'01 Tahoe Front Brake DIY?

[ypsetihw]

Hi Everyone -

I'm a VW guy myself and I just started doing some work to my girlfriend's Tahoe. She is in desperate need of front brakes and while I've done brakes before, I've never had to do one on a Chevy before . . .

I ordered her ATE slotted rotors and Hawk LTS pads from Tirerack last night, and I'm looking to do this myself next week. I have a couple questions first -

Does the Tahoe have its own jack that is good enough to support the vehicle while I do the brakes? (the scissor jack that's with my jetta spare is awesome!)
Is there a DIY for brakes on here somewhere?
I know I will need to take the caliper bracket off to remove the rotor, but is there anything else goofy about the fronts?
Are they a single piston caliper or two pistons?
What brake fluid should I use for the flush (DOT 3 or 4) and is a hand pump suitable to do a brake flush on this car?

I was gonna register at tahoeforum.com but reg was broken, I just found this and hope that I can get some good info from the community. Thanks and I look forward to learning more about my Hoe!

 

[Mac]

Factory jack..suck and if you're planning on working on these big trucks you better get yourself some...
1. 3 Ton Jack and stand
2. Torx 55
3. 2 Piston
4. Dot 3
5. Yes

 

[rich5368]

Get yourself a chilton man. Over all brakes are brakes and these aren't that difficult but I always have either a haynes or a chiltons handy for DIY stuff

 

[El Brando]

The brakes arent too bad on these vehicles man, I'm a former VW guy myself. Im not a big guy and I do my own brakes on my tahoe. T55 is the only specialty tool youll need besides a good breaker bar lol. A Chilton would really help you alot too.

And I never put my well being in the hands of a widow maker jack. There's a reason they're called a widow maker. Just my $0.02.

 

[BOSS]

The brakes arent too bad on these vehicles man, I'm a former VW guy myself. Im not a big guy and I do my own brakes on my tahoe. T55 is the only specialty tool youll need besides a good breaker bar lol. A Chilton would really help you alot too.

And I never put my well being in the hands of a widow maker jack. There's a reason they're called a widow maker. Just my $0.02.

+1 get yourself a good floor jack like this one if you're going to work under a 6k lb. truck my friend...we already had one member drop his on himself and break an arm due to doing things incorrect, would hate to see another due to a widow-maker

It's only $89, and I personally put the truck resting on no less than (2) stands PLUS some pressure from my jack...I love me, wont trade it for my truck falling

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...s&cm_ite=144860?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=144860


B

 

[ypsetihw]

Related question, what's the best Jack point on these trucks? Is there a pinch weld or where can I put it on the frame?

 

[rich5368]

On the front i usually use the bottom shock mount area on the lower control arm to jack it up. Or you can always use the frame. thats where I set it up when i put it on a lift.

 

[ypsetihw]

Update - I picked this stuff up today:

T-55 1/2" drive - on sale at Checker's for $3
Floor Jack - 2 ton hydraulic jack with a pair of 2 ton jack stands - $35!!! woOt
New can o' Brakecleen - $3.50

Just need an adapter for my 3/8 to 1/2" drive and the brake parts themselves. I'm looking forward to this!

On the front i usually use the bottom shock mount area on the lower control arm to jack it up. Or you can always use the frame. thats where I set it up when i put it on a lift.

Last question, so when I jack it up on the lower shock mount, can I put the jack stand on the crossmember of the A-arm? or where? I guess I just need to crawl under there first . . . I know this sounds stupid but do you have a pic?

 

[Mac]

Follow these steps.....

1. Break or loosen lug nuts..IMPORTANT!! (Don't remove nuts)
2. Jack Truck on the side frame......
3. Set Frame on jack stand.....
4. Use jack as back up support but let the stand take full weight.
(jack and stand holding truck)
5. Loosen, remove nuts and tire....
6. Clamp Caliper...relieve pressure.
7. Torx 55...remove caliper bolts....
8. Take caliper off...support it with wire ...or something don't let it hang..remove brakes..
9. Remove Caliper bracket...remove rotor..
10. Reverse 9-1 to install...

(not sure if those 2 ton jack has enough height)

 

[ypsetihw]

Just to make sure I'm not later when I bend something and my girl tries to my dick off . . .

I checked the factory manual and crawled under there to take some pics. First, this is a pic of behind the front passenger tire - is this the "lower shock mount" you said I could jack it from?

Second, here's the underside behind the same front passenger side, you can see the frame and the body mount with the two thin metal strips coming towards the camera. The jack stand location is where the frame "doubles up" just behind the body mount (note the arrow) correct?

---------- Post added at 03:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:19 PM ----------

(not sure if those 2 ton jack has enough height)

The jack lifts to 13" . . . are you suggesting that it won't reach high enough to get the tire off? In the worst case scenario, can I use the factory bottle jack to get it up on jack stands?

 

[rich5368]

Those are the spots I use personally. Wal-mart brand brake clean is a little cheaper. I paid like $2.75 for it. Some guys jack from the frame point there and put the stand there as well.

 

[Mac]

LOL...no offense.. but if you can't figure out how to jack the truck up you're gonna need some help before you hurt yourself...

(These Trucks are big not some civic or a mini)

 

[ypsetihw]

lol roger that . . . seriously though I'm not at all worried about the mechanical aspects and if it were my car it wouldn't be a question, but my girl is a little touchy with her t-hoe and I just wanted make sure of the jack points before I bent something (like I said I'm used to pinch welds and scissor jacks) . . . thank you for your concern

 

[rich5368]

When in doubt use the frame. You can't go wrong.

 

[blrmkrl83]

Just remember that no matter what you are doing, even if you are just going to be under there for a second, use jack stands. There was a guy killed a couple weeks ago near me when his car fell on him. SAFETY FIRST!!!!!!!!

 

[ypsetihw]

Well the jack can lift it and the stands are high enough, but without a 4x4 under it I can't clear the wheel off the ground . . . off to home depot . . .

The new brake parts got here today - ATE slotted rotors and Hawk LTS Pads

ATE PremiumOne Disc Brake Rotors offer these advantages and benefits to the owners of domestic, European and Asian vehicles.

OE-engineered SealOriginal Equipment quality with premium features you can see that add convenience and help to enhance performance.

•Patented RotorLife wear indicator - Helps technicians and vehicle owners gauge rotor thickness at a glance, and notice when they are due for replacement.
•The wear indicator's interlaced elliptical grooves are machined into the rotor face at complimentary angles. - Groove design enhances dissipation of heat and gases to reduce brake fade, extend pad life. Looks great with cast spoke wheels.
•The MetaCote protective coating formulation is cured at approximately 572°F. No grease or oil to remove - Helps protect against road salt, brake fluid and other corrosives — sheds water and dirt for clean appearance behind cast spoke wheels. Reduces overall installation time.
•Application specific design is engineered to tighter tolerances than rotors that take a "one size fits all" approach. - Fits and performs like or better than the Original Equipment it replaces — provides added value and convenience for brake technicians and their customers. No machining needed.

Heavier vehicles with larger brake systems are more likely to experience higher temperatures, requiring a brake pad that has excellent heat dissipation characteristics. Hawk Performance has applied their severe-duty friction technology to the braking demands of light trucks and SUVs. Their new LTS (Light Truck & SUV) Ferro-Carbon Compound was developed utilizing cutting edge polymer research, advanced carbon fiber processing, on-vehicle field evaluations and extensive dynamometer testing. The new compound combines the durability of Hawk Performance's commercial fleet products with the elevated stopping power of its performance street and motorsports formulations.

Key Features & Benefits of Hawk Performance LTS Brake Pads:

Improved braking over standard replacement pads
Smooth engagement
Extremely fade resistant
Low noise output
Low dust output
Extended pad life
Increased rotor life

 

[Mac]

Nice brakes!!...be careful with the 4x4 they tend to SLIP off the jack.

You know what else you could do, Jack up the truck as far as the jack could go and then set it on the STAND. Remove the jack and jack the lower arm to raise the wheel the rest of the way.

I think that would be safer than the 4x4, but if you decided to use the 4x4 have the STAND ready to catch the frame if it slip.

 

[ypsetihw]

Nice brakes!!...be careful with the 4x4 they tend to SLIP off the jack.

I wouldn't ever put a block b/w the jack and the car, no no, I mean to build a base for the jack out of a few 4x4s nailed together with 2x4s between. wider than the the jack's footprint and long enough so that it can roll a bit as the jack is extended, something like this: [ ][][ ]

Also, I like your suggestion of getting the frame up and on a stand and then finishing with the arm. I didn't want to jack the arm though because wouldn't that compress the shock? meaning that when you removed the jack the arm would fall again? Not a problem until you try to get the wheel back on.

I figure a wood base is just easier since the jack stand can reach 17" which should be more than enough to get the wheel off . . .

 

[Mac]

Don't worry about the shock...has nothing to do with the brakes. Don't remove the jack from the arm until you finish and put everything back, plenty of room to work in.

Once the tire is on then reverse everything..easier and safer...
(Frame on stand and jack on arm..) Good luck..

*edit*...jack it up side way.

 

[ypsetihw]

got it up no problem, didn't have to jack the shock

A couple things I would recommend for people doing this for the first time - get a butane torch, an 18mm deep impact socket, a 1/2" drive, and a good long piece of pipe or breaker bar - you're going to need it to get the damn caliper bracket bolts out.

I started out with a regular socket on a 3/8" ratchet and broke the socket head in half trying to budge the bolt . . . after some heat and a beefier tool, came right out