Walchit's 2000 XL

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Walchit

Walchit

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Tore the back doors apart and cleaned the door lock rods and little plastic guides, then sprayed some white lithium grease on them. Now they both unlock when I hit the fob or the unlock switch.

The front driver's door didn't go as well, and I'm pretty sure my actuator is going out.

Still on the fence about wether to put these Moog parts on or just trying to sell it. I guess we will see what this motor medic flush does.

I need to replace the abs wire on the front passenger side. It looks like it's been cut, so idk if it was an accident, or if they cut it because it was causing some other kind of problem.
 

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Walchit

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Started cleaning the seats yesterday, interior code is 922, I need to order some dye and try to fix the driver's seat.
You can see how dirty they are, I used a toothbrush to clean most of it...
 

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Tonyrodz

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To clean all the dirt out there's actually a toilet bowl cleaner that works amazing at getting all the dirt out. I forget what it's called now-- @Rocket Man? Once it's used you'll need to use leather conditioner.
 
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Walchit

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The stuff I'm using seems like carpet cleaner, it's tuff stuff multipurpose cleaner. Seems to work pretty good.

I got tired of this lumbar thing jabbing me, and my wife had the roll of duct tape out so I had to try something different. Stuffed in some foam and glued in an upside down piece of vinyl, then glued a piece of vinyl to the center and trimmed around to fit the hole. If it holds up then I will do the bottom of the seat and get the colormatch dye.
 

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Walchit

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Rest of the pics
 

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Walchit

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I didn't look, but my buddy said they were expensive. If I have brand new seats I will probably be a butthead to the kids when they spill something too, lol. Or just ban food and drinks, and I don't really want to do that.
 
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Walchit

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Was hoping to find a decent junkyard seat or something at some point
 
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Definitely out of my price range, I need that HD hood and tow mirrors, lol
 

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Walchit

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I grabbed an exhaust clamp off of Amazon for 16 bucks today. AutoZone wanted 43 for the same one lol. Went ahead and grabbed my buddy one too, hopefully it works on his headers.
 
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Walchit

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Took my Ford 500 to advanced auto and had them run my codes, switched in 2 spark plugs and coil things on from my parts car and it runs like a champ again. So I took the xl up there, had to buy fuses so the scan tool would connect and got a P0440, Which is vacuum or loose gas cap I guess. Was kinda hoping it was gonna be the oil pressure sending unit.

Exhaust clamp showed up, took me about ten minutes to get the top bolt in, then about 20 mins to decide the bottom one was gonna have to go in first. Had to have my wife fish it out from under the truck about 30 times, then asked God for some divine intervention. Finally got the bolt started immediately after that. Then after I got it tight, I had to loosen it a little to get it to swing up so I could get the top bolt in. Then got it all tightened down and I still have a slight leak, it's not as bad though for sure. Gonna toss my buddy's on his Tahoe in the morning, it's a front driver's side one, so it should go a lot smoother.
 

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Walchit

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My buddy's Tahoe needs 3 more clamps, lol
 
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Getting the area behind my garage ready to start on this suspension. Figured I don't wanna be rushed to finish in a weekend if I use this shop or my buddy's garage. Been moving in a fresh layer of crushed concrete. Thinking about putting down some Portland cement or something to get it where I can roll the jack around at least, lol
 
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Walchit

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Got started on the rear today. Got the rear control arms and shock back in on the driver's side. Got the sway bar off, but the broken bolt seems to have already had someone drilling on it. But, they missed pretty much completely, and there is a hole next to the broken bolt, lol. One on the other side had a nut and bolt, so I think they must have gave up on the second one, idk.

I need to watch some YouTube videos or something. I've always gave up or asked for help on broken bolts in the past. I'm gonna have to get the other side put together so I can jack it up higher too.
 

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Walchit

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Hopefully I will make some progress tomorrow.
 

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Walchit

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Had to cut out the upper control arm and spend 100 bucks on bolts. When I greased the bottom ball joint I found a tear in the boot. I don't think I did it, because I did notice it was kind of deformed and the box was pretty beat up. I wish I would have inspected it better before I put it on, because I really don't want to take it back apart. Idk how hard it is to just change the boot, but I definitely don't want to change the control arm or press the bj out.

I have the torsion bar out on the driver's side, and it just stopped raining, hopefully I can get something done today.

Oh and I grabbed this cluster for 50 bucks today...
 

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Tonyrodz

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Had to cut out the upper control arm and spend 100 bucks on bolts. When I greased the bottom ball joint I found a tear in the boot. I don't think I did it, because I did notice it was kind of deformed and the box was pretty beat up. I wish I would have inspected it better before I put it on, because I really don't want to take it back apart. Idk how hard it is to just change the boot, but I definitely don't want to change the control arm or press the bj out.

I have the torsion bar out on the driver's side, and it just stopped raining, hopefully I can get something done today.

Oh and I grabbed this cluster for 50 bucks today...
I didn't know you could just swap a boot out if the bj was still good.
 
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Walchit

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I know you can't order just a boot. Moog customer service told me it's fine with a hole in it and the grease will keep the water and dirt out, lol. Rock auto is weird about their warranty, it had a section that asked if it could be fixed by myself or a Mechanic. Then wanted to know a dollar amount that I wanted for fixing it. I just put the price of the control arm, then put another note that I just wanted a boot or a ball joint and not the whole arm. After doing all of this work I'm gonna have a hard time taking it to get an alignment with a hole in it, so maybe I will buy a ball joint and try to swap the boots, idk.

I got the wheels back on and she looks pretty level. The camber is on Baja status though, I'm gonna jack it up and loosen these UCAs and see if I can do some finagling. I really have no idea what I'm doing though, and caster seems like it's beyond my skill set.
 

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Walchit

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Guess I never updated this thread after I lost oil pressure and started knocking on my first long test drive. It rode really nice at 75-80 on the highway though, lol

Those of you in the what did you do to your 800 today thread, know about the 294k engine I grabbed from the junkyard to rebuild. ($518) It had a spun cam bearing and is at the machine shop now to see if it's worth putting back together.

I ordered a Truck Norris cam, new lifters and all of the seals and bearings (hopefully stock size is gonna work)

I have a couple questionable pistons, @iamdub you think I should just get flat tops? These are cheap enough, and I saw a review saying they updated the design. Can I use the floating wristpin thingies on my gen 3 rods?

Also,, with the Truck Norris cam the valves won't hit the top of the piston?

I will get more pics as I'm putting it back together, I need a cameraman, lol
 

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