plastic push pins and you can tell i even put anything over the holes
do you use sealant with the plastic push pins to prevent water from leaking in?
 

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