2013 Escalade to 2013 CTS V steering wheel swap

[JPS0284]

Ive been working on modding a 2013 CTS V steering wheel to work with a 2013 Escalade and ran into some mechanical bumps with shaft and connector sizes, but hit what might be the ultimate dead end. After extensively digging through control schmatics I found that each button on the wheel produces a specific resistance value which is then read by the BCM to carry out that function. Attached are schemtatics from both steering wheels with each resistor labeled with their respective values in series between each button. So if my theorys true even if you managed to swap the connectors and wires in the correct order the buttons wont function as they should until that resistance is met...Chime in if you think otherwise, but I think this ones a bust unless your willing to do some extensive work to meet each unique resistance value. This also appears to be true for the manual shift buttons on the gear selector.... so much for having paddle shifters on the Escalade ..

Although there still might be some hope for steering wheel shift controls using 25901034 off the 2009 H2 Hummer. At 35$ I’m willing to take the gamble to give it a try, it might be plug and play…to be continued…

*Update* I just swapped the right side steering wheel controls to the 25901034 and the shift buttons aren’t working, which I had a feeling they wouldn’t since It was just a direct swap. I’ll look over the shit button schematics tonight to determine if they could be rerouted into the steering wheel and plugged into the left side wheel controls. Also the back lightings green instead of white which is a little disappointing. I do think this approach is doable for shifting controls but I don’t know if anything could be done about the button backlighting…

 

[petethepug]

Evil laugh

Can’t wait til you get this figured out. I use the manual shift about 2x a month to jockey for a lane into a freeway on-ramp from a standing start. Most vehicles guard the lane.

By going from forced 2nd up to third, the 6.2L is loud enough to let traffic know something’s there and letting off the pedal is a safer deceleration than stepping in the brake if the next light cycles to red. If it stays green onto the highway, it’s a simple shift into 3rd and then back to full auto without touching the brakes.

 

[JPS0284]

Evil laugh

Can’t wait til you get this figured out. I use the manual shift about 2x a month to jockey for a lane into a freeway on-ramp from a standing start. Most vehicles guard the lane.

By going from forced 2nd up to third, the 6.2L is loud enough to let traffic know something’s there and letting off the pedal is a safer deceleration than stepping in the brake if the next light cycles to red. If it stays green onto the highway, it’s a simple shift into 3rd and then back to full auto without touching the brakes.

That’s so true! Tho buttons on the column just feel awkward, just need to figure out how to either hack the BCM or hack the switches and change the resistors…

 

[JPS0284]

*Update* Inside the Escalade left side wheel controls, changing resistors looks like a bust. After swapping to the 25901034 controller the plug matches up, the cruise control button lights up but doesn’t seem to recognize when attempting to set a desired speed. I’m beginning to think the 25901034 controller uses different resistance values. My next move is to swap the Escalades circuit boards into the 25901034 and try to reroute the gear selector shift buttons to the up/down shift buttons on the 25901034. This would be so much easier to accomplish editing the BCM coding…

 

[iamdub]

*Update* Inside the Escalade left side wheel controls, changing resistors looks like a bust. After swapping to the 25901034 controller the plug matches up, the cruise control button lights up but doesn’t seem to recognize when attempting to set a desired speed. I’m beginning to think the 25901034 controller uses different resistance values. My next move is to swap the Escalades circuit boards into the 25901034 and try to reroute the gear selector shift buttons to the up/down shift buttons on the 25901034. This would be so much easier to accomplish editing the BCM coding…

 

[JPS0284]

So I just found this fairly priced compromise to the CTS V wheel. Most used V wheels are priced around 2/3’s of the cost of the new wheel and would require a donor 2007-2014 truck wheel. The frame needs to be modified to make a spline reducer in order to mount the CTS V wheel and still have the problem of getting the wheel controls working. After reaching out to a few different companies who modify BCMs it doesn’t seem like there is any interest in exploring the possibility of changing the values needed in order to get the buttons functioning properly. Gathering all these parts and factoring in time need to modify things to get the proper fit and finish and possibly paying to get a custom coded BCM is looking like a bust. I feel like in my case most cost effective solution would be to go with the carbon fiber wheel and work on getting the shift buttons working on the 25901034 or add some aftermarket molmentary switches on the back side of the truck wheel which would probably be easier and cheaper…

 

[petethepug]

On a VW I have I was able to swap 1/2 the steering column to get the spline issue resolved.

Reach out to White Automotive who does all the custom work for Gen 4 BCM and software Mods.

C/K Truck & SUV Custom BCM Programming Service 2007-2014

Unlock custom features on your GM C/K truck or SUV (2007-2014) with bespoke BCM programming from WAMS — remote start, and much more!

www.whiteautoandmedia.com

Use the chat button that pops up on the screen. It refers you to BT Dieselworks site but White is the one who does the custom work for CTS-V & NNBS trucks.

 

[JPS0284]

On a VW I have I was able to swap 1/2 the steering column to get the spline issue resolved.

Reach out to White Automotive who does all the custom work for Gen 4 BCM and software Mods.

C/K Truck & SUV Custom BCM Programming Service 2007-2014

Unlock custom features on your GM C/K truck or SUV (2007-2014) with bespoke BCM programming from WAMS — remote start, and much more!

www.whiteautoandmedia.com

Use the chat button that pops up on the screen. It refers you to BT Dieselworks site but White is the one who does the custom work for CTS-V & NNBS trucks.

I talked to them and they said “we’ve never mapped that out before “ and didn’t express any interest in taking on the project. Geo had the best idea with coding an ardunio board to do the resistance conversions.

 

[petethepug]

Could you pull any of the switch packs or modules apart or swap the guts of other components?

 

[JPS0284]

Could you pull any of the switch packs or modules apart or swap the guts of other components?

No the buttons are integrated into a circuit board along with their respective resistors. From all the research I’ve done its plausible but would require a tremendous amount of effort to pull off.

 

[D1200]

No the buttons are integrated into a circuit board along with their respective resistors. From all the research I’ve done its plausible but would require a tremendous amount of effort to pull off.

Does the actual 2013 CTS-V wheel fit on the 3rd gen Escalades, physically I mean? Just found this thread while thinking about wheel swaps for an 08, would love a CTS-V wheel with the V emblem on it; I want to LSA the truck at some point. I am more worried about physically fitting the steering column, the switches seem really straight forward. Would scope the voltages off each switch press as a backup check, but those SMD resistors you sent a picture of aren't too hard to desolder and resolder in correct values. That and there look to be plenty of solder points for just wiring something custom into, probably how the paddles on the back would get setup.

 

[JPS0284]

Does the actual 2013 CTS-V wheel fit on the 3rd gen Escalades, physically I mean? Just found this thread while thinking about wheel swaps for an 08, would love a CTS-V wheel with the V emblem on it; I want to LSA the truck at some point. I am more worried about physically fitting the steering column, the switches seem really straight forward. Would scope the voltages off each switch press as a backup check, but those SMD resistors you sent a picture of aren't too hard to desolder and resolder in correct values. That and there look to be plenty of solder points for just wiring something custom into, probably how the paddles on the back would get setup.

The splines vary, and adjusting the depth from the clock spring to the CTS Vs plastic wheel backer could pose a challenge. Using a donor truck wheel as an adapter by cutting out the splined section, drilling, tapping bolts, and epoxying it with 3M panel bond might resolve the fitting issue. However, tackling the electrical aspect appears quite time-consuming. Additionally, I have plans for a summer project for a LSA and believe it would really add a sleek touch to the truck. It’s something I plan to revisiting in the near future.

 

[D1200]

The splines vary, and adjusting the depth from the clock spring to the CTS Vs plastic wheel backer could pose a challenge. Using a donor truck wheel as an adapter by cutting out the splined section, drilling, tapping bolts, and epoxying it with 3M panel bond might resolve the fitting issue. However, tackling the electrical aspect appears quite time-consuming. Additionally, I have plans for a summer project for a LSA and believe it would really add a sleek touch to the truck. It’s something I plan to revisiting in the near future.

A bit of a bummer about the fitment, bolt in is always nice, but I kind of figured that might be the case, the truck looks like 3/4" (or metric equivalent probably)-36 spline, and the CTS-V wheels looked to be larger diameter, and alot more and finer splined. I guess doing some machine work on the it and mounting a hub from a donor truck wheel allows for better fitment though. The switches aren't that scary, its just some resistors. The CTS-V switches look to have more connetions, they may use CANBUS or something, but if connections to switches can be accessed, can bypass whatever its using onboard and run a little board with the resistor array on it to interface the truck. That or if its as simple inside as it looks, its a flat PCB with tactile dome switches on it, and the steering buttons just have plastic legs that press on them. I can design a board for some Snaptron switches, the resistors and a plug for the Escalade fairly easily and have a board house make a few. Biggest concern I see is the traction control button on the wheel might end up being the heated wheel button, if they are heated. Alternately would be wire a set of Escalade donor switch boards into the CTS-V board switches entirely.

 

[D1200]

Also neither of those schematics has a heated wheel button shown, unless I am blind lol I just realized one is the CTS-V, it uses the resistor array as well, oops. Now that I realize that, looking at them it should be an easy fix. Most annoying part is the buttons aren't in the same order between the 2, otherwise its just resistor swap, but because the CTS does the 'V' key before the '^' one, and the Escalade is the opposite and they are in a series array of resistors so order is fixed, the resistors would have to be soldered to only one pad and jumpered to the correct one. I might grab a cheap cheap CTS button set and Escalade set and see. Hardest part is not knowing what the boards themselves look like.

 

[JPS0284]

Also neither of those schematics has a heated wheel button shown, unless I am blind lol I just realized one is the CTS-V, it uses the resistor array as well, oops. Now that I realize that, looking at them it should be an easy fix. Most annoying part is the buttons aren't in the same order between the 2, otherwise its just resistor swap, but because the CTS does the 'V' key before the '^' one, and the Escalade is the opposite and they are in a series array of resistors so order is fixed, the resistors would have to be soldered to only one pad and jumpered to the correct one. I might grab a cheap cheap CTS button set and Escalade set and see. Hardest part is not knowing what the boards themselves look like.

I took pictures of the Escalades ^ but didn’t dig into the CTS’s. I’m pretty sure the V wheel is also heated, the heat for the Escalade comes through the clock spring and i believe it’s on a dedicated circuit. If you have the resources for modifying the boards, I’d be willing to pay for your time if you’re interested. Retro fitting the truck hub to mount to the V wheel seems like a pretty easy mod, I love electrical hacks but I don’t have the resources to pull it off, just a basic weller hobbyist station.

 

[D1200]

I took pictures of the Escalades ^ but didn’t dig into the CTS’s. I’m pretty sure the V wheel is also heated, the heat for the Escalade comes through the clock spring and i believe it’s on a dedicated circuit. If you have the resources for modifying the boards, I’d be willing to pay for your time if you’re interested. Retro fitting the truck hub to mount to the V wheel seems like a pretty easy mod, I love electrical hacks but I don’t have the resources to pull it off, just a basic weller hobbyist station.

Well we will know soon, I ordered the right side CTS control, I will be seeing if I can get it to control the audio like the Escalade currently does, I do have Bluetooth installed on this Escalade so mine are functioning. Thought that would be easier than trying to test the cruise buttons. I think the CTS wheels can be heated or not, but seems CTS-V wheels being alcanterra, or faux suede if its not branded alcanterra, seem to not be at all from what I looked at. To be fair, I don't think heat would be as much of a concern with alcanterra materials as traditional leather. My concern still is the truck hub and making sure its well mounted because that would be the first thing people will crap on. I did notice 2015 to 2017 Escalade wheels I think will fit the hub, and looked to be maybe '18-'19 is when they got the finer splined hub like the CTS-V and most other Cadillacs, so I may go that route for my truck but can mod probably most wheels to work electrically. I do really like the look of the 2013 CTS-V wheels though so we will see.

And my background is electrical engineering so I have everything lol Be more than happy to help make a set of switches for you.

 

[JPS0284]

Well we will know soon, I ordered the right side CTS control, I will be seeing if I can get it to control the audio like the Escalade currently does, I do have Bluetooth installed on this Escalade so mine are functioning. Thought that would be easier than trying to test the cruise buttons. I think the CTS wheels can be heated or not, but seems CTS-V wheels being alcanterra, or faux suede if its not branded alcanterra, seem to not be at all from what I looked at. To be fair, I don't think heat would be as much of a concern with alcanterra materials as traditional leather. My concern still is the truck hub and making sure its well mounted because that would be the first thing people will crap on. I did notice 2015 to 2017 Escalade wheels I think will fit the hub, and looked to be maybe '18-'19 is when they got the finer splined hub like the CTS-V and most other Cadillacs, so I may go that route for my truck but can mod probably most wheels to work electrically. I do really like the look of the 2013 CTS-V wheels though so we will see.

And my background is electrical engineering so I have everything lol Be more than happy to help make a set of switches for you.

After read through your recent posts, I sensed your background in electrical engineering or a closely related field. I'm a mechanical contractor and ME student, so you could say I know enough to be dangerous lol. Discussing the "modded hub" concept with a friend experienced in building drag and custom cars, he found it a bit cringey. However, we both agreed that if the hub is drilled and secured with 3M panel bond, it could be nearly as effective as welding. I also pointed out that generic Grant steering wheels also bolt to a hub. Welding it would be the ultimate solution but finding a shop willing to do it could be challenging. That would be truly amazing if you could help me out with what I’d really appreciate it! I can’t remember if I mentioned in a previous post that I picked up a 2013’ V wheel on eBay. The wheel was leather wrapped like the Escalade’s and the V’s hub sticks out about an inch past the plastic wheel trim. I ended up returning the wheel because some of the buttons were stuck or physically not working.

 

[D1200]

After read through your recent posts, I sensed your background in electrical engineering or a closely related field. I'm a mechanical contractor and ME student, so you could say I know enough to be dangerous lol. Discussing the "modded hub" concept with a friend experienced in building drag and custom cars, he found it a bit cringey. However, we both agreed that if the hub is drilled and secured with 3M panel bond, it could be nearly as effective as welding. I also pointed out that generic Grant steering wheels also bolt to a hub. Welding it would be the ultimate solution but finding a shop willing to do it could be challenging. That would be truly amazing if you could help me out with what I’d really appreciate it! I can’t remember if I mentioned in a previous post that I picked up a 2013’ V wheel on eBay. The wheel was leather wrapped like the Escalade’s and the V’s hub sticks out about an inch past the plastic wheel trim. I ended up returning the wheel because some of the buttons were stuck or physically not working.

See, as soon you bring up modding the hub people get weird haha! Welding would be ideal, would make people happier, but I don't know what material the frame is made of, it looks an awful lot like pot metal TBH I imagine its probably cast aluminum though? They make and sell those quick release wheels and hubs, I can't see bolting, panel bonding or welding being worse, except people will always bring that up. Also insurance in the event of an accident would have an absolute fit I am sure if they caught wind of that. That being said it would be something to look into. Its unfortunate the newer wheels are larger diameter I believe or you could machine the hole larger and broach the splines in for our vehicles. Something to figure out after the buttons, that's my first goal.

 

[JPS0284]

See, as soon you bring up modding the hub people get weird haha! Welding would be ideal, would make people happier, but I don't know what material the frame is made of, it looks an awful lot like pot metal TBH I imagine its probably cast aluminum though? They make and sell those quick release wheels and hubs, I can't see bolting, panel bonding or welding being worse, except people will always bring that up. Also insurance in the event of an accident would have an absolute fit I am sure if they caught wind of that. That being said it would be something to look into. Its unfortunate the newer wheels are larger diameter I believe or you could machine the hole larger and broach the splines in for our vehicles. Something to figure out after the buttons, that's my first goal.

lol I’m sure the insurance company would fret over anything other than the OEM wheel so might as well bolt n glue it and live precariously hahah. Panel
Bond was formulated to attach car panels together come on! It’s cast aluminum

 

[D1200]

lol I’m sure the insurance company would fret over anything other than the OEM wheel so might as well bolt n glue it and live precariously hahah. Panel
Bond was formulated to attach car panels together come on! It’s cast aluminum

That's true, they will have an aneurysm over anything not factory, and even probably factory stuff, so whatever haha! My switch should be coming in tomorrow so sometime this week I should be able to get it modified and test with my truck.

If its cast Aluminum maybe take the TIG to it and fill it in enough for smaller diameter spline to be cut, but first I will see if there is someone local that can broach the splines in, otherwise its probably just cut and panel bond.