BREAKING: GM is officially recalling the L87

[BADRIDES]

@jfoj
Just stopped in my GMC dealer.

They have confirmed my vehicle will get the N*000 inspection and either a new engine or 0-40 oil recommendation. I asked if, given I have 1000+ mile towing trip on Thursday, if we can/should change the oil to 0-40. They spoke to shop foreman, he said if we do that, it could interfere/mask symptoms on the test. Seemed reasonable, so I requested we go ahead and do the inspection. Their hands are tied by GM, if they do it now, before my vehicle gets to “open status” (currently in “incomplete, remedy not available”), they don’t get paid.

Very true

 

[cornicekurt]

Please keep this civil. I cleaned up several posts and almost ready to lock this thread. I knew from the get-go this thread would go sideways just didn't know when.

Once again keep it civil.
Thank You!

Every crowd

 

[cornicekurt]

My Neighbors 2022 Denali XL just ate a bearing at 51K miles. This is a pretty unbelievable situation.

Keep us posted on this please

 

[BacDoc]

YES! You also should slap around the schmendrick that gave you the idea that it isn't, seriously.
Entire point of Tow / Haul mode is to protect the powertrain from the extra load.
Tow / Haul mode is a bad idea is when you're trying to save every last drop of fuel.
When you're Towing / Hauling, it's the POINT.

Switching to the mode that protects the transmission & reduces the amount of Cylinder Confusion should be done ASAP!
You should also make far more use of L9 mode, which drastically reduces the Cylinder Confusion duty cycle.

About a month ago I installed Carbyte and I think that keeps my motor full V8, at least that’s what they say.

 

[tagexpcom]

You can switch modes on the fly. If that was not something GM thought was a good idea, they would lock the feature out while in motion.

I believe Tow mode disables the Active Grille Shutters and alters the shift points and TCC engagement..

I have changed on the fly many times.

I always forget and switch to tow mode some moments or an hour after I start towing - no issue with doing it on the fly
Tow also enables down hill breaking via the engine - works well. I live in mountainous part of the country and always going up or down 6% grades.

Bought my 2021 Yukon with 6.2L used an 49K miles - was a Hertz rental. Have added 12K all towing 5,500lb trailer. No trouble so far....

I'll probably just stick with 0-20W until I get the recall notice and then go from there. General discussions are good but ultimately one has to make a decision on their 'personal case' - and of course I have no data on my own engine to make any decisions except it's running OK at 61K miles.

 

[jfoj]

@jfoj
Just stopped in my GMC dealer.

They have confirmed my vehicle will get the N*000 inspection and either a new engine or 0-40 oil recommendation. I asked if, given I have 1000+ mile towing trip on Thursday, if we can/should change the oil to 0-40. They spoke to shop foreman, he said if we do that, it could interfere/mask symptoms on the test. Seemed reasonable, so I requested we go ahead and do the inspection. Their hands are tied by GM, if they do it now, before my vehicle gets to “open status” (currently in “incomplete, remedy not available”), they don’t get paid.

My service advisor understands and empathizes with my dilemma. He is going to reach out to the district GM rep on Monday to see if they can open my VIN up to get this done before I leave (of course, if it fails, I’m begging for a loaner tow vehicle…). But, the advice from the Certified Master Tech is don’t change oi

What I would suggest is change the oil before the trip to 0W40. This will hopefully keep you from having a catastrophic failure while on the trip. If your engine "Passes" the Recall "knock test" you will be running 0W40 anyway in the near future.

Then change back to 0W20 before the Recall is performed. The dealer will give you a new oil change either way, either with a new motor or new 0W40.

If the engine fails on the trip out of town, you would be spending a lot more than the oil change in time, money and delay.

If you are worried about the dealer getting involved, change the oil yourself or have it done at an independent. Make sure you get your own oil as 0W40 may be in short supply.

 

[vcode]

What I would suggest is change the oil before the trip to 0W40. This will hopefully keep you from having a catastrophic failure while on the trip. If your engine "Passes" the Recall "knock test" you will be running 0W40 anyway in the near future.

Then change back to 0W20 before the Recall is performed. The dealer will give you a new oil change either way, either with a new motor or new 0W40.

If the engine fails on the trip out of town, you would be spending a lot more than the oil change in time, money and delay.

If you are worried about the dealer getting involved, change the oil yourself or have it done at an independent. Make sure you get your own oil as 0W40 may be in short supply.

"If" his motor is that close to failing, changing to 40W ain't going to help him. Plus, there is a 99% chance he will be just fine.

 

[jfoj]

But 0W40 is not going to hurt it.

Glad your 99% sure it will be fine, GM seems to think much differently.

 

[Marky Dissod]

About a month ago I installed Carbyte, and I
think
that keeps my motor full V8, at least that’s what they say.

My understanding is that 0-cylinder mode may still be possible during certain 0% throttle events ... ?

 

[PPV_2018]

My understanding is that 0-cylinder mode may still be possible during certain 0% throttle events ... ?

This has been claimed by members here — yet other members have claimed that it indeed does fully disable 0 cyl mode under all circumstances, but apparently nobody knows for sure (ie: can provide definitive evidence for us to decipher). but it certainly would appear that DFM may still be active during DFCO

I know DFM and AFM are completely different in practice, but in another thread long ago i did note that the Range unit for AFM illuminates brightly when under throttle - but fades to a dim light when coasting or when brakes are applied. . .

Does that mean anything? I dunno. Maybe, maybe not. Just speculation, but obviously has been programmed by the mfg to behave that way, it’s not just to look cool. The light is there to let you know the unit is working as designed, so when the light fades to barely noticeable during coasting or idle, i interpret as “AFM disable NOT active . . . during coasting or idle”.

have to imagine the DFM disabler works in a similar method.

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

What I would suggest is change the oil before the trip to 0W40. This will hopefully keep you from having a catastrophic failure while on the trip. If your engine "Passes" the Recall "knock test" you will be running 0W40 anyway in the near future.

Then change back to 0W20 before the Recall is performed. The dealer will give you a new oil change either way, either with a new motor or new 0W40.

If the engine fails on the trip out of town, you would be spending a lot more than the oil change in time, money and delay.

If you are worried about the dealer getting involved, change the oil yourself or have it done at an independent. Make sure you get your own oil as 0W40 may be in short supply.

I’m sticking with the advice of the Shop Foreman at the dealer (Certified Master Technician). I know my dealer has my back if this goes the wrong way.

 

[viven44]

What I would suggest is change the oil before the trip to 0W40. This will hopefully keep you from having a catastrophic failure while on the trip. If your engine "Passes" the Recall "knock test" you will be running 0W40 anyway in the near future.

Then change back to 0W20 before the Recall is performed. The dealer will give you a new oil change either way, either with a new motor or new 0W40.

If the engine fails on the trip out of town, you would be spending a lot more than the oil change in time, money and delay.

If you are worried about the dealer getting involved, change the oil yourself or have it done at an independent. Make sure you get your own oil as 0W40 may be in short supply.

If all of this is done, the odds of getting a new engine is lower (maybe for good or bad).

By the time he is back from the trip the oil will be used up some more, it would be a sort of worst case scenario, if that engine is still passing the picoscope test, maybe it is truly going to survive in the long run with 0W-40, as the odds of passing the picoscope test also goes down.

Picoscope test passing odds by oil type (most likely to least likely)
- 0W-40 oil
- New 0W-20 oil
- Used up 0W-20 oil

If the desired end state is long-term longevity, maybe best to take the chances and go on the trip with 0W-20. Worst case - yes its a large towing expense, but a better long-term prospect.

 

[Scarey]

I no longer have a dog in the 6.2 fight. Range definitely minimized the number cylinder deactivations, not sure about the dfco mode. I was really surprised we didn’t have somebody in the know who could definitely explain how range interacted in dfco. I’m now a babymax fan. It’s only going to take a couple million miles of use to capture the fuel mileage savings to cover my cost on trade. However, a diesel Tahoe is cooler than sheeeet.

 

[vcode]

But 0W40 is not going to hurt it.

Glad your 99% sure it will be fine, GM seems to think much differe

1

But 0W40 is not going to hurt it.

Glad your 99% sure it will be fine, GM seems to think much differently.

I doubt 1% of these engines will fail in the next week or 1400 miles.

 

[Marky Dissod]

1% of these engines will not fail in the next week or 1400 miles.

You weren't trying to say
'99% of these engines WILL fail in the next week / 1400 miles'?

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

1

1% of these engines will not fail in the next week or 1400 miles.

You weren't trying to say
'99% of these engines WILL fail in the next week / 1400 miles'?

I actually think both are true.

Guessing that less than 1% of all the 6.2’s out there will fail in the next 1400 miles or 7 days.

If the failure rate had been this high, the dealers would all be stacked 20 deep waiting on engines. Heck, we don’t even see this failure rate on the forum.

 

[Polo08816]

I actually think both are true.

Guessing that less than 1% of all the 6.2’s out there will fail in the next 1400 miles or 7 days.

If the failure rate had been this high, the dealers would all be stacked 20 deep waiting on engines. Heck, we don’t even see this failure rate on the forum.

I thought the failure rate is 3% which is a pretty high failure rate from this issue alone. Imagine aggregating this failure with all the other types of failures. Wonder what the true failure rate for all cases for the 6.2 would be.

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

I thought the failure rate is 3% which is a pretty high failure rate from this issue alone. Imagine aggregating this failure with all the other types of failures. Wonder what the true failure rate for all cases for the 6.2 would be.

The total fail rate is 3%.

But to have 1% of all of them fail in the next 7 days or 1400 miles is unlikely…

 

[jfoj]

Not sure where you guys keep getting 3%. That is only what GM fessed up to for loss of propulsion to the NHTSA. The real number is likely over 6% because there have been approx 30k failures and this does not include out of warranty, non dealers replacements, out of US and failed replacement engines .

Also realize this forum only has 100k members and the majority of the member own older models.

Also understand that towing or traveling loaded is different than around town light duty usage.

 

[Stbentoak]

Worst case - yes its a large towing expense, but a better long-term prospect.

The worst-case scenario is you are out in BFE in Canada with your boat behind you and its hours and hours before anyone (If anyone...) can come help you and when they do..... they make you leave your boat, and you don't know how you'll get back to it. And then a Canadian dealer says you'll need to get it back to the states to get it fixed. All the while the cash register is spinning.....