Rear defroster not working

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SnowDrifter

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Well..... I Noticed my rear defroster ain't working

Fuse under the hood has power
Rear cables have power when disconnected from the defrost tabs
But when connected to the tabs, voltage at said connectors drops to 0v. Not even 1-2v, friggin' 0.0v. Like... dammit....

Wiper is fine. Defrost, is not.

I reckon I need to start tracing wires and looking at connectors. Anyone have insight on junctions / plugs / ground / places to look? It's cold and snowing outside and I'm not much looking to rip apart my interior any more than I need to
 

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Well..... I Noticed my rear defroster ain't working

Fuse under the hood has power
Rear cables have power when disconnected from the defrost tabs
But when connected to the tabs, voltage at said connectors drops to 0v. Not even 1-2v, friggin' 0.0v. Like... dammit....

Wiper is fine. Defrost, is not.

I reckon I need to start tracing wires and looking at connectors. Anyone have insight on junctions / plugs / ground / places to look? It's cold and snowing outside and I'm not much looking to rip apart my interior any more than I need to
Remove the coiled wires at the glass, then check the 2 connectors on the glass for continuity, if no continuity then look for a break in the defrost wire on the glass and repair if possible.
 
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SnowDrifter

SnowDrifter

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Well

****
She'd dead, Jim
Gonna need both sides of the harness. Can I get a hand tracking down part numbers? My google-fu is weak on this one and I'm not turning anything up


PXL_20221221_174808396.jpg
PXL_20221221_174804498.jpg
 

S33k3r

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Well

****
She'd dead, Jim
Gonna need both sides of the harness. Can I get a hand tracking down part numbers? My google-fu is weak on this one and I'm not turning anything up


View attachment 387859View attachment 387858
Are those connectors in a hatch wiring harness? I ask because it might be cheaper to buy a whole rear door. In many cases, people are just looking for the glass or the Escalade brake light; they leave behind a full hatch. People with the left-behind hatch tend to sell them cheap. You can steal the wiring and junk the hatch.
 
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SnowDrifter

SnowDrifter

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Are those connectors in a hatch wiring harness? I ask because it might be cheaper to buy a whole rear door. In many cases, people are just looking for the glass or the Escalade brake light; they leave behind a full hatch. People with the left-behind hatch tend to sell them cheap. You can steal the wiring and junk the hatch.
Kind of
It's the hatch-to-body harness connector. Body side, by the hinge
Looks like there's a sub-harness that has the hatch side covered
But I cannot, for the life of me, find the chassis side

Grrr.... If this didn't interface with a weather seal, I'd just do my own harness with some beefier bits
 
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SnowDrifter

SnowDrifter

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The closest I see is the Standard Motor Products S-1321, but it doesn't seem to have the pin guide blue cover on the female connector. Look it up and there are additional pics online.

View attachment 387864
View attachment 387865
Nice thanks!
Managed to find the OE one

But even that doesn't have the pin guide. Strange
Can't seem to find the actual harness anywhere though. I hate cutting wires and rather just re-harness and be done, but I can't find a part number for it anywhere. Grrrrr
 

Fless

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All I see for the liftgate harness is GM 15118093. Good luck with availability if that's the one.

EDIT: maybe 40438, 121165, or 15173014 SWAGes
 
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George B

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Found the lift-gate side I think.


 

George B

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I’m not one to do half assed repairs but hear me out.

What if you de-pin the four bad pins from connectors and then plug them back together. Then, run a pair of wires though the spaces in the connectors and solder/heatshrink them. You can force some RTV throught the connector and be on your way. You may never need to touch that connector again.

Just tossing it out there.
 

crownvic31

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I’m not one to do half assed repairs but hear me out.

What if you de-pin the four bad pins from connectors and then plug them back together. Then, run a pair of wires though the spaces in the connectors and solder/heatshrink them. You can force some RTV throught the connector and be on your way. You may never need to touch that connector again.

Just tossing it out there.

Seen this done on youtube and it works nicely.
 

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