What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Tonyrodz

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Driver seat work…
New lower seat leather
New lower seat cushion
New upper / lower heating elements.
New armrest cover.

Aside from multiple cuts and abrasions not a bad job… just takes time…. Not a bad way to spend a Saturday :D
What a difference. Old one didn't look in bad shape either.
 

dps01

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What a difference. Old one didn't look in bad shape either.
Old cushion was broke down and caused the side of the lower seat cover to crack / deteriorate…. It was actually worse than it looks in the 1st photo.

Cushion is very firm… especially compared to the wore out original. Looking forward to breaking it in this summer on the long-haul family vacation.

Need to remember not to slide out of the seat to reduce wear and tear on the new setup.
 
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Tonyrodz

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Old cushion was broke down and caused the side of the lower seat cover to crack / deteriorate…. It was actually worse than it looks in the 1st photo.

Cushion is very firm… especially considering the shape the old one was in. Looking forward to breaking it in this summer on the long-haul family vacation.

Need to remember not to slide out of the seat to reduce wear and tear on the new setup.
Yup, jeans are the worst for leather. Sliding in and out wearing those really tears it up--causes more damage to cloth seats.
 

dps01

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The original….
 

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Scottydoggs

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the hoe got the day off, i took the day off work, and went roll racing at the racemotive event at pocano raceway in PA with my camaro. i got lucky and a guy (not so lucky) on a team of 7 blew his clutch and was not able to make it, and you can sell/transfer your ticket, it fell in my lap, had to go. 65 mph start or less at the green cone and let it eat. its a lot harder then it looks missed the mark 3 times. one of a 2 that counted i started at 60 and topped out at 139.9 or something like that. one where i started at 71 i topped out at 143. first time doing this, just been drag racing, so this was a whole new deal for me. but a boat load of fun all the same.

 

S33k3r

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Finally had my rear main leak fixed after 9 years And they broke off the bolt that holds the bracket for the wire harness on the transmission. Of course. Not sure what to do to secure it, it’s just hanging there. Too close to the frame for me to drill it out or try an ez out I think. Only thing I haven’t done on this truck besides tires and alignments ever.
If you can't get the shop to fix their work, I suggest getting a bracket, a new bolt and a new nut. This will allow you to use the factor setup, for the most part. You would then JB Weld -- or similar -- the bracket on your transmission, then put the bolt and harness in just like factory.
 

DurrtyBurB

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Due to the offset on the Tundra wheels I added a 1.5” hub centric in the rear to bring them out closer to the fenders. I saw one the heater core tees seep coolant. When I went to tighten the clamp, it broke off . Took the opportunity to get the all metal Dorman tees for both.
 

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Fless

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Due to the offset on the Tundra wheels I added a 1.5” hub centric in the rear to bring them out closer to the fenders. I saw one the heater core tees seep coolant. When I went to tighten the clamp, it broke off . Took the opportunity to get the all metal Dorman tees for both.

These Dorman metal tees are interesting, but I wonder what "metal" they are made of. Kind of wondering if there will be any reaction between the heater tubes on the SUVs and these.
 
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clandr1

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What method did you use?
Before, I’ve detached input and output hoses and lifted the front end to go lock to lock 30 times to accomplish a full exchange but it was a total pain in the ass. This time I decided to use a tube to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir and refill with fresh fluid. I’ll drive it for a week or two and do it again.
 
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89Suburban

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Before, I’ve detached input and output hoses and lifted the front end to go lock to lock 30 times to accomplish a full exchange but it was a total pain in the ass. This time I secured to use a tube to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir and refill with fresh fluid. I’ll drive it for a week or two and do it again.
This^^
 

Rocket Man

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Before, I’ve detached input and output hoses and lifted the front end to go lock to lock 30 times to accomplish a full exchange but it was a total pain in the ass. This time I decided to use a tube to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir and refill with fresh fluid. I’ll drive it for a week or two and do it again.
I don t remember exactly how but I know I removed either the high or low pressure line and put the dirty output in a bucket as I went L to L until the fluid was clear. I added new fluid as I went.
 

latvius

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Before, I’ve detached input and output hoses and lifted the front end to go lock to lock 30 times to accomplish a full exchange but it was a total pain in the ass. This time I decided to use a tube to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir and refill with fresh fluid. I’ll drive it for a week or two and do it again.
I just sprung a leak in the hydroboost and changed it through attrition :p
 

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