Want to take my 2010 Yukon XL Denali with 180,000 miles for a family trip from Michigan To Florida

[mountie]

 

[bobby2175]

How old is the tire itself?

It's an original tire from 13 years ago.

 

[mountie]

It's an original tire from 13 years ago.

Then the tire is junk. The rubber is beyond it's shelf life.

 

[bobby2175]

Then the tire is junk.

I was looking at that online as well. I'm going to get a new one. Will any tire shop put it back on the spare wheel?

 

[Sparksalot]

It's an original tire from 13 years ago.

That’s what I was guessing. It’s on borrowed time.

 

[mountie]

I was looking at that online as well. I'm going to get a new one. Will any tire shop put it back on the spare wheel?

That's what tire shops do.... ( ( ?? ) )

 

[mountie]

I was looking at that online as well. I'm going to get a new one. Will any tire shop put it back on the spare wheel?

Just visit Discount Tire, in the area where you live....

 

[Doubeleive]

I say screw that spare fill it and if you have to use it then so be it, I carry one of these and a little 12v compressor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXWD4NS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

cheaper and easier

 

[iamdub]

+1 for replacing the tire. As for the rust on the wheel, it's just surface rust. If if it were mine, I'd wire wheel it, prime and paint it. No need to wire wheel the whole thing, just where the rust is and the surrounding areas where the paint easily brushes off. Or, have a tire shop remove the tire then bring the wheel and hoist assembly to a place to get media blasted. Pretty much every good powder coat shop can media blast. I'd say all those parts can be blasted with regular sand, no need to get exotic abrasives. Take it home and spray paint it. Or, maybe the powdercoat shop will hook you up. Then have your tire shop install a fresh tire. My point in having the tire removed is so you can clean and paint the inner lip as that can be a point of constant leaks if there is corrosion between the lip and tire bead.

Or, if the cost-versus-hassle dictates it, get a rust-free spare wheel and/or hoist to replace yours.

 

[bobby2175]

That's what tire shops do.... ( ( ?? ) )

I figured they'd take one look at the rust on it and say no.

 

[mountie]

I figured they'd take one look at the rust on it and say no.

First things first.... remove the tire and have the rim inspected. That will show you what your options are. Until then, you can only guess....

 

[bobby2175]

+1 for replacing the tire. As for the rust on the wheel, it's just surface rust. If if it were mine, I'd wire wheel it, prime and paint it. No need to wire wheel the whole thing, just where the rust is and the surrounding areas where the paint easily brushes off. Or, have a tire shop remove the tire then bring the wheel and hoist assembly to a place to get media blasted. Pretty much every good powder coat shop can media blast. I'd say all those parts can be blasted with regular sand, no need to get exotic abrasives. Take it home and spray paint it. Or, maybe the powdercoat shop will hook you up. Then have your tire shop install a fresh tire. My point in having the tire removed is so you can clean and paint the inner lip as that can be a point of constant leaks if there is corrosion between the lip and tire bead.

Or, if the cost-versus-hassle dictates it, get a rust-free spare wheel and/or hoist to replace yours.

I think this is an interesting option. There are a couple of powder coat companies around. I'll call on Monday and see how much it would be.

 

[bobby2175]

What is the torque specs on the lug nuts? I was looking at another thread searching for the answer and I saw 140 ft-lbs. Does that sound right?

 

[Doubeleive]

What is the torque specs on the lug nuts? I was looking at another thread searching for the answer and I saw 140 ft-lbs. Does that sound right?

somewhere around there is fine
yep book says 140

 

[bobby2175]

somewhere around there is fine
yep book says 140

Thank you!

 

[bobby2175]

Alright! Got the air suspension completely redone - shocks and compressor. I heard the compressor come on for a few seconds when I started it up and the rear is riding much higher than it has in years! I fiddled with this longer than I should have and it made it much easier once I removed the wheel well shroud on the passenger side to get the shock re-installed. There's just too much in the way to see everything clearly on that side.

I'm on my way to remove the spare tire from the wheel and order a new one.

Where do you all think I should go next with the maintenance?

Some before and after pics of the parts - the old shocks were obliterated.

 

[bobby2175]

Ok, so here is where I'm planning to go with my next round of maintenance - let me know your thoughts:
Fluid changes:
Transmission service (remove pan, replace filter, max life atf)
Oil change - any recommendations on oil filter?
Front and rear diff
Power steering
Transfer case

Replace driver's side engine mount
Possible fuel injector service

Does this make sense? Anything you'd add? Any preferred fluids?

 

[avalonandl]

AC Oil filter, and fluids

Your ready to go.....

 

[bobby2175]

As I'm thinking through all of this, should I be concerned at all about changing the trans fluid? If memory serves me right, I've probably done 1-2 trans flushes along the way. Now that I've learned the actual service vs flush is the right way to go, should I be ok on this? There are no issues with the transmission at all today.

Second question - I read that some people are using the engine mounts from the Hummer. Is this a better alternative?

 

[donjetman]

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/broken-motor-mounts.55790/