What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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ScottyBoy

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This made me laugh when I really wanted to cry...
View attachment 389621While on the side of the road with a destroyed rim, flat tire and brake caliper issue the other day I was waiting for flatbed and noticed this:

The temperature display on the mirror reading 70-71 F... I am in MA and it was snowing!

Normally, it seems to be very accurate all the time. Today, it seems to be back to normal. It was reading 30 F when I left the house this morning, which was correct. Maybe because I was parked and idling for a good hour...
I've had mine read a LOT higher than normal when sitting for a long extended period idling. The sensor is right behind the front grill by the AC condenser, so I'm adding that it gets much hotter in that area when idling versus when moving and having air flowing around it.
I knew it had to do with sitting that idling because as soon as I started driving it went back to normal withing a minute or so.
 

YukonBrian

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Thanks, I was just about to ask this same question. I assume since you are referencing 105A and 130A alts that this 175A alt is the 4 pin 00-04 style, not the 2 pin 05+ style. I was looking at a 175A at Rockauto, if so this might be what I was looking at.

As noted above by mattbta, the alternator is actually 145 amp. Not sure where I got the 175 number from. Wishful thinking I guess.

It is a 4pin style part though.
 

drewtx154

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I had a leaking rear diff cover since I bought my 2002 Chevy Tahoe LT 2WD 5.3 with A LOT of miles on this frame (I'm thinking possibly close to 600,000 miles, tranny has been rebuilt I do believe, and also maybe engine but not too sure on that) back in Sept 2022.... So I replaced the gasket but I saw this when cover was off. Is this semi normal/common?? IMO it isn't too bad and I would think if there was a lot more and bigger chunks then I would be more worried? Let me know what y'all may think. I appreciate any and all feedback. Have a great day everyone!!
 

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Sam Harris

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Just gonna leave this here, for anyone who NEEDS some of these plug wires, because, with these trucks, we definitely need headers. And when you install headers, well, you’d be silly not to replace those plug wires.. and of course plugs too, and I’d recommend some ARP header bolts.. but I digress.. I’ve been quite happy with my Accel 9070C ceramic wires, but these look great. Remind me of some that @Rocket Man got on eBay. Red and black options:
 

Sam Harris

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Finally got my front crank seal replaced last week. I had done it when I did all the top end work before the move, but with 230k on the motor, the balancer was worn enough that the new crank seal just started leaking pretty quickly. So replaced the crank seal, new balancer, and another ARP crank bolt, just to be safe. Really happy to have that done. It was spewing down the underside of poor Lucy for about 6 months. Also seems to have bumped the oil pressure up even more, or I could just be super sensitive to that. I wanted the “OEM” spring to be used in my Melling HV pump, but I need to dig out the box and verify. It comes with an “OEM” spring, and a high pressure spring. I’ll dig that up, and see what’s in the box, because it seems far higher than OEM. Warm idle sits at about 45 psi, and just a little RPM, and it’s at 60. Hammer down, ok even 1/2 hammer down, and she’s at 80. Lol. Hoping the seal reduces my oil consumption, as it’s been significantly more than before the upgrades. Obviously, with the higher volume Melling pump, that can contribute, to higher pressure, but I haven’t seen more in the catch can. I’m assuming the heads, and cam also contribute to more oil consumption, with the unmolested, very well worn bottom end. (Blow by). Kinda hoping the oil was coming out the crank seal, but there was never much on the ground.

And the best part, is I met a great guy -mechanic who let me use his lift and tools to do the work myself! (Charged me $50 for the bay time) I’ve been having a hard time finding a good mechanic after my move, and feel blessed to have this opportunity now. I wish I had the room for a full size lift in my home shop, but I can only fit a shorter one. Not sure it’s worth the $$ for just a couple feet of height.
 

Rocket Man

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Just gonna leave this here, for anyone who NEEDS some of these plug wires, because, with these trucks, we definitely need headers. And when you install headers, well, you’d be silly not to replace those plug wires.. and of course plugs too, and I’d recommend some ARP header bolts.. but I digress.. I’ve been quite happy with my Accel 9070C ceramic wires, but these look great. Remind me of some that @Rocket Man got on eBay. Red and black options:
Yep those look the same as the EBay ones I bought, just with TSP on them. I wonder if they’re having that same vendor make them with their logo so they can resell them.
 

blueinkd

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Just gonna leave this here, for anyone who NEEDS some of these plug wires, because, with these trucks, we definitely need headers. And when you install headers, well, you’d be silly not to replace those plug wires.. and of course plugs too, and I’d recommend some ARP header bolts.. but I digress.. I’ve been quite happy with my Accel 9070C ceramic wires, but these look great. Remind me of some that @Rocket Man got on eBay. Red and black options:
That's nice!! They must have recently started adding their logo like that? I'm using solid red ones from them about 2 years now.
 

Electrician

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Well the upgrade alternator I got from Pick a Part last year took a **** on me. I've been seeing my Voltage gauge bounce lately and my scanner was reading spikes over 15 volts the last few days. I already assumed bad Voltage Regulator, but I removed the plastic end cap to look and found a part of the rectifier broken. I think I may do a rebuild kit on it in my spare time. Never done one before but I'm pretty sure I can tackle it
New one I had to buy:
82C8CFD3-F61F-4C5A-899D-7815A28065A6.jpeg


Old one with cap removed (broken piece inside yellow circle)
D0F56AAA-FFC5-4CE0-B2FC-E3421F0E525E.jpeg
 

MassHoe04

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Truck has developed a high pitch whistling which I'm assuming may be coming from a loose end. I'm also noticing the hoses have collapse to almost flat! Any insight on this
Kind looks like of like vacuum pulling opposite directions on each of the two tubes on your catch can.

Is there any remote chance one of the hoses is connected to a fitting where the flow is the opposite way?
Almost like the flow is pulling away from your can on both lines instead of following a one-way direction of flow through the can.

The whistle could be air sneaking in at the connection on one of you puckered hoses...

Maybe there is only two places to attache those hoses and they actually are in the right place. Just trying to come up with possible explanations for why your hoses flatten and the new whistling sound.

Good luck!
 

blueinkd

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Kind looks like of like vacuum pulling opposite directions on each of the two tubes on your catch can.

Is there any remote chance one of the hoses is connected to a fitting where the flow is the opposite way?
Almost like the flow is pulling away from your can on both lines instead of following a one-way direction of flow through the can.

The whistle could be air sneaking in at the connection on one of you puckered hoses...

Maybe there is only two places to attache those hoses and they actually are in the right place. Just trying to come up with possible explanations for why your hoses flatten and the new whistling sound.

Good luck!
Thanks for your insight. The connection at valve cover goes to IN port on can and the OUT port is going to the upper intake port. I used low pressure fuel line for the hose runs. I may go back with trans/power steering hose which tends to be a bit more robust/stiffer to help maintain hose shape. I will take a peak when o get home from work today. Left it st home and jumped in the other truck
 

MassHoe04

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Thanks for your insight. The connection at valve cover goes to IN port on can and the OUT port is going to the upper intake port. I used low pressure fuel line for the hose runs. I may go back with trans/power steering hose which tends to be a bit more robust/stiffer to help maintain hose shape. I will take a peak when o get home from work today. Left it st home and jumped in the other truck
OK. I figured there probably weren't too many places to have connections in the wrong place. But I know I can surprise myself on my own projects sometimes, so I had to ask to be sure...
 

jcarriere

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Finally got around to posting these pics. I installed a center console and escalade roof racks on my burban.
 

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ScottyBoy

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Finally got my truck back from the shop that has been doing my engine install for the past few weeks. It's been a long time coming, I slipped a camshaft bearing last year and finally sourced a crate engine after many months of being on backorder. Then I dropped it off just after the 1st of the year to get it installed. All's good except for the fact that all my AC refrigerant leaked out while my truck has been parked for the last 11 months. I knew I had a slow leak, but I guess it was worse than I thought.
 

mattbta

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Drove it 30 miles round trip to have lunch with my dad. When I got back, left it running in the garage to go grab an Android device and load Torque up to check my LTFT's.

While connecting everything, I heard the fans kick on (ac was off) so that means the programming works! Wahoo!

Now to determine if it's worth the spend to pick up a set of K5L fans/shroud. Hrmm....
 

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