Built in Air Compressor (for tires)

[Matthew Jeschke]

I'm thinking of getting one of these ARB air compressors. My friend got one and it seems to work nicely. I currently have a Viair in a bag that sits in back of my Tahoe but I don't like that it takes up space on the interior. I want to make a bracket and mount it where the optional air ride / auto leveling compressor goes (frame rail by fuel tank behind tire. Anybody done that?

Single Motor Onboard 12V Air Compressor CKMA12

Air Compressor

store.arbusa.com

I'm hitting myself on the head. I found an open box one a while back for $250 and didn't snag it.

 

[Sparksalot]

I mounted the same compressor in the second battery tray in thethirdtwin.

Before that I was using Viair 88P, just keeping it from touching anything after use was a pain.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Oh cool. I have the 88p myself. I love it but it's just floating in back of my truck. I want to install something built in now. I like that second battery tray idea! Maybe I could put mine where the air pump goes (my truck doesn't have the smog pump). Great idea! Thanks!

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Got the ARB CKMA12. Specifically didn't want a knock off and was lucky to find a deal for used one on eBay, came in at $150 shipped. The harness needs some modification to fit my truck. Couple questions there...

Battery terminal block: I have several modifications that tap into my battery, it's getting to be a mess as I've just screwed them into the battery terminal. I need to mount a terminal block somewhere with battery positive lugs. I did try the ones off the under hood fuse block but that blows the fuses on the fuse block. Would be ideal if I had a terminal block for battery positive with say 40 amp fuse on it then I could remove some of the inline fuses. Any suggestions?

Wire Spec: I'm thinking a 6 gauge wire for power would be good. That should handle 40 to 50 amps (pump is fused at 40). I will get copper wire, however, my head spins beyond that. I want high temp rated, and none of that edible stuff made from soy or whatever that the rodents eat. Anybody know the wire type?

Above is where it probably should go and will go. It fits very well where the factory smog pump would be if I had one.

Otherwise, the factory auto ride pump goes where I have it below. I'd really like to put it there but keeping it out of water, mud, etc would be quite hard there. Also easy for somebody to steal it there.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Got the ARB CKMA12. Specifically didn't want a knock off and was lucky to find a deal for used one on eBay, came in at $150 shipped. The harness needs some modification to fit my truck. Couple questions there...

Battery terminal block: I have several modifications that tap into my battery, it's getting to be a mess as I've just screwed them into the battery terminal. I need to mount a terminal block somewhere with battery positive lugs. I did try the ones off the under hood fuse block but that blows the fuses on the fuse block. Would be ideal if I had a terminal block for battery positive with say 40 amp fuse on it then I could remove some of the inline fuses. Any suggestions?

Wire Spec: I'm thinking a 6 gauge wire for power would be good. That should handle 40 to 50 amps (pump is fused at 40). I will get copper wire, however, my head spins beyond that. I want high temp rated, and none of that edible stuff made from soy or whatever that the rodents eat. Anybody know the wire type?

View attachment 467597

Above is where it probably should go and will go. It fits very well where the factory smog pump would be if I had one.

Otherwise, the factory auto ride pump goes where I have it below. I'd really like to put it there but keeping it out of water, mud, etc would be quite hard there. Also easy for somebody to steal it there.

View attachment 467598

Ever see those cars with big mega watt stereos? I've seen them use these big block type things on top of the positive lug on the battery--the exact name escapes me. Know what I'm talking about? I bet that would solve your issue. Hopefully @Thatsquishykid717 will chime in. He has a megawatt system in his Tahoe.

 

[Pressureangle]

It's a great add, and easy. If you have a junkyard that takes motorhomes, old diesels quite often have a very high-quality electric compressor for the exhaust brakes. It won't have one if it has air brakes, so look for the crappy ones from the 80s-90s. I got one for $5 because they couldn't verify it worked.

 

[Thatsquishykid717]

Ever see those cars with big mega watt stereos? I've seen them use these big block type things on top of the positive lug on the battery--the exact name escapes me. Know what I'm talking about? I bet that would solve your issue. Hopefully @Thatsquishykid717 will chime in. He has a megawatt system in his Tahoe.

Yes I posted about this in my build thread! you can get some flat 4 or 6 spot terminals for the side post battery. Mine were from sky high car audio. I used 3/8-16 Allen bolts iirc. Worked great.

 

[Thatsquishykid717]

I have since deleted my underhood battery but these are the same terminals.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Any ideas on what under hood cabling is good for 40 amps? I looked at summit racing and they didn't have much selection under 10 gauge (too small). I think charts show I need 8 gauge or better.

Ever see those cars with big mega watt stereos? I've seen them use these big block type things on top of the positive lug on the battery--the exact name escapes me. Know what I'm talking about? I bet that would solve your issue. Hopefully @Thatsquishykid717 will chime in. He has a megawatt system in his Tahoe.

Yes I posted about this in my build thread! you can get some flat 4 or 6 spot terminals for the side post battery. Mine were from sky high car audio. I used 3/8-16 Allen bolts iirc. Worked great.

Great suggestion! Thanks! I think that'll work.

It's a great add, and easy. If you have a junkyard that takes motorhomes, old diesels quite often have a very high-quality electric compressor for the exhaust brakes. It won't have one if it has air brakes, so look for the crappy ones from the 80s-90s. I got one for $5 because they couldn't verify it worked.

You'll have me searching junkyards now for air pumps! Another excellent suggestion. It's long been my opinion a truck, especially a heavy duty truck should have one of these compressors built in! In the LEAST they should be offering it as an option. I'd also like to see some sort of reasonably or at least modestly usable AC power being offered. Truck manufacturers are slowly putting those in but the power output is barely enough to charge a modern phone.

 

[Thatsquishykid717]

Any ideas on what under hood cabling is good for 40 amps? I looked at summit racing and they didn't have much selection under 10 gauge (too small). I think charts show I need 8 gauge or better.




Great suggestion! Thanks! I think that'll work.



You'll have me searching junkyards now for air pumps! Another excellent suggestion. It's long been my opinion a truck, especially a heavy duty truck should have one of these compressors built in! In the LEAST they should be offering it as an option. I'd also like to see some sort of reasonably or at least modestly usable AC power being offered. Truck manufacturers are slowly putting those in but the power output is barely enough to charge a modern phone.

Find a local welding supply place and get some weld cable. they should have it on spools. Or you can order it online as well.

 

[Fless]

Find a local welding supply place and get some weld cable. they should have it on spools. Or you can order it online as well.

Or a local farm store, if you have those around. Tractor Supply, Murdoch's, Farm and Fleet, etc.

 

[dps01]

I mounted the same compressor in the second battery tray in thethirdtwin.

Before that I was using Viair 88P, just keeping it from touching anything after use was a pain.

SPARE PARTS VERSION…
Also mounted on a modified passenger side battery tray.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Thanks great tips on welding wire!

That junkyard pump looks OEM. Super cool!

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Oh man this has been SUPER annoying. You'd think it'd be easier to buy multistrand copper wire with a temperature rating for under hood (250+F). Maybe I don't need to go that hot?

Summit racing can get red rated to 250F but want black for the ground, and that's only rated to 165F . I went to several hardware stores that sell welding supplies NONE had any welding wire in stock.

If I ordered 10 gauge wire I could get in any variety I want but seems that is only rated for 30 amps. The wire from the ARB harness appears to be is 8 gauge and fuse is 40 amps.

Can I get away with 165F wire under the hood? If so my local parts store sells 8 gauge by the foot HERE

 

[Sparksalot]

Oh man this has been SUPER annoying. You'd think it'd be easier to buy multistrand copper wire with a temperature rating for under hood (250+F). Maybe I don't need to go that hot?

Summit racing can get red rated to 250F but want black for the ground, and that's only rated to 165F . I went to several hardware stores that sell welding supplies NONE had any welding wire in stock.

If I ordered 10 gauge wire I could get in any variety I want but seems that is only rated for 30 amps. The wire from the ARB harness appears to be is 8 gauge and fuse is 40 amps.

Can I get away with 165F wire under the hood? If so my local parts store sells 8 gauge by the foot HERE

See if you can find stranded wire with XHHW insulation. That is 90 degrees C.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I ended up digging deeper through Painless Performance (wiring harness company) website. They rated their TXL 10 Gauge at 50 amps. I ordered it... 8 gauge is almost impossible to find for under hood temps.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Anybody have the smog pump in their truck? I'm curious how they mount that... I may take a little inspiration from that to mount the compressor.