What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Dantheman1540]

Lower ball joints are being a pain to remove. Hammer didn't work. Heat didn't work. Pickle Forks didn't work. Now using a ball joint separator from Harbor Freight. Worked fine on a stuck upper ball joint but we have been grinding away on the tool to make it fit the lower ball joint and ran out of time. The girls are busy with their social schedules you know!

So at this point the struts and half shafts are out, calipers hanging on S-hooks and the engine oil cooler lines are disconnected but not removed. The front differential has been lowered but I think we're doing to pull it tomorrow to make more room. The front bumper cover and lights are off, we found the leak that the dealer said was not there, the lower connection on the condenser is leaking green oil everywhere. Bought an AC O-Ring and Seal kit from O'Reilly and had them refund me the condenser I ordered.

Bought a canopy from Harbor Freight and have that over the hood area in case it rains, all exposed connectors are pointed down too. Canopy secured on three corners with old brake rotors.

I forget to check and did not know that the lower control arm bolts and nuts are 15/16ths. 23mm too small, 24mm a little loose. Hopefully they'll come off tomorrow.

Still haven't gotten to the motor mounts or transmission oil cooler lines. Sure wish I was in my twenties again, all of this stuff would have been done already! The Good Lord is giving me patience but I keep wanting more.

Dang really getting after it! Glad to hear your able to beat things with hammers again!

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Ordered my BBP Autocal V3.

 

[trailblazer]

As soon as I’m done with crawling underneath this thing on a regular basis, I’ll be hosing down the underside with sheep dip (Fluid Film). I don’t want corrosion to get a foothold. I’ve been a long time user of FF with great results. However that doesn’t stop me from assessing other products. Last year I tried out some WoolWax, which is close to FF but goes on thicker. This project I’m going to try a Cosmoline product in some of the areas exposed to spray from the tires and see how it holds up. Literature indicates it will harden to a waxy consistency. FF never hardens and does get washed away from areas exposed to a lot of spray.

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CRC Marine HD Corrosion Inhibitor is referred to as the preferred solution in many comparison tests. Can be had for about nine bucks a can if you buy it by the case. Stuff goes on as a thick liquid but dries hard.
I’d do this work in the summer when it is warm (regardless of what flavour you choose) as it will flow better. A one gallon bucket of Fluid Film is about $35.

 

[Rocket Man]

Mmm... cowl hood. Do want.

Of course, if you have a cowl hood, it’s mandatory that there be a supercharger underneath said cowl.

You’re welcome.

Agreed 100%.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Replaced the drivers side motor mount with the H3 mount yesterday afternoon.

Pulled front up on ramps so I could get underneath. Also pulled front splash shield in case I needed it out of the way to access the steering knuckle bolt, but actually didn't need to remove it.

I locked the steering wheel and removed the steering knuckle at the top bolt and bolt below the boot going into the rack. It slipped off easily.

The 3 frame bolts are easy to get to and remove.

No way to get to the block bolts from underneath, so everything was done from the top.

The OE mount heat shield is a ***** to work around and after messing with trying to get the socket to stay in the bolt heads for a half hour I cut the sides off with aviation snips. Made it much easier to get to the bolt heads.

The block bolts closer to the firewall were still hard to reach unless you stand on a stool and lay across the top of the engine bay. My chest and stomach feels bruised, lol.

I have a shop crane/engine hoist, but didn't feel like getting it out and figuring out a place to hook it to on the motor, so just used a jack underneath to lift on the drivers side exhaust at the cat converter. Worked well.

The new mount took half the time to put in and bolt up.

All in all, took about 3 hours, but that included beer breaks and playing catch with the dog. Also spent a lot if time trying to figure out how best to access the block bolts, from below, through wheel well, etc.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Doug118]

 

[Tonyrodz]

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That's gonna be alot of work.

 

[Sam Harris]

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Wth...? New lid..?

 

[Rocket Man]

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Why do you need this?

 

[Sparksalot]

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Convertible Hoe!

 

[08z71bgm]

Why do you need this?

Maybe does not want a sunroof? Damage repair?

 

[Doug118]

Maybe does not want a sunroof? Damage repair?

Exactly. Getting rid of the sunroof the proper way after multiple failed attempts using other methods

 

[pwtr02ss]

Exactly. Getting rid of the sunroof the proper way after multiple failed attempts using other methods

sounds like time to just buy another tahoe lol

 

[pwtr02ss]

What did I do today. Well, checked pushrod spec. Was barely over .040 preload, in the center portion

So, the new 7.425 pushrods I had ordered, got it just to the bottom of the spec. Good news, they are 90% quiet through all rpm range. Bad news, should've ordered 7.450 and they would've been perfect. I'll see how long I can tolerate the slight noise

Basically, the BTR cam I put in it isn't consistent throughout. The 4 outside corners are perfect, the middles are right at the bottom. Long story short, when buying a cheap cam, check every single one

 

[Sparksalot]

Changed the rear shocks on thecopcar. Not hard, but contortions were required. Dunno if the consumer Hoes are that way or not but the rear sway bar ends are in the way of the lower bolts. Had to jack up the frame to unload the suspension so the bolt could clear. Tires stayed firmly on the ground.

 

[08z71bgm]

What did I do today. Well, checked pushrod spec. Was barely over .040 preload, in the center portion

So, the new 7.425 pushrods I had ordered, got it just to the bottom of the spec. Good news, they are 90% quiet through all rpm range. Bad news, should've ordered 7.450 and they would've been perfect. I'll see how long I can tolerate the slight noise

Basically, the BTR cam I put in it isn't consistent throughout. The 4 outside corners are perfect, the middles are right at the bottom. Long story short, when buying a cheap cam, check every single one

I bet you can tolerate it pretty well from inside the cabin. You make it sound like you are running solid lifters on a high solid roller cam with a lash at like .030-.036 lash.

 

[Doug118]

sounds like time to just buy another tahoe lol

sounds likes someone is afraid to put in a little effort

 

[lowh07]

Cleaned/re-oiled air filter, removed that rear engine bay gasket previously mentioned (took 3 seconds/seems like it would help a little with keeping things cooler, idk), and went to town with a dremel on my center console lid.... proof of concept but I kinda dig it. Needs a new cover and some support on both sides. There’s about 1.5” of gap on each side so it rocks side to side currently. Could sew in some black fabric or vinyl to cover the top of the tank

 

[Just Fishing]

Exactly. Getting rid of the sunroof the proper way after multiple failed attempts using other methods

guessing you'll need to do some bracing when cutting off the top?
Or just for fill panel?

what's wrong with the sunroof, just a pos?

 

[pwtr02ss]

sounds likes someone is afraid to put in a little effort

my middle name is "not put a little effort in"