MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Is that metal shavings I see stuck with the grease? If it was a new part, maybe it is still under 12 month parts warranty from manufacturer.
What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter vwbeaner
- Start date
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
I think it's only grease. I'm just gonna leave it for now. Brakes are my top priority for now.
Passed emissions and bought tags today. They passed more fees onto vehicles this year, especially gas guzzlers although I don’t understand why they labeled The Beast a gas guzzler. 
Almost $400 for 2 years. At this rate I won’t be able to afford driving in another 40 years.
Almost $400 for 2 years. At this rate I won’t be able to afford driving in another 40 years.
Scottydoggs
Full Access Member
damn. all i pay here in NJ is 72 bucks a year for registration renewal. inspections are free done by the state. inspection is now a joke here tho. you will pass with a cracked windshield, bald tires, ect ect, they dont even check your lights or brakes. as long as the cel is off, all systems show ready in their scan and they see a cat when they drive over the cam in the floor. you will pass. and inspection is good for 2 years.Passed emissions and bought tags today. They passed more fees onto vehicles this year, especially gas guzzlers although I don’t understand why they labeled The Beast a gas guzzler.
Also my touch screen in my Pioneer AVH4400NEX has been displaying weird lines through it for awhile. If I touch or tap it things usually go back to normal. I found a new screen for $35 on eBay. I hope it’s not too hard to replace but I feel if I can replace one on my iPad I should be ok. I was just looking on Crutchfield and they are almost completely out of Pioneers except the ones for $900, $1200 and $1300.
Yep but then they add enough salt to your roads that your car ends up disintegrating before your very eyes so I guess you pay one way or another. We have no stinking inspections either.
latvius
Full Access Member
Yeah here in Alabama I don't remember the cost (I renew in Jan.) but it was under $200 total for four vehicles and 2 trailers, no inspections. Here people still say hello, hold the door open and say please and thank you.Yep but then they add enough salt to your roads that your car ends up disintegrating before your very eyes so I guess you pay one way or another. We have no stinking inspections either.
Holy crap - I only pay $135 for two years here in Southern Maryland. Only a one time inspection here when you first buy and register the vehicle. No emissions testing required where I live.Passed emissions and bought tags today. They passed more fees onto vehicles this year, especially gas guzzlers although I don’t understand why they labeled The Beast a gas guzzler.
Our tax system here is weird too, there’s no sales tax so they get you in different ways. This is one of them. But beware- just 2 years ago it only cost me about $250 for 2 years so it might go up where you live too. They have to pay for new roads somehow, and with better fuel efficiency and electric cars becoming the norm they aren’t getting it from gas taxes. That’s been discussed for years so if it happens there too you can thank all those Priuses on the road. Every time I see one I think “thief” because they don’t pay gas taxes yet they’re driving around on the roads that gas taxes paid for.
Great point - guess I need to start taking a few out. Tiny little bastards. Oops can I say that....
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Be careful what bear gets poked... As soon as they figure out the taxes collected from gas is going down, they'll be looking to implement use tax based on miles driven. Which is probably the fair thing to do in the end, rather than things like our (MA) Excise tax based on what the state says the value of your vehicle is (more than 6% annually). Just make sure you work as close to home as possible, if not 100% at home, to minimize your miles traveled.
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
Just ordered a new audio head unit.
Crutchfield advisor (JP) was super helpful in finding what I needed at a price I could afford...
Was looking for NoCD/DVD, ability to stream music from my phone, make/answer phone, see/hear Google Maps directions.
I figure I may just go back to Spotify Premium through the unlimited phone data, so I didn't need anything XM ready.
I just ordered:
Crutchfield advisor (JP) was super helpful in finding what I needed at a price I could afford...
Was looking for NoCD/DVD, ability to stream music from my phone, make/answer phone, see/hear Google Maps directions.
I figure I may just go back to Spotify Premium through the unlimited phone data, so I didn't need anything XM ready.
I just ordered:
ITEM | | QTY | PRICE |
Boss BE7ACP | 1 | $259.99 | |
MasterSheet Installation Instructions | MasterSheet Installation Instructions We will send your MasterSheet™ by email. | 1 | $0.00 |
Boss Audio exclusive 5-year wa | Boss Audio exclusive 5-year wa | 1 | $0.00 |
Metra 40-GM10 Antenna Adapter | 1 | $5.45 | |
Metra 95-2001 Dash Kit (Black) | 1 | $10.91 | |
Crux CS-GMC2 Wiring Interface | 1 | $60.61 | |
Crutchfield ReadyHarness™ Service | 1 | $24.99 |
| | Subtotal: | $361.95 |
Sales tax (MA): | $21.06 | ||
Shipping: | Free | ||
Order total | $383.01 |
Pilot
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2017
- Posts
- 332
- Reaction score
- 748
Daaaaamn $260?? That’s awesome! I paid $1100 for my Kenwood DNX994S and I HATE it.
Logan5
Full Access Member
So I'm over 210k miles and I hear that drone/whine coming from the rear end when I take my foot off the pedal going downhill. Also a little on accelerating.
The rear end was re-done at 125k miles (according to my uncle who owned the truck before me).
So I figure it was (or partly was) the u-joints. So I buy some nice new spicer non grease-able u-joints and put them in. Wasn't too hard, torches the old ones til the plastic oozed out, and have a u-joint press so it wasn't tough.
Put it all back together and figure I am good to go. Get on the highway and start to feel a vibration at 70mph. Uhggg.
So trying to figure out what it is, and realize I didn't mark the yoke and so I can't be sure I didn't rotate the yoke 180 degrees when I put it back together.
So, pull the shaft again, press out the u-joints again, (this time very easy), rotate, re-assemble.
Hit the highway to test and the damn vibration is still there. Uhhgg x 2.
So take the drive shaft to a local place that specializes in drive shafts and drop it off to get balanced.
Get a call today, says the drive shaft run-out is excessive (.021 and .024 IIRC). Wants $500 to weld in a new pipe (salvaging my bran new U-joints)
I said no thank you and picked up my shaft. He still charged me $60.
I have to drive to NY -> Florida this weekend so I can't do it with this shaft so there is another Tahoe here. Doesn't get drive much. So I swap the shafts. This one has 150k miles on it.
Highway test went fine so I'm good to go to FL this weekend. But the bad shaft with the new joints is still in the other tahoe. Not that it'll ever get on the highway, its more of a spare car for short trips. But I started looking at new shafts on rockauto and Napa. About $350 give or take. (for my rear wheel drive tahoe).
Anyone have experience with a replacement or aftermarket shaft? Or should I just try to get one from a junk yard?
The rear end was re-done at 125k miles (according to my uncle who owned the truck before me).
So I figure it was (or partly was) the u-joints. So I buy some nice new spicer non grease-able u-joints and put them in. Wasn't too hard, torches the old ones til the plastic oozed out, and have a u-joint press so it wasn't tough.
Put it all back together and figure I am good to go. Get on the highway and start to feel a vibration at 70mph. Uhggg.
So trying to figure out what it is, and realize I didn't mark the yoke and so I can't be sure I didn't rotate the yoke 180 degrees when I put it back together.
So, pull the shaft again, press out the u-joints again, (this time very easy), rotate, re-assemble.
Hit the highway to test and the damn vibration is still there. Uhhgg x 2.
So take the drive shaft to a local place that specializes in drive shafts and drop it off to get balanced.
Get a call today, says the drive shaft run-out is excessive (.021 and .024 IIRC). Wants $500 to weld in a new pipe (salvaging my bran new U-joints)
I said no thank you and picked up my shaft. He still charged me $60.
I have to drive to NY -> Florida this weekend so I can't do it with this shaft so there is another Tahoe here. Doesn't get drive much. So I swap the shafts. This one has 150k miles on it.
Highway test went fine so I'm good to go to FL this weekend. But the bad shaft with the new joints is still in the other tahoe. Not that it'll ever get on the highway, its more of a spare car for short trips. But I started looking at new shafts on rockauto and Napa. About $350 give or take. (for my rear wheel drive tahoe).
Anyone have experience with a replacement or aftermarket shaft? Or should I just try to get one from a junk yard?
Logan5
Full Access Member
Oh and the other shaft greatly reduced the whine/drone I was hearing. Not completely gone but down more than half.
Yep I’m retired and drive a couple thousand miles a year so I should be exempt.
MassHoe04
Full Access Member
If anyone missed it...
5 YR. Warranty!!!
Boss must feel confident they are selling quality equipment, with that kind of coverage. Crutchfield really seems to sell a lot of their product.
mattbta
Full Access Member
When I had my rear main done, the shop didn't see that I previously marked the orientation at the rear diff. I know this, because there are now two sets of marks I discovered trying to reinstall when I took it out to grease the slip yoke. I'm noticing an odd vibration at 55 MPH but goes away at higher speed (I have 3.73's). I suppose I could get under there and flip it and see if it goes away. If not, I might have to look for a shop to balance like you attempted...but yeah, I'm out if it's $500. Might as well have a custom aluminum made at that point.
Should a bought a Pioneer, I love both of mine.
So the other day, while accelerating, I felt an intermittent vibration. Nothing crazy, but I noticed it. Seemed like possibly a u-joint.. I have not heard any actual noise. I had a look underneath today, and the rear diff has some grease covering it, but not terrible. I did notice the vent line was on, but not fully seated on the diff. I cleaned it up a bit, and seated the vent fully. U-joints all seem 100% solid, but they are the originals, with the nylon. I also noticed a bit of grease where the driveshaft goes into the transmission tail housing. To be honest, I remember this had some grease before I had the transmission replaced, back in July, and it didn’t seem very fresh, so I’m wondering if that’s old residue. However, I did notice some play in that area if I pull on the driveshaft. Is this normal..?
