The sway bar bushing bolts have a reduced head, and I had to hammer a 3/8ths on to it after it stripped out to get the old bushings off. All of the parts stores and ace had bolts that were the same thread but a way bigger head. These Moog sway bar bushings have a different style bracket, so I probably could have used the other ones.
I had to cut out the upper control arm bolts. Because they were seized big time. I could only get one of them pounded out, and it was after a lot of pounding, then waiting until the next day to pound some more.
@89Suburban @Alex_M I have been through so many blades. The wife's brother brought me these "torch" blades and I don't know if they cut any better than the cheap ones I had. The bolt cuts fine, but on the one side there isn't really a gap and I have to cut through the bushing. This last one is giving me a hard time still. I used the grinder to get one, but I really don't wanna hit my brake line. I bought whole control arms because I figured it would be easier than pressing out/in ball joints...
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
As others have said, the PS one just sees compression (even in reverse!). Reverse is different. While the motor is torquing the same way, the driveshaft is torquing the other direction. I'm confident only because.. I recently saw a video of motor mount testing, in both forward and reverse. :p...
