(cont) new stock z55 suspension mysteries

[denalilex]

continuing this from my reply to @Doubeleive

i replaced everything with stock - fronts, rears. compressor. i originally was not going to replace the compressor & opt to rebuild but even i - the self proclaimed rebuild queen (some may argue cheap. i prefer frugal, + it has 300k so anything i don’t have to drop a stack on - i try not to) can’t do much with a pile of rust. so i bought a new oem one .

i have an autel maxisys mini with current , active subscription & updated as recent as today. it can pull all codes & perform all functions of the tech2 short of programming modules as i don’t have a j2453.

im getting codes C0575, C0590, C0585 - all but driver left damper actuator circuit open. i’ve checked all fuses, the relays, the ALC relay under the fuse box. i have a p200 power probe that can do all electronic stuff. i tested the relays with that. they are functioning.

the only thing i’m curious about is the possibility of a delete for the auto ride being installed prior to me. if so i can’t find it. i don’t have any codes for service ride control & never have. i should absolutely have had them since my suspension system was a rust encompassing facade made to look like a suspension system.

everything is brand new. i’m lost. help

when i active test - the dampeners get no reading.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Did you replace the electronic suspension control module? (located on the crossmember under the truck right above the spare tire)

3 of your 4 wheels are not providing an electrical path from the shocks to the electronic suspension control module, but it is unlikely that 3 of the 4 wheels are not responding due to 3 simultaneously broken wires along those paths. It is also unlikely that 3 of the 4 electrical connectors to the shocks are bad or disconnected, but check these connections, just to be sure.

It is possible, however, that the electrical connector to the electronic suspension control module is bad or dirty or damaged, and that is the next place that I would be looking. If the connector looks good, and you cleaned/reconnected it and still have the 3 error codes, then my next step would be to replaced the electronic suspension control module. When I replaced mine, it literally disintegrated in my hand after I removed the connecting bolts. No programming is required to replace the electronic suspension control module.

 

[denalilex]

Did you replace the electronic suspension control module? (located on the crossmember under the truck right above the spare tire)

3 of your 4 wheels are not providing an electrical path from the shocks to the electronic suspension control module, but it is unlikely that 3 of the 4 wheels are not responding due to 3 simultaneously broken wires along those paths. It is also unlikely that 3 of the 4 electrical connectors to the shocks are bad or disconnected, but check these connections, just to be sure.

It is possible, however, that the electrical connector to the electronic suspension control module is bad or dirty or damaged, and that is the next place that I would be looking. If the connector looks good, and you cleaned/reconnected it and still have the 3 error codes, then my next step would be to replaced the electronic suspension control module. When I replaced mine, it literally disintegrated in my had after I remove the connecting bolts. No programming is required to replace the electronic suspension control module.

thank you for this. im hoping not to have to but if it comes to it... i will... its responding & communicating with my scan tool as normal & as it should. my gut keeps telling me there is an autoride delete on here. one shock was replaced as it was not factory when i pulled them from my truck. 3/4 were still factory - 1 not.. i mean the work done by PO. i have never gotten codes for ride control never got the message. my tool shows nothing of ride control, when i pull the 30 amp fuse 2 RTD with the battery connected & truck on - i get no "service ride control" on my dash DIC.. but i should. if you pull that fuse without the neg disconnected - it will always throw a message to service ride control. i have never seen that message & I aboslutely should have given the condition of my suspension system at the time i overhauled it. i am really at this point pulling my hair out & slamming my head on my rusty frame desperate to find out where my ride control communications are. i know i have ride control. but i dont. & i think in my gut this is the source of my issues. where is it!


also super important that i forgot. my brand new compressor doesnt kick on for self test or at all

beautiful truck. i would let a white truck run me over if i could just have one. if only my silver were white. if only.

 

[denalilex]

continuing this from my reply to @Doubeleive

i replaced everything with stock - fronts, rears. compressor. i originally was not going to replace the compressor & opt to rebuild but even i - the self proclaimed rebuild queen (some may argue cheap. i prefer frugal, + it has 300k so anything i don’t have to drop a stack on - i try not to) can’t do much with a pile of rust. so i bought a new oem one .

i have an autel maxisys mini with current , active subscription & updated as recent as today. it can pull all codes & perform all functions of the tech2 short of programming modules as i don’t have a j2453.

im getting codes C0575, C0590, C0585 - all but driver left damper actuator circuit open. i’ve checked all fuses, the relays, the ALC relay under the fuse box. i have a p200 power probe that can do all electronic stuff. i tested the relays with that. they are functioning.

the only thing i’m curious about is the possibility of a delete for the auto ride being installed prior to me. if so i can’t find it. i don’t have any codes for service ride control & never have. i should absolutely have had them since my suspension system was a rust encompassing facade made to look like a suspension system.

everything is brand new. i’m lost. help

when i active test - the dampeners get no reading.

i also forgot a measly tid bit of really important info that is my brand new compressor does not kick on. not for self test. not for anything. the truck is sagging worse than it was & im uncomfortable looking like i have the other kind of hydraulics & i dont

 

[denalilex]

Did you replace the electronic suspension control module? (located on the crossmember under the truck right above the spare tire)

3 of your 4 wheels are not providing an electrical path from the shocks to the electronic suspension control module, but it is unlikely that 3 of the 4 wheels are not responding due to 3 simultaneously broken wires along those paths. It is also unlikely that 3 of the 4 electrical connectors to the shocks are bad or disconnected, but check these connections, just to be sure.

It is possible, however, that the electrical connector to the electronic suspension control module is bad or dirty or damaged, and that is the next place that I would be looking. If the connector looks good, and you cleaned/reconnected it and still have the 3 error codes, then my next step would be to replaced the electronic suspension control module. When I replaced mine, it literally disintegrated in my had after I remove the connecting bolts. No programming is required to replace the electronic suspension control module.

im back & just crawled out from under the truck. let me preface with i am def amatuer & self taught & it shows at times. lol. . im gathering that maybe i dont have a ride control DIC message & rather, it encompasses itself as "service suspension soon " & the ride control was the previous model...


ok next order of mess

something tells me that my suspension control module surely should have been bolted to the frame , right? like, it absolutely wouldnt just like.. be ... there... without bolts.... per factory standards... right?

cause it was. is. im so lost & confused. there are no bolts. they didnt just rust off. there are just none. there are holes where bolts should be. but no bolts.

what in the hell .


so maybe, just maybe, any one of the couple hundred billion potholes in PA that i've absolutely wihtout a doubt lost a tire, rim, axle or differential to upon drilling the hell out of one or two or three of them on any given day - could have done some damage seeing how i cant imagine a computer module slamming down onto the frame repeatedly could ever be a good thing.


damnit

 

[Joseph Garcia]

im back & just crawled out from under the truck. let me preface with i am def amatuer & self taught & it shows at times. lol. . im gathering that maybe i dont have a ride control DIC message & rather, it encompasses itself as "service suspension soon " & the ride control was the previous model...


ok next order of mess

something tells me that my suspension control module surely should have been bolted to the frame , right? like, it absolutely wouldnt just like.. be ... there... without bolts.... per factory standards... right?

cause it was. is. im so lost & confused. there are no bolts. they didnt just rust off. there are just none. there are holes where bolts should be. but no bolts.

what in the hell .


so maybe, just maybe, any one of the couple hundred billion potholes in PA that i've absolutely wihtout a doubt lost a tire, rim, axle or differential to upon drilling the hell out of one or two or three of them on any given day - could have done some damage seeing how i cant imagine a computer module slamming down onto the frame repeatedly could ever be a good thing.


damnit

Lots of words here.

Do you see the electronic suspension control module under the truck? It sounds like you saw it, but it was not still connected to the frame. If so, did you remove the electrical connector to the module and inspect it?

If the electronic suspension control module is not working correctly, it will not send a signal to the compressor to self test upon startup. And, if the rear of the truck appears to sag, then the rear shocks are not being pressurized (the air bladders on the shocks will be soft to the touch).

 

[denalilex]

Lots of words here.

Do you see the electronic suspension control module under the truck? It sounds like you saw it, but it was not still connected to the frame. If so, did you remove the electrical connector to the module and inspect it?

If the electronic suspension control module is not working correctly, it will not send a signal to the compressor to self test upon startup. And, if the rear of the truck appears to sag, then the rear shocks are not being pressurized (the air bladders on the shocks will be soft to the touch).

im not sure if this is related but in the 72 hours i just spent under the truck - here is what i found, here is what i would greatly appreciate your wizardry wisdom & input ( i also am equipped with enough common sense to knwo that whatever you suggest to me is merely speculative & if my truck blows up - i will not sue you or hold you liable ok... so any any any suggestions or ideas or whatever are welcomeeeee)

- do the trailer wires & suspension wires somehow co-exist in terms of power distribution?? i recently added a 60" led brake light bar & snipped all the wires to the 7-way due to the corrosion within the trailer connector & needing to splice into the wires for the bar. some of them i left to return back to because some kind of apocalyptic storm moved in & i forgot to get back to it so therye taped off with electrical tape. i reconnected 1-2 of them before it started storming... idk my thoughts are that the 1/2 i reconnected could have been tied in with the one corner im not getting a code for. but then again if the wires have no relation to one another then im back where i started, but i thought maybe its possible since the suspension & trailering / tow go hand in hand. i also traced the wires & seemed to lead to the same area. module seems to be working despite someone not giving a f less if it ripped off in travel. i disconnected it from the truck - it was completely filled with dirt, dust, grime, etc etc etc in the actual terminal connector so i cleaned that all out with connector terminal cleaner. i have not reattached it yet.

im so lost . i feel like everytime i think ive got it im standing there just about to fist pump & a hell yeah & there are crickets & here we are again. i dont know what it is !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lord help me

 

[Doubeleive]

im not sure if this is related but in the 72 hours i just spent under the truck - here is what i found, here is what i would greatly appreciate your wizardry wisdom & input ( i also am equipped with enough common sense to knwo that whatever you suggest to me is merely speculative & if my truck blows up - i will not sue you or hold you liable ok... so any any any suggestions or ideas or whatever are welcomeeeee)

- do the trailer wires & suspension wires somehow co-exist in terms of power distribution?? i recently added a 60" led brake light bar & snipped all the wires to the 7-way due to the corrosion within the trailer connector & needing to splice into the wires for the bar. some of them i left to return back to because some kind of apocalyptic storm moved in & i forgot to get back to it so therye taped off with electrical tape. i reconnected 1-2 of them before it started storming... idk my thoughts are that the 1/2 i reconnected could have been tied in with the one corner im not getting a code for. but then again if the wires have no relation to one another then im back where i started, but i thought maybe its possible since the suspension & trailering / tow go hand in hand. i also traced the wires & seemed to lead to the same area. module seems to be working despite someone not giving a f less if it ripped off in travel. i disconnected it from the truck - it was completely filled with dirt, dust, grime, etc etc etc in the actual terminal connector so i cleaned that all out with connector terminal cleaner. i have not reattached it yet.

im so lost . i feel like everytime i think ive got it im standing there just about to fist pump & a hell yeah & there are crickets & here we are again. i dont know what it is !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lord help me

well, if you cleaned it up and it looks ok, as in no signs of water intrusion, then clean the opposing harness connection also. dissconnect the battery ground, plug the module back in. reconnect the battery ground, then turn the key to the run position and you should hear the pump run, presuming all is well.
another thing to check is the pump relay it should be taped or strapped to the main harness just under the brake master cylinder area along the top edge of the frame where the main harness feeds up towards the fuse box, it is slightly larger than a standard relay and is usally beige/light tan color

 

[gooffeyguy]

well, if you cleaned it up and it looks ok, as in no signs of water intrusion, then clean the opposing harness connection also. dissconnect the battery ground, plug the module back in. reconnect the battery ground, then turn the key to the run position and you should hear the pump run, presuming all is well.
another thing to check is the pump relay it should be taped or strapped to the main harness just under the brake master cylinder area along the top edge of the frame where the main harness feeds up towards the fuse box, it is slightly larger than a standard relay and is usally beige/light tan color

I always wondered what that relay bundled up on that harness was for

 

[Doubeleive]

I always wondered what that relay bundled up on that harness was for

I think they put it there as an attempt to keep it from weather exposure and because it is a odd size they didn't have to accomodate a spot inside the fuse box for it.
that's my guess anyway......

 

[Joseph Garcia]

im not sure if this is related but in the 72 hours i just spent under the truck - here is what i found, here is what i would greatly appreciate your wizardry wisdom & input ( i also am equipped with enough common sense to knwo that whatever you suggest to me is merely speculative & if my truck blows up - i will not sue you or hold you liable ok... so any any any suggestions or ideas or whatever are welcomeeeee)

- do the trailer wires & suspension wires somehow co-exist in terms of power distribution?? i recently added a 60" led brake light bar & snipped all the wires to the 7-way due to the corrosion within the trailer connector & needing to splice into the wires for the bar. some of them i left to return back to because some kind of apocalyptic storm moved in & i forgot to get back to it so therye taped off with electrical tape. i reconnected 1-2 of them before it started storming... idk my thoughts are that the 1/2 i reconnected could have been tied in with the one corner im not getting a code for. but then again if the wires have no relation to one another then im back where i started, but i thought maybe its possible since the suspension & trailering / tow go hand in hand. i also traced the wires & seemed to lead to the same area. module seems to be working despite someone not giving a f less if it ripped off in travel. i disconnected it from the truck - it was completely filled with dirt, dust, grime, etc etc etc in the actual terminal connector so i cleaned that all out with connector terminal cleaner. i have not reattached it yet.

im so lost . i feel like everytime i think ive got it im standing there just about to fist pump & a hell yeah & there are crickets & here we are again. i dont know what it is !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lord help me

As @Doubeleive suggested above (1) clean the other side of the connector, if you have not already done so, and (2) check the identified relay to ensure that it is operating correctly.

 

[j91z28d1]

not to high jack the thread but what's z55 and z95 difference? I always thought z95 was the one with the veritable damping and z55 was just the air bag shocks?

 

[Doubeleive]

not to high jack the thread but what's z55 and z95 difference? I always thought z95 was the one with the veritable damping and z55 was just the air bag shocks?

different fluid inside the shock, makes the z95 perform better

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Z55 - Electronic suspension system - electronic throttling valve in the shock - 20ms response time

Z95 - Magneride Suspension system - electronically activated electromagnetic fluid in the shock - 4ms response time

 

[denalilex]

Z55 - Electronic suspension system - electronic throttling valve in the shock - 20ms response time

Z95 - Magneride Suspension system - electronically activated electromagnetic fluid in the shock - 4ms response time

QUESTION - im still trying to figure this mess out. i might be crazy, probably a little overly hopeful. but tell me if i am incorrect....

the trailer wiring, it hooks into the ESCM??? i have the electrical service manual, been studying & burning the pages to light my work space as i go.. but heres my thoughts & why this is relevant at all to me, which i could be wrong... i think i metnioned, i snipped the wires to install my brake light bar & noticed my trailer hook up was all but held together by rust anyway & so i needed to replace it anyway... i got overly excited to see the light bar working since when i hooked it to my 4 way port - it didnt work , i remmebered my trailer lights never worked & didnt ever get into the electrical of it til now... realized, it was obviously wiring that got chafed over the years so i spliced in to the relevant wires & cut off the 7 way connector to replace it with a new one,. i didnt do that yet, so i taped off the wiring i didnt solder into the led bar with electrical tape... i soldered 2 of them back together then got excited & did the tape mess... heres this schematic... the part number i highlighted is the trailer brake control module... i think it is the same as the ESCM electrical connector terminal.?.. so could it be that the wires i snipped are actually open circuit because i didnt hook them back to the trailer connector? the wires are the same colors, i think if i remmeber, as the wires that correlate with the dampeners going into the electrical terminal @ the ESCM.

i mean i guess i could always just do this & find out but im curious if my thought process is right or im just delusional from not sleeping since i posted this

 

[denalilex]

QUESTION - im still trying to figure this mess out. i might be crazy, probably a little overly hopeful. but tell me if i am incorrect....

the trailer wiring, it hooks into the ESCM??? i have the electrical service manual, been studying & burning the pages to light my work space as i go.. but heres my thoughts & why this is relevant at all to me, which i could be wrong... i think i metnioned, i snipped the wires to install my brake light bar & noticed my trailer hook up was all but held together by rust anyway & so i needed to replace it anyway... i got overly excited to see the light bar working since when i hooked it to my 4 way port - it didnt work , i remmebered my trailer lights never worked & didnt ever get into the electrical of it til now... realized, it was obviously wiring that got chafed over the years so i spliced in to the relevant wires & cut off the 7 way connector to replace it with a new one,. i didnt do that yet, so i taped off the wiring i didnt solder into the led bar with electrical tape... i soldered 2 of them back together then got excited & did the tape mess... heres this schematic... the part number i highlighted is the trailer brake control module... i think it is the same as the ESCM electrical connector terminal.?.. so could it be that the wires i snipped are actually open circuit because i didnt hook them back to the trailer connector? the wires are the same colors, i think if i remmeber, as the wires that correlate with the dampeners going into the electrical terminal @ the ESCM.

i mean i guess i could always just do this & find out but im curious if my thought process is right or im just delusional from not sleeping since i posted this

UGHHHHH NEVERMIND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! not this so disregard pls

just throw the whole truck away i have had it

 

[alpha_omega]

Awww $h*t, what now? Hooking up those trailer wires you cut and that rear [bumper] grounding wire didn’t fix your problem?
Did you ever end up installing a new suspension control module?

If your body is that rotted, I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s bad. I’ve seen them “communicate” with a scanner, but then not communicate with the suspension. As in maybe a partially damaged board?

 

[KidWgn]

Lots of words here.

 

[Geotrash]

Chiming in a little late here. I had a similar set of problems and error messages when I redid the front suspension on my '07 back in 2018. Turns out that I needed to clean the connectors at the top of the shocks with electrical contact cleaner. I did that, reseated the connectors, and the problem vanished.

 

[denalilex]

continuing this from my reply to @Doubeleive

i replaced everything with stock - fronts, rears. compressor. i originally was not going to replace the compressor & opt to rebuild but even i - the self proclaimed rebuild queen (some may argue cheap. i prefer frugal, + it has 300k so anything i don’t have to drop a stack on - i try not to) can’t do much with a pile of rust. so i bought a new oem one .

i have an autel maxisys mini with current , active subscription & updated as recent as today. it can pull all codes & perform all functions of the tech2 short of programming modules as i don’t have a j2453.

im getting codes C0575, C0590, C0585 - all but driver left damper actuator circuit open. i’ve checked all fuses, the relays, the ALC relay under the fuse box. i have a p200 power probe that can do all electronic stuff. i tested the relays with that. they are functioning.

the only thing i’m curious about is the possibility of a delete for the auto ride being installed prior to me. if so i can’t find it. i don’t have any codes for service ride control & never have. i should absolutely have had them since my suspension system was a rust encompassing facade made to look like a suspension system.

everything is brand new. i’m lost. help

when i active test - the dampeners get no reading.

GUYS I FIXED IT :’)

SHE WORKS EVERYTHING WORKS!! !!!! !

i could cry but i have been crying so ill just continue to tell yous that EVERYTHING WORKS!