What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Charlie207

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Sounds good. I like a bit more rumble/growl. Sounds like you were having fun!

I just bought some mufflers to experiment with. The MBRP muffler I removed last summer had too much drone on the highway & cruising, but I think it may have been caused by the basic CAI from SpeedEngineering I was running. I had been swapping back/forth between the louvored MBRP can (no packing, though) and big/heavy straight-through AP Exhaust muffler (Magnaflow-style), and when I put the AP muffler on there was still drone, so I reinstalled the factory plastic dingleberry intake tubing, and the drone went away; imagine that!

Since I like tinkering, and don't like drone, I ordered one of these quarter-wave mufflers with a Helmholtz resonator built-in, and a small Dynomax bullet muffler to add if it needs any volume-reduction. I'll also need to buy some tubing to match the length of the longer AP muffler. The plan is to try just the fancy QW muffler & tube extention first, and see how it sounds. If there is drone, I'll add the Dynomax bullet, but wondering if placing the bullet upstream or downstream of the QW muffler will work better.

I want the burble and bark of the MBRP can, but not the annoying drone while cruising, but the AP muffler (which is pretty nice, fwiw) is a little too quiet for my taste. The worst part is that there has been so much rain, and more to come, that I have to wait to play with them.
 

Doubeleive

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Well, shit. I did a bunch of reading and there were a ton of positive reviews, so I rolled the dice. I put a mix of Duralast uppers and Moog lowers on my '07 a few years ago because I needed the parts same day and that's all the local stores had. The rubber boots on the lowers are cracked and about torn. I would've gone OEM this time but all Rockauto had in stock were the ACDelco gold. They were out of GM Genuine lowers.


That's a new one for me. I've never even heard of a broken cotter pin on a ball joint. I will buy good cotter pins from the local Napa, so thanks for that warning.
you might be ok with them, One guy had put them on his escalade his was rebuilding for his wife a while back I was waiting to see how they had worked out over the last couple years but he doesn't update very often and I think he ended up selling it or something, finding personal verifiable feedback on the brand has been scant. I was poking around the thought of using them at one point but kinda drifted away and decided OEM would be the best choice for myself with moog being questionable and other stuff being completely unknown or known as not lasting very long it just kinda solidified it for me
the key sometimes buying aftemarket is warranty, mevotech has lifetime warranty on some of there products it then boils down to where it was purchased, as long as it was (the manufacturer) or a authorized dealer and they honor the lifetime warranty then it just boils down to R&R time/labor/down time should it fail. some places only give 30 days, 90 days or 1 year even though the manufacture offers more

I take for instance something like "coldcase" I took the risk of buying one, it took a good 3 months for it to be in stock and ship, it lasted 30 days and started to leak I was willing to use a 2nd one but gXXdam it, still out of stock and I wasn't going to wait another 90 days or who knows how long for another one so I just returned it for a refund and haven't looked back.
 

LSCALADE

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Gave the old girl a good wash, will need to do some good rust stop and some repair before we put the Z71 fender flares.

Here is how she looks today.
1746548094529.png


This is how it started 3months ago.
I think I totaly overpaid for it but I am making the best of it. 2011 Canadian spec, has 208k miles. Trans shudder, low oil pressure, the usual stuff not working and I am utilizing this forum and the FB groups to slwoly fix most of whats wrong with it. Its main duty will be kid hauler down dirt roads which is why I want the offroad capability and that influcences many of my modification choices.

1746548273068.png



List of parts changed to this day:

- Oil Pump and O Ring
- Water Pump
- All pulleys
- Alternator
- Thermostat
- New Cluster in MPH instead of KPH
- Fixed the suspension errors.
- Installed front struts properly on top of control arms instead of on the bottom.
- Has Gen5 front and rear brakes waiting to be installed.
- Side steps from avalanche coming soon. The power fold ones do not properly fold.
 

Charlie207

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Gave the old girl a good wash, will need to do some good rust stop and some repair before we put the Z71 fender flares.

Here is how she looks today.
View attachment 456540

This is how it started 3months ago.
I think I totaly overpaid for it but I am making the best of it. 2011 Canadian spec, has 208k miles. Trans shudder, low oil pressure, the usual stuff not working and I am utilizing this forum and the FB groups to slwoly fix most of whats wrong with it. Its main duty will be kid hauler down dirt roads which is why I want the offroad capability and that influcences many of my modification choices.

View attachment 456542


List of parts changed to this day:

- Oil Pump and O Ring
- Water Pump
- All pulleys
- Alternator
- Thermostat
- New Cluster in MPH instead of KPH
- Fixed the suspension errors.
- Installed front struts properly on top of control arms instead of on the bottom.
- Has Gen5 front and rear brakes waiting to be installed.
- Side steps from avalanche coming soon. The power fold ones do not properly fold.

Looks great. What wheels are those?
 

Geotrash

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you might be ok with them, One guy had put them on his escalade his was rebuilding for his wife a while back I was waiting to see how they had worked out over the last couple years but he doesn't update very often and I think he ended up selling it or something, finding personal verifiable feedback on the brand has been scant. I was poking around the thought of using them at one point but kinda drifted away and decided OEM would be the best choice for myself with moog being questionable and other stuff being completely unknown or known as not lasting very long it just kinda solidified it for me
the key sometimes buying aftemarket is warranty, mevotech has lifetime warranty on some of there products it then boils down to where it was purchased, as long as it was (the manufacturer) or a authorized dealer and they honor the lifetime warranty then it just boils down to R&R time/labor/down time should it fail. some places only give 30 days, 90 days or 1 year even though the manufacture offers more

I take for instance something like "coldcase" I took the risk of buying one, it took a good 3 months for it to be in stock and ship, it lasted 30 days and started to leak I was willing to use a 2nd one but gXXdam it, still out of stock and I wasn't going to wait another 90 days or who knows how long for another one so I just returned it for a refund and haven't looked back.
These are the ones I bought, and they do have a lifetime warranty. I've gotten to the point though where it's about an hour and a half per side to get these done, so not a big deal if I have to replace them in 5 years.

 

Doubeleive

Wes
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These are the ones I bought, and they do have a lifetime warranty. I've gotten to the point though where it's about an hour and a half per side to get these done, so not a big deal if I have to replace them in 5 years.

decent price the oem lower arms are $300+ each, dealer wanted $1k each :eek:
 

LSCALADE

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Looks great. What wheels are those?
Ram 1500 wheels 18" factory 5 spoke design it was available as an option on base trucks to step up from steel to aluminum. Imposter sells wheel covers, so for around 50$ I was able to get the shiny black plastic skins to turn the silver wheels into black wheels and actually protect the wheels as they were brand new take offs. Sometimes I miss the silver wheel look but this works out for now and they take 1min to remove.

Here is how they look when uncovered.
1746562917098.png
 

Tonyrodz

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I just bought some mufflers to experiment with. The MBRP muffler I removed last summer had too much drone on the highway & cruising, but I think it may have been caused by the basic CAI from SpeedEngineering I was running. I had been swapping back/forth between the louvored MBRP can (no packing, though) and big/heavy straight-through AP Exhaust muffler (Magnaflow-style), and when I put the AP muffler on there was still drone, so I reinstalled the factory plastic dingleberry intake tubing, and the drone went away; imagine that!

Since I like tinkering, and don't like drone, I ordered one of these quarter-wave mufflers with a Helmholtz resonator built-in, and a small Dynomax bullet muffler to add if it needs any volume-reduction. I'll also need to buy some tubing to match the length of the longer AP muffler. The plan is to try just the fancy QW muffler & tube extention first, and see how it sounds. If there is drone, I'll add the Dynomax bullet, but wondering if placing the bullet upstream or downstream of the QW muffler will work better.

I want the burble and bark of the MBRP can, but not the annoying drone while cruising, but the AP muffler (which is pretty nice, fwiw) is a little too quiet for my taste. The worst part is that there has been so much rain, and more to come, that I have to wait to play with them.
I had the MBRP on my 03. It was pretty loud but sounded good. The drone was insane tho. I also had a cai.
 

Doubeleive

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j91z28d1

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Charlie207

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Anyone had luck replacing their camshaft position sensor? Or are they all a real SOB to replace?
I've swapped a couple out. It can be a pain, especially with older sensors that seem to expand ever-so-slightly. Have to remove the serpentine belt, and you can reach down in there to unbolt it, or it might be easier removing the splash guard, and laying on your back to reach up to undo the small bolts.

If it twists you can work it out. I had one that was seized in there and I had to attack it with long/skinny vice-grips. That was a pita.
 

Geoffsfas10

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Anyone had luck replacing their camshaft position sensor? Or are they all a real SOB to replace?
Mine wasnt too bad. Take the intake tube off, and yoy have access from abovr to pry on it with a really long screw driver, as well as the bottom. I also used a pair of 90° pliers to help get it started. Once it starts to come out, it just pops the rest of the way.


I replaced front rotors, no more brake shudder coming down from highway speed. 127k on the original rotors and still plenty of meat if i wanted to turn them.

Lastly...anyone habe thoughts on the Naviks video in motion modules? Yes its expensive but the factory h/u does everything i need it too. Have another 2000 mile road trip comjng up, and having the unloxk would be nice
 

Doubeleive

Wes
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Mine wasnt too bad. Take the intake tube off, and yoy have access from abovr to pry on it with a really long screw driver, as well as the bottom. I also used a pair of 90° pliers to help get it started. Once it starts to come out, it just pops the rest of the way.


I replaced front rotors, no more brake shudder coming down from highway speed. 127k on the original rotors and still plenty of meat if i wanted to turn them.

Lastly...anyone habe thoughts on the Naviks video in motion modules? Yes its expensive but the factory h/u does everything i need it too. Have another 2000 mile road trip comjng up, and having the unloxk would be nice
it should work but that head unit was the first thing i yanked I had already been using newer dvd/nav headunits with android and video in motion for years and years before I bought my 12 so it had to go.....
 

alpha_omega

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I've swapped a couple out. It can be a pain, especially with older sensors that seem to expand ever-so-slightly. Have to remove the serpentine belt, and you can reach down in there to unbolt it, or it might be easier removing the splash guard, and laying on your back to reach up to undo the small bolts.

If it twists you can work it out. I had one that was seized in there and I had to attack it with long/skinny vice-grips. That was a pita.
I had the harmonic balancer off and I could get it to spin, but not come out. I was worried about breaking the tab off or having to drill and tap into it with a slide hammer. That method doesn’t work. I’ll give the prying and 90° pliers a go after a dosage of Kroil.
 

Geoffsfas10

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it should work but that head unit was the first thing i yanked I had already been using newer dvd/nav headunits with android and video in motion for years and years before I bought my 12 so it had to go.....
I've still got the JVC dvd unit from my Sierra, sitting in a box in my basement. I'd consider using it, its just adapters id need BUT the big thing is i dont want to give up my XM radio, and i cant get the XM tuner that works with that unit anymore.

By the time Im in a new unit and all the stuff still needed, im way more then the Naviks unit. And honestly for me, the factory stuff is working just fine for me
 

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