Pulling rear axle bearings

[dkad260]

'12 XL Denali,

I need to replace an axle seal with 120K miles, just a light residue on the backing plate but want to change both sides.

My question/concern is, worst case, if the bearings are worn, does that also correlate to a worn axle shaft, especially if the seal is leaking? Can we replace bearings and not the axle if the axle surface is good?

Another concern was when I bought it, the rear pinion seal was weeping a little and I have since changed it. So I'm hoping the diff wasn't low at one point causing the seal to go bad from a worn axle race/surface.

The fluid was full when I bought it, and it was regularly maintained..no leaks that leave drips.

I have read the bearings can be pulled without damaging the ABS tone ring. I plan on picking up this puller since the axle bearing adapters work very well, I'm tired of renting them..lol.

21 Piece Master Axle Puller Kit

This innovative 21 Piece Master Axle Puller Kit is engineered to easily and quickly remove front and rear axles, axle bearings, and seals. This kit services most front and rear drive vehicles. The included slide hammer also works great to pull body dents and gears. Versatility in a box...

www.powerbuilt.com

I'm thinking if I'm in there, I may as well replace the tone ring also.

I dont have the special tool to remove it, but would the slide hammer do the trick?

Also, would a seal installer work to reseat the tone ring? I figure I would measure the depth before I pull it.

Thanks for any input.

 

[Geotrash]

If you find that the bearing does indeed have play in it, then yes, the axle shaft(s) would likely have wear marks on them since the bearing rides directly on the shaft. Replacements aren't expensive, thankfully.

That said, bearings and axle shafts should be okay at that mileage. Lots of guys running around with 400K miles on them. Are you sure you want to go through the effort with only a light residue on the backing plate? Some light residue is common so I have learned not to sweat it. If it were mine, I'd let that ride and monitor it.

It's also possible that the vent line got clogged after playing in the mud by a PO, resulting in pressurization of the differential when it gets hot, hence the seepage. Might be worth getting a good look at that before you go to all the trouble.

 

[dkad260]

Are you sure you want to go through the effort with only a light residue on the backing plate?

Not really, I guess I could monitor it but it's a decent amount of residue size wise, but not wet-wise.

Replacements aren't expensive, thankfully.

That's good to know.

It's also possible that the vent line got clogged after playing in the mud by a PO

Nah...I doubt it, this was more or less a lightly driven garage queen, very clean underneath and was one of the things that made me more interested in purchasing.

 

[89Suburban]

There is a special tool for setting the tone ring in the correct position. @Rocket Man

 

[swathdiver]

'12 XL Denali,

I need to replace an axle seal with 120K miles, just a light residue on the backing plate but want to change both sides.

My question/concern is, worst case, if the bearings are worn, does that also correlate to a worn axle shaft, especially if the seal is leaking? Can we replace bearings and not the axle if the axle surface is good?

Another concern was when I bought it, the rear pinion seal was weeping a little and I have since changed it. So I'm hoping the diff wasn't low at one point causing the seal to go bad from a worn axle race/surface.

The fluid was full when I bought it, and it was regularly maintained..no leaks that leave drips.

I have read the bearings can be pulled without damaging the ABS tone ring. I plan on picking up this puller since the axle bearing adapters work very well, I'm tired of renting them..lol.

21 Piece Master Axle Puller Kit

This innovative 21 Piece Master Axle Puller Kit is engineered to easily and quickly remove front and rear axles, axle bearings, and seals. This kit services most front and rear drive vehicles. The included slide hammer also works great to pull body dents and gears. Versatility in a box...

www.powerbuilt.com

I'm thinking if I'm in there, I may as well replace the tone ring also.

I dont have the special tool to remove it, but would the slide hammer do the trick?

Also, would a seal installer work to reseat the tone ring? I figure I would measure the depth before I pull it.

Thanks for any input.

That kit can be purchased from Harbor Freight for $99.

9 Way 5 lb. Slide Hammer and Puller Set

Amazing deals on this 5 Lb. Slide Hammer And Puller Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

You need the slide hammer but the rest will not pull the bearing out correctly without destroying the bearing and tone ring. At least to my way of thinking.

I bought the correct GM tool for $200 and then someone showed me one on here, looks like the same thing for $50! Search the forum, I do not remember the brand. The GM tool is J-45857 and the bearing installation tool is J-23690. The seal driver is J-21128.

J-45857 is also designed to remove the VSES tone ring. The VSES installation tool is J-45860 and they are hard to come by at present. Paid a pretty penny for one recently.

If you have a bad bearing or wear on the axle shaft, GM sells a combination seal and bearing that moves it to a new part on the axle shaft so you don't have to replace it.

 

[dkad260]

Thanks, great info....I did look at that set from HF, but the pieces I haven't seen in some other sets other than the Powerbuilt are these flip-out adapters...

these make holding onto the bearing a bit easier. However iirc, I used them to try to pull a bearing from a TB SS axle which had the tone ring and don't think I could get them to flip over between the ring and the bearing...has been awhile.

That 22 piece set is currently avail for about $125 on Amazon right now which is tempting.

The tool you mentioned, the J45857 has than thin lip on the end and likely just barely fits between the two to not damage the ring like you stated. Does that Kent Moore tool attach to a slide hammer or more of a 3-jaw hub puller that anchors to the axle tube?

 

[dkad260]

The VSES installation tool is J-45860 and they are hard to come by at present

They are definitely pricey...lol.

How does this tool install the tone ring? Does the ring rest against the raised lip of the tool? If so, what sets the depth? Tool flush with axle tube or does the lip stop at where the bearing seats?

If I know the seating depth, I may be able to use a socket.

 

[swathdiver]

The tool you mentioned, the J45857 has than thin lip on the end and likely just barely fits between the two to not damage the ring like you stated. Does that Kent Moore tool attach to a slide hammer or more of a 3-jaw hub puller that anchors to the axle tube?

I didn't catch that, cool! The Kent Moor tool attaches to a slide hammer.

They are definitely pricey...lol.

How does this tool install the tone ring? Does the ring rest against the raised lip of the tool? If so, what sets the depth? Tool flush with axle tube or does the lip stop at where the bearing seats?

If I know the seating depth, I may be able to use a socket.

It drives the tone ring in to a certain depth. There is a lip in the center of the tool that stops it at the axle tube. It appears that it was made for another application as well, so I would only be using one side to seat it to the proper depth.

If you want, send me a PM so that I'm reminded to get my phone and measure it for you. Will try to take a picture and upload it.

 

[swathdiver]

...and measure it for you. Will try to take a picture and upload it.

Ok got out to the garage but could not find a ruler, just tape measures so no photos. @dkad260

For the depth of the tone ring: 1.75 inches.

For the depth of the bearing: 17/32 of an inch.

 

[dkad260]

If you find that the bearing does indeed have play in it, then yes, the axle shaft(s) would likely have wear marks on them since the bearing rides directly on the shaft. Replacements aren't expensive, thankfully.

What are the more trusted axle shafts other than OE? Prices do look good for most, safe bet all are decent but wanted to ask.

 

[Geotrash]

What are the more trusted axle shafts other than OE? Prices do look good for most, safe bet all are decent but wanted to ask.

Dana and Dorman are both likely good. Richmond Gear I have no experience with. The Dana is cheaper partly because it doesn't come with the bearings or wheel lugs, but they make great axle parts. I had a Dana 44 with 300K on it in another truck. Never any problems.

 

[swathdiver]

What are the more trusted axle shafts other than OE? Prices do look good for most, safe bet all are decent but wanted to ask.

Dana and Dorman are both likely good. Richmond Gear I have no experience with. The Dana is cheaper partly because it doesn't come with the bearings or wheel lugs, but they make great axle parts. I had a Dana 44 with 300K on it in another truck. Never any problems.

Don't forget Moser!

Ya know if you run faster than 9.99 in the quarter mile you need c-clip eliminators! LOL

 

[dkad260]

I went with Yukon axles and OE bearings. The tool I used to pull the bearings and tone ring was the OTC 6542. This will tighten against the rollers and has enough depth to grab the tone ring using a standard 5/8-18 threaded slide hammer.

Thankyou @swathdiver for the seating depth. Do you by chance have a caliper to measure the OD of the tool that drives the tone ring?


This is the OD I need.

I managed to damage a new one and it looks like I need to contact the rolled edge only of the tone ring. This where I believe the tool contacts the tone ring.

Using a telescoping gauge the best I can to measure the diameter of the tone ring race in the axle tube, I came up with about 2.750-2.752" for a max usable diameter...or about 69.90 MM....70MM looks to be a bit tight.

My install tool I used was 65MM dia and it caved in the outside of the tone ring outer race, even with trying to contact the outer rolled lip.

 

[swathdiver]

Do you by chance have a caliper to measure the OD of the tool that drives the tone ring?


This is the OD I need.

View attachment 404273

I come up with 2.733 on both sides.

 

[j91z28d1]

I gotta say, I've changed a lot of axle bearings in my day. but these gotta be the worst to deal with.

a abs tone ring inside the axle tube? ugh. I'm not looking forward to ever doing this job.


do you have to pull the tone out to get the axle bearing out? they used to sell fixer bearings for gm's, that moved the bearings to a fresh part of the axle. I guess that's not a thing anymore lol.

 

[swathdiver]

I gotta say, I've changed a lot of axle bearings in my day. but these gotta be the worst to deal with.

a abs tone ring inside the axle tube? ugh. I'm not looking forward to ever doing this job.


do you have to pull the tone out to get the axle bearing out? they used to sell fixer bearings for gm's, that moved the bearings to a fresh part of the axle. I guess that's not a thing anymore lol.

It's still a thing and no, the ABS tone ring is deeper inside the tube.

 

[j91z28d1]

It's still a thing and no, the ABS tone ring is deeper inside the tube.

ahh so you can replace bearings without touching the tone ring? that's good.

 

[dkad260]

I come up with 2.733 on both sides.

Thank you!

I took my HF 72MM seal installer down to a local machine shop, and for some beer $$, he turned it down to 2.735". I added a couple thou for tolerance and I didn't want to go smaller than the OE tool.

I did a test run on the old tone ring and it went in with no issues.

The Kent-Moore tool will also square the face of the tone ring with the axle tube when it seats which is a big plus, using this modified tool I had made, you should double check with the depth gauge end of a caliper...which again thanks to @swathdiver is roughly 45MM deep. I have the painter's tape set at 43MM by eyeballing the end of the axle tube, gives me room for final adjustment. I think you have a couple MM of wiggle room but not much less than 45MM.

ahh so you can replace bearings without touching the tone ring? that's good.

You will need a blind hole puller like the one pictured, to grab the rollers of the bearing. There's not enough room between the tone ring and the bearing for one of those flip-out style attachments like this, least I couldn't get it to work. You have about 6MM of gap between the two.

Just don't try to use the smaller 65MM adapter in this seal and bearing driver kit for installing the tone ring, or you will likely cave in the outer race of the tone ring, ask me how I know...

 

[dkad260]

ahh so you can replace bearings without touching the tone ring? that's good.

I was able to almost finish yesterday, just need to add fluid and test drive.

Here's the proximity of the tone ring to the bearing...it's close, maybe 5MM

Pulling the bearing by the rollers worked just fine, that outer race is tough enough.

 

[j91z28d1]

ahh. so it's a physical thing. the 3 jaw puller back a few posts would pull it it without messing up the tone ring?

am I correct and the tone ring is abs? how does it hook up