In the video, it looks like the position sensor might be a separate piece next to it.
That's exactly what that is, the range position sensor. Maybe it's the brains and the motor is the brawn. In the older TCs they're integrated.
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In the video, it looks like the position sensor might be a separate piece next to it.
That is what I was thinking. The TCCM knows exactly what position it has the TC in as the sensor is keyed. Likely you just pop the motor in and the TCCM displays whatever position the TC is in on the switch. You change the position selection and the TCCM tells the motor how many steps to go right or left and has the sensor to know when it got there.That's exactly what that is, the range position sensor. Maybe it's the brains and the motor is the brawn. In the older TCs they're integrated.
You know, thinking about it, I wonder if the shop manual fragments James posted are for the right year? With the setup in the video, the resistance range test would be on the sensor and if not within that rheostats proper range, it would call out replacing the sensor, not the actuator (motor).Who knows, maybe some or all of the tests will get done when the motor is replaced. If I was going under there, I'd be curious and would do the tests before changing the motor out. It's just a couple of readings with a DVOM.
You know, thinking about it, I wonder if the shop manual fragments James posted are for the right year? With the setup in the video, the resistance range test would be on the sensor and if not within that rheostats proper range, it would call out replacing the sensor, not the actuator (motor).
Also, I think the OP better check RPO's before buying anything.
Was this on your '13?When I have changed a stuck actuator I just looked at where the new actuator was positioned and moved the shift shaft to match and installed it.
So basically, with this fault code, it is just checking that the coil in the lock solenoid is OK. If the lock solenoid is not bad, then it has to be the TCCM at that point.Except that the component test is on the motor/actuator lock circuit, not the range selection. The lock circuit keeps the motor from moving when not changing modes.
No, I admit it was on my NBS but The control system works on the same principal. Also used the same process on our Envoy.Was this on your '13?
It seems on the later models the motor and position sensor is separated. It looks like there isn’t any need to set the transfer case in a synchronized position between the motor and the TC, as the position sensor is not part of that pair. The TCCM knows what position the TC is in and only needs to tell the motor how far right or left it needs to go to select the commanded position.No, I admit it was on my NBS but The control system works on the same principal. Also used the same process on our Envoy.
I went and read the troubleshooting that was shared. Thats not too hard to do.
Thats good info. Thanks for sharing it. I may be just muddying the water here. Goi g to sit back and see what how this plays out.It seems on the later models the motor and position sensor is separated. It looks like there isn’t any need to set the transfer case in a synchronized position between the motor and the TC, as the position sensor is not part of that pair. The TCCM knows what position the TC is in and only needs to tell the motor how far right or left it needs to go to select the commanded position.
On my 2007, it is the same as your NBS with the motor and TC keyed to each other. It is interesting to dig into the subtle changes in model years. In my '07, I have the NP8 TC/motor (old style, which implies the push button style TC drivers control), but I have the modern NQH style rotary switch. I guess they handle the differences in the TCCM calibrations.
I am still stumped what the motor learn does.
Ha, you can't be muddying it any more than I already did, tracking on the old style TC motor install. It looks like the new style is a 10 minute job. Pop the old one out and install the new one. Done. I think... except for that pesky motor learn...Thats good info. Thanks for sharing it. I may be just muddying the water here. Goi g to sit back and see what how this plays out.
Ha, you can't be muddying it any more than I already did, tracking on the old style TC motor install. It looks like the new style is a 10 minute job. Pop the old one out and install the new one. Done. I think...![]()
Well, selfishly, it applies to me, which is largely why I am spending the time. I want to keep that beast a while. The more I know now, the less aggravation when something breaks, and I know it will.That's why you got the old style one.... so it would be a challenge.
And, yeah, we sure provided a lot of info that doesn't necessarily apply!
Just got a dealer quote of $660 to replace the actuator motor. Just hoping that's not a 'guess'.It is likely the transfer case actuator (tc motor) or the transfer case control module. Both require some work with the Tech 2 or other high end scan tool (like a Snap On) to complete the repair.
If you are near anyone listed in the Tech 2 owners sticky above, maybe reach out and see if they may be able to help with that side of things, then just do the diagnostics listed in @swathdiver’s post above.
if you still don’t know what to do, take it to a dealer, it will be a fairly expensive repair, like $500-$1200, depending on if it is the motor or the tccm.