Tahoe 2007 LTZ 2WD 5.3 Transmission drips between the transmission housing and the engine block. Which seals do I need

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DJPoertsch

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Hello dear friends,
As I already wrote in the headline, my gearbox (Tahoe 2007 LTZ) is dripping directly at the connection between the gearbox housing and the engine block. What I could see in some videos is, that there is a seal behind the transmission converter. Can you tell me which provider is the best choice here, and which seals I have to change at the same time? Since I have to remove the transmission for that. Do I have to replace the converter also, or it is not necessary?

I also wanted to ask you who can tell me the best manufacturer for my Lower Front Ball Joints and Tie Rod End inner and what I look out for, when ordering from Rock Auto. Because these are knocked out and have to be changed.

Thank you guys for tips, links and support.

Markus from Germany
 
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Geotrash

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Hello dear friends,
As I already wrote in the headline, my gearbox (Tahoe 2007 LTZ) is dripping directly at the connection between the gearbox housing and the engine block. What I could see in some videos is, that there is a seal behind the transmission converter. Can you tell me which provider is the best choice here, and which seals I have to change at the same time? Since I have to remove the transmission for that. Do I have to replace the converter also, or it is not necessary?

I also wanted to ask you who can tell me the best manufacturer for my Lower Front Ball Joints and Tie Rod End inner and what I look out for, when ordering from Rock Auto. Because these are knocked out and have to be changed.

Thank you guys for tips, links and support.

Markus from Germany
I assume you verified that it's transmission fluid and not engine oil, yes?

This one.

You may also want to replace the bushing in there.
 
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DJPoertsch

DJPoertsch

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I assume you verified that it's transmission fluid and not engine oil, yes?

This one.

You may also want to replace the bushing in there.
Thanks @Geotrash for your answer. It is not Engine oil because, engine ist totally dry. It is a red oil and if you smell on it it is transmission fluid.
Thank you for your help. The bushing that I have to replace I think I have to remove the front cover and push the bushing out. Because otherwise you have no chance to replace the bushing.
Right.?
 

swathdiver

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Hello dear friends,
As I already wrote in the headline, my gearbox (Tahoe 2007 LTZ) is dripping directly at the connection between the gearbox housing and the engine block. What I could see in some videos is, that there is a seal behind the transmission converter. Can you tell me which provider is the best choice here, and which seals I have to change at the same time? Since I have to remove the transmission for that. Do I have to replace the converter also, or it is not necessary?

I also wanted to ask you who can tell me the best manufacturer for my Lower Front Ball Joints and Tie Rod End inner and what I look out for, when ordering from Rock Auto. Because these are knocked out and have to be changed.

Thank you guys for tips, links and support.

Markus from Germany
Use GM Original Equipment parts as your top quality with ACDelco Professional or Gold as second.
 

donjetman

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Hello dear friends,
As I already wrote in the headline, my gearbox (Tahoe 2007 LTZ) is dripping directly at the connection between the gearbox housing and the engine block. What I could see in some videos is, that there is a seal behind the transmission converter. Can you tell me which provider is the best choice here, and which seals I have to change at the same time? Since I have to remove the transmission for that. Do I have to replace the converter also, or it is not necessary?

Markus from Germany
Short answer = Dorman. I replaced the rear main seal, TC, etc, etc 3 yrs and 40k miles ago. Still dry as a bone.
Long answer = here the thread I did 3 yrs ago w/pics: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/
 

Geotrash

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Thanks @Geotrash for your answer. It is not Engine oil because, engine ist totally dry. It is a red oil and if you smell on it it is transmission fluid.
Thank you for your help. The bushing that I have to replace I think I have to remove the front cover and push the bushing out. Because otherwise you have no chance to replace the bushing.
Right.?
That's right. You will be fine just replacing the seal though, since that's your primary issue at the moment and a much easier job.
 
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DJPoertsch

DJPoertsch

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I assume you verified that it's transmission fluid and not engine oil, yes?

This one.

You may also want to replace the bushing in there.
Hello @Geotrash,

I have now checked the number on GM Parts Giant and it turned out that it is not the correct number for my Tahoe; the number GM 24202535 is given to me as the correct component. Have you possibly confused 2WD with 4WD here?
 

Geotrash

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Hello @Geotrash,

I have now checked the number on GM Parts Giant and it turned out that it is not the correct number for my Tahoe; the number GM 24202535 is given to me as the correct component. Have you possibly confused 2WD with 4WD here?
I didn't think to check 2WD vs 4WD, so whatever the GM parts site shows is the correct one for your truck is the one I would order. Also, as @iamdub and @donjetman suggest, I would also replace the rear main seal on the engine while you're in there.

On your suspension components question, most prefer either Moog or OEM parts. It's also much easier to do the job if you replace the entire control arm instead of just the ball joints. That way, you don't have to mess with pressing the ball joints out of the arms and can simply replace the entire assembly. You also get new bushings that way.
 
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DJPoertsch

DJPoertsch

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I spoke to the people at the German representation at Sonnax. I have a 4L60 transmission in my Tahoe! Therefore, the data from the parts above does not quite fit. We could find out now over my VIN Number. A question for you. The Service man was recommended to overhaul this gearbox with performance parts at my mileage of 208780ml would makes sense. Does that really make sense now? Because it would cost me €2900. A lot of money, but a titanium converter comes in, and the components are designed for high performance. What do you think about it?

Over the Vin Code : (M30) Transmission,AT 4-Х SPEED,4L60E,
 
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Geotrash

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I spoke to the people at the German representation at Sonnax. I have a 4L60 transmission in my Tahoe! Therefore, the data from the parts above does not quite fit. We could find out now over my VIN Number. A question for you. The Service man was recommended to overhaul this gearbox with performance parts at my mileage of 208780ml would makes sense. Does that really make sense now? Because it would cost me €2900. A lot of money, but a titanium converter comes in, and the components are designed for high performance. What do you think about it?

Over the Vin Code : (M30) Transmission,AT 4-Х SPEED,4L60E,
Oops. Forgot yours is a 4-speed - sorry. 209K is a long time on one of those - I had one in my '02 Suburban that went out at 130K. Since it's a fair amount of work to remove the transmission in the first place, doing an overhaul is a good investment if you plan to keep the truck for a while yet.
 

me51

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Leaking rear main seal is a classic on GM V8's, but I've had good success with Liqui Moly Öl-Verlust Stop in the engine.

The small bottle (330 ml) is suitable for up to 5 liters of engine oil, but the 5.3 takes ~5.7 liters (6 quarts) of oil. In that case they told me to replace up to 10% of the oil volume with the additive, so I got the 1000 ml bottle and added half of it together with ~5.2 liters of engine oil. It starts working after 800 km, after which you can clean the undercarriage and see if it stays clean afterwards. I used to smell a little bit of hot oil occasionally, but not anymore with the additive in it. For future oil changes adding the small bottle should be enough.

Mine is nowhere near 200k miles though.
 

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