Front end rebuild

[arveetek]

For some reason, after 275K miles, my front end is getting a little sloppy. What gives?

I placed a big order with Rock Auto, and here's what I've got in my shop waiting to be installed:

I'm going to do it all at once and replace everything:

Upper and lower control arm bushings
Upper and lower ball joints
Inner and outer tie rods
Pitman arm
Idler arm
Idler arm bracket

I even got new adjusting sleeves so I wouldn't have to fight the old ones. I'm taking a couple of days off next week to get it all done and then have it aligned when I'm finished.

Casey

 

[SunlitComet]

Lucky you.

 

[singletrackboy]

I now have to get that done too @ 164,000mi but I had it all replaced 4 yrs ago @ 124,000mi. Is that normal? Is there something else going on? Or crappy replacement parts? I've heard that Moog is good

 

[Rangel]

I just replaced all that on my 08 @ 86k plus sway bar bushings and end links

 

[arveetek]

I now have to get that done too @ 164,000mi but I had it all replaced 4 yrs ago @ 124,000mi. Is that normal? Is there something else going on? Or crappy replacement parts? I've heard that Moog is good

I would guess subpar replacement parts. I'm pretty confident that all the parts I just removed were factory original at 277K miles. I'm hoping that the Moog stuff I just put in will go another 277K!

---------- Post added at 11:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:34 AM ----------

I just replaced all that on my 08 @ 86k plus sway bar bushings and end links

Yep, I also ended up replacing the sway bar bushings and end links as well. My links snapped in half when I tried to remove them.

Casey

 

[jdpber]

I did all Moog from rock last summer at 178k took me a day to do. Upper&lower ball joints, all the arm bushings, new tye rod end, steering, control arms. Everything up front. Not a bad job but it's not a cake walk I would say it's a 3.5 out of 5 on mechanical skill and difficulty.

Have fun. I hope to get another 178 out of mine

 

[arveetek]

Project Complete!

Project complete!

I started with a complete tear down of the front end:

I borrowed my dad's hydraulic press to press the bushings and lower ball joints out of the control arms, and then press the new parts in. This ended up taking the most amount of time during this process:

New bushings installed:

New pitman arm and idler arm installed:

Starting reassembly:

Nearly finished:

On the road again!

It took me nearly three days total from start to finish. I ended up replacing the following:

Upper and lower ball joints
Upper and lower control arm bushings
Inner and outer tie rods
Pitman arm
Idler arm
Sway bar links (rusted, didn't come apart)
Sway bar bushings
Brake hoses
Brake rotors

Now I need to save up a bit more dough for some new shocks. However, I'm amazed at how much better she drives! There really wasn't that much slop in the individual parts (although one ball joint had nearly an inch of play!!!), but added up, it equated to a lot of looseness in the steering. I feel much more confident about the condition of my vehicle, and now have a much better understanding of the IFS system.

Tricks I learned from this job (For Chevy IFS):

Paint the torsion bar bolts before removing; this will allow you to put the torsion bar tension right back where you started. I had to make zero adjustments when I was done.

When replacing the pitman arm, remove the three bolts holding the steering gear box to the frame, allowing it to drop down far enough to get a pitman arm puller on it.

Plan on replacing every bushing and moveable part you can while you're in there.

Have a press of some sort, or plan on paying someone with the proper tools to press the old parts out and the new ones in.

Now to finish my rock sliders, and I'll be ready to hit the trails once again!!

Casey

 

[SunlitComet]

Very well done.

 

[SunlitComet]

btw why did you remove the hub bearing assy and looks like you got a few slight leaks to fix as well.

 

[arveetek]

Very well done.

Thank you sir!

---------- Post added at 02:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:00 PM ----------

btw why did you remove the hub bearing assy and looks like you got a few slight leaks to fix as well.

The CV shafts had to come out in order to separate the ball joints from the knuckles, and it didn't look like the shafts would come through the opening of the knuckle. On my Jeep, I just leave the unit bearing attached to the axle shaft and pull the whole thing out as one piece.

Yep, I discovered my engine oil cooler lines are leaking. Time to upgrade those as well (another known issue on the 6.2L/6.5L family).

Casey

 

[BigUnLuke]

What did all this cost ya? If you don't mind telling. I'm about to do the same on mine.

 

[Brock]

Just replaced upper & lower ball joints, control arms & CV axles. My guy did it for about $1000. The 325's are killing me! 159K

 

[BigUnLuke]

How much of that was labor?

 

[Brock]

IDK bill was not itemized. But that price included sy oil change plus oil pan gasket replacement.

 

[arveetek]

I spent nearly $600 for quality Moog parts. I did all the labor myself, followed by a $45 alignment at a local tire shop.

Casey

 

[BirchyBoy]

I had the ball joints and sway bar links replaced yesterday. When I got home, I took a look and they sway bar links were installed opposite of yours (your pic below):

Is this going to be an issue on mine?

 

[Jerky Arm Ape]

BirchyBoy, the threaded end faces the upper A-arm?

Mine is installed like that to make it easier to put a socket in the lower a control arm.
The threads were interfering with the upper a-arm so I had to remove some.
Just to be clear, that isn't the correct way.