That's it - F this turd-burban.

[j91z28d1]

Update #3 - Took it to the drive shaft shop this morning. They say the shaft is definitely bent, was... I didn't write it down but I think he said 1000'ths off at the dent and still 40,000ths off 18 inches out from the dent. So he is going to fabricate a steel replacement. Will use my slip yoke and replace the u joints and other yokes? (again didn't write down as he was talking). He said he has done this procedure on other similar vehicles without issue.

Has anyone replaced the aluminum shaft with a steel shaft - Are there any issues with this? Other than a slight difference in weight are there any reasons not to replace it with steel?

could have been my drive shaft shop but back when I was a kid I had a drive shaft vibration and took it to a shop, they said oh yeah its bad, we will make you one. had them do it, it was worse than what I had. took it back they showed me on their balancer it was perfect. so I just used it like they for years. caused all kinds of problems. about the time forums got popular I had read that a v6 auto drive shaft was the same as a v8 manual camaro, so off to a junk yard I went. found the cleanest one I could find, maybe 20$ back them. slid it in and amazingly it was perfect. few years and 100s of nitrous passes later it got a bit back, off the the yard again.

never been to a drive shaft shop again. I file them under local starter and alternator repair shops. all a waste is time and money. it's great in theory to support small business like that till it's you're time or money lost by doing it.

when my 96 needed a drift shaft, back when I actually knew people at worked at dealers, told him to look up a oem one and grab it for me. I hate vibrations with a passion. so I'd get a oem one even if it's used over a built one from a local. I know there's big companies that will make you good ones for racing. but that even more money.

 

[j91z28d1]

Interesting. I have never had an issue ordering parts for my 21 year old Denali or my 15 year old Silverado. There has always been 2-3 different quality levels of parts from not only ACDelco but others like Moog etc so they can compete with and grab some of the business from the cheap parts manufacturers, who have also been around since the very beginning. I have never bought the inexpensive lines myself- I figure those are there for the shops to sell so they can get repeat business when those parts fail prematurely or for the people who just want the vehicle fixed cheaply so they can sell it and pass the problems onto an unsuspecting buyer. If you want quality and value your time, buy the manufacturer’s OE parts. If you don’t want to pay the price, buy the cheapest line of aftermarket parts and plan on replacing them early. There are some aftermarket parts that are an actual improved design over OE but you need to do your research.

I'll keep buying from them, in fact I have since. it's just dumb to thrown 3 gals of coolent in a box with just some air bags and my plugs. the 2nd order made it in little over a week. it looked like it fell off a cliff, but didn't leak. all the air bags were flat and my plugs had the boxes so crushed 2 of them were loose rolling around.

I would have bought oe hoses, but they legit does exist anymore. closest I found was a acdelco professional line, which looks identical to the Dorman line, no quick connects on the lines either. had to find a 3/4in barb to quick connect, at least that was oe. seems normal trucks run 5/8 they make in upgraded metal.


but again, I don't consider oe anything that great. it's just the autoparts stuff is so so bad. I'll keep my old hoses hanging on the wall for when my new ones blow out lol

 

[Rocket Man]

I'll keep buying from them, in fact I have since. it's just dumb to thrown 3 gals of coolent in a box with just some air bags and my plugs. the 2nd order made it in little over a week. it looked like it fell off a cliff, but didn't leak. all the air bags were flat and my plugs had the boxes so crushed 2 of them were loose rolling around.

I would have bought oe hoses, but they legit does exist anymore. closest I found was a acdelco professional line, which looks identical to the Dorman line, no quick connects on the lines either. had to find a 3/4in barb to quick connect, at least that was oe. seems normal trucks run 5/8 they make in upgraded metal.


but again, I don't consider oe anything that great. it's just the autoparts stuff is so so bad. I'll keep my old hoses hanging on the wall for when my new ones blow out lol

Well, coolant is not something I would have shipped. That I buy from a local auto parts store but I’ve had all sorts of other fluid shipped. I believe if your stuff being delivered is in bad shape when you receive it, it’s more to do with your local delivery people than anything else. I have never had a single item damaged in all the years I’ve been ordering online. For hoses and such, Gates has always been a great quality product on par with OEM. They sell replacement hoses and water pumps for our trucks. I highly recommend them.

 

[j91z28d1]

Well, coolant is not something I would have shipped. That I buy from a local auto parts store but I’ve had all sorts of other fluid shipped. I believe if your stuff being delivered is in bad shape when you receive it, it’s more to do with your local delivery people than anything else. I have never had a single item damaged in all the years I’ve been ordering online. For hoses and such, Gates has always been a great quality product on par with OEM. They sell replacement hoses and water pumps for our trucks. I highly recommend them.

I figured I'd try millings water pump this time.. they make good oil pumps at least haha. and their lifters are said to be good. I got the t
kit with t stat and housing housing is cheap and they sent a motorad stat. so that's crap, I ordered a oem stat and reuse the housing. they had a good deal on non premix acdelco dexcool. since the hybrid inverter is a separate but combined water cooled low pressure thing and I'm flushing it all at the same time. figure 11$ a gal was worth it over auto parts store price and brands. last thing I want is tiny cooling passages in the inverter cloging up.

it was definitely not packed well, I can't really blame FedEx for this one. they struggle a lot with bigger heavier packages. some of the stuff we get delivered looks like it was tossed off a cliff. but this just had no thought put into it. the 2 car batteries boxes were. in bad shape too. but they atleast tried to pack them well.

I definitely don't have your luck ordering parts. I once ordered a cosmetic head gasket set off Amazon. they folded them in half and stuffed them in a smaller box. it's always interesting to see what surprise is inside. at least they have easy returns haha.

 

[rmaker]

Update #4 - Got the new steel drive shaft, got on the highway - no shakes. So hopefully that has been sorted now.

New issue - I went out this afternoon to do some odds and ends and the battery was dead. Brand new AC Delco battery only about a week old. I definitely have a parasitic drain happening. I had suspected as much when the first battery died but I kind of chalked it up to being old and having the hood/tailgate open for hours. I suck at electrical stuff but was able to hook up a meter to the negative terminal and negative cable (disconnected) and had a 3.58 mv draw. Gonna have a buddy with a better meter and some electrical knowledge give me a hand going through the fuses tomorrow.

Who has dealt with a parasitic drain and what did it end up being?

 

[OR VietVet]

You sure it was not ma draw instead of mv draw? I think is the same numerical reading anyway. I just always test in ma. On a draw that big, I would go right to the alternator and unplug it and see if it goes away. If it does, you need to replace alternator and after install, run the same draw test to verify. If the draw stays, start pulling fuses one at a time. When you see the draw go away, that is the circuit with the problem. Be aware that a "circuit" may have a few things that are powered up by that one fuse. Or you could get lucky and have just one thing on that circuit. Whatever way it is, start unplugging items on that fuse/circuit and stop when the draw goes away. Then address the problem of that item or circuit that is causing the draw. You could also pull relays from under the hood as well.

 

[Fless]

If you were reading current a 3.58 mA draw is nothing, essentially perfect. Kind of doubt the meter reads that low in mA. Sure it wasn't 3.58 Amps?

See this link for info on earlier models and a decent general video on parasitic draw diag. There are many more out there...

Weird current draw

Has anyone ever experienced a parasitic draw that would alternate between .7 and 3.4 amps? I thought I was having connection issues with my meter, but even once I had solid connections the draw would still change. It seemed to change about every 20 seconds or so. I don't know if I'm dealing...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[OR VietVet]

If you were reading current a 3.58 mA draw is nothing, essentially perfect. Kind of doubt the meter reads that low in mA. Sure it wasn't 3.58 Amps?

See this link for info on earlier models and a decent general video on parasitic draw diag. There are many more out there...

Weird current draw

Has anyone ever experienced a parasitic draw that would alternate between .7 and 3.4 amps? I thought I was having connection issues with my meter, but even once I had solid connections the draw would still change. It seemed to change about every 20 seconds or so. I don't know if I'm dealing...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

My bad @Fless, we used to say that 50 ma was the norm and then the newer vehicles drew more and the scale changed. I read his reading wrong and thought he meant 358 ma instead of 358 mv.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@rmaker are you sure the battery is dead?

 

[rmaker]

@rmaker are you sure the battery is dead?

Battery was at @5-6v

 

[Fless]

My bad @Fless, we used to say that 50 ma was the norm and then the newer vehicles drew more and the scale changed. I read his reading wrong and thought he meant 358 ma instead of 358 mv.

Got it. I don't doubt that 50mA is easily doable in the NNBS rigs, and in reality it ought to be at least half that when everything is asleep.

 

[OR VietVet]

Got it. I don't doubt that 50mA is easily doable in the NNBS rigs, and in reality it ought to be at least half that when everything is asleep.

Yea, I looked for draws on vehicles before Keep Alive Memory came about and then had to adapt as the years rolled by. I think I read somewhere that the "allowable" draw ranges from 75 ma to 100 ma and I guess on some rigs, maybe even more. To me, that is too much but that is dinosaur thinking.

 

[rmaker]

Ok - some corrections and minor updates.

I cleaned the ground wire connector to the firewall yesterday and the negative battery cable to the block today. When testing yesterday, I kept opening and closing the circuit which is why I kept getting the 3.58 amp initial drain. I bridged today with a jumper from post to the cable end and attached probes to each.

With the meter between the neg batt cable terminal and the neg batt post, bridged with a jumper cable - I opened a door, and get an initial 3.58-3.6 Amp draw (its amps, I had said MA in a previous post) within a minute or two this drops down to 1.6 - 1.8 amps, then .4 and .1, resulting in a final "drain" of 6 - 10 milliamps (ma).

This is well within range/tolerances and should not be enough to drain a battery.
The only thing I did was clean one end of the braided ground cable against the Firewall and the negative battery cable end where it is attached to the block. I cannot imagine this was enough, but maybe it was - my recent luck would disagree though.

I am gonna take voltage readings every hour to see if the battery drains, will clean the grounds under/attached to the frame. and maybe get a battery switch so I can test for amp drain without having to reset the circuit each time.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@rmaker when I first got my Tahoe I had a problem where it wouldn’t start. Ended up being the negative battery cable, I had to jerk it around for it to make enough connection that I could start my Tahoe, keep an eye out on that one I’ve known dozens others who have had negative battery cable problems

 

[OR VietVet]

Yea, check all battery cable connections, corrosion under the insulation too. You can check voltage drop from one end to the other too.

 

[rmaker]

Minor update - after chasing what I think/thought was/is a parasitic drain yesterday and seeing no significant actual drain I started fresh this am.

I currently have multimeter hooked up inline between disconnected neg batt cable and neg batt post. Vehicle is fully asleep. There is a steady .01 amp draw that fluctuates to .02 amps. This indicates a 10 to 20 ma drain. Which I believe is normal? Can anyone confirm that there is in fact a certain amount of xxma drain that is "normal", should it ever be zero?

Also, I drove it last night short 5 min drive, it sat for @4 hours. Started no problem, cae home, parked it. Tested Battey this a and it was 12.3v. so seems that no drain occured overnight.

 

[OR VietVet]

Minor update - after chasing what I think/thought was/is a parasitic drain yesterday and seeing no significant actual drain I started fresh this am.

I currently have multimeter hooked up inline between disconnected neg batt cable and neg batt post. Vehicle is fully asleep. There is a steady .01 amp draw that fluctuates to .02 amps. This indicates a 10 to 20 ma drain. Which I believe is normal? Can anyone confirm that there is in fact a certain amount of xxma drain that is "normal", should it ever be zero?

Also, I drove it last night short 5 min drive, it sat for @4 hours. Started no problem, cae home, parked it. Tested Battey this a and it was 12.3v. so seems that no drain occured overnight.

Yes, .02 amps is 20 ma. That is completely acceptable. As I was saying earlier to @Fless, years ago when I ran and worked in shops, a 50 ma draw was acceptable and nowadays more ma draw is acceptable for the "Keep Alive Memory". If you did not have KAM, you would have to reset saved radio stations each time you started the vehicle and modules need power while sitting too.

 

[j91z28d1]

can you check to see if someone turned after blow option on?

 

[donjetman]

Minor update - after chasing what I think/thought was/is a parasitic drain yesterday and seeing no significant actual drain I started fresh this am.

I currently have multimeter hooked up inline between disconnected neg batt cable and neg batt post. Vehicle is fully asleep. There is a steady .01 amp draw that fluctuates to .02 amps. This indicates a 10 to 20 ma drain. Which I believe is normal? Can anyone confirm that there is in fact a certain amount of xxma drain that is "normal", should it ever be zero?

Also, I drove it last night short 5 min drive, it sat for @4 hours. Started no problem, cae home, parked it. Tested Battey this a and it was 12.3v. so seems that no drain occured overnight.

12.3v is about 60% charged

 

[Fless]

Yes, there is some keep-alive power always being used, but it's minimal. Anything under 50 mA is acceptable, and the draw you noted is perfect.

You'll want to get it out on the highway and run it for a while to get the battery charged up. Running short intervals like little errands don't allow them to fully charge.