What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[5x10]

Why not buy a used one?

15-20 yr old plastic likely to break

 

[iamdub]

This tool is not good for those 1/2 heater lines. It did not slide into the line even after I spit on it and hit it with the sauce. So I did what i should have done Sunday, cut the section of below the ac drier, ran 1/2" gates heater hose and some clamps. Problem solved. I'm just going to use some of the hose clamps I ordered tomorrow to tidy up the routing of the new hose. Probably get some pics up also.

Whale, shit. I wonder if those aluminum lines are thicker than normal, making the ID too small. Maybe the tool can be modded?

 

[iamdub]

In May of 2021 I replaced the oil pressure sender (at 227k miles) but I doubt that would be the culprit since I've changed the oil several times since then. I did make a ~1,900 total mile road trip to southern CO and back the last week of June, I wonder if running the motor that hard that long might have had something to do with it. I changed the oil when I got home and sent it off to Blackstone which is what I posted above.

Yeah, that sensor replaced 2+ years ago isn't gonna affect anything now. Something recently replaced that contains brass (fittings) or solder could introduce trace amounts of lead. That was my one hopeful crack at it.

Highway cruising is about the easiest you could be on an engine. If your trip included steady elevation gains, foothills, mountain roads, etc., then there would be plenty of higher loads on the engine. But, if those caused your leads levels to spike, I'd be questioning the quality of the oil or the pumping system. Given the low pressure symptoms you mentioned in the past and now this, I'd be playing it safe and saving for a replacement short block or rebuild.

 

[Fless]

Pulled the HVAC control last night and disassembled in prep for backlighting bulb replacement. I'm not sure if I'll do them all, or just the four that are burned out. Saving the work for this afternoon when it's hot outside.

Before: the button lights are easy to tell, but can't really tell on the two dial backlight bulbs.

Powered up on the table:

 

[Tonyrodz]

Pulled the HVAC control last night and disassembled in prep for backlighting bulb replacement. I'm not sure if I'll do them all, or just the four that are burned out. Saving the work for this afternoon when it's hot outside.

Before: the button lights are easy to tell, but can't really tell on the two dial backlight bulbs.

View attachment 404899

Powered up on the table:

View attachment 404903

Might as well do them all while you're at it.

 

[mattbta]

Fixed my suspension clunk.

Totally my fault and could have been catastrophic. I'm a dumbass. So, rewind to 2017 when i'm launching the parts cannon to try and fix my steering issues which later turned out to be an upside down centerlink thanks to the clowns at Firestone that did my tie rod ends. Before I figured that out (always gotta thank @SnowDrifter for the post) I decided to do hubs, lower BJ, and UCA w/BJ.

Couldn't get the darn spindle to separate from the lower BJ and every YouTube I saw had someone hitting it with a BFH. I tried and tried, no luck. Apparently, when I was banging on it, I also banged on the top of it and compressed the metal to where the brake line bracket bolt wouldn't screw in. Here's the idiot move - I just sent it. That's right, for 6+ years, that brake line bracket was loose and flopping around.

Fast forward to the last 6 months or so and I have this super odd clunk in the front left. Every time I'd grease the suspension, it would go away for a day or so. Hrm. Well, I'm doing a big 5, similar to @iamdub on his NNBS and was looking under my truck to see how he had one ground going from the PS bracket to the motor mount and what caught my eye? The damned brake line bracket caught up under the upper BJ. Ugh, not good.

Ordered some taps and went out today to get that bracket secure. All bolted down, now. I need to order some upper BJ boots or might just send it again and get full UCA's.

My mind can only think that if I kept driving like that, the lines could have worn through and I'd have NO BRAKES! Counting my blessings that it didn't happen in the last 6 years. Is Powerball jackpot huge again? Whew.

 

[mattbta]

Well, it’s not fixed, clunk still there. But the shape the boot was in, might as well get new arms with BJs.

 

[blueinkd]

Pulled the HVAC control last night and disassembled in prep for backlighting bulb replacement. I'm not sure if I'll do them all, or just the four that are burned out. Saving the work for this afternoon when it's hot outside.

Before: the button lights are easy to tell, but can't really tell on the two dial backlight bulbs.

View attachment 404899

Powered up on the table:

View attachment 404903

Dang I really need to do mine=(. Bulbs and new soldering station have been in garage about 3 months now.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Dang I really need to do mine=(. Bulbs and new soldering station have been in garage about 3 months now.

Don't feel bad. Mine are completely burned out--least of my worries right now.

 

[Fless]

Might as well do them all while you're at it.

You know, Tony, at first I was going to replace just the ones that were out. However, I installed the first four and, lo and behold, another was out! Some of them were intermittent and it was a bit like Whack-a-Mole, so I did them all. Not a difficult job, but I think I may need to get a stronger optical prescription or a magnifier light.

Thanks to @mattbta for sending the connector pinout so I didn't have to fish for the pins to connect the 12v supply for testing. The main connector is the same as the cluster connector, just a different color. And kudos to www.carradiobulbs.com for having the correct bulbs as a kit. LMC Truck also sells the bulbs, I think.

After all bulbs replaced and blue filters installed:

Back in the truck, dimmed slightly:

New bulb (left, as if you couldn't tell) vs old (well done) bulb:

All the old bulbs and filters. I was surprised that none of the filters had melted to the glass, so I have these as spares now.

 

[blueinkd]

Whale, shit. I wonder if those aluminum lines are thicker than normal, making the ID too small. Maybe the tool can be modded?

I don't see how the tool can be modded. It's all good. The lines were at minimum 1/16 thick after I cut them, so no way that tool with 1/2 OD was going in. Clamp job working just fine. I did order some nicer stainless steel fuel line clamps to use instead of the regularl worm clamps on now. I had some but not big enough for the 1/2 gates heater hose. BEEN driving it all day and sealing just fine. The heater hose makes a loop near the reservoir and goes back down behind the AC drier.

I used -10AN line clamps to keep them routed nicely.

 

[blueinkd]

Don't feel bad. Mine are completely burned out--least of my worries right now.

I hear you but I have a spare I started on, pack of white leds and a new soldering station in my tool box. Maybe after I enjoy the new engine a bit more. I may start collecting parts for the NNBS/TBSS swap here too. Behind my wife's back!! Hahaha!!

 

[iamdub]

I don't see how the tool can be modded. It's all good. The lines were at minimum 1/16 thick after I cut them, so no way that tool with 1/2 OD was going in. Clamp job working just fine. I did order some nicer stainless steel fuel line clamps to use instead of the regularl worm clamps on now. I had some but not big enough for the 1/2 gates heater hose. BEEN driving it all day and sealing just fine. The heater hose makes a loop near the reservoir and goes back down behind the AC drier.

I used -10AN line clamps to keep them routed nicely.

Clean job!

Wanna offload that tool? I'm still contemplating dickin' around with mine one day.

 

[blueinkd]

Clean job!

Wanna offload that tool? I'm still contemplating dickin' around with mine one day.

Nah. I just threw it in the tool box. I spend more money on clamps overall then the tool itself. I'm sure I can use it for something as long as I don't forget I have it.

 

[Fless]

Don't feel bad. Mine are completely burned out--least of my worries right now.

Send it to me and I'll do the backlighting for you, if it's the AUTO control.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Send it to me and I'll do the backlighting for you, if it's the AUTO control.

I appreciate the offer, unfortunately it's the manual control unit.

 

[Fless]

I appreciate the offer, unfortunately it's the manual control unit.

I could do that one as long as I can get the slider knobs off without breaking anything.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I could do that one as long as I can get the slider knobs off without breaking anything.

That would be cool. I still don't have it back yet, the mechanic still has it and I don't want to rush him.

 

[alpha_omega]

Fixed my suspension clunk.

Totally my fault and could have been catastrophic. I'm a dumbass. So, rewind to 2017 when i'm launching the parts cannon to try and fix my steering issues which later turned out to be an upside down centerlink thanks to the clowns at Firestone that did my tie rod ends.

Couldn't get the darn spindle to separate from the lower BJ and every YouTube I saw had someone hitting it with a BFH. I tried and tried, no luck. Apparently, when I was banging on it, I also banged on the top of it and compressed the metal to where the brake line bracket bolt wouldn't screw in. Here's the idiot move - I just sent it. That's right, for 6+ years, that brake line bracket was loose and flopping around.

Fast forward to the last 6 months or so and I have this super odd clunk in the front left.
My mind can only think that if I kept driving like that, the lines could have worn through and I'd have NO BRAKES! Counting my blessings that it didn't happen in the last 6 years. Is Powerball jackpot huge again? Whew.

You’ll have to share a photo or two of that “oops”. It reminds me of when I was out of town and my wife had some brake work done on her previous car. She kept hearing noises and the brakes were “weak” feeling. I pull the tire off and the stealership forgot to use threadlocker on the caliper bracket bolts and the caliper bolts. Some people might say that it’s not needed on the caliper or the bracket, but this was an obvious case where something was needed.

Have you checked to see if your clunk is a steering issue?

 

[alpha_omega]

Basic driveway car wash for my 2001 Yukon. Nothing fancy. Original paint has some dings for sure but this SUV cleans up well even after twenty years.

View attachment 404594

Same color and body as my ‘02. Looks clean. The only difference from the outside is that mine has a chrome grille and a different set of wheels. What’s your current mileage?

New bulb (left, as if you couldn't tell) vs old (well done) bulb:


All the old bulbs and filters. I was surprised that none of the filters had melted to the glass, so I have these as spares now.
View attachment 404944

Looks clean. What was your total damage and how long do you think it took you to replace them?

I’ll be curious to see how hot those new bulbs get. The old ones look like a fire hazard just waiting to burn out or melt the hvac control.