Front hub assembly replacment difficulty?

[Doubeleive]

super easy job, once you have the brakes off the axle nut (if awd/4wd) and 3 more bolts, unplug the abs sensor. done
unless you live in some rust bucket the hub should come right out
if you have any problem breaking the axle nut loose with the brakes off just stick a bar in the hub studs and wedge it against the ground. leverage is your friend use a cheater bar.

 

[EddieC]

Yes, we live in a rust belt and it has affected everyone's vehicles.

 

[swathdiver]

I stand corrected, apparently my fingers weren't listening to my brain.

Don't sweat it. I think the old Montanas and most GM FWD vehicles used a 32mm socket. I have one in my drawer but can't remember why anymore! LOL

 

[swathdiver]

Yes, we live in a rust belt and it has affected everyone's vehicles.

PB Blaster is your friend then!

 

[EddieC]

So, GM vs Timken vs SKF for a hub?

 

[mrike]

I stand corrected, apparently my fingers weren't listening to my brain.

Get the hub from Autozone has a warranty and you can also rent the torque wrench and socket. Keep the cost to a minimum.

 

[mrike]

In swapping brakes I found slight in and out play in one of our 2008 Tahoe 4wd front hub assemblies. The opposite side had none so it seems that something is up.

The same hub was changed by a repair shop 16,000 miles ago and they charged a whopping $289 for the "superior" part. So much for old famlily friend. Unfortunately it was 3 years ago so I doubt that they will do anything about it now.

Looking on RockAuto (now) that part ranges from $140 to $180 depending on manufacturer, so I know I got a bad deal by the mechanic.

Is it a difficult job replacing the hub assembly? Any foul language skills required?

And if it's do-able by the average back yard mechanic, what brands are best? I think I heard Moog when I was handed the bill for the first one so that might not be worth a second chance.

Get the hub from Autozone has a warranty and you can also rent the torque wrench and socket. Keep the cost to a minimum.

 

[Bigshawn]

The worst part of doing these IMHO is if the machined outer collar of the hub is rusted/seized to the knuckle, it can be a real PITA to get off. I had to knock some studs out and use pusher bolts to try and pry mine off and it actually bent the hub flange. After a few hours of spraying penetrating lubricant, prying at it, heating up the knuckle, beating the living **** out of it, I finally got it off. I used never seize installing the new one.

That being said, the urban myth that these bearings won't come apart if you run without an axle shaft earned some merit.

Yep my passenger side hub was a pain. We went thru the same things you did and it wouldn't budge. It was goaded into the knuckle. We got 2 things of mapp gas out and put alot of heat to it and it finally came out but i messed up the knuckle beating on it. When I had to put the drivers side in then it was alot easier and was probably done in 30 mins. The salt here in PA just gets in everything and can turn something simple into a project.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Scale from 1-10?… I’d say a 2 super easy, just torque the fasteners to spec when reassembling and you’ll do just fine.

 

[Doubeleive]

So, GM vs Timken vs SKF for a hub?

both have made bearings for gm in the past so any of the 3 is fine, you may find if you order the gm one that it is made by timken or skf when looking at it closely they stamp them.

 

[89Suburban]

Yep my passenger side hub was a pain. We went thru the same things you did and it wouldn't budge. It was goaded into the knuckle. We got 2 things of mapp gas out and put alot of heat to it and it finally came out but i messed up the knuckle beating on it. When I had to put the drivers side in then it was alot easier and was probably done in 30 mins. The salt here in PA just gets in everything and can turn something simple into a project.

Hello neighbor!

 

[swathdiver]

Get the hub from Autozone has a warranty and you can also rent the torque wrench and socket. Keep the cost to a minimum.

Who makes it? What good is that or any parts warranty if you have to replace it every couple of years?

 

[Bigshawn]

Hello neighbor!

Hey where do you live, near Philly? I live right dead in the middle of the state and about 7 miles from the Mason Dixon line.

 

[bladenbullet]

I havent reviewed the entire thread so i dont know if it has been addressed...the oem part at rock auto may not be a factory part...it is a common misconception...

also...the aftermarket part installed previously may have had a lifetime warranty...you should check with the installer if they did not provide you with a receipt that shows the part description and number...

 

[89Suburban]

Hey where do you live, near Philly? I live right dead in the middle of the state and about 7 miles from the Mason Dixon line.

King of Prussia exit on the pike. Hope to move out your way or upstate some day. Sick of this rat race bullchit. This area really went to chit. Miss the mountains and lonely roads to get lost on.

 

[Bigshawn]

Aww man your definitely in a busy area. Yeah we would ride around at night drinking when we were younger and rarely pass anyone. When Whitetail ski resort opened that's when it started to slowly change.

 

[EddieC]

In replacing the hub on a 4wd, what kind of lube should be put on the axle splines?
Also, the A1 video shows slobbering the outside of the hub where it fits in the bracket with grease but that isn't making sense unless it's just used as an anti-seize compound. Am I messing something?

 

[Charlie207]

Having replaced at lease six hub bearing units in my last rig (Nissan Armada w/IFS & IRS) I would remove any/all surface rust/corrosion at the mating surface of the knuckles where the new hub sits, because it makes installation that much easier.

Rust/corrosion causes expansion, and you'd be surprised by how much of a nightmare it is to fit something that has a .0001" concentric ring less to work with.

Add all the anti-seize in the world, because the next guy to work on your truck is likely to be you.

FYI, buy Timken once, or the other stuff again.

 

[EddieC]

Wow, I have to say that there was a lot of fretting over nothing. Chevy did a great job building the '08 Tahoe as the axle spline was well greased as was the bracket surface where the hub sits in. The hub popped right out with 4 wacks with a 3 pound hammer. The grease was actually still yellow. There was just the slightest bit of rust behind the contact points.
Since the oem lasted 97,000 miles I put in another of the same.
Thanks for all the encouragement.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Don’t be afraid to try. Best case you save a bunch of money, worst case you pay someone to fix it… just stop when **** goes south so you don’t make things worse.