Pretty sure the exhaust is not an issue on the 2500 series, I have not had a chance to peek under one. 2 wheel drive might have more clearance as well. The trans pan is larger and uses a different gasket and may take slightly more fluid.
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The 2500 may be an easier DIY, albeit it could get messy if you do not get on the shallow concrete mixing pans from Home Depot or Lowe's for $8 as this is a GREAT drain pan for transmission and cooling system work.
Video below gives you a better idea, I just do not know if the 2WD and 4WD have the same access with exhaust.
A note on the "Drain Plug" in the pan, it is NOT a "Drain Plug", this is a bottom fill with a standpipe, actually a genius way to fill and set the fluid level of the transmission. SO MUCH WRONG INFOMATION about setting the fluid level in these transmissions.
In the video below you will see fluid draining out when the "Fill/Check Plug" is removed, this is because the fluid level MUST be checked with the engine running. If the "Fill/Check Plug" is removed when the engine is running, there should not be fluid draining out the port.
While the video is pretty good, it is unclear if the final level check in the video is while the engine is running. I believe the content provider just edited the first removal of the "Fill/Check Plug" in from the beginning of the video due to the fluid color.
Anyway, if the valve body is not removed, the cooler loop should not really drain any fluid out so the STUPID and DANGEROUS method of raising the fluid temperature to 176F is not necessary.
Fill the transmission from either the "Fill/Check Plug" if equipped, I think only the 10L1000 have them and maybe not all of the 10L1000 have the "Fill/Check Plug" and make sure the final level is set while the engine is idling and the fluid temperature is between 100-120F. If you choose/need to fill from the upper case fill plug, leave the "Fill/Check Plug" out, fill from the upper case fill plug while the engine is off, once fluid starts to drip/drain from the "Fill/Check Plug" start the engine, easy with the Remote Start on the keyfob, then continue to fill the transmission until the fluid just starts to trickle out of the pan "Fill/Check Plug" then put "Fill/Check Plug" in and tighten WHILE the engine is running, then replace the upper case fill plug BEFORE you shut the engine off.
I could do it in my driveway as well but a part of me knows I'm gonna make a giant mess with the old fluid lol.If the truck is not too old an the exhaust studs are in good shape, it is not a hard job, just a PITA job.
For that kind of money, DIY, put a pan with a drain plug and lots of Antiseize on the exhaust studs if you have to drop the exhaust in the future for a filter change.
I probably did this in under 3 hours in the driveway and this was figuring out what tools were needed and having to get the O2 sensor tool to remove and reinstall it.