FishinGuns’ 2500 Suburban FUV Thread

[FishinGuns]

(Fishing Utility Vehicle)
Bought the Federale’ Comms vehicle back in Feb. 45,000 miles. 2012. Paid a premium, but 1/2 the cost of a new HD and I sold my ‘11 1500 Silverado for the current market premium.

Being it was February, didn’t figure out the main AC control module was 1/2 shot till it got hot this summer‍. Dash cracked on my way home from Chitcago with it (CMI purchase). One quick internet search I got that figured out… greeeaaat… Who doesn’t like surprises? Got 15.7mpg doing 80-90+ though! I’ll take it.

 

[FishinGuns]

First thing was get the fluids changed. Pretty much didn’t need it, which I expected being a US Federal Government vehicle, but I swapped it all out anyway for my own piece of mind. Next was get the exterior lined, rustproofed, and undercoated. Have a great guy here in MI, MJR Bullet Liner and Custom Coatings, get her ready for the long haul. He does Bullet Liner and Krown, so one stop shop for me! I have him reapply the Krown annually. My dad and I have had him do 7 vehicles between us now. Just top notch all the way around. I was recently gifted my Grandpa’s 2000 Cherokee XJ and it’s completely lined and Krowned. The previous Silverado was the first of the 7 to be lined and Krowned. That’s how I found him…

Swapped out the bulbs in the OEM headlights. More Betters. I previously did the same thing on my 2011 Silverado. Philips H9 and 9011 conversions, and re-aim. I don’t do LEDs due to our cold weather with snow and slush. My Silverado headlight units were better/cleaner light spread, these OEM’s throw the same amount of light, but there are reflector lines everywhere. Can’t win’em all, I guess.

 

[FishinGuns]

The dash. Jeebus. I bought a fit over and was going to be fine with it, till I found two other cracks in uncovered areas. Needed to get the passenger front air bag replaced and bit the friggen bullet and had them replace the whole dash while they were in there. The new dash is actually beefed up a little compared to the original. We’ll see if that was a waste of money, though…

Added OEM tows. I like them better backing the boat up. The turn signal indicator works, which surprised me since my factory 1/2 ton sized side view mirrors didn’t have that option.

My driver door interior panel handle was jacked-up and coming apart. Didn’t realize it’s a whole new panel to fix the handle. GM, you’re on a roll!! I replaced that at the same time as the mirrors. Also swapped in new Infinity Kappas in the front and rear doors. Those livened up the tunes nicely! I plan to put a new head unit in and wire a reverse camera in the future, after I get more important things done first, and make some more money…

 

[FishinGuns]

The squeaky center console lid. I tinker a bit, if you haven’t noticed. McMaster Carr is next day delivery here in Metro Detroit. Stainless plastic self tapping screws (3/4” no. 8), black nylon finish washers, and rubber cushioning washers. No more movement. No more squeak. Still latches. That was easy!

 

[FishinGuns]

Getting to the good stuff:

She’s now sporting a Skyjacker 3” front 2” rear lift, Fox 2.0 RR’s w/CD Adj. from Accutune. Kryptonite Steering and upper & lower Beejers. Bilstein steering stabilizer since there wasn’t a Fox 2.0. 255/80R17 Toyo Open Country ATIII’s, including full size spare on an OEM alloy rim. H2 wheels powder coated bright silver sparkle w/Chev center caps (MI winters…).

The lift install was full of little issues. Too long of bolts, not enough washers, was missing a trans crossmember drop bracket… I’m pretty lucky like that, usually. One 1/2 major issue was figuring out what’s different between the Suburban suspension and a truck suspension It’s all the same, except the torsion key crossmember and how it’s attached to the frame. The Suburban’s is suspended from the top of the frame via a drop link on both ends of the crossmember. This allows a little articulation, IMO, for better ride compared to the trucks that are solidly riveted to the lower frame with zero articulation. Took us some head scratching to figure out why my torsion key crossmember didn’t line up at all with the new brackets we just drilled holes for, kinda off the cuff, since my lift instructions were for a truck. Some part number comparisons, $80 later, and I had a new OEM 01-10 HD torsion key crossmember that lined up as it should, delivered the next day.

 

[FishinGuns]

The Skyjacker lift (C938K) is a bit of an outlier due to modest lift compared to the premium price. I’ll tell you right now, I couldn’t be happier. My ball joint angles are great. My CV shafts are nearly flat. The Kryptonite steering system is nearly flat. I did the SS center link, tie rods, idler and support bracket, pitman arm, Bilstein steering stabilizer, and Kryptonite upper and lower ball joints. Pretty much a whole new front end. AND it didn’t increase my front track width or decrease my turning radius while allowing me to run OEM backspaced wheels. I’m a sucker for the no increased track width and GM wheels! Will be ordering BORA spacers for the rear because I’m vain like that.

Back to the Skyjacker lift. Yeah, I lose clearance with the drop brackets, but it ain’t like the rear 14 Bolt FF has much anyway. This is my hauler that does forest service roads and two tracks on occasion, but I really lifted it to clear 33’s while riding superbly for a 3/4 ton (It currently rides like an unmodified 1500, IMO). Basically to get me through any snow the Lower Peninsula can throw at me when I’m steelhead fishing in the winter. This truck, set-up like this, will accomplish that in spades

 

[FishinGuns]

Had to flippen trim even at 3” in the front, 255/80R17, and modestly backspaced H2 wheels (8.5” wide +18 BS) Did a small NorCal mod and used my little Hackzall to trim the front bumper supports. Easy peasy, no more rubby rubby. Did my front air dam while I was at it since the clips hang down too far to leave it off, like I did on my Silverado. Trimmed up my Husky front mud flaps since I was in there and I’m old fogey for liking them, ha ha!

Was already dirty and installed my Airlift bags in the rear, too. Pretty easy. Had to drill 8 holes. I’m pretty anti Cali-lean, I prefer the dreaded forward rake. Plus I aim my headlights to the hairy edge for max deer spotting vision at night, so any squat would put my lights in people’s eyes, which isn’t cool. This alleviates that, plus the bit of porpoising and body roll loaded down and the boat hooked up. I like’em!

 

[FishinGuns]

Oh yeah, bought OEM fobs with remote start and had a stealership program them. Base LS trim with remote start, baby! Waiting on ARH headers (which is turning into a fiasco, currently…) then will Blackbear tune. Will do 4.10’s F&R and an ARB up front for pulling my river boat out in slick conditions Up North, in a bit, also.

Really happy with how it’s turned out thus far! My plan is at least 300,000, hopefully 400,000+, miles.

I’ll keep updating as I go from here.

 

[Sparksalot]

What is the exterior finish you had put on?

 

[swathdiver]

Nice work! On the dash, the section that cracked near the airbag, I have seen guys leave the bolt under there a little loose.

Truck looks great. Don't know which year it is, the 2500 wagons kept the older suspension when they updated it for the pick em ups in 2011 if memory serves. The lug spacing is different too.

The 2007-2009 door panels have a smaller handle that doesn't break like the 2010+. However, folks on here have modified and repaired them and posted how tos on here.

Going to put a locker up front? They don't make them for the 1500s as the cases are too weak for them.

 

[FishinGuns]

What is the exterior finish you had put on?

IGL Coatings, their 7 year ceramic coating. I had that professionally done by Precision Auto in Novi, MI. Local for me. He did a great job! He did the paint correction work as well.

I barely have to wash it at the coin-op. It’s like the whole vehicle is Rain-X’ed.

 

[FishinGuns]

Nice work! On the dash, the section that cracked near the airbag, I have seen guys leave the bolt under there a little loose.

Truck looks great. Don't know which year it is, the 2500 wagons kept the older suspension when they updated it for the pick em ups in 2011 if memory serves. The lug spacing is different too.

The 2007-2009 door panels have a smaller handle that doesn't break like the 2010+. However, folks on here have modified and repaired them and posted how tos on here.

Going to put a locker up front? They don't make them for the 1500s as the cases are too weak for them.

Good note on the dash, I’ll look into that.

it’s a 2012. I’ll edit my first post. Doh! So yeah, the 11-13 2500 Suburban suspension and lug pattern is the 01-10 truck suspension and bolt pattern for sure, except the torsion bar/key crossmember I detailed above. I almost tried keeping it in the same location, but I wasn’t sure how much the extra angle on the torsion bars would affect everything. If I already had a lift in my barn, I’d try it myself. I had favor from a local shop to use the back corner bay to put the lift on, so I needed to move it out as soon as possible.

The 2007-2009 door panels are great info! I was going to repair mine at first, but decided I try a new panel first and see how it goes for me. I tend not to beat on my stuff terribly, lol!

These 2500 Suburbans all the way to 2013 have the older cast aluminum GM/AAM 9.25” IFS front diff. More good for me than bad. The only bad is the new 2011+ diff is cast iron and has a normal front cover (bad for me because that’s better than what I have), except there’s not traction aids available for it. The older style cast aluminum clamshell diff I have is going to cost me to have the work done (not easy to work on like my 14 bolt FF rear…), but I can put an ARB Air Locker in it, at least! I know I’ll need to use it sparingly and judiciously, which is fine for me. I won’t be anything but basically light over landing as far as offroad goes, but my main reason is slick, snowy, icy, minimally plowed boat ramps. I swap to a jet pump on my boat from September to April (and soon to be occasionally back to the prop to duck hunt divers) and run rivers in that rig. What I really wanted was Eaton TruTracs front and rear like I’m doing to my Cherokee, but I can’t find enough info on putting a TruTrac in the 9.25” to take that chance. I’ll be taking her to gear shops as soon as I get my full exhaust done headers to tip and then BB tuned. I kinda want to see how the 3.73’s are with that performance stuff completed before I commit to a gear swap.

I saw the new ZR2 1500 Silverado coming (2022, I think?) will have e-lockers front and rear. So hopefully an option for the half ton guys in the future. Gotta be a new diff, I’m guessing. Wouldn’t it be sweet to get a ZR2 Tahoe or Suburban with that 3.0 in-line diesel with front and rear lockers, maybe 275/65R20’s? A man can dream!!

 

[Bill 1960]

Very nice. I am envious of the front diff as that’s the weak point in the 1500, as I’m sure you know. I was on the fence between wanting the short wheelbase and wanting 8 lugs.

 

[FishinGuns]

I mean, it’s still no solid front axle by any means, but yeah, it is significantly stronger and has a couple options for traction aids compared to the 1500’s.

 

[swathdiver]

Good note on the dash, I’ll look into that.

it’s a 2012. I’ll edit my first post. Doh! So yeah, the 11-13 2500 Suburban suspension and lug pattern is the 01-10 truck suspension and bolt pattern for sure, except the torsion bar/key crossmember I detailed above. I almost tried keeping it in the same location, but I wasn’t sure how much the extra angle on the torsion bars would affect everything. If I already had a lift in my barn, I’d try it myself. I had favor from a local shop to use the back corner bay to put the lift on, so I needed to move it out as soon as possible.

The 2007-2009 door panels are great info! I was going to repair mine at first, but decided I try a new panel first and see how it goes for me. I tend not to beat on my stuff terribly, lol!

These 2500 Suburbans all the way to 2013 have the older cast aluminum GM/AAM 9.25” IFS front diff. More good for me than bad. The only bad is the new 2011+ diff is cast iron and has a normal front cover, except there’s not traction aids available for it. The older style cast aluminum clamshell diff I have is going to cost me to have the work done, but I can put an ARB Air Locker in it at least! I know I’ll need to use it sparingly and judiciously, which is fine for me. I won’t be anything but light over landing as far as offroad goes, but the main reason is slick, snowy, icy, minimally plowed boat ramps. I swap to a jet pump on my boat from September to April (and soon to be occasionally back to the prop to duck hunt divers) and run rivers in that rig. What I really wanted was Eaton TruTracs front and rear like I’m doing to my Cherokee, but I can’t find enough info on putting a TruTrac in the 9.25” to take that chance. I’ll be taking to gear shops as soon as I get my full exhaust done headers to tip and the Suburban tuned. I kinda want to see how the 3.73’s are with that performance stuff completed before I commit to a gear swap.

I saw the new ZR2 1500 Silverado coming (2022, I think?) will have e-lockers front and rear. So hopefully an option for the half ton guys in the future. Gotta be a new diff, I’m guessing. Wouldn’t it be sweet to get a ZR2 Tahoe or Suburban with that 3.0 in-line diesel with front and rear lockers, maybe 275/65R20’s? A man can dream!!

Aren't all of them running the same suspension from 2007 to 2010 too?

Randeez on here put one of those new front differentials in his 1500 Denali race truck.

Yes, a diesel with lockers and 34s and the Jeeps on the trails out west would be envious!

Fun stuff!

 

[FishinGuns]

Aren't all of them running the same suspension from 2007 to 2010 too?

Aren't all of them running the same suspension from 2007 to 2010 too?

Randeez on here put one of those new front differentials in his 1500 Denali race truck.

Yes, a diesel with lockers and 34s and the Jeeps on the trails out west would be envious!

Fun stuff!

Yeah, sorry I wasn’t clear. The 2500 Suburban’s from 07-13 are the 01-10 truck suspensions except for the torsion bar crossmember and how it’s mounted to the frame.

 

[FishinGuns]

ARH long tubes finally showed up. Got a set for the XJ as well. Not sure why I thought the O2 sensor extensions came with the kit, but whatever. If anyone has suggestions, I’m all ears for those. * Update, might not need extensions. We’ll see how she shakes out…

Im going to start talking to shops for custom building me a cat-back. There are zero that I have been able to find for 2500 Suburbans and I’m pretty sure they are different than trucks all together, frame-wise from the torsion bar crossmember back, basically. Not many shops do mandrel bend tubing either, even in Metro Detroit. Kinda odd. Regardless, she’ll get 3” mandrel bent tubing, single exit, likely a 24” Borla round muffler (maybe two shorter round ones?), resonators to my taste. I had a Corsa Sport cat-back on my previous 1500 5.3L and it was prefect tone, loud when you got on it, and no drone cruising. Aiming for as close to that as possible.

 

[mikeyss]

ARH long tubes finally showed up. Got a set for the XJ as well. Not sure why I thought the O2 sensor extensions came with the kit, but whatever. If anyone has suggestions, I’m all ears for those. * Update, might not need extensions. We’ll see how she shakes out…

Im going to start talking to shops for custom building me a cat-back. There are zero that I have been able to find for 2500 Suburbans and I’m pretty sure they are different than trucks all together, frame-wise from the torsion bar crossmember back, basically. Not many shops do mandrel bend tubing either, even in Metro Detroit. Kinda odd. Regardless, she’ll get 3” mandrel bent tubing, single exit, likely a 24” Borla round muffler (maybe two shorter round ones?), resonators to my taste. I had a Corsa Sport cat-back on my previous 1500 5.3L and it was prefect tone, loud when you got on it, and no drone cruising. Aiming for as close to that as possible.

I have the same headers, ARH 1 7/8" with their cats, and the o2 sensors plug in perfectly with no need for wire extensions.

 

[FishinGuns]

Awesome!!! Thanks for confirming. I went 1-3/4” on mine. Your engine build is sick, btw!