Hey all, we just purchased a 1999 Tahoe LT with 117k miles on it. All stock except for mild wear BF Goodrich Radial All-Terrains (265/75/16). It also has a new K&N airfilter and the fuel pump and brakes were done about 8 months ago. The power steering hose is leaking which I will replace this weekend along with the serpentine belt (just guessing it will need replaced). Any other recommendations? Thinking of new plugs (recommendations?). Limited budget right now but looking at making sure I can get another 100k out of it. Thanks!
1999 Tahoe maintenance questions
- Thread starter g4willy
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
TheBeast99
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2010
- Posts
- 208
- Reaction score
- 0
well it won't hurt to replace the plugs, that's for sure. make sure they're the right gap. from what i've read, these trucks can be real picky.
you also might wanna have your shocks looked at. i thought mine were fine, but those things were soooo rusted that they must've been stock, and i have 127k on the clock. i had new KYB shocks put on by a friend and it's a noticeable difference. worth the $150 i gave him
just make sure to keep up on regular maintence! don't neglect it
you also might wanna have your shocks looked at. i thought mine were fine, but those things were soooo rusted that they must've been stock, and i have 127k on the clock. i had new KYB shocks put on by a friend and it's a noticeable difference. worth the $150 i gave him
just make sure to keep up on regular maintence! don't neglect it
Danny_Z56
Full Access Member
First thing is to have your transmission serviced'most people don't bother.
Also go with factory spec spark plugs.Would not hurt to have other fluids and filters changed out as well.Also a good seafoam treatment to your intake would be good (before your plug change).As far as the serpentine belt,i'd go with a Goodyear Gatorback belt.Also have your differential's serviced.
If you have and grease fittings i'd hit them with some good grease as well.Its a sure bet they have not been hit in a looong time.
At that milage I'd do a full tune up, and do use GM parts, www.gmpartsdirect.com has some awsome good prices on GM replacement parts, you just need the service part number.
Part numbers for common replacement parts are:
Distributor Cap:----10452459-----$33.88
Rotor:-------------10452457-----$7.70
Spark Plug Wires:--88894393-----$54.47
Spark Plugs:-------19256067-----$39.04
Part numbers for common replacement parts are:
Distributor Cap:----10452459-----$33.88
Rotor:-------------10452457-----$7.70
Spark Plug Wires:--88894393-----$54.47
Spark Plugs:-------19256067-----$39.04
I just picked up a set of AC Delco irridium plugs at Rock Auto for $40 for my '99. Gapped to .060 and my engine purrs. As others have mentioned, get fluids changed but be careful about a total tranny flush. Unless you know the PO serviced the tranny regularly, I would just drop the pan, swap the filter and gasket. You'll need close to 6 qts. tranny fluid. I believe it's Dex VI. Be careful about mixing green and orange coolant. Check the overflow AND the radiator to see what's in it.
faze
Full Access Member
Work your way through all of the fluids. When you do the tranny go for the flush...dropping the pan and replacing the filter with a few quarts isn't worth the effort.
do the coolant next, consider going after the hoses at the same time with a thermostat.
then the heavy fluids: both differentials and transfer case.
Brake and power steering fluids I'd get to when I had some free time.
When you replace the serpentine belt...do that right away...keep the old one in the truck...nice to have a spare in the vehicle.
Air Filter/fuel filter
also, pull the wheels off and see how the brakes look.
The lower balljoints are a PITA to get grease into...I ground a flat side on grease gun end, about 3/16 of an inch, to get it in there.
do the coolant next, consider going after the hoses at the same time with a thermostat.
then the heavy fluids: both differentials and transfer case.
Brake and power steering fluids I'd get to when I had some free time.
When you replace the serpentine belt...do that right away...keep the old one in the truck...nice to have a spare in the vehicle.
Air Filter/fuel filter
also, pull the wheels off and see how the brakes look.
The lower balljoints are a PITA to get grease into...I ground a flat side on grease gun end, about 3/16 of an inch, to get it in there.
I wouldnt do a total tranny flush. Just change the filter and six quarts and go on. My dad replaced his filter and six quarts at 100,000 miles and now has over 200,00 on an original 4l60e. And has never had a problem out of it. When you do a full tranny flush the new fluid can clean the clutch plates in the tranny and could cause it to start slipping.
faze
Full Access Member
Slowhoe's advice is not quite correct. If your tranny is on it's last legs you can squeek a few more miles out of it by leaving the fluid alone, ie don't change any of it. This is because the friction bits have been worn off your clutch plates and are floating around in the fluid providing some final few miles.
If your tranny can't handle having its fluid fully flushed...it's already worn out.
When you drop the pan less than half of the fluid comes out so it's really just a big waste of time and money.
You wouldn't drain half the oil out of your engine...
If your tranny can't handle having its fluid fully flushed...it's already worn out.
When you drop the pan less than half of the fluid comes out so it's really just a big waste of time and money.
You wouldn't drain half the oil out of your engine...
Last edited:
lowAZhoe
Resident GM Tech
INTAKE GASKETS!!! if they havent been done...better do them. before water mixes with the oil.
I would say he is correct, R & S Strauss will not even drain the fluid due to high failure rate. The new fluid is thick and causes the plates to slip. The problem is you dont know if there already worn. IMO like stated better to leave it alone.
longstand
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Posts
- 382
- Reaction score
- 0
Thats why, iam worry about changing my Tranny Fluid.. when i change my Manuel Tranny FLuid on my other car. it fell funny for a while.. after a few kk Miles it fell the same like it was.
If you aren't sure when the coolant or hoses have been replaced, do it all at the same time:
Upper and lower radiator hoses
2 bypass hoses for the water pump
4 heater hoses (either side of heater control valve which is under the air cleaner tubing)
New 16 pound radiator cap
New thermostat
Flush out and change all of your other fluids:
Engine oil
Transmission fluid
Power steering fluid
Brake fluid
Transfer case lube
Front and Rear differential fluid
Serpentine belt and the idler pulley tensionerr.
If yours still has the original style GM battery and side terminals, pull those bolts out and see what shape they are. If corroded heavily, throw them away and replace them for less than $5.00, coat everything in dielectric grease. Unbolt and clean all the battery cable connections, clean and grease as necessary.
Just because they're cheap, put a new gas cap, ensure the system is pressurized as it should be. If the filler next is crusty on the edge, clean it with a scotchbrite pad or similar.
Heading into winter, throw new wiper blades on it.
How are your headlights.....are the lenses cloudy/chalky at all? Polish them with some rubbing compound.
Check all your running lights, back up lights, etc...make sure you can see and be seen.
Check to make sure you have the jack and tire changing tools in your truck
Lower your spare tire and check it's condition and inflate it to maximum pressure.
Upper and lower radiator hoses
2 bypass hoses for the water pump
4 heater hoses (either side of heater control valve which is under the air cleaner tubing)
New 16 pound radiator cap
New thermostat
Flush out and change all of your other fluids:
Engine oil
Transmission fluid
Power steering fluid
Brake fluid
Transfer case lube
Front and Rear differential fluid
Serpentine belt and the idler pulley tensionerr.
If yours still has the original style GM battery and side terminals, pull those bolts out and see what shape they are. If corroded heavily, throw them away and replace them for less than $5.00, coat everything in dielectric grease. Unbolt and clean all the battery cable connections, clean and grease as necessary.
Just because they're cheap, put a new gas cap, ensure the system is pressurized as it should be. If the filler next is crusty on the edge, clean it with a scotchbrite pad or similar.
Heading into winter, throw new wiper blades on it.
How are your headlights.....are the lenses cloudy/chalky at all? Polish them with some rubbing compound.
Check all your running lights, back up lights, etc...make sure you can see and be seen.
Check to make sure you have the jack and tire changing tools in your truck
Lower your spare tire and check it's condition and inflate it to maximum pressure.
TheBeast99
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2010
- Posts
- 208
- Reaction score
- 0
gotta love all the great advice you guys give
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Follow the manual for 100,000 maintenance and fix what is broken or as it breaks. That will keep your cost low for now. Your manual will tell you how to deal with tranny fluid inspection and replacement.
---------- Post added at 02:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:32 AM ----------
Sparge, remove the plug on differential and check to see that the fluid level is within 1/4" of the the plug hole. To drain the rear just remove the cover and reinstall with a new gasket and refill it till fluid comes out of the hole then plug it.
---------- Post added at 02:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:35 AM ----------
BTW replace and rubber component that has been in contact with brake fluid or P/S fluid if you have not done so already as they will deteriorate quickly.
---------- Post added at 02:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:32 AM ----------
Sparge, remove the plug on differential and check to see that the fluid level is within 1/4" of the the plug hole. To drain the rear just remove the cover and reinstall with a new gasket and refill it till fluid comes out of the hole then plug it.
---------- Post added at 02:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:35 AM ----------
BTW replace and rubber component that has been in contact with brake fluid or P/S fluid if you have not done so already as they will deteriorate quickly.
Similar threads
