Ball Joints and Sway Bar links

[iamdub]

Thanks again everyone. I will go with Genuine GM where I can find them, or CK series MOOG

Probably a silly question at this point, but with almost 100k on the clock, and needing to remove the struts to remove the LCAs, should I go with new struts also? The Monroes seem to get good reviews...

Also - I remember a shop telling me in the past that there was a worn tie rod, but they did not specify inner or outer. I'll probably need to replace those too... Hoping it's not an inner tie rod that's worn

Edit: confirmed it is an inner tie rod that had failed. Any idea on what size wrench / inner tie rod removal tool?

The strut doesn't need to be removed to replace any of the control arms. Just remove the bottom two bolts.

But, if you wanna replace it all, now would be a good time.

 

[gooffeyguy]

The strut doesn't need to be removed to replace any of the control arms. Just remove the bottom two bolts.

But, if you wanna replace it all, now would be a good time.

Doesn't the strut/spring get in the way when removing the upper control arm bolts? I know my bolts have the heads on the inside, towards the struts.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Here is a cheat video to replace the lower arms. Only thing this guy failed to point out is to break the stud loose off the knuckle before unbolting the lower arm bolts from the frame. I unbolted the arms first like he did and I had a HELL of a time trying to break the stud loose with the arm flopping around. And being on the ground instead of a high lift you can't get a good swing on the hammer. Loosen the nut on the stud to leave a gap but don't remove it so it catches it from falling and bang it loose.

I have a question about the CV shafts. When they're unbolted from the differential end, is there fluid or a seal there?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Thanks again everyone. I will go with Genuine GM where I can find them, or CK series MOOG

Probably a silly question at this point, but with almost 100k on the clock, and needing to remove the struts to remove the LCAs, should I go with new struts also? The Monroes seem to get good reviews...

Also - I remember a shop telling me in the past that there was a worn tie rod, but they did not specify inner or outer. I'll probably need to replace those too... Hoping it's not an inner tie rod that's worn

Edit: confirmed it is an inner tie rod that had failed. Any idea on what size wrench / inner tie rod removal tool?

Inner tie rod takes a 40mm or adjustable wrench. Turn the wheel towards the side your working on to get it to stick out more so you have room to get a wrench on it.

 

[Geotrash]

I have a question about the CV shafts. When they're unbolted from the differential end, is there fluid or a seal there?

Nope.

 

[Geotrash]

I did my front suspension on the 2007 about 30K miles ago and replaced everything but the hubs and magride shocks. I was under there this evening preparing for a steering rack replacement and noticed that the lower ball joint on the pax side and the outer tie rod on the driver's side both have torn dust boots and are leaking grease. Sigh. The control arm and ball joint are Moog's top line, but the tie rod was a "Driveworks" from Advanced Auto because they only had one Moog at the time. I'm a little annoyed to have to replace the parts at this time, but thankfully I do have my receipt and they're both lifetime warranty. They only lasted 3.5 years. Disappointing - especially for the Moog part.

 

[iamdub]

Doesn't the strut/spring get in the way when removing the upper control arm bolts? I know my bolts have the heads on the inside, towards the struts.

I've always had the bolts slip through the gap between the coils. Maybe some springs are clocked differently, like between the trucks and SUVs? Regardless, if it does hit, it's only three nuts to lower (if only a little clearance is needed) or remove the strut. So it's not worth fighting.

 

[89Suburban]

Doesn't the strut/spring get in the way when removing the upper control arm bolts? I know my bolts have the heads on the inside, towards the struts.

I've always had the bolts slip through the gap between the coils. Maybe some springs are clocked differently, like between the trucks and SUVs? Regardless, if it does hit, it's only three nuts to lower (if only a little clearance is needed) or remove the strut. So it's not worth fighting.

PITA trying to get those bolts in. I use a magnet to hold the bolt and try to push it in with a pry bar or something. Not much room to get my big ******** hands in there and try to line the holes up and get the bolts started.

 

[Trey Hardy]

KRYPTONITE PRODUCTS

KRYPTONITE STEERING AND SUSPENSION PRODUCTS

kryptoniteproducts.com

I’ve had great luck with my kryptonite tie rods ball joint and wheel bearings I still got to get there heavy duty sway bar links I order from Rudy’s diesel cause I live in Nc it only takes a day or two to get to my door and it all has a lifetime warranty

 

[MarshMarlowe]

Can anyone clarify whether this is the right lower control arm for my 2012 LS 2WD Tahoe? The 4WD in the description is giving me pause

More Information for GM GENUINE 20869202

www.rockauto.com

 

[OR VietVet]

It is for a 4wd rig. Not for yours. So, you are backing away from the MOOG parts?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Can anyone clarify whether this is the right lower control arm for my 2012 LS 2WD Tahoe? The 4WD in the description is giving me pause

More Information for GM GENUINE 20869202

www.rockauto.com

The easiest way to confirm the part number is to call your local GM dealer and give them your VIN, and ask them for the correct part number.

Another good method is to go to GMPartsDirect.com and enter your VIN. Then, in the search field, enter 'lower right control arm'.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

It is for a 4wd rig. Not for yours. So, you are backing away from the MOOG parts?

I think so, unless the CK series is worthwhile versus OEM?

 

[MarshMarlowe]

The easiest way to confirm the part number is to call your local GM dealer and give them your VIN, and ask them for the correct part number.

Another good method is to go to GMPartsDirect.com and enter your VIN. Then, in the search field, enter 'lower right control arm'.

Thank you. Using that method, it appears the part that I linked is correct

EDIT
The dealer won't give me the part number, but they'll be happy to order it for me. LOL

 

[Hoeston]

Sway/stabilizer bar end links and bushings were easy to replace for me. The links took some time and effort to remove the nut but an easy task. I greased the new link spindle and bushings before reinstallation(unsure if it helps but may reduce squeaks and wear). 1 of my links was completely broken, huge ride quality and steering difference. I used acdelco on my ppv.

Also here to share my experience with rockauto. After years of ordering w/out issue I was eventually getting bad parts or open or used or wrong parts or swapped brands for oem i no longer support them and will initially pay more to buy elsewhere. They no longer take phone calls and you will pay return shipping for everything even when they send you bad/wrong equipment Not worth the initial savings for me as itll end up costing more.
Plenty of cool magnets on my fridge though.

 

[Hoeston]

You may want to leave any plastic wrapped bushings sealed. This is the only original not split or warped bad. I had just removed it before this pic

 

[89Suburban]

You may want to leave any plastic wrapped bushings sealed. This is the only original not split or warped bad. I had just removed it before this pic

I'm so jealous of you guys with the 2WD's.

 

[MarshMarlowe]

Well I pulled the trigger on the 20869201/2 GM Control Arms, 2 GM inner/outer tie rods, and Moog Sway Bar links

All from RA. Fingers crossed

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thank you. Using that method, it appears the part that I linked is correct

EDIT
The dealer won't give me the part number, but they'll be happy to order it for me. LOL

Lousy dealer, but I understand. Good luck with your project, and please report back your results.

 

[OR VietVet]

Well I pulled the trigger on the 20869201/2 GM Control Arms, 2 GM inner/outer tie rods, and Moog Sway Bar links

All from RA. Fingers crossed

Are you saying the lower control arms are the same left and right? Look at the pics of this arm at the RA site. They look different to me, left and right. Just sayin'.