Radio install, Now no crank, no door locks, no keyless

[wfburton159]

Another shot in the dark might be to disconnect the negative pole on the battery and leave it off for maybe 30 minutes. If the RAM got semi scrambled in one or more of the control modules, discharging everything fully might allow a reload from non-volatile memory and get things reset. Some guys touch both battery cables (off the battery) to assure complete discharge.

I will try this in about a 1/2 hour. Also to note when I reconnected the battery tonight earlier I had the doors closed. When I opened the driver door the dome lights turned on. I got so excited. But then like stated above the joy didn't last long. Edit. That was not long enough. I will try again in the morning.

 

[wfburton159]

This morning I reconnected the battery and everything worked. Tested the keyless entry and windows. Same thing though after 30 seconds or so the warning lights came on and gauges quit and door locks and windows quit. So what is the test? Now I still have the aftermarket radio installed. I will now install the factory radio again and try that tonight.

 

[89Suburban]

Put everything back the way it was and see what happens from there.

 

[wsteele]

If it still is flaky after re-installing the OE radio, you may need a re-flash of your BCM (or maybe a new BCM). You might check the Tech 2 owners list in the General Discussion section.

 

[wfburton159]

If it still is flaky after re-installing the OE radio, you may need a re-flash of your BCM (or maybe a new BCM). You might check the Tech 2 owners list in the General Discussion section.

Nobody close to me in North Dakota

 

[wfburton159]

Well putting it back to the OEM radio did not work. But tonight I decided I was going to just try driving it around. So I was driving around for about two hours and never shut it off. It cut in and out quite a few times during that time. I feel like something in the steering column wiring is messed up. It first popped back on when turning the steering wheel. Then almost immediately shut down but when I really moved the steering wheel around it would get better. That astrostart wiring isn’t doing me any favors. I was getting fuel and was moving the wires around at the column and it came back on. The wheel has been making a funny noise lately so I feel that infinity coil deal could be to blame. But it would also be working and I wouldn’t move anything it would just be sitting at idle and drop in and out with nothing moving. I have been wanting to change to heated steering wheel and have a line on an entire used column. Another possibility I think it could be the main negative battery cable to the engine. The crimp right at the engine looks a little iffy and it does seem like when the charging sense goes on and off that it screws up judging by watching the voltage gauge. There was one point when only the voltage gauge went off or sweeped down to 9 volts and even the 12 volt jacks went off but the headlights stayed on perfectly and it was idling perfectly. What a mess this is.

 

[Brandon2489]

Did you happen to disconnect the battery before doing the work you did?

There was a recent thread with similar symptoms (security like issues) where someone was working on their power lift gate (or maybe their wiper motor) and didn't disconnect the battery. Somehow they took out their Body Control Module (I think it was the BCM), due to I think the internal grounding design of the BCM. You might search the Engine and Powertrain and the General Discussion section of these MY's and check it out.

Good luck.

That was me that posted the tsb about the BCM. Here is the pic from that thread.

 

[wfburton159]

That was me that posted the tsb about the BCM. Here is the pic from that thread.

Thanks for posting. I did not remove the negative battery cable. It very well could be the body control module. I am still in the process of trying to make sure that is what it is. With the issue coming and going I do feel better about it not being as delicate of a system as it first seemed. I was glad I got out and drove it for a few hours to try and figure out the issue. If you look on youtube there are countless videos with the exact same warning lights and almost all of them have a different resolution. One just popped up on my recommended videos today and the resolution on that one was a bad spark plug. The Astrostart wiring on this one looks horrible and I was getting kinda rough with the unit and likely moving wires around. I have wanted to upgrade this to heated wheel so I have found a used column. I will likely buy a new coil spring at some point because I think that is one of my issues as you can crank the wheel back and forth and the issues show themselves. Last night when I parked it everything is in working order. Found another video about the steering wheel position sensor at the bottom of the column near the floor. So many possibilities.

 

[Rocket Man]

I hate intermittent electrical issues, they’re the hardest to figure out. Wishing you the best. I’m sure you’ll figure it out. Make sure to update this when you do.

 

[Loud03denali]

Quickly skimmed through all this. Are you using an interface for the install or just tapping into the wiring?

 

[wfburton159]

Quickly skimmed through all this. Are you using an interface for the install or just tapping into the wiring?

Using an interface. Got busy with deer hunting opener in North Dakota. So I went to get a used (heated) complete steering column from a Denali and on the way there the radio had a message about incorrect parking brake wiring. Had a 50 minute drive one way. So almost the entire way there I had the issue with nothing working. Had to use my phone for a speedometer as all gauges were out and cruise control did not work. But then on the way home everything popped back on and worked besides two times it flashed out and back on. I was watching the on star lights in the mirror and they would be completely off when acting normal. The three on star lights would start to light up dimly and flicker. Then the truck would mess up with all the warning lights. Remember I have removed the link in the on star and pulled the fuse for it. When everything was working on the way back the Pioneer radio was stuck or frozen in backup camera mode. I had switched the reverse input from battery(default) to ground. It is now still frozen in reverse camera mode only. Music still plays and the entire truck is working fine after I cut the parking brake wire and the reverse input wire. Now that I am back I need to disconnect the battery again to reset the pioneer head unit. So either the parking brake wire or the reverse input wire were causing the issues because my wife drove the Yukon all weekend with no issues.

And I do have the PC5-GM31 interface for the wiring.

 

[wfburton159]

I hate intermittent electrical issues, they’re the hardest to figure out. Wishing you the best. I’m sure you’ll figure it out. Make sure to update this when you do.

I replied to another post in here as well but I think my issue was the parking brake connection or the reverse sense connection. Do you need to use one of the parking brake bypass harnesses with this vehicle?

 

[Rocket Man]

I replied to another post in here as well but I think my issue was the parking brake connection or the reverse sense connection. Do you need to use one of the parking brake bypass harnesses with this vehicle?

If the stereo has a DVD player, the PAC interface or whatever you’re using does usually tie into the parking brake since you’re not supposed to be able to watch while you’re driving, you are supposed to set the brake first before it will play. And of course the backup lights are tied to the rear view camera to trigger it.

 

[wfburton159]

Well it appears my issues are gone. It must have come from me just grounding the parking brake wire between the radio and the interface. It was just a setting to get the rear camera view to disappear. I still have the rear camera input disconnected so I will test the wire out of the interface before re-connecting that. When it was working I have the camera display in the mirror as well as the radio. Now on to the heated Denali steering wheel. Got all the donor parts from the Denali prepped last night.

 

[wfburton159]

Well good news. The vintage Pioneer radio has a hidden built in override bypass for the DVD player so I can leave the parking brake wire disconnected. So maybe tonight I will tackle the heated steering wheel.

 

[wfburton159]

I can't seem to win with this thing. The used heated Denali wheel is on but the heated wheel doesn't work. Sometimes the light on the button flashes when pressed. It ohms out so maybe clockspring? The airbag wires were ripped off of the used clockspring so I cut them off my non heated wheel clockspring and soldered them back on. Now I have an airbag light. I will start with a new clockspring from a Denali. Even without the heat working this new wheel does look pretty nice with the woodgrain. Doesn't exactly match the SLT wood on the dash but its close enough. I am using my original airbag.

 

[wfburton159]

Still having no crank issues. When it goes into this no crank issue the following does not work; drivers windows, door locks, rear lift gate (rear pop window does work), radio does not power on (accesory pulse) but the radio does keep 12 volt constant power, keyless entry, panic button, remote start, dome light operation for front doors only. Dome light still functions on the back doors. What am I missing? Worked fine for a week. When it does start it operates all normal. After sitting with the battery connected it will return to a start and everything working order condition.

 

[wfburton159]

Everything is now working again on the vehicle. I ended up replacing the battery with a new one and now I do not have issues. So I think a bad battery was the problem.

 

[Rocket Man]

Yep the battery is pretty important. Sometimes it’s the basics. Glad it’s fixed.