2003 Tahoe Steering Wheel Upside Down after Steering Gearbox Replaced

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901Tahoe_

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Hello everyone,

I have a 2003 Tahoe 2WD with the 5.3L with 260k miles. I recently replaced my steering gearbox and pitman arm because I have loose steering and noticed the adjustment screw was adjusted all the way in from the previous owner (also was a reman unit) and the ball joint on the pitman arm was bad.

However, while reattaching the steering shaft, I could not get it to go on to the steering gearbox but only one way, and thus my steering wheel is now out 180 degrees and upside down with the wheels pointed straight. I made sure the gearbox was completely centered and the pitman arm was oriented correctly.

My question is, could I just loosen the upper intermediate steering shaft, spin the inside steering wheel 180 degrees and reinstall? I briefly tried separating the intermediate shaft near the firewall for about 30 minutes and only got it to move about half an inch. I would rather know if its possible or not before spending an hour or two using PB blaster and a torch to wiggle it out.

Or would it be easier to do this inside the truck underneath the steering wheel?

The steering wheel only has airbag (no controls), and I don’t have an airbag light, so I am assuming the clockspring/airbag is still fine.

Steering is still sometimes a little sloppy, so I will take a look at the idler arm and tie rod ends next.

Thanks!
 
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strutaeng

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I had a somewhat similar recently on my 99 Silverado NBS. Replaced the the steering rack because it was leaking and just changed everything (ball joints, bushings, etc.) because it was all original. When I disconnected the steering wheel shaft I didn't restraint the steering wheel with the seat belt and it freewheeled.


When I got everything back together stuff was way out of wack: driving 10 mph tires were screeching bad! Drove to Pep Boys only to find out their alignment machine wasn't working. Doh! My steering wheel was maybe at 3 o'clock off. Next I took it to a little shop near me and they told me my steering wheel was 180 degrees off! They said remove the steering shaft, turn the wheel lock-to-lock and center it, then reattach it. I was kinda surprised honestly.

So I went back home but the steering wheel just turns and never bumps when disconnecting it (disconnected the battery.) I wound up watching a YT video on how to do a rough alignment by centering the steering wheel, then turning the outer tie rods until the wheels look straight. I turned mine probably 3 full turns, both were pointed outward. I was able to drive it on the freeway afterward, steering wheel was only slightly off.

I went to a different Pep Boys and got an alignment, and everything is perfect now. I don't think those guys at the little shop knew what they were talking about.

My truck only has a steering rack, not a pitman arm though. I would say take it to an alignment shop so they can take a look at it. They can probably tell you if something is wrong. You are going to need an alignment anyways. They may be able to straighten the steering wheel.
 
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901Tahoe_

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I had a somewhat similar recently on my 99 Silverado NBS. Replaced the the steering rack because it was leaking and just changed everything (ball joints, bushings, etc.) because it was all original. When I disconnected the steering wheel shaft I didn't restraint the steering wheel with the seat belt and it freewheeled.


When I got everything back together stuff was way out of wack: driving 10 mph tires were screeching bad! Drove to Pep Boys only to find out their alignment machine wasn't working. Doh! My steering wheel was maybe at 3 o'clock off. Next I took it to a little shop near me and they told me my steering wheel was 180 degrees off! They said remove the steering shaft, turn the wheel lock-to-lock and center it, then reattach it. I was kinda surprised honestly.

So I went back home but the steering wheel just turns and never bumps when disconnecting it (disconnected the battery.) I wound up watching a YT video on how to do a rough alignment by centering the steering wheel, then turning the outer tie rods until the wheels look straight. I turned mine probably 3 full turns, both were pointed outward. I was able to drive it on the freeway afterward, steering wheel was only slightly off.

I went to a different Pep Boys and got an alignment, and everything is perfect now. I don't think those guys at the little shop knew what they were talking about.

My truck only has a steering rack, not a pitman arm though. I would say take it to an alignment shop so they can take a look at it. They can probably tell you if something is wrong. You are going to need an alignment anyways. They may be able to straighten the steering wheel.
So I don’t think its exactly an alignment issue (even though it definitely needs an alignment soon).

Before I replaced the steering gearbox the steering wheel was pointed the correct way and centered with the wheels centered.

I made sure the replacement steering gearbox was centered by counting the number of turns left and right to lock, and then putting it dead center. The pitman arm has 4 keyed splines, so that was installed correctly. However where the steering rack connects to the gearbox seems to be keyed and will only go on one way. I tried for about two hours with pry bars, screw driver and hammer, but could only get the steering rack onto the gearbox with the steering wheel upside down, with the wheels pointing straight. Im thinking since the gearbox has been replaced in the past (previous owner was a “mechanic”), maybe they were able to split open the end of the steering shaft and put it onto the box. Or maybe they could have flipped the steering wheel around in the truck. Or maybe even the reman steering gearbox I got was rebuilt incorrectly. I only did a quick side by side comparison and turned in the old one for the core return.

I cannot adjust the tie rods to correct because the steering wheel is definitely centered with the wheels, but is just now upside down. The gearbox is definitely in the center position as well.

I am going to try and separate the steering shaft up near the firewall and try spinning the wheel 180 (so that its oriented correctly) and slip the two ends together and bolt it back together.

Trying to save as much money as possible because these shops now a days charge outrageous diagnostic and labor fees.
 
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OR VietVet

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IMO, I would start at the connection at the steering gear. That is where you disconnected and if the steering wheel count/center is the same, that is likely where the problem is.
 
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901Tahoe_

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IMO, I would start at the connection at the steering gear. That is where you disconnected and if the steering wheel count/center is the same, that is likely where the problem is.
I agree with you and that makes sense. I just could not get the shaft to connect to the gearbox with the steering wheel facing upright for the life of me. I probably spent around 2 hours on the garage floor trying to get it on like that.

I’ll mess around with it some more from both sides, and report what I find out. I really hope the reman unit was built correctly, got it at AutoZone. TruGrade brand or something like that.
 

OR VietVet

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I wonder if the tilt of the steering wheel has anything to do with the problem?
 

Larryjb

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I know this sounds weird, but is it possible you got things back together the the Pittman arm on backwards? I'm not so sure it's possible, but it would certainly explain why your steering wheel is out 180°.
 

strutaeng

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Yeah, try to turn the steering wheel shaft 180 degrees then. When I reinstalled mine I actually had to remove it and put on my vice to open it up a bit because I couldn't get it on the steering rack shaft. The shaft is like round with 2 flat spots, so I'm pretty sure it's symmetrical.

I guess I assumed trucks and SUVs had similar suspension but doesn't sound like it. The Tahoe's have both a steering rack and gearbox?! Does it have coil springs or torsion bars?

The 1500 trucks have torsion bars/gearbox for 4x4 and coils/steering rack for 2wd. I did know at some point SUVs went to torsion bars/gearbox for both 2wd and 4x4. Not sure what years or if that was all of them for this generation (GMT 800)?

Edit: looks like the Silverado SS 2wd was also torsion bars front suspension.
 
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Joseph Garcia

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Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.
 
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901Tahoe_

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Yeah, try to turn the steering wheel shaft 180 degrees then. When I reinstalled mine I actually had to remove it and put on my vice to open it up a bit because I couldn't get it on the steering rack shaft. The shaft is like round with 2 flat spots, so I'm pretty sure it's symmetrical.

I guess I assumed trucks and SUVs had similar suspension but doesn't sound like it. The Tahoe's have both a steering rack and gearbox?! Does it have coil springs or torsion bars?

The 1500 trucks have torsion bars/gearbox for 4x4 and coils/steering rack for 2wd. I did know at some point SUVs went to torsion bars/gearbox for both 2wd and 4x4. Not sure what years or if that was all of them for this generation (GMT 800)?

Edit: looks like the Silverado SS 2wd was also torsion bars front suspension.
Yeah that steering shaft is on there tight!

My 03 Tahoe has a steering gearbox/pitman arm and power steering pump. It does not have a rack and pinion.

It’s 2wd and the front uses torsion bars.
 

Larryjb

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When I look at the splines of a steering box, there are four "key" positions. This means that the Pitman arm could go on in any one of four positions. There are 8 teeth between each key position. I think the Pitman arm is installed 180° out.

MP_98151M_Top.jpg



There may have been a manufacturing defect on the steering box that prevented it from fitting on in the correct position. As much as I hate to say this, I'd take the Pitman arm off, turn the steering wheel straight, and try to fit it on correctly.
 

Larryjb

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I came across this info. I know it is for a Jeep, but similar precautions will apply:

 

rockola1971

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Assuming you did not move the steering wheel when reassembling and your gearbox was indeed centered then the only way this problem is possible is if you have the 4 key with large king key steering gearbox output shaft (what your pitman arm is on) and the output shaft was installed 180deg out from the rebuilder. Now i believe there was a 4 key version that did not have the larger king key that literally indexed everything for you and that version you could get it 180 out but something would have had to been moved like the steering wheel or the steering gearbox was not at center of lock to lock.

Straigthen your front wheels and count to right lock then go back to straight and count from center to left lock. Are they the same? If they are then either your gearbox has its output (or even input shaft) 180deg out from the rebuilder or you screwed up and the steering wheel moved during reassembly.
 

tooleyondeck

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Any update on this? If your tires are straight and everything is otherwise functioning correctly (lock to lock, etc) couldn't you just unbolt your steering wheel and flip it 180° and reattach it?
 

rockola1971

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Any update on this? If your tires are straight and everything is otherwise functioning correctly (lock to lock, etc) couldn't you just unbolt your steering wheel and flip it 180° and reattach it?
That could tear up the clock spring assembly in the steering wheel. This is why the steering wheel must be strapped to the neutral (Zero) AKA 12 oclock position when removing steering gearbox, steering shaft(s) or Pitman Arm. It never ends well when the steering wheel moves during reassembly. Its even worse if the installer doesnt verify that both the input and output shaft of the gearbox are neutral position during install. You never assume the gearbox rebuilder did their job correctly.
 

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