Amp/Subwoofer issues

[deadscope25]

ok so my grandfather recently gave me his 01 4x4 base model Tahoe as a gift for helping him tear out the trans an rebuilding all that good stuff well im a huge music guy so i decided to put in a aftermarket amp an sub (not knowing much about the Chevy i usually drive my Durango) well i replaced all the door speakers with Kenwood's 8 in an replace the factory radio with a aftermarket double din from Walmart (non touch or digital screen) then threw in my amp (massive b1500.4 /2500 watt amp series) an my subwoofers (2 kickers 2 audio planets) 4 subs in all well it was working great then it was cutting over due to over heating so i replaced the fuse didn't have a issue well about a few days ago the amp went out an wont paly anything the amp powers on checked with a volt meter its getting power 12-(highest it hit was like 12.9) so everything was wired correctly then i noticed it was stuck in protect mode which on massives site its unusual for these amps so i checked the wiring harness for the radio everything was correct had bought the aftermarket wiring kit for it common sense matching colors from the radio to the aftermarket harness checked the fuses all were good so after giving up an no one wanting to help me or give them thousands of dollars i stumbled across the factory amp i used it for a good week an now the sub or the pillar speakers work the doors work perfectly but now i have no sound to the back of the car period again checked the fuses nothing was blown (as far as i researched there were 3 / 2 in the electrical center under the hood an one in the dirvers side door panel non were blown all getting good ampge so then i look at the factory amp pull the glove box out an check the voltage all everything good there door speakers work nicely subs aren't blown as well there brand new an tested them in the house on my stereo thumping like normal like I said I don't much about the suv i love it which is why I'm willing to invest into it this much much better then my Durango minus the heated seats an climate control took a hot like a champ an destoyed a ladys car who ran a red lightt an hit me butt anyways anyone ever had these issues its to the point where I'm about to go back to my Durango an just let the ****** sit i don't care to drive a car if i don't have my music so any help would help would be nice

AMP (Massive B1500.4 series - 2500 watt amp
Door speakers (8 in kenwoods (bs ones u buy from autozone))
SUBS ( 4, 10 inch subs /2 kickers, 2 audio planets ) brand new

 

[justirv]

ok so my grandfather recently gave me his 01 4x4 base model Tahoe as a gift for helping him tear out the trans an rebuilding all that good stuff well im a huge music guy so i decided to put in a aftermarket amp an sub (not knowing much about the Chevy i usually drive my Durango) well i replaced all the door speakers with Kenwood's 8 in an replace the factory radio with a aftermarket double din from Walmart (non touch or digital screen) then threw in my amp (massive b1500.4 /2500 watt amp series) an my subwoofers (2 kickers 2 audio planets) 4 subs in all well it was working great then it was cutting over due to over heating so i replaced the fuse didn't have a issue well about a few days ago the amp went out an wont paly anything the amp powers on checked with a volt meter its getting power 12-(highest it hit was like 12.9) so everything was wired correctly then i noticed it was stuck in protect mode which on massives site its unusual for these amps so i checked the wiring harness for the radio everything was correct had bought the aftermarket wiring kit for it common sense matching colors from the radio to the aftermarket harness checked the fuses all were good so after giving up an no one wanting to help me or give them thousands of dollars i stumbled across the factory amp i used it for a good week an now the sub or the pillar speakers work the doors work perfectly but now i have no sound to the back of the car period again checked the fuses nothing was blown (as far as i researched there were 3 / 2 in the electrical center under the hood an one in the dirvers side door panel non were blown all getting good ampge so then i look at the factory amp pull the glove box out an check the voltage all everything good there door speakers work nicely subs aren't blown as well there brand new an tested them in the house on my stereo thumping like normal like I said I don't much about the suv i love it which is why I'm willing to invest into it this much much better then my Durango minus the heated seats an climate control took a hot like a champ an destoyed a ladys car who ran a red lightt an hit me butt anyways anyone ever had these issues its to the point where I'm about to go back to my Durango an just let the ****** sit i don't care to drive a car if i don't have my music so any help would help would be nice

AMP (Massive B1500.4 series - 2500 watt amp
Door speakers (8 in kenwoods (bs ones u buy from autozone))
SUBS ( 4, 10 inch subs /2 kickers, 2 audio planets ) brand new

So I have several questions about your install. I see your main concern is the sub and amp, but I'll start at the head-end. How many watts per channel, and can it power or drive the wattage of your (new) door speakers? The reason I ask is if you are using the oem speaker wiring, it is being routed through an internal oem amp. There is a bypass connector that you can fabricate or purchase to eliminate the stock amp, which typically isn't helping with higher output or clarity. 2nd item, how did you power your sub amp? That should be a beefy (protected) dedicated wire, along with a suitable ground. Are you running the accessory 12v power to turn it on? (Thermal) Heat won't burn a fuse, overloading current will do that. Typically when I see excessive heat in an amp its due to an impedance mismatch, or, because its in an environmentally enclosed space and can't breathe. If your amp is going into "protection" mode, it could be your output/woofer connections; what impedance are your drivers, are they configured individually, in series, or parallel, and/or is the amp in bridged or standard mode?

 

[Doubeleive]

1st thing you need to do is bench test the amp to be sure it is working properly
usually protection mode means just that, 99% of the time it means the amp needs repair
either that or you have it wired wrong.
bench test it, if it passes then go back and double check how you have it wired in the vehicle.

 

[deadscope25]

So I have several questions about your install. I see your main concern is the sub and amp, but I'll start at the head-end. How many watts per channel, and can it power or drive the wattage of your (new) door speakers? The reason I ask is if you are using the oem speaker wiring, it is being routed through an internal oem amp. There is a bypass connector that you can fabricate or purchase to eliminate the stock amp, which typically isn't helping with higher output or clarity. 2nd item, how did you power your sub amp? That should be a beefy (protected) dedicated wire, along with a suitable ground. Are you running the accessory 12v power to turn it on? (Thermal) Heat won't burn a fuse, overloading current will do that. Typically when I see excessive heat in an amp its due to an impedance mismatch, or, because its in an environmentally enclosed space and can't breathe. If your amp is going into "protection" mode, it could be your output/woofer connections; what impedance are your drivers, are they configured individually, in series, or parallel, and/or is the amp in bridged or standard mode?

each sub is pulling 200-400amps i don't have the speakers wired to my aftermarket amp they (were) still using the factory amp but last night i tapped into the wires an wired them straight to the head unit but they work they were never the issue my issue is my rear pillar speakers (think there tweeters) aren't working an my stock sub isn't working (been replaced) i powered the amp with a battery line going straight to the battery to the amp with a 30amp fuse because it kept blowing the 20 amp an the grinded down my chasis with a grinder an bolted the ground wire to the chassis as far as the amp its not in a enclosed space its in the back trunk of my Tahoe with the subs but its close to the door while my subs are close to my back seat but honestly if i can get the factory subs an pillars to work or the other amp I'm fine ij want something to work because its becoming a headache lol i dont think my aftermarket amp is bad because when i attach the remote wire to the blue wires from my head unit i hear a brief thump sound from it turning on if pictures would help i can take some real quick to show you if a visual is needed

 

[Doubeleive]

well either the amp test's good or it doesn't, there's no middle ground on amps.
until you KNOW the amp is good or bad then there is no point
good luck

 

[deadscope25]

1st thing you need to do is bench test the amp to be sure it is working properly
usually protection mode means just that, 99% of the time it means the amp needs repair
either that or you have it wired wrong.
bench test it, if it passes then go back and double check how you have it wired in the veh

well either the amp test's good or it doesn't, there's no middle ground on amps.
until you KNOW the amp is good or bad then there is no point
good luck

as far as i know the amp is good its getting good power 12v non of the wires are mistouching the remotes getting volts as well when i disconnect the remote an re add it i hear a small thump in my sub ik its not the amp because my stock subs an rear pillar tweeters arent working either my subs are fine i tested them in the house an i tested the rear pillar tweets they work as well but when i plug anything into the fact amp or the Am amp nothing works

 

[Doubeleive]

as far as i know the amp is good its getting good power 12v non of the wires are mistouching the remotes getting volts as well when i disconnect the remote an re add it i hear a small thump in my sub ik its not the amp because my stock subs an rear pillar tweeters arent working either my subs are fine i tested them in the house an i tested the rear pillar tweets they work as well but when i plug anything into the fact amp or the Am amp nothing works

you can easily test the amp by plugging in any audio source with rca's so a 3.5mm jack to rca from your phone, ipod, ipad, laptop, anything will work that has audio out.
you could even connect a cd player, tv, anything.
if you only have a high output source, turn it down pretty low first before you plug it into the rca inputs, you can do it with 2 wires one on the inside ring and one on the outside ring. (some amp's have a high input option also)
once you know the amp is for sure working, then you move onto to other potential issue's
this is just basic troubleshooting procedure for audio
*as for the rear pillar speakers they have there own dedicated output from the factory amp behind the glove box on a 01

 

[deadscope25]

you can easily test the amp by plugging in any audio source with rca's so a 3.5mm jack to rca from your phone, ipod, ipad, laptop, anything will work that has audio out.
you could even connect a cd player, tv, anything.
if you only have a high output source, turn it down pretty low first before you plug it into the rca inputs, you can do it with 2 wires one on the inside ring and one on the outside ring. (some amp's have a high input option also)
once you know the amp is for sure working, then you move onto to other potential issue's
this is just basic troubleshooting procedure for audio
*as for the rear pillar speakers they have there own dedicated output from the factory amp behind the glove box on a 01

ok ill try that is there a reason my factory sub cables stop putting out? i can jsut tab into the rear pillars like i did the front an back doors speakers but what about the sub

 

[Doubeleive]

ok ill try that is there a reason my factory sub cables stop putting out? i can jsut tab into the rear pillars like i did the front an back doors speakers but what about the sub

subwoofer output "normally" should be rca from the back of the headunit to the amp input, you need like a 20' rca cable 15 minimum because it has to snake around from behind the headunit to the back, presuming the amp is in the back or under the 2nd row seats

 

[deadscope25]

subwoofer output "normally" should be rca from the back of the headunit to the amp input, you need like a 20' rca cable 15 minimum because it has to snake around from behind the headunit to the back, presuming the amp is in the back or under the 2nd row seats

no no no so im meaning the factory amp behind the dash board specifically behind the glove box its a 01 tahoe base trim it stop putting out sound to my rear pillars an my sub that comes with the car i replaced the sub but still no sound to either of the 3 speakers is there a way to bypass the factory subwoofer wires like i did the door speakers

 

[Doubeleive]

no no no so im meaning the factory amp behind the dash board specifically behind the glove box its a 01 tahoe base trim it stop putting out sound to my rear pillars an my sub that comes with the car i replaced the sub but still no sound to either of the 3 speakers is there a way to bypass the factory subwoofer wires like i did the door speakers

you said you replaced the headunit?
if so then unless you used a adapter that is specifically for a 00-02 and it gives you all the channels then all you will have is the door speaker output, not sure if even the factory sub would work, you have to check the adapter used to see what it provides the factory amp behind the glove box is a oddball amp, you pretty much have to manually wire up the rear pillar speakers for sure.

 

[Doubeleive]

and finding a correct wiring diagram for 00-02 is difficult, you'll have to get it from someone that either has a factory diagram or from a audio shop that has a subscription for the diagrams, tons of "wrong" ones on the internet
there are some 20 year old internet post's on it here and there but good luck finding one that shows anything helpful, maybe there is more info out there now I haven't looked in years

 

[deadscope25]

you said you replaced the headunit?
if so then unless you used a adapter that is specifically for a 00-02 and it gives you all the channels then all you will have is the door speaker output, not sure if even the factory sub would work, you have to check the adapter used to see what it provides the factory amp behind the glove box is a oddball amp, you pretty much have to manually wire up the rear pillar speakers for sure.

i replaced the head unit withh an 00-02 adapter the sub was working perfectly withh thhe after market radio noow it doesnt work at all

 

[Doubeleive]

i replaced the head unit withh an 00-02 adapter the sub was working perfectly withh thhe after market radio noow it doesnt work at all

then you should also check that the headunit outputs are all working as well, if the headunit took a dump it's not gonna work no matter what you try.
this is all basic troubleshooting, verify things are working otherwise you are chasing a shadow
if the headunit outputs are all good then move on to the adapter, be sure it has output as well
step-by-step a-to-b-to-c etc, somewhere along the line something has stopped working
at least on the gmt800's you can have that headunit out in like 2 minutes, super easy
on my 18 silverado pfft it takes a lot longer unless you want to destroy your trim, the wifes 16 you have to do all kinds of crap to get to the radio

 

[Doubeleive]

you put your foot on the brake, turn the key to run, shift the shifter down to 1st, tilt the steering wheel down, pull the trim piece off, remove 4 screws bam headunit out.

 

[deadscope25]

then you should also check that the headunit outputs are all working as well, if the headunit took a dump it's not gonna work no matter what you try.
this is all basic troubleshooting, verify things are working otherwise you are chasing a shadow
if the headunit outputs are all good then move on to the adapter, be sure it has output as well
step-by-step a-to-b-to-c etc, somewhere along the line something has stopped working
at least on the gmt800's you can have that headunit out in like 2 minutes, super easy
on my 18 silverado pfft it takes a lot longer unless you want to destroy your trim, the wifes 16 you have to do all kinds of crap to get to the radio

ill take another look at the harness then heres some pics to see what wiring an stuff i have going on its a work trucck so excuse the bottles an junk an tools XD

 

[Doubeleive]

if you didn't solder or crimp the adapter wires good then one or more could have worked there way loose or have a bad connection, these are things to check while you are in there.

 

[walkswithtahoes]

That wiring is an absolute nightmare. You need to test each item. You need to rewire that harness for the factory amp. You need to purchase an amp bypass harness. You need to run proper gauge wire to that amp, connect and terminate it properly. Your ground wire is smaller than your power wire. Your connections at the battery are atrocious. I don't know what that silver wire in the picture with the fuse holder goes to but there's no fuse on it. Basically, after you verify that everything works, you need to start over from scratch

 

[Doubeleive]

That wiring is an absolute nightmare. You need to test each item. You need to rewire that harness for the factory amp. You need to purchase an amp bypass harness. You need to run proper gauge wire to that amp, connect and terminate it properly. Your ground wire is smaller than your power wire. Your connections at the battery are atrocious. I don't know what that silver wire in the picture with the fuse holder goes to but there's no fuse on it. Basically, after you verify that everything works, you need to start over from scratch

lol, my wiring looked similar when I was like 18 and had never done anything like that before, love the magic tape
but I quickly learned that most of that mess doesn't work out
what is mostly screwing him is the $10 adapter harness

 

[doc2th]

I am in the process of replacing my Kenwood head with an Android. I did the bypass 10 years ago with an adapter.
I believe that the SUB and Rear Pillar speaker wires from the Factory amp location are on a separate Harness. The smaller connector that alo has the power and ground going into the factory amp. Colors on my diagram indicate Dk Blue/White and Lt Green/ Black to the sub and Lt Blue an Dk Green to the tweeters in the pillars. (They appear to be run in series.)

I hope this helps someone.

2001 Suburban LT Sub no Bose.