What kind of PowerSlot rotors to buy?

[99Yuk]

So, I've been getting ready to do my front brakes. I've been accumulating parts.

I have my Russel SS brake lines.
I have my 4L of ATE SuperBlue brake Fluid in anticipation of a complete flush.
I have picked out my front brake pads. Hawks Performance Ceramic part#HB296Z-670.

But I can't decide what rotors to buy.
From reading this forum, I'm leaning towards PowerSlot rotors, ok, but they have a couple of different kinds, and none are cross drilled and slotted, just slotted.

#1 - PSR-126-66025SR -REGULAR - ~$360 to buy two rotors, factor in shipping, then factor in currency conversion and border duties.

#2 - PSR-126-66025CSR - CYRO - ~$445 to buy two rotors, factor in shipping, then factor in currency conversion and border duties.

Or can I just buy;
#3 - SUM-DSEP-5575R - Summit Racing Special - cross drilled and slotted for ~$210 to buy two rotors, factor in shipping, then factor in currency conversion and border duties.

Or
#4 - Just the local autostore rotors that are cheap and nothing special. Solid vented rotors. ~$60 installed.


I am looking for maximum stopping power without breaking the bank. My wife's Jimmy, when I get into it, just about slam my head into the windshield after driving my truck. I want my truck to stop as good as the Jimmy. I know the Yukon is like double the weight of the Jimmy, but a guy can dream, can't he? The Old guy Mech and the aprentice, etc are all laughing at me because I want to spend over $600 on front brakes. They don't think that will make a difference. So I'm asking you guys.

Guys, what should I buy?

 

[99Yuk]

SOMEONE must have purchased Power Slot rotors and have an opinion of them!
Hasn't any one else bought the CRYO rotors? What did you think of them?

bueller.....
anyone....
anyone....

 

[steamroller]

Quality stock replacement rotors would be what I would run. If you wanna spend a little more money RockAuto has some some AC Delco Durastop rotors, they are slotted and are $73 each

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=108920
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=108919

3/4 ton brake calipers are an easy mod as well, they bolt up the same but the piston is bigger, you just have to be sure and use the 1/2 ton brake pads with them.

 

[bass1775]

What are the 3/4 ton calipers off of? What truck did they come off of? Will they fit on the 4WD model.

 

[99Yuk]

Quality stock replacement rotors would be what I would run. If you wanna spend a little more money RockAuto has some some AC Delco Durastop rotors, they are slotted and are $73 each

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=108920
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=108919

3/4 ton brake calipers are an easy mod as well, they bolt up the same but the piston is bigger, you just have to be sure and use the 1/2 ton brake pads with them.

So your not buying into the Power Slot hype eh? Ok, neither are the guys in our shop. Thanks for the links to AC Delco.

I can buy these ATE premium rotors for cheap at the local partssource.

Just to be clear, your asking us to use 3/4ton calipers with 1/2ton pads? wouldn't you want to use 3/4ton pads? Not trying to be rude, I don't know, just asking.

So can I buy 3/4ton 4wd 1998 obs pickup calipers and will they just bolt up?
Again, IDK, so I'm asking.

Thanks!

 

[AtomicHoe094]

im pretty sure 3/4ton only work with 2wd not 4wd

 

[steamroller]

What are the 3/4 ton calipers off of? What truck did they come off of? Will they fit on the 4WD model.

96-2000 OBS K2500, GVW 8600 trucks, I had to use the 96-98 OBS 1/2 ton K1500 pads or the pads hit the hat of the rotor

So your not buying into the Power Slot hype eh? Ok, neither are the guys in our shop. Thanks for the links to AC Delco.

I can buy these ATE premium rotors for cheap at the local partssource.

Just to be clear, your asking us to use 3/4ton calipers with 1/2ton pads? wouldn't you want to use 3/4ton pads? Not trying to be rude, I don't know, just asking.

So can I buy 3/4ton 4wd 1998 obs pickup calipers and will they just bolt up?
Again, IDK, so I'm asking.

Thanks!

I just don't see the cost for the Powerslots being worth it, I have never run them personally though. The 3/4 ton brake backing pads are shaped different but the pad dimensions are nearly the same, pics below. I know it doesn't make sense that the pistons are bigger and the pads are clipped/located inside the piston, but I didn't run into any problems


3/4 ton pads 8600 GVW

1/2 ton pads

im pretty sure 3/4ton only work with 2wd not 4wd

Mine is a 4 dr 4WD and they fit, maybe mine is some sort of factory freak or something

I can't make any guarantees that they will work on anything else, so you guys order parts at your own risk I just asked for calipers from a 98 3/4 ton truck, pads for a 98 1/2 ton truck, and stock replacement rotors for my 96 tahoe, and yes the parts guys looked at me like I was crazy lol. I actually compared the new vs old calipers and the difference was obvious so I don't believe they gave the wrong parts

 

[99Yuk]

Cool! Thanks for the info! I asked the apprentice about the bigger calliper. His first thought was WTF? Then his second thought was ok, but won't the brake pedal be lower due to the increased fluid amount in the bigger pistons?

He was worried that I might need the 3/4ton master cylinder, and he was worried about the pedal travel going lower to the floor.

So, are those things anything to worry about?

Thanks!


If this works, then I'm going to go with Hawks pads, upgraded calliper, and ATE premium rotors, and the blue racing brake fluid flush.

BTW, the aprentice asked me today if I wanted the rear shoe mod done as well? What is that? I'll have to ask him what that is. I ran out of time this morning.

 

[steamroller]

Cool! Thanks for the info! I asked the apprentice about the bigger calliper. His first thought was WTF? Then his second thought was ok, but won't the brake pedal be lower due to the increased fluid amount in the bigger pistons?

He was worried that I might need the 3/4ton master cylinder, and he was worried about the pedal travel going lower to the floor.

So, are those things anything to worry about?

Thanks!


BTW, the aprentice asked me today if I wanted the rear shoe mod done as well? What is that? I'll have to ask him what that is. I ran out of time this morning.

No problem, I hadn't thought about the pedal travel but that makes sense. The 4wd 4 doors got the bigger 11'' rear brakes so the master cylinders are probably different, I didn't change mine and didn't notice any difference as far as pedal travel goes. The actual piston diameter is only 7/32" bigger but every little bit helps

I've got so many different parts from different year trucks and SUV's it's a pain in the ass going to the parts stores. I usually go to their website beforehand and have the part # when I go in, otherewise they give me the ''it won't fit'' crap. It's wound up being like the Johnny Cash song 1 Piece At a Time LOL

I've never heard of the rear shoe mod? I'm interested in what that may be, so if you find out what he means let us know.

 

[97GT]

I just ordered som dimpled sloted rotars and and semi-metalic pads from www.brakeperformance.com
I spent $245.67 after shipping and taxes. They have a lifetime warranty so if it warps or cracks i get new ones for free. It should give some better stopping power without having to upgrade the calipers. I will let ya know how they perform, I get them tomorrow

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

i have the Brembo slotted factory replacement rotors on mine and they made a huge difference. calipers are factory, replaced them a couple years ago. paired them with the best non ceramic pads. i can literally lock the front wheels up, and im rollin 35's.

disabled ABS buy the way.

 

[raptorforme93]

I hate the brakes on chevy vehicles. Im looking into getting some slotted and dimpled rotors to replace the front ones. It deffinitally made a huge improvement 96ProCompTahoe?

 

[99Yuk]

No problem, I hadn't thought about the pedal travel but that makes sense. The 4 doors got the bigger 11'' rear brakes so the master cylinders are probably different, I didn't change mine and didn't notice any difference as far as pedal travel goes. The actual piston diameter is only 7/32" bigger but every little bit helps

I've got so many different parts from different year trucks and SUV's it's a pain in the ass going to the parts stores. I usually go to their website beforehand and have the part # when I go in, otherewise they give me the ''it won't fit'' crap. It's wound up being like the Johnny Cash song 1 Piece At a Time LOL

I've never heard of the rear shoe mod? I'm interested in what that may be, so if you find out what he means let us know.

Ok thanks! You've eased my mind about that mod! I'm going to pick up the 3/4ton calipers, the hawk pads are on thier way. And I may pick up the cheaper PowerSlot rotors.

I asked the guy about the rear shoe mod. He said he inserted SS clips into the bottom pin which extends the bottom of the shoes out toward the drum more, so the thoery goes that less pressure/travel is required by the wheel cylinder to apply the brakes. IDK if I want that or not. It supposedly helps keep more surface area of the shoe in contact with the drum while braking.

I will proably just keep adjusting the rear brakes by reversing and stopping, and skip this mod. I don't need my rear brakes locking up in the snow/ice.


So isn't there anyone who is running the CRYO PowerSlot rotors?

 

[TigerEyz3]

No problem, I hadn't thought about the pedal travel but that makes sense. The 4 doors got the bigger 11'' rear brakes so the master cylinders are probably different, I didn't change mine and didn't notice any difference as far as pedal travel goes. The actual piston diameter is only 7/32" bigger but every little bit helps

I've got so many different parts from different year trucks and SUV's it's a pain in the ass going to the parts stores. I usually go to their website beforehand and have the part # when I go in, otherewise they give me the ''it won't fit'' crap. It's wound up being like the Johnny Cash song 1 Piece At a Time LOL

I've never heard of the rear shoe mod? I'm interested in what that may be, so if you find out what he means let us know.

This is not true.... Mine has the 10" drums (don't know if the difference is due to 2wd vs 4wd, but has nothing to do with the number of doors.

 

[steamroller]

Must be a 4wd only thing, both mine and my brother's 4 door Yukon had them but they were both 4wd. It's the same rear end they used for the 4wd Suburbans, even has the factory sway bar that the 2 doors did not have. When I bought brake shoes that was one of the things I was asked whether it was 2 door or 4 door, so I think door count does matter. I'll add the 4wd in front of that to eliminate any confusion


Not to jack the thread but to the guys that have swapped to the slotted rotors, what makes 'brand a' better than 'brand b'? I understand how the slotted part helps expel some of the gasses created while braking, but what do you look for when comparing brands? Not bashing, just curious

 

[TigerEyz3]

I can only speak for the PowerSlot vs OEM rotor differences.

• PowerSlots are much heavier than the OEM and OEM replacement rotors
• PowerSlots are solid vs the OEM composite

I've had my PowerSlots for three years (during which I tow a 12' lawn care trailer frequently in addition to regular stop/go traffic) and they have always performed much better than the OEM rotors and have definitely had a longer life.

 

[steamroller]

Thanks, I'm (and probably the OP) just trying to justify why they cost nearly twice as much as a quality aftermarket rotor like Wagner or Raybestos.

The fully cast replacements aren't composite either from what I understand, so they will work better than the OEM parts as well. What I don't understand is with the slots isn't the surface area of the rotor actually reduced? Since you mentioned that they are much heavier won't that reduce braking as well due to rotational mass?

I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the whole concept of just the rotors themselves improving the braking. My thoughts are that as long as you use a quality rotor (not Chinese) and a good set of pads there should be no problems. I belived all the hype about stainless lines making a difference and I was disappointed when I made that switch, could've spent that $100 elsewhere.

 

[99Yuk]

Thanks, I'm (and probably the OP) just trying to justify why they cost nearly twice as much as a quality aftermarket rotor like Wagner or Raybestos.

The fully cast replacements aren't composite either from what I understand, so they will work better than the OEM parts as well. What I don't understand is with the slots isn't the surface area of the rotor actually reduced? Since you mentioned that they are much heavier won't that reduce braking as well due to rotational mass?

I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the whole concept of just the rotors themselves improving the braking. My thoughts are that as long as you use a quality rotor (not Chinese) and a good set of pads there should be no problems. I belived all the hype about stainless lines making a difference and I was disappointed when I made that switch, could've spent that $100 elsewhere.

Hmmm, I also bought the Russell SS brake lines, I hope I didn't waste money.

I just ordered the Hawk Performance ceramic Pads from Summit Racing, and I didn't order the powerslots, I ordered the ATE premium slotted rotors. As you say(your not the OP), I couldn't see myself spending double or triple on a brand with no concrete answers as to why.
I also ordered the 3/4ton HD front calipers from Partssource.
And I have four litres of super blue brake fluid waiting to be flushed in.

Can't wait to try this stuff out.

 

[dave76]

I put the Cryo Power Slots on my pops 96 1500 Burb, with the best Power Slot ceramic brake pads the Tire Rack sold. He's had them about a year, he said it's an improvement but the brakes really need to get hot before they start working real well, I told him it's the ceramic pads, next time will put good semi metalic pads for good all around use.

All in all I don't think they are worth $138 each as I've bought a set R1 Concepts slotted and drilled rotors and posi quiet semi metallic pads for my Hoe. The rotors were $86 for the pair and pads were $34, the trucks stops much better and has no more brake fade, and was well worth the money, I now use this company for all the brakes I do and always get a compliment on the performance of them.

 

[99Yuk]

Hey, thanks for posting about the Cyro's! I didn't feel that they were worth the money either.


So I finally got some spare time to install my new front brakes setup.

Russell SS brake lines, ATE Premium rotors, Hawks ceramic pads, and upgraded to 3/4Ton calipers.

Of coarse I picked the one Saturday that our shop decided to close on. So I was completely by myself. I couldn't find tools, and ran into problems.

I subscribe to the 'put stuff back exactly where you got it from and clean up after yourself' therom, so the Mechs gave me keys to their boxs and the shop. But again, I'm server certified, not wrench certified, so it took me over 8 hours to do this swap (well, and install a new Corsair H70 in my home machine ).

Things went well, until after I put my wheels back on and went for my test drive... Screech, Sceech, Screech...grind, grind, grind.... wtf????

Turns out that even though Summit racings webpage confirms that the set of Hawks brake pads say they fit my truck, they don't. They are too wide, and are grinding on the hub of my rotors. I had to quickly order up a cheap ($18) set of pads to put on. I've already emailed Summit to ask 'what's up with dat'. Here is what I ordered.

And I couldn't install the SS brake lines. My existing lines are too rusty to crack off, and I was turning the line, so I instinctively stopped and reused my old lines. I will wait for a Mech to install the SS lines.

I used the air powered vacum brake line sucker to bleed the brakes and flush out the old brown fluid until I saw the new blue fluid, all the while refilling the master cylinder when it got down to halfway.

I'm impressed that I was able to get this far by myself, with no help!

I find that the brake pedal goes down further than I'd like. I somehow thought that it would 'firm up' and go to the top of the pedal, but it's down to almost the floor.

I think that I'll ask a Mech to come in and properly bleed all four corners. It's amazing what people will do for a case of Moosehead!

Now the pics!

Get yourself a shop with a hoist!

Gather up all of your parts required;

ATE Premium Slotted Rotors, ATE Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid, Incorrect size Hawks Premium Ceramic Pads.

Upgraded 3/4ton Brake Cylinder. These bolt right on, and have no clearence issues anywhere. The 1/2ton pads(when sized correctly) fit right in. The Only difference is the bigger diameter cylinder.

Russell SS Brake Lines which I couldn't install.

Swear and Curse at wrong Pads. Old on top, New on bottom. Actual pics I emailed to Summit Racing.

When I get these brakes sorted, then I'm done modding/upgrading the Kon until next spring! Well except for the Heated Mirrors Mod!